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MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換

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  1. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 下部ケース: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    この手順で使用する道具:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    購入する
    • 作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を落として下さい。ディスプレイを閉じ柔らかい表面の上に置いてください。

    • P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースをはずしてください。ネジは次の長さに分かれます。

    • 9mm ネジー 2本

    • 2.6mm ネジー 8本

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 返信

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 返信

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 返信

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 返信

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 返信

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 返信

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 返信

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 返信

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 返信

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 返信

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 返信

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - 返信

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - 返信

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - 返信

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - 返信

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - 返信

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - 返信

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 返信

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - 返信

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - 返信

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - 返信

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - 返信

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - 返信

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - 返信

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - 返信

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - 返信

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - 返信

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - 返信

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - 返信

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - 返信

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - 返信

  2. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイと下部ケースの間に指を入れ、上に引っ張って下部ケースを本体から外します。

    • 下部ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 返信

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 返信

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - 返信

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - 返信

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - 返信

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - 返信

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - 返信

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - 返信

  3. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • アクシデントで放電や感電を防ぐために、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクタを外してください。

    • バッテリコネクタに付いている透明なプラスチック製のプルタブをつかみ、Airの前端に向かって引っ張り、ロジックボードからバッテリの接続を外します。

    • コネクタをバッテリー側に向けて水平に引っ張ってください。ロジックボード上のソケットにダメージを与えてしまうため、Air本体から上に引っぱらないでください。

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - 返信

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - 返信

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM - 返信

  4. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, I/Oボードケーブル: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットからI/Oボードケーブルのコネクタを上向きに跳ね上げます。

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - 返信

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - 返信

    This is ridiculous.

    From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.

    AnnoniMoose - 返信

    I am glad I saw your comment. This saved me a lot of time and allowed me to miss many points of failure. thanks.

    norsk4sure -

  5. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • ファン上部からI/Oボードケーブルを慎重に剥がします。

  6. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 2
    • 次のコネクタには特にソケットが深くなっています。慎重に、ソケットから外してください。

    • I / Oボードケーブルをロジックボードとの接続付近に向けて慎重に引き上げて、スパッジャーの先端を使ってコネクタの両側を上向きにソケットから引き抜きます。

    • I / Oボードケーブルを取り出します。

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - 返信

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - 返信

  7. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, ファン: 手順 7、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ファンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、蝶番になった固定フラップのみを持ち上げているか確認してください。

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - 返信

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - 返信

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - 返信

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - 返信

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - 返信

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - 返信

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - 返信

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol - 返信

    Quick note, when u install the new fan, i inserted the ribbon cable back in the zif socket first with a pair of tweezers then screw the fan back in.

    robdroby - 返信

    I see comments suggesting not to remove the ribbon cable. This would work. Simply flip the fan like the page of a book, from right to left, thereby getting it out of the way while you remove the i/o board. Flip it from left to right when you reinstall. This approach would save some frustration, as it is a challenge to reinsert that tiny ribbon into position.

    If you do remove the ribbon, reinsert it before repositioning the fan. That will give you more play as to fiddle with the ribbon.

    Mark - 返信

  8. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    • ファンの上部にゴム製ガスケットを留めている接着剤を剥がします。

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - 返信

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - 返信

    Should I put some adhesive back when reasembling?

    Marco - 返信

  9. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースにファンを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジ(短頭)ー1本

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - 返信

    I just replaced the the i/o board and it went fine, but I think I broke the screw holder on the top left side of the fan, and now can get the screw out - the computer still runs - i was wonder can I get a way with that one screw not holding it down?

    ilarkin1 - 返信

    Same here. The screw socket was broken for the 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw. Is there a way to re-solder the socket? Or support the fan. It’s making a horrible noise now :(

    Jason - 返信

  10. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 10、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースからファンを持ち上げて、ファンのリボンケーブルをソケットから引き出し、Air本体から取り出します。

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - 返信

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - 返信

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - 返信

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - 返信

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - 返信

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - 返信

    So I did the replacement according to this guide, with a replacement fan purchased from iFixit, and the fan would not spin even under heavy load! I took out the fan, and noticed that there was quite a lot of resistance when I spun the blades manually. It turns out, the fan was slightly squashed flat near the vent so that the resulting friction prevented the blades from spinning free. I un-squashed the fan, re-installed it, and the fan is spinning! The moral of the story is to make sure the blades can spin free when installing a new fan.

