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MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

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  1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, 底ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
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    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 返信

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 返信

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 返信

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 返信

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman - 返信

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 - 返信

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, バッテリーコネクター: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 返信

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya - 返信

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis - 返信

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 返信

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 返信

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 返信

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 返信

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu - 返信

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO - 返信

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem - 返信

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest - 返信

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis - 返信

  6. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark - 返信

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, 右側スピーカー: 手順 7、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, 右側スピーカー: 手順 7、 2の画像 2
    • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットのロジックボード先端に留められた2.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - 返信

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - 返信

    Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).

    Catalin Dumitru - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから出入力ボードコネクターをまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルのみこじ開けるようにご注意ください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうことになります。

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    This was a great tip - I just moved the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them, which made things easy to deal with. Thank you.

    A B -

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - 返信

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - 返信

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 9、 2の画像 2
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード側先端を邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージが入らないように、ケーブルの出入力ボード先端のベントで折り曲げてください。

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Thank you - this tip saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    A B -

  10. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側スピーカーケーブル下に丁寧に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからこのケーブルを押し上げます。

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - 返信

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - 返信

    Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.

    Steven Cutchen - 返信

    This step should be skipped.I pulled it all off, hard to pull one off alone.

    You can skip step 10,11 go to 12, and fold it over. Same as left.

    Then go to step 17.

    yong jack - 返信

    This should NOT be done. Shame on iFixit! Its easy to rip the socket off the board if the connector holding too tight. I had to resolder the socket onto the traces of the board.

    Paul Lebow - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • 上部ケースから右側スピーカーケーブルを取り外します。

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - 返信

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - 返信

  12. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに留められた右側スピーカーから次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 3
    • 右側のスピーカーをケーブルの先端から持ち上げて、ケースから外します。

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - 返信

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - 返信

    Hi everyone.

    I have a problem with the right speaker of my macbook pro early 2015.

    The sound has a strange vibration and it is impossible to hear the audio properly except with headphones.

    I disassembled the macbook and extracted the speakers to check their condition but they are both perfect.

    I wanted to ask all of you who have replaced speakers what condition you found them in.

    Could the vibration be due to the deformation of the case due to the swelling of the battery? Is there another way to tell if the speaker actually needs to be replaced?

    Thank you all.

    Antonello Cicciu' - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, 左側スピーカー: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, 左側スピーカー: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 返信

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    Macrepair SF - 返信

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 返信

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - 返信

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson - 返信

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.

    David Obis - 返信

    Speakers aren't working now... perhaps because I connected and disconnected then while the battery was still on. Even headphones don't work... Hmm...

    justsome631 - 返信

    Its absolutely true, this is not neccessary. It works greate without removing the speakers

    Andreas Schmidt - 返信

  15. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 15、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 返信

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 返信

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 返信

    Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!

    David Wamsley -

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - 返信

    Muchas gracias amigo, cambié las bocinas sin problema. :)

    Juan Antonio - 返信

  16. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 16、 3の画像 3
    • 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリー周辺にスライドさせて、上部ケースから外します。

    • ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 返信

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 返信

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 返信

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 返信

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - 返信

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson - 返信

    For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery

    David Obis - 返信

  17. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, トラックパッドケーブル: 手順 17、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, トラックパッドケーブル: 手順 17、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    If you also remove the other end of the mouse cable, remember to lower the lever when you reinsert it.

    Maximillian - 返信

    It is important to be really GENTLE with the trackpad cable.

    It is sometimes glued on very strong, and it is easy to damage it internally with no visible outer damage. In my case, I damaged just one line, and at first I didn't realize it.

    My TRACKPAD was working fine, but the Force Touch haptic Feedback wasn't working. I tried everything else, but eventually I replaced this ribbon cable with a cheap used one and that fixed it immediately.

    Flo - 返信

  18. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • トラックパッドケーブルをバッテリーから持ち上げて、ケーブルに留められた接着剤を剥がします。

    • ケーブルにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。簡単にケーブルが剥がれない場合は、 iOpenerやヒートガン、ヘアドライヤーを使って接着剤を温めてから再試行してください。

    • 新しいトラックパッドケーブルをインストールする場合は、古いケーブルと形が一致するように折ってください。新しいケーブルは折らなければ長すぎることがあります。

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - 返信

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - 返信

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - 返信

  19. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 19、 3の画像 3
    • 必要に応じて、トラックパッドケーブルコネクターを覆っているテープを剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上の固定タブを返します。

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - 返信

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - 返信

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - 返信

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - 返信

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - 返信

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - 返信

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc - 返信

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.


