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修理を始めるには

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はじめに

お使いの感圧(Force Touch)トラックパッドは以前より強い力でなければ応答しませんか?Taptic engineは故障していまか?このガイドに従って、MacBook Pro 13" MacBook Proのトラックパッドを交換します。

この手順では、接着剤リムーバーを使って、バッテリーを取り出します。取り出したバッテリーの再利用は絶対にしないでください。バッテリー を取り出す際のストレスによって、バッテリー セルに見えないダメージを与えています。このため、バッテリー には危険が潜んでいます。新しいバッテリー と交換してください。

iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性が高いです。このリムーバーを使って作業をする際は、通気性のよい場所で行ってください。作業中、付近で喫煙したり、火器のある場所で行わないでください。

デバイスを再組み立てする前に、バッテリーの残量を完全に放電してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリー は引火の原因となったり、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと爆発の恐れがあります。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、適切な方法で処理してください

    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 返信

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 返信

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 返信

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 返信

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 返信

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

  1. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - 返信

  2. 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 返信

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 返信

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 返信

  3. 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 返信

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。 コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 返信

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 返信

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 返信

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 返信

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

  5. 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 返信

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 返信

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

  6. 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットのロジックボード先端に留められた2.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 出入力ボードケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
    • 出入力ボードのケーブルブラケットのロジックボード先端に留められた2.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - 返信

  7. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから出入力ボードコネクターをまっすぐ引き上げます。 出入力ボードケーブルのみこじ開けるようにご注意ください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうことになります。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから出入力ボードコネクターをまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルのみこじ開けるようにご注意ください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうことになります。

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - 返信

  8. 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード側先端を邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。 ケーブルにダメージが入らないように、ケーブルの出入力ボード先端のベントで折り曲げてください。
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード側先端を邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージが入らないように、ケーブルの出入力ボード先端のベントで折り曲げてください。

  9. スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側スピーカーケーブル下に丁寧に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからこのケーブルを押し上げます。 スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側スピーカーケーブル下に丁寧に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからこのケーブルを押し上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の右側スピーカーケーブル下に丁寧に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからこのケーブルを押し上げます。

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - 返信

  10. 上部ケースから右側スピーカーケーブルを取り外します。 上部ケースから右側スピーカーケーブルを取り外します。 上部ケースから右側スピーカーケーブルを取り外します。
    • 上部ケースから右側スピーカーケーブルを取り外します。

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - 返信

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - 返信

  11. 上部ケースに留められた右側スピーカーから次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められた右側スピーカーから次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

  12. 右側のスピーカーをケーブルの先端から持ち上げて、ケースから外します。 右側のスピーカーをケーブルの先端から持ち上げて、ケースから外します。 右側のスピーカーをケーブルの先端から持ち上げて、ケースから外します。
    • 右側のスピーカーをケーブルの先端から持ち上げて、ケースから外します。

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - 返信

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - 返信

  13. スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブル下に差し込み、ロジックボードのソケットからケーブルを持ち上げます。

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 返信

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 返信

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 返信

  14. 今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る

    今あるものを使い続けましょう

    オールインワインキットで安く修理して、節約しましょう。

    iPhone 修理キットを見る
  15. 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められた左側スピーカーより次のネジを外します。

    • 5.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 6.5 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 返信

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 返信

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 返信

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

  16. 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリーから動かし、上部ケースから外します。 ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。 ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。
    • 左側端のスピーカーを持ち上げて、バッテリーから動かし、上部ケースから外します。

    • ケース横にあるネジ穴にスピーカーケーブルを引っかけないようにご注意ください。

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 返信

  17. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - 返信

  18. トラックパッドケーブルをバッテリーから持ち上げて、ケーブルに留められた接着剤を剥がします。 ケーブルにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。簡単にケーブルが剥がれない場合は、 iOpenerやヒートガン、ヘアドライヤーを使って接着剤を温めてから再試行してください。
    • トラックパッドケーブルをバッテリーから持ち上げて、ケーブルに留められた接着剤を剥がします。

    • ケーブルにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。簡単にケーブルが剥がれない場合は、 iOpenerやヒートガン、ヘアドライヤーを使って接着剤を温めてから再試行してください。

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - 返信

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - 返信

  19. 必要に応じて、トラックパッドケーブルコネクターを覆っているテープを剥がします。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上の固定タブを返します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上の固定タブを返します。
    • 必要に応じて、トラックパッドケーブルコネクターを覆っているテープを剥がします。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上の固定タブを返します。

