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MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
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    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 返信

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 返信

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 返信

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 返信

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman - 返信

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 - 返信

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 返信

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya - 返信

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis - 返信

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 5、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 5、 2の画像 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 返信

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 返信

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 返信

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 返信

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu - 返信

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO - 返信

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem - 返信

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis - 返信

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark - 返信

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Right Speaker: 手順 7、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Right Speaker: 手順 7、 2の画像 2
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - 返信

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - 返信

    Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).

    Catalin Dumitru - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    This was a great tip - I just moved the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them, which made things easy to deal with. Thank you.

    A B -

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - 返信

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - 返信

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Thank you - this tip saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    A B -

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - 返信

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - 返信

    Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.

    Steven Cutchen - 返信

    This step should be skipped.I pulled it all off, hard to pull one off alone.

    You can skip step 10,11 go to 12, and fold it over. Same as left.

    Then go to step 17.

    yong jack - 返信

    This should NOT be done. Shame on iFixit! Its easy to rip the socket off the board if the connector holding too tight. I had to resolder the socket onto the traces of the board.

    Paul Lebow - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - 返信

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 13、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 13、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 13、 3の画像 3
    • Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - 返信

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - 返信

    Hi everyone.

    I have a problem with the right speaker of my macbook pro early 2015.

    The sound has a strange vibration and it is impossible to hear the audio properly except with headphones.

    I disassembled the macbook and extracted the speakers to check their condition but they are both perfect.

    I wanted to ask all of you who have replaced speakers what condition you found them in.

    Could the vibration be due to the deformation of the case due to the swelling of the battery? Is there another way to tell if the speaker actually needs to be replaced?

    Thank you all.

    Antonello Cicciu' - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Left Speaker: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Left Speaker: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 返信

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 返信

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - 返信

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson - 返信

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.

    David Obis - 返信

    Speakers aren't working now... perhaps because I connected and disconnected then while the battery was still on. Even headphones don't work... Hmm...

    justsome631 - 返信

    Its absolutely true, this is not neccessary. It works greate without removing the speakers

    Andreas Schmidt - 返信

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 15、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 返信

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 返信

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 返信

    Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!

    David Wamsley -

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - 返信

    Muchas gracias amigo, cambié las bocinas sin problema. :)

    Juan Antonio - 返信

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out around the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 返信

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 返信

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 返信

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 返信

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - 返信

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson - 返信

    For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery

    David Obis - 返信

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case Assembly: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • If your replacement part comes with trackpad, battery, or other components, don't remove them from your old device, simply skip those steps in this guide.

    • Be sure to read through the rest of the guide so you can be sure to transfer all of the necessary components.

    I wish this then said, “skip steps X, Y, and Z” for us newbies.

    Melissa Wallentine - 返信

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Trackpad Cable: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Trackpad Cable: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    If you also remove the other end of the mouse cable, remember to lower the lever when you reinsert it.

    Maximillian - 返信

    It is important to be really GENTLE with the trackpad cable.

    It is sometimes glued on very strong, and it is easy to damage it internally with no visible outer damage. In my case, I damaged just one line, and at first I didn't realize it.

    My TRACKPAD was working fine, but the Force Touch haptic Feedback wasn't working. I tried everything else, but eventually I replaced this ribbon cable with a cheap used one and that fixed it immediately.

    Flo - 返信

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • Lift the trackpad cable up off the battery to separate it from the adhesive securing it.

    • Be careful not to damage the cable. If it doesn't peel up easily, apply a little heat from an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again.

    • If you are installing a new trackpad cable, be sure to fold the new cable to match the shape of the old cable. The new cable will appear to be too long if it is not folded.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - 返信

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - 返信

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - 返信

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 20、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 20、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 20、 3の画像 3
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

    • Use the end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - 返信

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - 返信

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - 返信

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - 返信

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - 返信

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - 返信

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc - 返信

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.


    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt - 返信

    Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!

    Kelly Archer - 返信

    READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.

