はじめに
右側スピーカーを交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください
必要な工具と部品
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この手順で使用する道具:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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底ケースと上部ケースを留めている次のネジを10本外します。
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2.3 mm P5ペンタロープネジー2本
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3.0 mm P5 ペンタロープネジー8本
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この作業中、外した各ネジの管理を安全に行ってください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスのダメージを防ぐため、正しい位置に装着してください。
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バッテリーボードに装着されているプラスチックカバーを外します。
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ピンセットを使って、バッテリーコネクターボードの右側底付近にある小さいプラスチックカバーを取り出します。
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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ピンセットでインターポーザーを掴みます。
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インターポーザーをロジックボードから引き上げて外します。
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードデータケーブルコネクターの右側を出入力ボード上のソケットから引き上げます。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードデータケーブルコネクターの左側底に差し込みます。
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丁寧にスパッジャーを曲げて、ロジックボード上のソケットから出入力ボードケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..
Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、SSDケーブルコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから引き上げます。
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SSDケーブルコネクターを作業の邪魔にならない位置に動かします。
As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.
This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.
I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.
Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!
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スパッジャーの鋭利側先端をスピーカーケーブルコネクターの右側下に差し込みます。
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右側スピーカーケーブルのコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから丁寧に引き上げます。
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T5トルクスドライバーを使って、上部ケースに右側スピーカーを固定している次のネジを外します。
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黒 6.8 mmネジー1本
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シルバー 6.3 mmネジー1本
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黒 4.89mmネジー1本
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
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上部ケースから右側のスピーカーを引き上げて取り出します。
For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
33 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›
5 件のコメント
Thanks for the steps, it worked. But now I am getting Wi-Fi- No hardware installed and Bluetooth Not available error
it worked but the cam is not working now :(
I was able to fix the right speaker using the solvent used to remove the battery provided by iFixit.
Thank you very much for the walkthrough. No problems to follow at all. Everything worked as a charm.
timofej.se - 返信
Thanks very much for the walkthrough. No problems at all. Everything working fine afterwards.
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - 返信
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - 返信
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - 返信