    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt - 返信

    Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!

    Kelly Archer - 返信

    READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.

    Broke the ZIF connector :-(

    Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.

    houguy - 返信

    Zip connector flip broke - now I only have a connection in rare occasions. Has anyone an easy hack like gluing the thing in place ore something 🥲?

    Matthias S. - 返信

  20. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • トラックパッドボード上のZIFソケットからキーボードケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • 再組み立ての際、ケーブルをソケットに差し込む前に、留め具が上向きでロックが解除されていることを確認してください。

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - 返信

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - 返信

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - 返信

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - 返信

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - 返信

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - 返信

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - 返信

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss - 返信

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve - 返信

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt - 返信

    Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?

    Jose Huerta -

    Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…

    Katrin Klug -

    I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit

    Cameron Wheatley -

    So during re-assembly, my cable is not going in all the way. I think is causing the haptic feedback on the trackpad to stop working. Does anyone have any solution to this?

    Vysak Sasikumar - 返信

    Success. I bought a replacement ribbon cable and followed ifixit instructions. The ribbon cable is too long as is stated. I worried that bending the cable would crimp it, causing the same malfunction as the original. What to do? I did bend it a little but the cable still had a bow in it. I decided to place a piece of plastic (guessing about 5 mm thick) under the cable which held the cable nicely to the right length, without crimping. Then taped to the battery. The computer back panel then screwed on with no issue and did not have a bulge such as to cause the computer to rock and layed flat on the bumper feet. The computer worked perfectly. Thank you “ifixit”

    ron bryanton - 返信

  21. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 21、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーボードから 3.7 mm T5 トルクスネジを1本外します。

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - 返信

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - 返信

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - 返信

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - 返信

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - 返信

  22. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, バッテリー: 手順 22、 1の画像 1
    • 液体の接着剤リムーバーはiFixitバッテリー交換キットに含まれています。MacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与える場合があります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミフォイルシートを挟んでください。

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - 返信

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - 返信

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

  23. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • 液体状の接着剤リムーバー付きのiFixitバッテリーキットをお持ちの方は、作業の準備を開始しましょう!

    • 代わりに、iOpenerを温めて開口する方法を利用する方は、次の3つの手順をスキップしてください。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに含まれています)

    • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに含まれています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - 返信

  24. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 3
    • 接着剤リムーバーの容器から先端に付いている黒色のキャップを引き抜きます。

    • アップリケーターの先端を切断する前に、ボトルのキャップを緩めるためひねって取り出します。

    • これによりボトルのシールが解除され、アプリケーター先端を切断する前に圧力が均等になります。この手順をスキップする場合は、接着剤リムーバーの先端を切断した際に、予期せず飛び散ってしまうことがあります。

    • ハサミを使ってアップリケーターの密封された先端を切断します。

    • 先端を切断する方が、少量の接着剤リムーバーをコントロール良く付けることができます。

    • しっかりとキャップを閉めてください。それから次の手順に移ります。

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - 返信

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby - 返信

    The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.

    Owen Edwards - 返信

    The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.

    adbro94@yahoo.no - 返信

  25. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 25、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーセルの一番右側端の下に均等に接着剤リムーバーを数滴垂らします。

    • リムーバーは多量に流し込む必要はありません。この小さな接着剤リムーバーのボトルには、全てのバッテリーセルを取り出すのに必要な量の倍が入っています。

    • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - 返信

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc - 返信

    I had the same experience as Marc. My battery was also so swollen that I only needed to carefully pry underneath with a spudger from the side away from the trackpad to get it loose. I had several plastic cards on hand that I used “just in case” there was a problem.

    anasazi4st - 返信

  26. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 2
    • 液体状の接着剤リムーバーをお持ちでない方は、温めた iOpenerを使って上部ケースにバッテリーを固定している接着剤部分を柔らかくします。温まったら丁寧にこじ開けていきます。