    Broke the ZIF connector :-(

    Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.

    houguy - 返信

    Zip connector flip broke - now I only have a connection in rare occasions. Has anyone an easy hack like gluing the thing in place ore something 🥲?

    Matthias S. - 返信

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 21、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 21、 2の画像 2
    • Pull the trackpad cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the trackpad control board.

    • During reassembly, make sure that the retaining tab is in the up, "unlocked" position before you insert the cable into the socket.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - 返信

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - 返信

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - 返信

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - 返信

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - 返信

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - 返信

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - 返信

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss - 返信

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve - 返信

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt - 返信

    Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?

    Jose Huerta -

    Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…

    Katrin Klug -

    I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit

    Cameron Wheatley -

    So during re-assembly, my cable is not going in all the way. I think is causing the haptic feedback on the trackpad to stop working. Does anyone have any solution to this?

    Vysak Sasikumar - 返信

    Success. I bought a replacement ribbon cable and followed ifixit instructions. The ribbon cable is too long as is stated. I worried that bending the cable would crimp it, causing the same malfunction as the original. What to do? I did bend it a little but the cable still had a bow in it. I decided to place a piece of plastic (guessing about 5 mm thick) under the cable which held the cable nicely to the right length, without crimping. Then taped to the battery. The computer back panel then screwed on with no issue and did not have a bulge such as to cause the computer to rock and layed flat on the bumper feet. The computer worked perfectly. Thank you “ifixit”

    ron bryanton - 返信

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 22、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery board to the upper case.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - 返信

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - 返信

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - 返信

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - 返信

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - 返信

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, iOpener Heating: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, iOpener Heating: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 返信

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 返信

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 返信

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 返信

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 返信

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 返信

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 返信

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 返信

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - 返信

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - 返信

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - 返信

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - 返信

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - 返信

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - 返信

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - 返信

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - 返信

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 24、 1の画像 1
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst. Do not attempt to heat over 100˚C (212˚F).

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 返信

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 返信

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 返信

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - 返信

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - 返信

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - 返信

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - 返信

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 25、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 返信

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - 返信

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: 手順 26、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: 手順 26、 2の画像 2
    • If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

    • Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

    • Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

    • Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

    • Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

    • Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

    • Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - 返信

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - 返信

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - 返信

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - 返信

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - 返信

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - 返信

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - 返信

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - 返信

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped.

    • Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - 返信

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - 返信

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby - 返信

    The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.

    Owen Edwards - 返信

    The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.

    adbro94@yahoo.no - 返信

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 30、 1の画像 1
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - 返信

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc - 返信

    I had the same experience as Marc. My battery was also so swollen that I only needed to carefully pry underneath with a spudger from the side away from the trackpad to get it loose. I had several plastic cards on hand that I used “just in case” there was a problem.

    anasazi4st - 返信

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 31、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 31、 2の画像 2
    • If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

    • Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the right-most battery cells.

    • After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    DO NOT OVERHEAT the iOpener. Note that the replacement instructions here seem to imply just reheat and repeat every ~2 minutes. The iOpener packaging ALSO asserts just heat for 30 and go, every time. HOWEVER, on the BACK of the iOpener (never pictured), it explicitly says 30 seconds, then another 30 if and only if necessary and if the iOpener isn't hot to the touch, and then NO FURTHER warming for 10 mins. I'm guessing this is where a lot of the "2 hour" quote comes from, if you're expected to let the iOpener cool for 10 minutes for each of the 6 cells. That said, once I had mine going for 30 + 30 + (didn't read the fine print) 20 + 15, it was plenty hot to do the remainder of the cells in one go.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer and when the battery was just below too hot to touch, I was able to pull the battery off without using tools. I started from the outside and moved towards the middle. I just pointed the hairdryer under the ouyside edge of each battery and waited until it got hot to the touch.