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - 返信

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - 返信

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - 返信

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - 返信

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - 返信

  20. トラックパッドボード上のZIFソケットからキーボードケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げます。 トラックパッドボード上のZIFソケットからキーボードケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げます。
    • トラックパッドボード上のZIFソケットからキーボードケーブルをまっすぐ引き上げます。

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - 返信

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - 返信

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - 返信

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - 返信

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - 返信

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - 返信

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

  21. 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーボードから 3.7 mm T5 トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められたバッテリーボードから 3.7 mm T5 トルクスネジを1本外します。

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - 返信

  22. 液体の接着剤リムーバーはiFixitバッテリー交換キットに含まれています。MacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与える場合があります。
    • 液体の接着剤リムーバーはiFixitバッテリー交換キットに含まれています。MacBook Proのディスプレイの反射防止コートにダメージを与える場合があります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミフォイルシートを挟んでください。

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - 返信

  23. 液体状の接着剤リムーバー付きのiFixitバッテリーキットをお持ちの方は、作業の準備を開始しましょう! 代わりに、iOpenerを温めて開口する方法を利用する方は、次の3つの手順をスキップしてください。
    • 液体状の接着剤リムーバー付きのiFixitバッテリーキットをお持ちの方は、作業の準備を開始しましょう!

    • 代わりに、iOpenerを温めて開口する方法を利用する方は、次の3つの手順をスキップしてください。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

    • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに含まれています)

    • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

    • 保護グローブもキットに含まれています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

  24. 接着剤リムーバーの容器から先端に付いている黒色のキャップを引き抜きます。 アップリケーターの先端を切断する前に、ボトルのキャップを緩めるためひねって取り出します。 これによりボトルのシールが解除され、アプリケーター先端を切断する前に圧力が均等になります。この手順をスキップする場合は、接着剤リムーバーの先端を切断した際に、予期せず飛び散ってしまうことがあります。
    • 接着剤リムーバーの容器から先端に付いている黒色のキャップを引き抜きます。

    • アップリケーターの先端を切断する前に、ボトルのキャップを緩めるためひねって取り出します。

    • これによりボトルのシールが解除され、アプリケーター先端を切断する前に圧力が均等になります。この手順をスキップする場合は、接着剤リムーバーの先端を切断した際に、予期せず飛び散ってしまうことがあります。

    • ハサミを使ってアップリケーターの密封された先端を切断します。

    • 先端を切断する方が、少量の接着剤リムーバーをコントロール良く付けることができます。

    • しっかりとキャップを閉めてください。それから次の手順に移ります。

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - 返信

  25. バッテリーセルの一番右側端の下に均等に接着剤リムーバーを数滴垂らします。
    • バッテリーセルの一番右側端の下に均等に接着剤リムーバーを数滴垂らします。

    • リムーバーは多量に流し込む必要はありません。この小さな接着剤リムーバーのボトルには、全てのバッテリーセルを取り出すのに必要な量の倍が入っています。

    • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

  26. 液体状の接着剤リムーバーをお持ちでない方は、温めた iOpenerを使って上部ケースにバッテリーを固定している接着剤部分を柔らかくします。温まったら丁寧にこじ開けていきます。 温まったiOpenerを使って、バッテリーセルの右側部分半分を覆います。
    • 液体状の接着剤リムーバーをお持ちでない方は、温めた iOpenerを使って上部ケースにバッテリーを固定している接着剤部分を柔らかくします。温まったら丁寧にこじ開けていきます。

    • 温まったiOpenerを使って、バッテリーセルの右側部分半分を覆います。

    • 約1分後、iOpenerを再度温めて、一番右側のバッテリーセルの残り半分を覆います。

  27. プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。両側に留められた接着剤を剥がします。 この手順全体で、ツールでバッテリーにダメージを与えてしまわないようにご注意ください。ダメージの入ったリチウムイオンバッテリーは危険な化学物質が排出されて引火する恐れがあります。作業にはプラスチック製のツールのみご利用ください。 温めたiOpenerを利用する方法の場合は、こじ開ける際にかなりの抵抗力があるかもしれません。その場合は作業を一旦停止してiOpenerを再度温め、該当箇所に載せます。
    • プラスチックカードを一番右側のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込みます。両側に留められた接着剤を剥がします。

    • この手順全体で、ツールでバッテリーにダメージを与えてしまわないようにご注意ください。ダメージの入ったリチウムイオンバッテリーは危険な化学物質が排出されて引火する恐れがあります。作業にはプラスチック製のツールのみご利用ください。