    Hiroshi - 返信

    On reassembly, I found it hard to reinsert this ribbon cable, so did step 11 again. I disconnected the I/O board, connected the fan and snapped the retainer down on the ribbon cable, then undid step 11 (ie. I connected the I/O board again). As others have said, a brilliant step-by-step guide, and slloeing comments is a great idea too.

    Jim Henderson - 返信

    nice! Congrats!

    Luis -

  11. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, I/O ボード: 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ケーブルを引き抜いて、I/O ボードの接続を外します。

    • Airの右側端側のロジックボードの表面と平行にケーブルを引き抜きます。

    You can skip the following five steps if you are just trying to remove the logic board—the I/O board can stay put, and it won’t hinder logic board removal.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

  12. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • I / Oボード表面と平行にカメラケーブルをAirのヒンジ側に向けて引き抜いてソケットから切り離します。スパッジャーの先端を使って、コネクタをソケットから押し出します。

    • このケーブルを外すときに、ケーブルを上向きに持ち上げないでください。ソケットがロジックボードを破損する可能性があります。

    Use the corner of the flat edge of a spudger to push alternately on the metal ears to help disconnect the cable.

    peteragries - 返信

    And when reinstalling, push the metal ears from behind to snap the connector back into the socket

    peteragries - 返信

    In my model (model identifier: MacBookAir6,2), the camera cable connector was found located on the logic board.

    Kuro Kurosaka - 返信

  13. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットから左側スピーカーケーブルコネクタを持ち上げて外します。

    • ワイヤーの下から持ち上げてください。

    Don’t use a spludger!!!!! Use tweezers or a super thin flat head. Spludger is too thick…

    Jared Thiel - 返信

    Well, dangit. I used a spludger, and now I’ve got two gold wires just hangin’ out. Think it’s salvageable?

    jeff elrod -

    If you have 2 ‘gold wires’ hanging out (assuming that you’re referring to the connectors and not bare wires!), you’ll have to inspect them under ‘high’ magnification (40x loupe would do) and make sure the tabs are propped out so that when you plug them back into the connector they’ll grab the connector (and don’t slip out when you attempt to plug the connector in). Inspect the connector to see what orientation to insert the connector plugs in. Mate the tabs on the plug with the surface opening on the plastic connector housing.

    anonymous 6745 - 返信

    I used a pair of tweezers. One (tweezer) end under the plastic connector, then squeezed the other (tweezer) on top of the plastic connector. Gently wiggled up and down and the connector easily popped out.

    Mark Kilpatrick - 返信

  14. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、マイクロフォンリボンケーブルをI/Oボードに留めている固定フラップを跳ね上げます。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、I/Oボード上のZIFコネクタから音量ボタンのリボンケーブルを取り外します。

    This is throwing me for a loop. It won't fit back in. Are the volume and mic cable the same cable?

    david nieto - 返信

    Use the tip of the spudger on the plastic ear at the back of the connector (the ear is on the battery side), to push the connector out of the socket.

    peteragries - 返信

    This step (14) appears to use two different names for the same cable: microphone ribbon cable and volume button ribbon cable. This is confusing because the photos appear to show only a single cable being disconnected from a ZIF socket.

    sjosefw - 返信

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap bounced ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol - 返信

    I found it was easier to perform removal of the cable until step 16 when I was removing the I/O board.

    Mark Kilpatrick - 返信

  15. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 15、 1の画像 1
    • I/Oボードを上部ケースに固定している4.0mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    On reassembly, it's good to line up the screwhole in the corner of this board with the hole below it, so the fan screw can be replaced properly.

    Jim Henderson - 返信

  16. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 16、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードに一番近い端から I/Oボードを慎重に持ち上げて、上部ケースから取り出します。

    Be careful when reassembling the I/O board. The USB and headphone jacks should be oriented well, otherwise USB dongles won’t fit even if it looks well adjusted.