    • 温まったiOpenerを使って、バッテリーセルの右側部分半分を覆います。

    • 約1分後、iOpenerを再度温めて、一番右側のバッテリーセルの残り半分を覆います。

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - 返信

    DO NOT OVERHEAT the iOpener. Note that the replacement instructions here seem to imply just reheat and repeat every ~2 minutes. The iOpener packaging ALSO asserts just heat for 30 and go, every time. HOWEVER, on the BACK of the iOpener (never pictured), it explicitly says 30 seconds, then another 30 if and only if necessary and if the iOpener isn't hot to the touch, and then NO FURTHER warming for 10 mins. I'm guessing this is where a lot of the "2 hour" quote comes from, if you're expected to let the iOpener cool for 10 minutes for each of the 6 cells. That said, once I had mine going for 30 + 30 + (didn't read the fine print) 20 + 15, it was plenty hot to do the remainder of the cells in one go.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer and when the battery was just below too hot to touch, I was able to pull the battery off without using tools. I started from the outside and moved towards the middle. I just pointed the hairdryer under the ouyside edge of each battery and waited until it got hot to the touch.

    J lawson - 返信

  27. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 3
    この手順で使用する道具:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
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    • プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。両側に留められた接着剤を剥がします。

    • この手順全体で、ツールでバッテリーにダメージを与えてしまわないようにご注意ください。ダメージの入ったリチウムイオンバッテリーは危険な化学物質が排出されて引火する恐れがあります。作業にはプラスチック製のツールのみご利用ください。

    • 温めたiOpenerを利用する方法の場合は、こじ開ける際にかなりの抵抗力があるかもしれません。その場合は作業を一旦停止してiOpenerを再度温め、該当箇所に載せます。

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

    when using the iOpener, note that a full 60+ seconds of heating (divided over multiple 30 or less second nukes) will get it hot enough to melt the provided cards themselves if left in direct contact. Account for this in where you leave your cards between cells.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I suggest to be really careful when prying on the two battery modules in the center. The trackpad and the haptic feedback engine are on the other side of the "wall" and very sensitive to force. Take your time and use the solvent sparingly, but use it.

    Flo - 返信

  28. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 28、 3の画像 3
    • 次のバッテリーセルについても、前の手順を繰り返します。

    • 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それから、液体が浸透して柔らかくなるまで約2−3分間待ちます。

    • もしくは、必要に応じて iOpenerでこの部分を再度温めます。

    • バッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に約1インチ(2.5㎝)ほどプラスチックカードを差し込み、ゆっくりと接着剤を剥がしながら押し上げます。

  29. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • プラスチックカードを右側端2つのバッテリーと上部ケースの間に差し込こんだまま、次の作業に移ります。

    • iOpenerを再度温めて、今度はバッテリーの左側に載せます。

    • 再度、iOpenerを右左端の各バッテリーの上に交代で載せて 約1分間温めます。左右に載せる間、iOpenerを一度温めてください。

  30. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 3
    • 左右2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから取り出すために上の手順を繰り返します。

    • 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それからセルをこじ開ける前に、液体が浸透するまで約2−3分間待ちます。

    • 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースから左端2つのバッテリーセルを取り出します。

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  31. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 3
    • 引き続き、こじ開ける作業を繰り返します。

    • プラスチックカードを左端から2番目のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込み、ケースに留められた接着剤を剥がしながら持ち上げます。

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  32. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 32、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 32、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 32、 3の画像 3
    • 左側2つのバッテリーセルの角の下にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。

    • 温めたiOpenerを使って、中央のバッテリーセルの上に載せます。

    • 前回と同じように、温めたiOpenerを中央バッテリー半分に約1分間載せて、再び温めた後、残り半分のバッテリーに約1分間載せます。

    • 次の手順では、3枚目のカードを使うか、右側端に挿入していたカードを使ってください。右側端の接着剤はすでに乾燥/冷却されているはずで、必要であれば簡単にバッテリーセルを持ち上げることができます。

    I grabbed a roll of scotch tape for these steps; once a cell was separated and cool, I could shimmy a good long strip of tape, sticky-side up, under the cell to cover as much of the old adhesive as I could feel and better prevent readhesion.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

  33. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • 接着剤リムーバーを利用している場合は、少量の接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入します。

    • MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。

    • 作業を続ける前に、接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2–3分間待ちます。

    • プラスチックカードを一番右端2つのバッテリーセルの下に差し込んで持ち上げ、邪魔にならないように折りたたみます。

    • ケースにバッテリーセルを留めている接着剤を剥がすため、カードの約半分まで押し込みます。

    • トラックパッドコントロールボードに接触しないようにご注意ください。カードを接着剤が付けられているロジックボード側に向けて押し込みます。

    • 接着剤が固まるまでカードをそのままに残します。

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - 返信

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

    ibash - 返信

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss - 返信

    You can see it in the photos, but they don't call it out: while the side cells are in their own smooth wells, the center cells are on a raised section to accommodate the trackpad. If you shimmy your cards in and they absolutely hard-stop, be aware you probably need to get the outer cells free enough to lift so your card can clear the bezel.

