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はじめに

ファンを交換する際にはこのガイドをご利用ください。

ヒートシンクを再装着する前に 放熱グリスの塗布方法を参照しながら作業を行ってください。

  1. 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mmペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mmペンタローブネジー8本

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 返信

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - 返信

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 返信

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

  2. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

  3. 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - 返信

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - 返信

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 返信

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

  4. 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 返信

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - 返信

  5. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 返信

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 返信

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

  6. PCラップトップ用バッテリー

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    ショップを見る

    PCラップトップ用バッテリー

    An easy fix for a big power boost.

    ショップを見る
  7. 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 返信

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 返信

  8. ヒートシンクの端からゴム製のファンバンパーを丁寧に取り出します。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周辺に巻かれており、ファンダクトの溝に留められています。再組み立ての際は、タブがファンダクトの溝にきちんと装着されているか確認してください。 ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周辺に巻かれており、ファンダクトの溝に留められています。再組み立ての際は、タブがファンダクトの溝にきちんと装着されているか確認してください。
    • ヒートシンクの端からゴム製のファンバンパーを丁寧に取り出します。

    • ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周辺に巻かれており、ファンダクトの溝に留められています。再組み立ての際は、タブがファンダクトの溝にきちんと装着されているか確認してください。

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - 返信

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、4つのフォーム製ステッカーをヒートシンクのネジから剥がします。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、4つのフォーム製ステッカーをヒートシンクのネジから剥がします。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、4つのフォーム製ステッカーをヒートシンクのネジから剥がします。

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - 返信

  10. ロジックボードに留められたヒートシンクから次のネジを外します。
    • ロジックボードに留められたヒートシンクから次のネジを外します。

    • 2.7 mm T5ネジ(シルバー)ー1本

    • T5ネジ(黒)ー4本

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - 返信

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - 返信

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - 返信

  11. ラップトップからヒートシンクを取り出します。 コンピューターを再組み立てする際は、放熱グリスを付着する必要があるため、この手順に従ってください。
    • ラップトップからヒートシンクを取り出します。

    • コンピューターを再組み立てする際は、放熱グリスを付着する必要があるため、この手順に従ってください。

  12. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外すため、iSightカメラケーブルコネクターを外側へ押し出します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外すため、iSightカメラケーブルコネクターを外側へ押し出します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外すため、iSightカメラケーブルコネクターを外側へ押し出します。

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - 返信

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

  13. iSightカメラのケーブルを内蔵ファンから取り出して、作業の邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。 iSightカメラのケーブルを内蔵ファンから取り出して、作業の邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。
    • iSightカメラのケーブルを内蔵ファンから取り出して、作業の邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。

  14. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上のタブを上向きに折り曲げます。 ファンケーブルをソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて外します。 ファンケーブルをソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上のタブを上向きに折り曲げます。

    • ファンケーブルをソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて外します。

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - 返信

  15. 上部ケースに留められたファンから次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められたファンから次のネジを外します。

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

  16. ディスプレイの丁番に近いファンの先端を持ち上げて、上部ケースからファンを外します。 ディスプレイの丁番に近いファンの先端を持ち上げて、上部ケースからファンを外します。 ディスプレイの丁番に近いファンの先端を持ち上げて、上部ケースからファンを外します。
    • ディスプレイの丁番に近いファンの先端を持ち上げて、上部ケースからファンを外します。

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - 返信

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

40 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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Very good instructions, just completed the fan replacement, no issues -

David Tyra - 返信

Fantastic instructions, brilliant depictions for assistance. Thank you!

Ethan Tarquin - 返信

I completed this guide and it was brilliant, so thank you Andrew Optimus Goldberg and your contributors! I have a question about the Macbook's heat post-installation of a new fan.

I replaced the fan last night, and put everything back together. Today, the new fan is responding well under activities that would previously make the fan extremely loud and cause intense heat to build up on the bottom right of the Macbook: so far so good.

However, it seems heat is now being distributed to the keys and directly below the screen, and I can even feel it underneath the trackpad, and this is from simply turning the Macbook on with no applications straining the CPU.

Is this something to worry about? Have I possibly made a mistake in my installation, or is this normal for an ordinary working fan?

Thanks for any help that may be given. Appreciated

Ethan Tarquin - 返信

Is the fan you replaced the original one with the exact same model? While im no expert on this stuff my guess would be that it distributes air differently. I hope it works out for you though.

Nikolay -

Just completed the fan replacement. Great clear instructions. No issues. Thank you so much.

Donald Kelly - 返信

pube toast 2 too short

Albert Einstein - 返信

Completed the fan replacement the instructions were great, no troubles at all. The fan was an exact fit and fast shipping !

Jerome Kurtzman - 返信

This was an excellent tutorial. After buying a Macbook repair kit ~$10 with the screwdrivers and spudger, I was able to I was able to replace my fan in about 30 minutes without any problems. Thanks very much for this.

Dylan Parry - 返信

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