    Berkin Birol - 返信

  17. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, バッテリー: 手順 17、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーを上部ケースに固定している次の5本のネジを外します。

    • 6.3mm T5トルクスネジ 3本

    • 2.4mm T5トルクスネジ 2本

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - 返信

  18. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 18、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリー取り外す際は、4つのリチウムポリマーセルを握ったり触らないでください。

    • バッテリーをロジックボードに近い端から持ち上げて、上部ケースから取り出します。

  19. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーもしくは指先を使って、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。

    • トラックパッドリボンケーブルを、Airのフロントエッジ側に向けてソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - 返信

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - 返信

  20. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライトリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げているか確認してください。

    • スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからケーブルを引き抜きます。

  21. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 21、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから右側スピーカーケーブルのコネクタを外します。

    • ケーブルの下からこじ開けます。

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - 返信

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - 返信

    Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.

    Mark Kilpatrick - 返信

  22. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 2 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに付けられた黒いプラスチックのフラップ下に慎重に押し込んで、ロックを上方に持ち上げてソケットから外します。

    • ロックをソケットから離しながら、スパッジャーの先端と指を使って、ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをゆっくりと外します。

    • デイスプレイデーターケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。ソケットがロジックボードから外れてしまう可能性があります。

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - 返信

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.

    Mark Kilpatrick - 返信

  23. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、アンテナケーブルコネクタをAirPort/Bluetoothカード上のソケットから持ち上げて、外します。

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - 返信

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - 返信

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - 返信

  24. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 24、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナケーブルを、ロジックボードに付いているスロットの溝から解いて外します。

  25. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 25、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードにSSDを固定している2.85mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

  26. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 26、 2の画像 2
    • ソケットにダメージを与えないように、SSDの先端を過度に持ち上げないでください。

    • ドライブをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜き、ロジックボードから外します。

    • SSDを再装着する際は、ネジを締める前に正しい位置に取り付けているか確認してください。

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - 返信

  27. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 27、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードを上部ケースに固定している6.3mmT5トルクスネジを6本外します。

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - 返信

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - 返信

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - 返信

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - 返信

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - 返信

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 返信

  28. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 28、 1の画像 1
    • 左側クラッチのヒンジとアンテナケーブルリテイナーを上部ケースに固定している内側の4.9mmT8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 返信

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 返信

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - 返信

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - 返信

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - 返信

    Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.

    Mark Kilpatrick - 返信

  29. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 29、 1の画像 1
    • アンテナケーブルのリテイナーをわずかに押し出して、上部ケースにヒートシンクの先端を固定している3mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - 返信

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - 返信

  30. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 30、 1の画像 1
    • 慎重に上部ケースからロジックボードアセンブリを取り出します。ケーブルが絡まっていないかご注意ください。

    • ロジックボード先端のヒートシンクを、上部ケースから持ち上げる際に、作業の邪魔にならないようアンテナケーブルを離してください。

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - 返信

    Removal of logic board and all the steps leading up to it I found unnecessary. They may be good for some but I really didn't need to dismantle the laptop as much as this guide shows to get the display off. Just my opinion, of course.

    Kevin Ginther - 返信

  31. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, ディスプレイアセンブリ: 手順 31、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに刻まれた溝からアンテナケーブルを慎重に巻き戻して外します。

  32. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 32、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに右側ディスプレイヒンジを固定している、内側の4.9mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 先の手順で役立つため、意図的に3つ目のネジは残しておきます。

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 返信

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

    Thanks,

    sev7en - 返信

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 返信

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - 返信

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - 返信

    My tip is to open the case so the screen is 90º to the base and then lay the MBA down with the keyboard on the work surface with the screen hanging down the front of your work bench. This makes it much easier to work with and reassembly is much easier.

    If you follow this tip, go ahead and take all the remaining four hinge screws out now. You can now easily lift off the lid and set it aside. Now skip to step 36.

    Reassembly Hint: Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - 返信

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws and then to replace those 2 screws when re-assembling.