    Sean Kelly - 返信

    I used one of my wife's icing spatula's (this one Small Spreader - Shop), and it worked really well on the middle 2 cells since it is long and slightly sharp and thin and pretty sturdy. I just took my time not to damage the cells and I was very happy with the results. Although, my wife was not happy that I made her spatula dirty and fully of adhesive but I just used a little IPA to remove the residue :).

    John B. - 返信

    Je n'avais pas le kit iFixit, ni de hot pack. J'ai utilisé de l'alcool dénaturé à 96°. Avec patience, délicatesse et une palette de plastique de 5cm de large, j'y suis arrivée plus facilement que je le pensais.

    anne guillaume - 返信

  34. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 34、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 34、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 34、 3の画像 3
    • 最後に残されたバッテリーセルも同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • トラックパッドボードに接触しないよう気をつけながら、外側のバッテリーセル2つを片手で持ち、さらに左側中央バッテリーセルの下にプラスチックカード半分を差し込みます。

  35. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 35、 2の画像 2
    • 中央右側のバッテリーセルの下に置いたプラスチックカードに戻り、残りのバッテリーを上部ケースから完全に取り出すためにカードを押し込みながらひねります。

    • ここまでにバッテリーを上部ケースに留めている接着剤を全て剥がしているはずです。この場合、問題なく取り出せます。

    • 簡単に取り出せない場合は、iOpener を再度温めて付着している部分に載せてください。それからプラスチックカードを差し込み、接着剤を剥がします。

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - 返信

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - 返信

    This was a great tip - it helped get the liquid on the difficult middle cells without flooding the screen. I also used floss to cut through the center adhesive strips.

    A B -

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc - 返信

  36. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 36、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 36、 2の画像 2
    • バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

    • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

    • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

    • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。バッテリーの配置やフィット感を丁寧に確認してください。それから接着剤に留められたフィルムを剥がして、バッテリーをしっかりと装着します。もしオリジナルのバッテリーには付いていなかった追加のフィルム/ライナーがある場合は、これらを最後に取ってください。

    • この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのカリブレーションを行なってください。100%になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100%まで充電します。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - 返信

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - 返信

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - 返信

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - 返信

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - 返信

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - 返信

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - 返信

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - 返信

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - 返信

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - 返信

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - 返信

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - 返信

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - 返信

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - 返信

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - 返信

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - 返信

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - 返信

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - 返信

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - 返信

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - 返信

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - 返信

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - 返信

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - 返信

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - 返信

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor - 返信

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 - 返信

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke - 返信

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc - 返信

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker - 返信

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus - 返信

    Everything seemed to go very well, except my keyboard doesnt work now. Track pad does. Any thoughts or suggestions? HELP!

    darrylsj2 - 返信

    Same problem

    Vaso -

    Just replaced the battery on my wife's early 2015 13" MacBook Pro that I handed down to her when I bought my M1 MacBook Pro from my doctoral program. I did my entire master's program with the 2015 and it has been a beast. She working on her master's with the machine now and the only thing that has slowed it down has been the battery. I'm grateful that iFixit offers these kits and guides. I was able to replace the battery in no time at all so the 2015 will keep on trucking!

    Jeff Call - 返信

    Neither my trackpad, screen or keyboard work after this . I followed all the instructions carefully. My laptop is completely ruined, I would avoid this product at all costs !!!!

    Baylor Brangers - 返信

    Just completed the change of battery on MBPro13 early 2015. Got the kit which was a god send, made everything much more straightforward. Took my time and no problems at all apart from shuffling of speakers and battery. Not sure why I waited over a year to do this! Bloated battery and keyboard solved! Started up great and now calibrating. Thanks!

    Siobhan Keleher - 返信

  37. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換, トラックパッド: 手順 37、 1の画像 1
    • トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している10個の2.8mm T3ネジを取り外してください。

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    Bill Boomhower - 返信

    The screws in these two steps have thread locker on them. Blue (removable) Loctite, I believe. You’ll hear a “snap” when you first turn them and that’s the Loctite breaking; following that they’re just like normal screws. You might consider putting a little bit of Blue Loctite on them before putting them back in. Be careful not to put too much though: don’t drip it onto the screw; instead, just squeeze the Loctite tube gently until a drop is sitting on the edge of the tube, then touch the tip of the screw to the drop and let capillary action suck a tiny bit of Loctite into the threads.

