はじめに
このガイドを参照して、MacBook Air 13インチ Retina Display 2019のバッテリーを交換します。
ダメージを軽減するために、作業を始める前にMacBookの電源を入れてバッテリーを完全に放電してください。 充電したリチウムイオンバッテリーは、アクシデントで穴を開けてしまうと大変危険です。バッテリーが膨張している場合は、 適切な方法で処理してください。
必要な工具と部品
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MacBookにBig Sur v11.1以降がインストールされている場合、自動起動を無効にするとうまくいかないことがあります。通常通りに作業を進めることができますが、開口できたらすぐにバッテリーを外してください。
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P5ドライバーを使って、次のネジを外します。
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7.9mmネジー2本
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7.1mmネジー2本
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2.6mmネジー6本
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指先をディスプレイと下部ケースの間に挟んで、Airから下部ケースを上向きに引き上げます。
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下部ケースを取り出します。
Are there any suggestions to removing the pressure fasteners more easily?
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スパッジャーを使って、バッテリーコネクタの下に差し込み、ロジックボードと並行にスライドして、ロジックボード上のソケットからコネクタを外します。
Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.
This seems like an important step?
Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?
What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?
Iron05 -
I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.
All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!
I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!
It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.
Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).
Where is the gold button? I replaced my battery and my laptop will not start
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ピンセットを使用して、右側スピーカーの下部にある黒い接着プルタブを指で掴める程度に持ち上げます。
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接着ストリップのプルタブをつかみ、ゆっくりと慎重に接着ストリップをスピーカーの下から引き抜きます。
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接着ストリップが壊れた場合、そのままにして、次の手順に進みます。
What do you do to get the speaker to stick once you put things back together? Are these adhesive strips reusable? If not, where can we get new ones?
The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.
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スパッジャーの先端を右側スピーカーケーブルの下にスライドして、スピーカーの接続をまっすぐ持ち上げます。
Broke both speaker connectors by spudging straight up. Looks like they should slide apart like a normal zif.
Pulled straight up and broke both connectors.
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ピンセットを使って、右側スピーカー上部の接着プルタブを持ち上げて、指でタブを掴める高さで止めます。
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接着ストリップのプルタブをつかみ、ゆっくりと接着ストリップをスピーカーの下から引き抜きます。
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スピーカーに熱を当てて、この下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。
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スパッジャーまたは開口ピックをスピーカーの下に注意深くスライドさせ、接着剤を剥がします。
This business of pulling the adhesive out (here and with the batteries) - at first it seems impossible, but persevere. Pull it really, really, slowly - it extends to around 30cm before it's all out. I applied a bit of heat with a heat gun (at least with the batteries) and after a few failed attempts got the hang of it. When it works, it's like magic and very satisfying, and much better than giving up and prising the part off with the adhesive in place.
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右側スピーカーを底側からまっすぐ持ち上げて、取り出します。
Step 5 the right speaker adhesive broken while removing, other end adhesive slipped out ok. But it's extremely hard to now lift up the battery, feels like I break something if I try harder.
handsonmac - 返信
This is not as easy as it sounds. Neither adhesive strip broke, but that bugger resists removal, because it is attached with adhesive tape to the bottom. Use different angles of attack to pry it up with steady force.
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ピンセットを使用して、左側スピーカーの下部にある黒い接着プルタブを指で掴める程度に持ち上げます。
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接着ストリップのプルタブをつかみ、ゆっくりと慎重に接着ストリップをスピーカーの下から引き抜きます。
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接着ストリップが壊れた場合、そのままにして、次の手順に進みます。
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、トラックパッドコネクタのブラケットを固定している1.4mmネジを2本外します。
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トラックパッドコネクタのブラケットを取り出します。
My machine used T4 screws
Me too! I tried with T3 and it wasn’t working.
I stripped my screws trying to get them out with a t3 driver...
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左側スピーカーの接続が外れている場合は、この手順をスキップしてください。
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スパッジャーの先端を左側スピーカーケーブルの下にスライドしてまっすぐ持ち上げ、スピーカーの接続を外します。
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コネクタの接続が外れたら、スパッジャーの平面側先端をケーブルの下にスライドして、ケーブルとロジックボードを固定している接着剤を剥がします。
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T3トルクスドライバーを使って、USB-Cポートコネクタブラケットを固定している1.3mmネジを2本外します。
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USB-Cコネクタのブラケットを取り出します。
There is no need to remove the logic board!!