    • 温めたiOpenerを利用する方法の場合は、こじ開ける際にかなりの抵抗力があるかもしれません。その場合は作業を一旦停止してiOpenerを再度温め、該当箇所に載せます。

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

  28. 次のバッテリーセルについても、前の手順を繰り返します。 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それから、液体が浸透して柔らかくなるまで約2−3分間待ちます。 もしくは、必要に応じて iOpenerでこの部分を再度温めます。
    • 次のバッテリーセルについても、前の手順を繰り返します。

    • 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それから、液体が浸透して柔らかくなるまで約2−3分間待ちます。

    • もしくは、必要に応じて iOpenerでこの部分を再度温めます。

    • バッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に約1インチ(2.5㎝)ほどプラスチックカードを差し込み、ゆっくりと接着剤を剥がしながら押し上げます。

  29. プラスチックカードを右側端2つのバッテリーと上部ケースの間に差し込こんだまま、次の作業に移ります。 iOpenerを再度温めて、今度はバッテリーの左側に載せます。 再度、iOpenerを右左端の各バッテリーの上に交代で載せて 約1分間温めます。左右に載せる間、iOpenerを一度温めてください。
    • プラスチックカードを右側端2つのバッテリーと上部ケースの間に差し込こんだまま、次の作業に移ります。

    • iOpenerを再度温めて、今度はバッテリーの左側に載せます。

    • 再度、iOpenerを右左端の各バッテリーの上に交代で載せて 約1分間温めます。左右に載せる間、iOpenerを一度温めてください。

  30. 左右2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから取り出すために上の手順を繰り返します。 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それからセルをこじ開ける前に、液体が浸透するまで約2−3分間待ちます。 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースから左端2つのバッテリーセルを取り出します。
    • 左右2つのバッテリーセルを上部ケースから取り出すために上の手順を繰り返します。

    • 接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それからセルをこじ開ける前に、液体が浸透するまで約2−3分間待ちます。

    • 2枚目のプラスチックカードを使って、上部ケースから左端2つのバッテリーセルを取り出します。

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  31. 引き続き、こじ開ける作業を繰り返します。 プラスチックカードを左端から2番目のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込み、ケースに留められた接着剤を剥がしながら持ち上げます。 プラスチックカードを左端から2番目のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込み、ケースに留められた接着剤を剥がしながら持ち上げます。
    • 引き続き、こじ開ける作業を繰り返します。

    • プラスチックカードを左端から2番目のバッテリーセルと上部ケースの間に差し込み、ケースに留められた接着剤を剥がしながら持ち上げます。

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 返信

  32. 左側2つのバッテリーセルの角の下にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。 温めたiOpenerを使って、中央のバッテリーセルの上に載せます。 前回と同じように、温めたiOpenerを中央バッテリー半分に約1分間載せて、再び温めた後、残り半分のバッテリーに約1分間載せます。
    • 左側2つのバッテリーセルの角の下にプラスチックカードを差し込んだままにします。

    • 温めたiOpenerを使って、中央のバッテリーセルの上に載せます。

    • 前回と同じように、温めたiOpenerを中央バッテリー半分に約1分間載せて、再び温めた後、残り半分のバッテリーに約1分間載せます。

    • 次の手順では、3枚目のカードを使うか、右側端に挿入していたカードを使ってください。右側端の接着剤はすでに乾燥/冷却されているはずで、必要であれば簡単にバッテリーセルを持ち上げることができます。

  33. 接着剤リムーバーを利用している場合は、少量の接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入します。 MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。 作業を続ける前に、接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2–3分間待ちます。
    • 接着剤リムーバーを利用している場合は、少量の接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入します。

    • MacBook Proのどちらか一方を数インチ(5㎝程度)持ち上げると接着剤リムーバーがバッテリーの下で流れ出して広がります。分厚い本やブロックを下に置いて、MacBook Proの作業中安定した土台を作ってください。