    Oddly, there were only 8 of these 10 T3 screws in my laptop…

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  38. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 38、 1の画像 1
    • トラックパッドのカバープレートを取り外してください。

  39. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 39、 1の画像 1
    • トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している12個の2.4mm T5ネジを取り外してください。

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

  40. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • 上部ケースからトラックパッドを持ち上げて取り外してください。

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。

73 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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31 件のコメント

Is there a way to get a calibration software somehow ? Is Apple offering paid calibration service and what is the cost?

Windcatcher - 返信

I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together.

No software needed

David Chin -

If you do this yourself, Apple will not touch your laptop with a 10-foot pole, you will have voided any existing warranty. They would require you to purchase a new trackpad from them and they will install/calibrate it themselves

MacAmbulance - 返信

Can you only replace the control board of the trackpad ?

Gilliano - 返信

I don’t think they sell the control board separate from the trackpad panel - comes soldered together

David Chin -

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. “ Ah, yes, because now that the adhesive on the battery has been removed it should apparently still work! What a dumb reassembly instruction. You don’t sell the adhesive strips on their own either.

Michael Rasmussen - 返信

This is a valid point, sir. I recently had to replace the battery and in going through that process realized once the battery was finally freed from the bondage of adhesive that was remarkably overboard for securing a battery in a laptop, there it was… access to the trackpad. All that was stopping me were those 10, I repeat 10! Torx! Screws! that were yet a different size than the majorrity of the torx screws securing other components. I never did venture further as I was ready to be finished, the task at hand had proved to be arduous enough. It does give one a good perspective however this mother &&^&@* is NOT an easy to repair laptop. While the potential exists for many of the components to be replaced, it certainly isn’t a cake walk.

eeM Gee -

Worked like a charm! In my case I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

My wifes MAC was already out of warranty, and the official authorized service in Slovakia asked 480 € for replacement of the whole trackpad, battery, keyboard and topcase. So I bought the flex from eBay, replaced it myself and fixed it for just 15 €. Really really HUGE THANKS for this repair guide

Brachaci Brachacovsky - 返信

I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

Thx for this comment! Laptop fully functional again.

Symptoms I noticed:

- first my touchpad didn’t work during login (1 or 2 times), but did after logging in (keyboard still worked)

- later my touchpad and keyboard didn’t work (“no keyboard connected“ warning), even after logging in with usb keyboard

Tjen Wellens -

I just finished! It had a million screws! Ok, so first of all there is NO adjustment needed for the haptic feedback. Works perfect. This is for the LATE 2015 13.3” MacBook Pro retina. I did not use the microwave heat thing nor did I use the adhesive remover liquid. I used a two inch paint spatula and slid it under the battery one at a time extremely slow and carefully lifted each battery from the edge and let the adhesive slowly separate as I i pried it up. The batteries did not tear but the adhesive was not reusable. I used double sided tape when I put them back in. Be prepared and make sure you have all three screw drivers before you begin. One last thing, I had to go back to the store three times because I kept ruining the screw driver heads. These screws are so tiny and in there really good in some places. The screws won’t strip but the screw driver sure will. Push down hard and don’t tighten to hard!

Erik - 返信

I had to only do apart of this tutorial, which was to replace the trackpad cable, because my keyboard and mouse stopped working the other night. Very simple and this was very helpful. Like many others have found that most replacement cables are a little longer than the originals but I just gently bent the cable along with the contours of the plastic and other pieces that it sat on top of.

Bradley Clampitt - 返信

Followed the tutorial, worked perfectly. However, now my keyboard stopped working (the trackpad is ok now). Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?

Bert Van Wassenhove - 返信

How are we supposed to glue the battery back together? Should we heat it up to activate the adhesive strip, I tried it and it worked only weakly….

Should we use super glue?

benjamin parpillon - 返信

As a general rule, you shouldn’t re-use the battery once it has been removed—you want to replace it with a new one. The battery isn’t designed to be removed and can easily get damaged in the process. Reinstalling it afterward puts your MacBook at risk and may be a fire hazard. Remove the battery, remove the old adhesive as instructed, and replace it with a new one. The replacement battery should have new adhesive pre-installed, so there’s no need for any super glue. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Does the trackpad replacement requires that the battery also should be replaced? I have a crackling sound under the trackpad. Genius mentioned that the circuitry attached to the trackpad is making sound because of the spill. I would like to know if i should by battery and the trackpad and replace both or just trackpad with all the tools.

