はじめに
このガイドを参照して、ロジックボードを交換しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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底ケースと上部ケースを留めている次のネジを10本外します。
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2.3 mm P5ペンタロープネジー2本
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3.0 mm P5 ペンタロープネジー8本
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この作業中、外した各ネジの管理を安全に行ってください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスのダメージを防ぐため、正しい位置に装着してください。
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バッテリーボードに装着されているプラスチックカバーを外します。
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ピンセットを使って、バッテリーコネクターボードの右側底付近にある小さいプラスチックカバーを取り出します。
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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ピンセットでインターポーザーを掴みます。
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インターポーザーをロジックボードから引き上げて外します。
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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ロジックボードに留められたヒートシンクから次のネジを外します。
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2.4 mm #00プラスネジー1本
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3.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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2.7 mm T5トルクスネジー4本
Hi,
found 4 rubber spacers on the 4 2,5mm screws
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、iSightカメラのケーブルコネクターをまっすぐロジックボード上のソケットから持ち上げます。
Bummer. It wasn’t clearly communicated how to separate this connector, and I accidentally pried the socket from the board. The connector slides out horizontally, so don’t pry up from the bottom.
Yes. That's a tricky little guy! I'm very lucky that I didn't break it! I couldn't figure out which direction to 'walk' it, but after reading the comments above it became more clear. When I first started trying to detach it I was trying to lift it up like all the previous connections. It was giving too much resistance, so I put the magnifying glass over the picture and then the connection. Back and forth I was looking. My hand slipped. I thought I broke it! But I saw that it had moved 'backwards' a bit. Then it became clear on which way to 'walk' it. It moves back in the direction of the cable it's connected to. It slides in like the newer fuses do in a car. A neat little learning experience! Thank you folks who add comments and to the people who put this directorial together.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側のファンリボンケーブルのZIF ソケット上にある固定フラップを持ち上げます。
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右側のファンリボンケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。
Hey! You skipped a step!
What about the cable (don't know what it does) that runs right across the fan, interfering with pulling the fan out.
It's still in place in Step 14, but here in Step 15 it's magically removed itself, and can be seen resting luxuriously on top of the Airport card.
How do we get that outta there?
Like @victorgav mention, Just need a step before this one, which is to remove the cable that goes across the top of the fan.
Thanks for bringing this up! It looks like the guide was missing the iSight cable disconnection steps. I’ve added the missing steps.
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前の手順を繰り返して、Trackpadリボンケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
I discovered that if the trackpad cable is damaged the keyboard will not work. I replaced the trackpad cable which had two damaged Ribbon pens. Once TP cable was replaced the keyboard also worked!
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ロジックボードの端を慎重に掴み(出入力ポートと反対側)、上部ケースからロジックボードを持ち上げます。
When re-installing the Logic board, be careful not to trap any of ZIF cables under the board.
You’ll need to tilt the board up from the end away from the DC-IN board in order to get the IO connectors inserted all the way. Be careful with the little fingers on top of the IO connectors.
I had previously replaced the battery with the Newer Tech battery. The battery cable is not as flexible as the original battery, making the removal and insertion of the trackpad cable difficult.
Jay Seaman - 返信
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ロジックボードが残ります。
Removing worked fine........ Followed every step carefully.... Getting another board in will be another chapter.... And hopefully the machine will work again.
Thank you ifixit.......
Yes! I just finished. Yay!! Couldn't have done it without this tutorial, so Thank you very much!!! I think installing the new one will be more difficult. I could have just went out and bought a new one, but this has been much more fun!
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
32 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
コメント 1 件
NOTE: The logic boards you are placing into your Macbook Pro as a replacement probably are not coming from systems that are current and actively being used (they may have been on the shelf for a while)…more importantly they are almost certainly not coming from systems that were fully updated and running MacOS High Sierra. Realize that if you have updated your Macbook and are running High Sierra, your hard drive has been converted to the latest APFS Apple file system. In order for an older logic board to be able to read any of your APFS hard drive will require that the logic board gets the latest SMC/firmware updates. Without this you will not be able to boot from your hard drive. See how I was able to correct this dilemma here: Hard Drive/OS not recognized after logic board replacement
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - 返信
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - 返信
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - 返信