    J lawson - 返信

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 32、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 32、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 32、 3の画像 3
    この手順で使用する道具:
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    • Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

    • Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

    • When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

    when using the iOpener, note that a full 60+ seconds of heating (divided over multiple 30 or less second nukes) will get it hot enough to melt the provided cards themselves if left in direct contact. Account for this in where you leave your cards between cells.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I suggest to be really careful when prying on the two battery modules in the center. The trackpad and the haptic feedback engine are on the other side of the "wall" and very sensitive to force. Take your time and use the solvent sparingly, but use it.

    Flo - 返信

  33. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

    • Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

    • Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

  34. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 34、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 34、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 34、 3の画像 3
    • Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

    • Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

  35. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 35、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 35、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 35、 3の画像 3
    • Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    • Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  36. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 36、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 36、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 36、 3の画像 3
    • Continue to repeat the prying procedure.

    • Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  37. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 37、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 37、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 37、 3の画像 3
    • Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and apply it to the central battery cells.

    • As before, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the center cells.

    • In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

    I grabbed a roll of scotch tape for these steps; once a cell was separated and cool, I could shimmy a good long strip of tape, sticky-side up, under the cell to cover as much of the old adhesive as I could feel and better prevent readhesion.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

  38. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 38、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 38、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 38、 3の画像 3
    • If using liquid adhesive remover, apply a few more drops under each of the final two, middle cells.

    • It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

    • Allow 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    • Gently folding the right-most battery cells out of the way, insert a plastic card under the right center cell.

    • Push the card in about half of its length to cut the adhesive holding the battery cell to the case.

    • Be sure to avoid the trackpad control board. Aim the card up toward the logic board, where the adhesive is.

    • Leave the card in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - 返信

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

    ibash - 返信

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss - 返信

    You can see it in the photos, but they don't call it out: while the side cells are in their own smooth wells, the center cells are on a raised section to accommodate the trackpad. If you shimmy your cards in and they absolutely hard-stop, be aware you probably need to get the outer cells free enough to lift so your card can clear the bezel.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I used one of my wife's icing spatula's (this one Small Spreader - Shop), and it worked really well on the middle 2 cells since it is long and slightly sharp and thin and pretty sturdy. I just took my time not to damage the cells and I was very happy with the results. Although, my wife was not happy that I made her spatula dirty and fully of adhesive but I just used a little IPA to remove the residue :).

    John B. - 返信

    Je n'avais pas le kit iFixit, ni de hot pack. J'ai utilisé de l'alcool dénaturé à 96°. Avec patience, délicatesse et une palette de plastique de 5cm de large, j'y suis arrivée plus facilement que je le pensais.

    anne guillaume - 返信

  39. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 39、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 39、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 39、 3の画像 3
    • Repeat the same procedure for the last remaining battery cell.

    • Holding the outer cells out of the way, insert the plastic card about halfway under the left center battery cell, avoiding the trackpad board.

  40. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 40、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 40、 2の画像 2
    • Return to the card beneath the right-center cell, and twist it to separate the entire battery from the upper case.

    • By now you should have cut all of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and it should come out freely.

    • If it does not come out easily, you may need to reheat the iOpener and apply it to the stuck areas, and then continue gently cutting the adhesive with the plastic cards.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - 返信

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - 返信

    This was a great tip - it helped get the liquid on the difficult middle cells without flooding the screen. I also used floss to cut through the center adhesive strips.

    A B -

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc - 返信

  41. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 41、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 41、 2の画像 2
    • Remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them last.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - 返信

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - 返信

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - 返信

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - 返信

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - 返信

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - 返信

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - 返信

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - 返信

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - 返信

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - 返信

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - 返信

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - 返信

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - 返信

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - 返信

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - 返信

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - 返信

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - 返信

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - 返信

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - 返信

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - 返信

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - 返信

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - 返信

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - 返信

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - 返信

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor - 返信

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 - 返信

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke - 返信

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc - 返信

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus - 返信

    Everything seemed to go very well, except my keyboard doesnt work now. Track pad does. Any thoughts or suggestions? HELP!

    darrylsj2 - 返信

    Same problem

    Vaso -

    Just replaced the battery on my wife's early 2015 13" MacBook Pro that I handed down to her when I bought my M1 MacBook Pro from my doctoral program. I did my entire master's program with the 2015 and it has been a beast. She working on her master's with the machine now and the only thing that has slowed it down has been the battery. I'm grateful that iFixit offers these kits and guides. I was able to replace the battery in no time at all so the 2015 will keep on trucking!