    • 作業を続ける前に、接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2–3分間待ちます。

    • プラスチックカードを一番右端2つのバッテリーセルの下に差し込んで持ち上げ、邪魔にならないように折りたたみます。

    • ケースにバッテリーセルを留めている接着剤を剥がすため、カードの約半分まで押し込みます。

    • トラックパッドコントロールボードに接触しないようにご注意ください。カードを接着剤が付けられているロジックボード側に向けて押し込みます。

    • 接着剤が固まるまでカードをそのままに残します。

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - 返信

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015のトラックパッドの交換

    ibash - 返信

  34. 最後に残されたバッテリーセルも同じ作業を繰り返します。 トラックパッドボードに接触しないよう気をつけながら、外側のバッテリーセル2つを片手で持ち、さらに左側中央バッテリーセルの下にプラスチックカード半分を差し込みます。 トラックパッドボードに接触しないよう気をつけながら、外側のバッテリーセル2つを片手で持ち、さらに左側中央バッテリーセルの下にプラスチックカード半分を差し込みます。
    • 最後に残されたバッテリーセルも同じ作業を繰り返します。

    • トラックパッドボードに接触しないよう気をつけながら、外側のバッテリーセル2つを片手で持ち、さらに左側中央バッテリーセルの下にプラスチックカード半分を差し込みます。

  35. 中央右側のバッテリーセルの下に置いたプラスチックカードに戻り、残りのバッテリーを上部ケースから完全に取り出すためにカードを押し込みながらひねります。 ここまでにバッテリーを上部ケースに留めている接着剤を全て剥がしているはずです。この場合、問題なく取り出せます。
    • 中央右側のバッテリーセルの下に置いたプラスチックカードに戻り、残りのバッテリーを上部ケースから完全に取り出すためにカードを押し込みながらひねります。

    • ここまでにバッテリーを上部ケースに留めている接着剤を全て剥がしているはずです。この場合、問題なく取り出せます。

    • 簡単に取り出せない場合は、iOpener を再度温めて付着している部分に載せてください。それからプラスチックカードを差し込み、接着剤を剥がします。

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - 返信

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - 返信

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - 返信

  36. バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。
    • バッテリーを上部ケースから取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

    • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

    • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

    • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

    • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。バッテリーの配置やフィット感を丁寧に確認してください。それから接着剤に留められたフィルムを剥がして、バッテリーをしっかりと装着します。もしオリジナルのバッテリーには付いていなかった追加のフィルム/ライナーがある場合は、これらを最後に取ってください。

    • この修理ガイドを完成したら、新しく装着したバッテリーのカリブレーションを行なってください。100%になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100%まで充電します。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - 返信

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - 返信

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - 返信

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - 返信

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - 返信

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - 返信

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - 返信

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - 返信

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - 返信

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - 返信

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - 返信

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - 返信

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - 返信

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - 返信

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - 返信

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - 返信

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - 返信

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - 返信

  37. トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している10個の2.8mm T3ネジを取り外してください。
    • トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している10個の2.8mm T3ネジを取り外してください。

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

  38. トラックパッドのカバープレートを取り外してください。
    • トラックパッドのカバープレートを取り外してください。

  39. トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している12個の2.4mm T5ネジを取り外してください。
    • トラックパッドを上部ケースに固定している12個の2.4mm T5ネジを取り外してください。

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - 返信

  40. 上部ケースからトラックパッドを持ち上げて取り外してください。 上部ケースからトラックパッドを持ち上げて取り外してください。 上部ケースからトラックパッドを持ち上げて取り外してください。
    • 上部ケースからトラックパッドを持ち上げて取り外してください。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシュートのヘルプには、アンサーコミュニティを参照してください。

49 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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I would not recommend doing this.. The MBP 13" trackpad with force touch requires to be calibrated after assembly which may result in unresponsive behaviour, but other than that nice tutorial! :)

Samuel - 返信

Hi! What about keeping the trackpad but only replacing the top case (because I spilled alcohol on my keyboard)... Would I need to calibrate it as well?

caion11 -

I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together

David Chin -

Is there a way to get a calibration software somehow ? Is Apple offering paid calibration service and what is the cost?

Windcatcher - 返信

I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together.

No software needed

David Chin -

If you do this yourself, Apple will not touch your laptop with a 10-foot pole, you will have voided any existing warranty. They would require you to purchase a new trackpad from them and they will install/calibrate it themselves

MacAmbulance - 返信

Can you only replace the control board of the trackpad ?

Gilliano - 返信

I don’t think they sell the control board separate from the trackpad panel - comes soldered together

David Chin -

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. “ Ah, yes, because now that the adhesive on the battery has been removed it should apparently still work! What a dumb reassembly instruction. You don’t sell the adhesive strips on their own either.