    Andrew Gordon - 返信

  33. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 33、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイが上部ケースと直角になるまで開いて、画像のようにテーブル上に配置します。

    • Airをしっかりと固定しながら、下側ディスプレイのブラケットから残りの4.9mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - 返信

  34. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 34、 1の画像 1
    • 最後のディスプレイのネジを外す前に、もう一方の手でディスプレイと上部ケースをしっかりと持ってください。 コンポーネントをテーブル上に落下させてしまうと、高額修理となる損傷を引き起こす可能性があります。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを固定している、最後の4.9mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

  35. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 35、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースをディスプレイアセンブリ側にわずかに押し出して、ディスプレイアセンブリ前面から取り出します。

    • 2つのディスプレイヒンジが上部ケースより解放されたら、ディスプレイを取り出して、安全な場所に保管します。

    Reassembly Hint: My tip is to lay bottom case with the keyboard on the work surface with the rear edge hanging over the front of your work bench. Approach with the screen side of the lid facing the workbench and 90º to it. Lower the screen hinges into place. This makes it much easier to work with and reassemble.

    *

    Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - 返信

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws or to replace those 2 screws

    Andrew Gordon - 返信

  36. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 上部ケース: 手順 36、 3の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 上部ケース: 手順 36、 3の画像 2 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 上部ケース: 手順 36、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、上部ケースに右側スピーカーを固定している接着剤を剥がしてこじ開けます。

    • 上部ケースから右側スピーカーを取り出します。

  37. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 2 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 37、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、上部ケースに留められた接着剤を剥がして、左側スピーカーを持ち上げます。

    • 上部ケースから左側スピーカーを取り外します。

  38. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 38、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、上部ケースの左側からマイクロフォンをこじ開けて外します。

    • 上部ケースからマイクロフォンを取り出します。

    • 上部ケースが残ります。

    My microphone appears slightly different, featuring a ribbon cable which is difficult to re-route when re-assembling.

    Under no circumstances try to pull the microphone out using any pulling motion on the cable, as the microphone assembly will come apart in two pieces (as mine did), and will most likely not function on re-assembly (as mine doesn't).

    Goth70 Fuzed - 返信

    Note: No need to do this for keyboard replacement.

    anonymous 6745 - 返信

    Note 2: My replacement case came with the microphone installed, so check your case. You might not need to do this step.

    Josh - 返信

  39. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 上部ケース: 手順 39、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換, 上部ケース: 手順 39、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使って、トラックパッドリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。

    • ソケットではなく、蝶番で動く固定フラップのみを跳ね上げているか確認してください。

    • Airの後端に向けて、ソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルをまっすぐ引き抜きます。

  40. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • キーボードリボンケーブルを片手で慎重に持ち上げながら、スパッジャーの先端または指の爪を使用して、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケットの固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ヒンジのついた固定フラップをこじ開けてください。ソケット自体に接触しないでください。

    • キーボードリボンケーブルをソケットからAirの前面端側にむけてまっすぐ引き抜きます。

    I was hoping there would be a way to take the keyboard apart after step 41. I have a shorted power switch I was hoping to try and clean. $250 to replace the upper case on a Mac that's worth $550 if working and $250 as parts doesn't make sense. Super fun to take this apart though!

    allison - 返信

    i need just to try to clean the keyboard cable socket, i need to follow all 40 steps or i can jump something?

    dav - 返信

  41. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 41、 1の画像 1
    • 次の7本のネジを外します。

    • 上部ケースにトラックパッドを固定している1.6mm プラスネジ−6本

    • 上部ケースの前面端付近のホールからT5 トルクスセットネジー1本

    • 再組み立ての際は、セットネジを締めすぎないでください。ボタンは特定のポイントでクリックを停止します。 トラックパッドの可動側の遊びが最小になるまで、ネジを調整します。

    I found that the solo T5 for step 41 can be stripped easily. I used a T6 bit making sure to press down firmly before unscrewing.

    Christopher Fernandes - 返信

    I also used a T6 at this step.

    lyllo_rj -

    I think these are phillips #000. I tried a cheap eye-glass repair phillips on these with little luck. I ended having to buy a $26 craftsman set to get a #000 phillips, but what a difference it made.

    elijahbuck - 返信

    This is the info I needed! Thanks.

    forestsprite -

    Note: No need to do this for keyboard replacement.

    anonymous 6745 - 返信

    In replacing the palmrest / top case with keyboard & speakers already attached, undoing these 6 screws off the trackpad were by far the most difficult step. Mine were sooo tight in.