    Jeff Call - 返信

    Neither my trackpad, screen or keyboard work after this . I followed all the instructions carefully. My laptop is completely ruined, I would avoid this product at all costs !!!!

    Baylor Brangers - 返信

    Just completed the change of battery on MBPro13 early 2015. Got the kit which was a god send, made everything much more straightforward. Took my time and no problems at all apart from shuffling of speakers and battery. Not sure why I waited over a year to do this! Bloated battery and keyboard solved! Started up great and now calibrating. Thanks!

    Siobhan Keleher - 返信

  42. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Trackpad: 手順 42、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the ten 2.8 mm T3 screws securing the trackpad cover plate to the upper case.

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    Bill Boomhower - 返信

    The screws in these two steps have thread locker on them. Blue (removable) Loctite, I believe. You’ll hear a “snap” when you first turn them and that’s the Loctite breaking; following that they’re just like normal screws. You might consider putting a little bit of Blue Loctite on them before putting them back in. Be careful not to put too much though: don’t drip it onto the screw; instead, just squeeze the Loctite tube gently until a drop is sitting on the edge of the tube, then touch the tip of the screw to the drop and let capillary action suck a tiny bit of Loctite into the threads.

    Oddly, there were only 8 of these 10 T3 screws in my laptop…

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  43. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 43、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the trackpad cover plate.

  44. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 44、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the twelve 2.4 mm T5 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

  45. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 45、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 45、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 45、 3の画像 3
    • Lift up and remove the trackpad from the upper case.

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - 返信

  46. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: 手順 46、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: 手順 46、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: 手順 46、 3の画像 3
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.

    I managed to just move the cable without having to disconnect whilst replacing my MagSafe connector

    lewismacqueen - 返信

    Pull straight OUT not up.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

  47. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 47、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 47、 2の画像 2
    • Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    das Kabel ist oberhalbt ab Weg zur Ladeeinheit angeklebt. Vorsichtig lösen hilft ;)

    connector is glued to a silver covering on the way to the charchingunit.

    doaskwhy - 返信

    I had this problem too - fortunately I had the iOpener handy - heated that up in the microwave and applied it to the area where the cable is glued and the adhesive loosened!

    Sanjay Aiyagari - 返信

    The cable is glued down but in my case it was easy to gently pry off with a knife blade.

    sqeeezy - 返信

  48. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 48、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.

  49. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 49、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 49、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 49、 3の画像 3
    • Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.

    Before tightening the screws on the DC board, it helps to push it slightly outwards so that it seats against the case.

    Russell Hodin - 返信

    I just finished this install. It took me three hours to think about it and 20 min to do it. Fixed my problem right away. I am thrilled. Thank you SO much.

    samgo777 - 返信

    Thank you for the awesome step by step guide… the actual job took about 5 min… but while at it, cleaned the fan… you guys are the best.

    Calcasmy - 返信

    Step 9: My board held in place by 6-point screws. 5-point driver would not loosen.

    Overall - easy job, good instructions.

    pkeller - 返信

    Hi there! That’s a Torx screw (six points) not a pentalobe (5-points), as noted in the instructions it’s a size T5 Torx =) Great job on your repair!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Hey, I’m seeing no green light when I use my charger or any charger, is this maybe the culprit? Or the battery? Any advice would be awesome!

    Billy May - 返信

    it would be the charging port. i had to wiggle mine just to get it to charge.

    Gabriel Zepeda -

    After replacement still no green light on the charger (also when the battery is unplugged)…any advice pls?