Thank you

Kartik Shah - 返信

Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?

The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.

For example;

T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.

Here is the replacement part I bought.

Thanks,

Monsieur Bond - 返信

Hello all, this is the first time I’m typing anything beyond the basic tests after replacing my trackpad cable. It wouldn’t have seemed obvious to me, but after going to the Apple store to investigate my ‘keyboard not working’ issues, they reported that I might, first, try replacing the trackpad cable. For $80 U.S. they’d order and install the cable for me, <fingers crossed>. I Decided I’d rather do that myself. I ordered the part from fixit for $10 plus $5 shipping (and some stickers too) and put my two specialty screwdrivers, spudger and finesse top the test. Other than skipping from Step 3 to 17, my keyboard worked right after I powered back up. Super happy with fixit. Thanks for making this site, thanks Andrew for making this page, thanks everyone else for commenting. Can we make sure there’s a way to let people who are trying to resolve the KEYBOARD NOT WORKING issue might actually be a try-replacing-the-trackpad-cable SOLUTION?

thanks again, Brandt

Brandt Sennhenn - 返信

I would start off replacing the cable then you’ll likely need a new touchpad if that fails to fix things.

Dan -

Hi, my trackpad isn’t vibrating, do i need to replace only the cable or replace the trackpad with new one?

anakin skywalker - 返信

You need a new touchpad unit

Dan -

Do i need to buy a new battery for this repair?

Benjamin H - 返信

It would make sense! Your current battery likely needs replacing soon anyways. It depends how difficult it was to take out and if it’s damaged in the process (which you often do).

Dan -

Empecé a seguir este tutorial porque tanto el trackpad como el teclado dejaron de funcionar. Lo seguí paso a paso hasta el punto de quitar las baterías. Al no tener a mano esa herramienta, decidí esperar a que me llegase para continuar.

Antes de cerrarlo, limpié toda la placa y los conectores con una brocha y Alcohol isopropílico. Cuando acabé lo volví a conectar todo y lo cerré de nuevo. Al encender el portátil para ver si todo esta bien, me di cuenta de que tanto el teclado como el Trackpad funcionaban perfectamente. SOLO NECESITABAN UNA BUENA LIMPIEZA.

Gracias por la guía de desmontaje.

Naomi Díaz - 返信

I just did this today, my liquid damaged laptop is now working perfectly! I was a bit intimidated by the battery replacement but it really wasn’t so bad. I used 99% alcohol and an old credit card and with a bit of cautious perseverance it all came up. The hardest part was replacing the trackpad cable, it’s too long and has to be bent to fit into the case, I was scared to pinch it into a proper “fold”. My case is a tiny bit poofed out now and I can’t get the remaining 2 screws in. Not sure whether to try again with it or just leave it now. In any case I’m happy that the keyboard and trackpad is functional again!

Georgina Hardcastle - 返信

Can I purchase the trackpad cable by itself?

Faliere Dieujuste - 返信

If you find it, why not?

Daniele Carminati -

thanks for the great guide. I was trying to decide between just buying a top case on ebay that had the trackpad still mounted, or following this guide. but as I wanted to put in a new battery also this worked out perfectly….

Phillip Sage - 返信

FIXED my issue with the keyboard and trackpad not working. Started with the computer shutting down and not being responsive for a day. Then it turned into a couple of days in between uses. Both the keyboard and the trackpad were completely unresponsive EXCEPT for the power key. I tried resetting the SMC and PRAM which did nothing. Followed these steps after purchasing the full kit from iFixIt and BOOM!!! All systems go!!! Plus, now my battery is fresh! These instructions were great - made the process very manageable for someone with a very limited tech knowledgeable. The side-by-side pictures were a huge help - you NEVER see that kind of detail and clarity from pictures in instructions. THANK YOU for this!!!

Scott Deady - 返信

My taptic engine is not working. Should I replace the touchpad or the cable?

soldatov.mike - 返信

Is it the same for 15" middle 2015?

giport - 返信

No, review Steps 26 & 27 for the trackpad and Step 33 for the keyboard in this guide MacBook Pro 15'' Retina Display Mid 2015のロジックボードの交換.

How about posing your Q’s in the Answers forum

Dan -

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