Michael Rasmussen - 返信

This is a valid point, sir. I recently had to replace the battery and in going through that process realized once the battery was finally freed from the bondage of adhesive that was remarkably overboard for securing a battery in a laptop, there it was… access to the trackpad. All that was stopping me were those 10, I repeat 10! Torx! Screws! that were yet a different size than the majorrity of the torx screws securing other components. I never did venture further as I was ready to be finished, the task at hand had proved to be arduous enough. It does give one a good perspective however this mother &&^&@* is NOT an easy to repair laptop. While the potential exists for many of the components to be replaced, it certainly isn’t a cake walk.

eeM Gee -

Worked like a charm! In my case I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

My wifes MAC was already out of warranty, and the official authorized service in Slovakia asked 480 € for replacement of the whole trackpad, battery, keyboard and topcase. So I bought the flex from eBay, replaced it myself and fixed it for just 15 €. Really really HUGE THANKS for this repair guide

Brachaci Brachacovsky - 返信

I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

Thx for this comment! Laptop fully functional again.

Symptoms I noticed:

- first my touchpad didn’t work during login (1 or 2 times), but did after logging in (keyboard still worked)

- later my touchpad and keyboard didn’t work (“no keyboard connected“ warning), even after logging in with usb keyboard

Tjen Wellens -

I just finished! It had a million screws! Ok, so first of all there is NO adjustment needed for the haptic feedback. Works perfect. This is for the LATE 2015 13.3” MacBook Pro retina. I did not use the microwave heat thing nor did I use the adhesive remover liquid. I used a two inch paint spatula and slid it under the battery one at a time extremely slow and carefully lifted each battery from the edge and let the adhesive slowly separate as I i pried it up. The batteries did not tear but the adhesive was not reusable. I used double sided tape when I put them back in. Be prepared and make sure you have all three screw drivers before you begin. One last thing, I had to go back to the store three times because I kept ruining the screw driver heads. These screws are so tiny and in there really good in some places. The screws won’t strip but the screw driver sure will. Push down hard and don’t tighten to hard!

Erik - 返信

I had to only do apart of this tutorial, which was to replace the trackpad cable, because my keyboard and mouse stopped working the other night. Very simple and this was very helpful. Like many others have found that most replacement cables are a little longer than the originals but I just gently bent the cable along with the contours of the plastic and other pieces that it sat on top of.

Bradley Clampitt - 返信

Followed the tutorial, worked perfectly. However, now my keyboard stopped working (the trackpad is ok now). Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?

Bert Van Wassenhove - 返信

How are we supposed to glue the battery back together? Should we heat it up to activate the adhesive strip, I tried it and it worked only weakly….

Should we use super glue?

benjamin parpillon - 返信

As a general rule, you shouldn’t re-use the battery once it has been removed—you want to replace it with a new one. The battery isn’t designed to be removed and can easily get damaged in the process. Reinstalling it afterward puts your MacBook at risk and may be a fire hazard. Remove the battery, remove the old adhesive as instructed, and replace it with a new one. The replacement battery should have new adhesive pre-installed, so there’s no need for any super glue. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Does the trackpad replacement requires that the battery also should be replaced? I have a crackling sound under the trackpad. Genius mentioned that the circuitry attached to the trackpad is making sound because of the spill. I would like to know if i should by battery and the trackpad and replace both or just trackpad with all the tools.

Thank you

Kartik Shah - 返信

Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?

The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.

For example;

T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.

Here is the replacement part I bought.

Thanks,

Monsieur Bond - 返信

Hello all, this is the first time I’m typing anything beyond the basic tests after replacing my trackpad cable. It wouldn’t have seemed obvious to me, but after going to the Apple store to investigate my ‘keyboard not working’ issues, they reported that I might, first, try replacing the trackpad cable. For $80 U.S. they’d order and install the cable for me, <fingers crossed>. I Decided I’d rather do that myself. I ordered the part from fixit for $10 plus $5 shipping (and some stickers too) and put my two specialty screwdrivers, spudger and finesse top the test. Other than skipping from Step 3 to 17, my keyboard worked right after I powered back up. Super happy with fixit. Thanks for making this site, thanks Andrew for making this page, thanks everyone else for commenting. Can we make sure there’s a way to let people who are trying to resolve the KEYBOARD NOT WORKING issue might actually be a try-replacing-the-trackpad-cable SOLUTION?

thanks again, Brandt

Brandt Sennhenn - 返信

I would start off replacing the cable then you’ll likely need a new touchpad if that fails to fix things.

Dan -

Hi, my trackpad isn’t vibrating, do i need to replace only the cable or replace the trackpad with new one?

anakin skywalker - 返信

You need a new touchpad unit

Dan -

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