    Michal Perner - 返信

    I have followed the as described (very clear, thank you!) but there is unfortunately still no green light on the charger, any advice what I could check?

    Paula Larsson - 返信

    Early 2015 Macbook pro. Had the same problem with no green light until I flicked the plug up and done a couple of times without breaking the magnetic adhesive field, in other words did not break the magnetic connection between the plug and the port. Doing this 2 or three time seemed to excite/entice/inspire the green light and the charge system to engage. Not sure whether there is a a physical issue with the port or an electronic issue with the charge circuit that would require a more sudden jolt from the initiation of the charger given the slight distance from the connector. Similar to the amperage increase of of the distance of spark plug wire to a spark plug but...it has worked for this application. I also change out the battery as it was in an expanded condition. The same problem with the charge initiation existed prior to the battery change and doesn't seem to have modified its behavior any since the battery swap. Also, green light in the past would be yellow, and charge, when green wouldn't?

    Henry - 返信

    Sweet thanks! Used a MagSafe 1 charger in my a1502 MacBook Pro (MagSafe 2) I had to grind a bit the aluminum of the MagSafe 1 plug so that it fit, was charging fine but next morning it wasn’t charging with any of the chargers so this was the fix, easy 5 min job.

    As I researched in YouTube MagSafe 1 can kill this piece so it looks like I’m stupid ✌🏼

    Thanks again 🙏🏼

    Charlie garcia - 返信

    Thanks!!! First class instructions on MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement. Apple were not able to repair my computer as it is no longer supported and they no longer had the necessary part available. I sourced the necessary part and with the help of these instructions now have a working laptop again.

    Klaus - 返信

  50. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: 手順 50、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: 手順 50、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: 手順 50、 3の画像 3
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

  51. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 51、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 51、 2の画像 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

  52. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 52、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • In the Early 2015 model, this is a silver 2.7 mm T5 screw.

    For the Phillips screw, my PH #0 screwdriver fit the most securely, not #00 and definitely not #000

    On reassembly, tighten the 4 screws in a star/cross pattern (google: wheel 4 lug nut tightening pattern)

    Gene Pavlovsky - 返信

  53. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 53、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 53、 2の画像 2
  54. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 54、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 54、 2の画像 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  55. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 55、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 55、 2の画像 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

    If you're re-assembling, and following in reverse order, I found it easier to complete step 54 and THEN step 55. The iSight camera cable connector was easier to put back into the socket BEFORE sticking the cable back onto the fan housing.

    Austinscherer - 返信

  56. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 56、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 56、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 56、 3の画像 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.

  57. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 57、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  58. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 58、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 58、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 58、 3の画像 3
    • Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.

  59. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 59、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 59、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 59、 3の画像 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    • When reconnecting the antenna cables, run them over the camera cable, not underneath.

  60. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 60、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 60、 2の画像 2
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  61. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 61、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.5 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

    • One 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    The T9 screwdriver was the right fit for me, not T8

    Gene Pavlovsky - 返信

  62. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 62、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 62、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 62、 3の画像 3
    • Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

    • When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  63. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 63、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 63、 2の画像 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and move it out of the way.

  64. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 64、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 64、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 64、 3の画像 3
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  65. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 65、 1の画像 1
    • Pull the microphone cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  66. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 66、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 66、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 66、 3の画像 3
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Qué ocurre si se te rompe esta pestaña?

    Al desmontar el teclado se ha saltado. No sé si está rota

    Dani - 返信

  67. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 67、 1の画像 1
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

    If you get an aftermarket keyboard , don't peel the blue backing on the ribbon cable. I mistakenly thought it was a temporary factory protective cover, but it's in fact part of the cable.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I thought it was a protective cover too and took it off. I still have the film but it is curled an no longer adheres to the connector. Is there anything that can replace it if it’s been taken off? Or anything I can do to adhere it again?

    jfarbowitz -

  68. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 68、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

  69. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 69、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 69、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 69、 3の画像 3
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case and remove the logic board.

    • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

    • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  70. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 70、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 70、 2の画像 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

  71. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 71、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 71、 2の画像 2
    • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

  72. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 72、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 72、 2の画像 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  73. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 73、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 73、 2の画像 2
    • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    I had to use a T9 driver to remove these. Almost stripped the screws using the T8 but T9 with some pressure worked great.

    Dave Burke - 返信

    I concur, the T9 screwdriver is the one to use

    Gene Pavlovsky - 返信

  74. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 74、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 74、 2の画像 2
    • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end, as shown.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    When re-attaching, the bracket holding the antenna cables to the bottom hinge should go on before the bottom T8 screw (so, hinge, then antenna cable bracket, then T8 screw). Additionally, I recommend you don't tighten that bottom T8 screw too much at this step. Instead, wait for step 73 to tighten - so the second T8 screw (that also goes into the antenna cable bracket) can be aligned first.

    Austinscherer - 返信

  75. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 75、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 75、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 75、 3の画像 3
    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

  76. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 76、 1の画像 1
    • Place the MacBook on a heated iOpener for about a minute to soften the adhesive securing the dual microphone cable.

  77. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 77、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 77、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 77、 3の画像 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the rubber microphone cable cover to free it form the upper case.

    • Remove the rubber microphone cable cover.

  78. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 78、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 78、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 78、 3の画像 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case.

  79. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 79、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 79、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 79、 3の画像 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

  80. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement: 手順 80、 1の画像 1
    • Remove the microphone cable from the upper case.

終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

57 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

作成者

6人の作成者と共同で作成されました。

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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8 件のコメント

Hey I need to replace my track pad for sure, but would anyone know if the circuit board on the backside of the track pad controls the keyboard? or where the hardware is that controls the keyboard? My mouse and keyboard arent working due to water damage and apple wants 750 for a part thats less then 100 dollars. Any insight would be much appreciated!

Mike Hillenbrand - 返信

@andrew how do you re-assemble the iOpener-removed battery? Just lay it in-place and re-heat it all with the iOpener? Can the adhesive be re-used?

Joey Mink - 返信

I ended up reassembling with the remaining glue on the battery and trackpad cover panel. I used a hairdryer to attempt to reactivate the glue since my iRemover sprung a leak. The outside-most cells are loose - oh well :). Maybe I'll open it up and tape them down.

Joey Mink -

Well done Andrew!!! I followed this guide and surprisingly everything is good. The tech at the Apple store tried to convince my daughter that she fried the logic board + keyboard by getting water into it. (It was a month past the warranty so we didn't argue.) But she swears she never got any liquid near it. I didn't see any obvious signs of moisture when I opened it up. Based on other comments on other sites, it seems more like Apple has shipped some defective keyboards for at least some MacBook models.

campbell.brad - 返信

that’s exactly what is happening with me now!!! apple is trying to convince me that there is a liquid damage exactly on the I/o board in my mackbook pro early 2015. At first the battery isn’t charging and they said that they will change the top case including keyboard and battery, five days later which is today the call me saying they discovered a liquid damage on the I/o board and the price will be changed from 200 hundred pounds to 325 pounds. I definitely refused and suspected them. now I took my MacBook back again and looking for another solution. it works fine with the power cable. so any idea would be highly appreciated.

many thanks

sofian

Sofian -

Thank you so much! What an awesome guide!

The only suggestion I can make is during reassembly, on steps 55-57 (fan), insert the fan cable into the ZIF socket while placing the fan back into its cavity. Much easier than trying to bend it into place after the fan is screwed into place.

Jason Muzzy - 返信

Finally, if your replacement keyboard changes ANSI, JIS or any other key layout / language, you may need to make sure the MacBook correctly identifies each key on the keyboard both physically and software - wise. I had to use a software called “Karabiner” to make it match..

jeffhsu - 返信

Excellent instructions ! nothing more to say tbh. I just did a repair 5mins ago using the instruction front to back

Dave - 返信

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