    Tips to avoid stripping the heads & not being able to get them out without drilling them out :-

    1 use the magnifier on your phone in one hand while gently testing the size & capability of your screw driver. I ended up using one I had for an iPhone 4s -don’t no size but it looked small enough to be 00 or 000.

    2 while still using magnifier go gently but firmly while looking for it slipping out then release & apply pressure on the turn & repeat this until it starts to turn.

    3 if really tight like mine I did the old mechanics trick of using a “Manchester Spanner” (hammer) to dislodge rusty bolts/screws. While the tip of driver is in the cross correctly (use a magnifier) tap the top of driver with something as form as you dare - I used an egg cup as that was to hand!. My screen was not attached at this point!

    4 still use magnifier when replacing screws

    nijafe - 返信

  42. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2012 上部ケースの交換: 手順 42、 1の画像 1
    • キーボードに最も近いトラックパッドの端を、上部ケースに取り付けられているブラケットから持ち上げて、上部ケースのくぼみから注意深く持ち上げます。

    • 上部ケースからトラックパッドを取り出します。

    • 上部ケースが残ります。

終わりに

デバイスを再組立する際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

62 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

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9 件のコメント

On step 41 the 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw remember that this screw does not come out. I was racking my brain for like 30 minutes and realized that this screw is not and can not be removed, rather it's just used to adjust the sensitivity of the clicking on the mouse pad.

dtlam76 - 返信

I got mine out, but it was unnecessary for the procedure. You're right that it doesn't hold anything down really.

lionfish -

I had a Torx 6 in order to not strip the screw...

jan szubert -

I spilt liquid on my MacBook Air and luckily only busted the keyboard, mainly the power and right arrow key buttons.

I purchased the uppercase from iFixit and it is a good quality part. The install took about 45 minutes, but there was a good hour of troubleshooting afterwards. See my comment on connecting the I/O connector cable above.

After doing any sort of hardware install, especially one as extensive as this, run the Apple Hardware Test application by holding down the D button while booting. It looks at a range of issues that you might miss (like a fan that doesn't spin!) that could cause you problems down the track.

Happy repairs.

Ben - 返信

This was an awesome and clearly understandable guide, helped by color-coded circles for the various screw sizes! I disassembled, replaced the top and keyboard and reassembled in less than an hour, with my son watching over my shoulder. Well done!

Zac Imboden - 返信

Overall a great repair guide. Upon completion, my MacBook Pro 13” mid-2012 did not recognize the battery. The laptop powered on as soon as the power adapter was connected. I tried resetting the SMC (shift-option-command-power) and the PRAM (boot with option-command-P-R) several times without result. I also noted that pushing the battery indicator failed to display any charge on the battery.

Before buying a replacement battery and a Mag-Safe DC in module, I inspected the DC power module and saw a “solder bridge” joining the two left-most PC board posts. The “solder bridge” turned out to be a thread of dust that remained after cleaning. The spudger easily dislodged the dirt.

Apparently, if was enough to befuddle communications with the battery, as the MBP booted on battery power after reassembly. A quick check of the System Report’s Battery Information revealed an old-but healthy battery, where previously it showed 0 charge and no battery connected. I learned a dirty logic board is not a good thing. RG

Rick Gier - 返信

For complete keyboard removal, after unscrewing the outer screws (and with the replacement keyboard on hand) tear out the black plastic sheet along with the thin metal plate and keys all at once. Warning: bits of rivets will fly everywhere! (Preventable by taping them down before you tear out). Any remaining rivers can be “chiseled” out with an automatic center punch (available on Amazon or local hardware store).

Note: it’s worth it to buy a replacement keyboard that includes the LED backlit film and screws you’ll need to attach the new keyboard back on. This way you don’t have to try to save the thin black film from the old one, plus you’ll certainly need the screws to replace the rivets you just tore out.

anonymous 6745 - 返信

Really great guide and the colour coded circles around certain screws was a great touch.

Alex Seltsikas - 返信

What do people do about the items that had adhesive for securing them? Like the microphone, for example. After removal there was no adhesive left and it won’t stay in the new top case. Glue? What kind?

Curtis Kline - 返信

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