Skip steps 16 through 28 and go to step 29 to release the trackpad cable from the battery. then follow steps to 30 through 33 to release the battery. The battery can be removed by slipping it counter-clockwise under the trackpad cable. The new battery can be slipped in place in the same way.
Much easier!!
josephgray - 返信
Removing a few of the logic board screws allowed me to get the to right screw bracket under the logic board to give enough clearance as w98fxr mentioned.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、USB-Cケーブルのコネクタを持ち上げて、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外します。
please reconsider removing the logic board and and usb-c connector as is recommended in the prior step. i had a very difficult time reconnecting the usb-c connector
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T3トルクスドライバを使って、アンテナケーブルブラケットを固定している1.4mmネジを2本外します。
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アンテナケーブルブラケットを取り出します。
These are T4 screws
The MBA I just finished with were T3. I'm fairly confident with my tools as I recently updated/upgraded nearly my entire set with WiHa. I should also mention the many tools acquired from iFixit over the years have all been were exceptional lasting years. There's no doubt iFixit would have been my source but a close friend went to work for WiHa. His discount(s) & being motivated to help him was a major impact. For anyone not having such an advantage IMHO tools from iFixit are one of the best values anywhere. Let's not forget; buying from iFixit will also help to push "Right to Repair" forward. Here in Minnesota Right to repair ALMOST PASSED. Many believe it will become law during the next session! I can't tell you how proud this would make me. I would obtain as many service manuals as possible and post them all online!!! What a great dream...
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スパッジャーの先端を、コネクタに近いアンテナケーブルの一つの下に差し込みんで外します。
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もう片側のアンテナケーブルにも同じ作業を繰り返します。
Be SUPER SUPER CAREFUL pulling off the gold WiFi antenna connectors! As described, use the spludger to press up the black cable just behind the metal connector. I tried to ping them off from the bottom of the gold connector where it clips into the socket on the motherboard and ended up pulling off the SMD sockets from the motherboard - huge and costly mistake that will probably render it useless.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルのコネクタをこじ開けます。
How do I reconnect display connector??
Kris Queck - 返信
Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.
Pro tip: You can remove the two T5 screws on the LCD connector side (located to the right of the display connector and to the left of the heat shield). From there, tilt the whole skinny LCD board towards the logic board connector and gently pinch the connector in to the socket. Before laying the skinny board back down, screw in the shield from Step 15 so it doesn’t pop out of the socket again.
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T4トルクスドライバーで次のネジを外します。
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5.5mmネジー1本
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2.6mmネジー3本
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1.9mmネジー2本
These are T5 Torx driver screws
Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)
During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.
This tip was a huge help, hate these cables lol
The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.
On my board I needed to use T6 for all the screws except the rubber bumper for which I used a T7. I have a full set of small Torx drivers and tried for the best fit.
jeffyouell - 返信
T5 fit best is all the screws on my machine
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドのZIFコネクタ上の小さな固定フラップを持ち上げます。
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トラックパッドケーブルをコネクタからまっすぐスライドして外します。
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ピンセットを使って、バッテリーサイドに付いている黒い接着剤のプルタブを、指でしっかりと摘める程度まで取り出します。
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接着ストリップのプルタブを摘んで、慎重かつゆっくりと接着ストリップをバッテリーの下から引き抜きます。
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接着ストリップが切断してしまった場合は、そのままにして次の手順に進んでください。
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バッテリーを取り出します。
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新しくインストールしたバッテリーのキャリブレーションを行います。100%になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100%まで充電します。
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オリジナルのパーツと交換用パーツをよく見比べてください。交換用パーツに付いていない残りのコンポーネントや接着シールなどは、インストールする前に新パーツに移植する必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか?まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
オリジナルのパーツと交換用パーツをよく見比べてください。交換用パーツに付いていない残りのコンポーネントや接着シールなどは、インストールする前に新パーツに移植する必要があります。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか?まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
22 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›
5 件のコメント
Great repair guide but the logic board screws are Torx T5 (not T4) at Step 25 of guide
Thanks! I would never have guessed everything that needed to be done without this guide. Man, I HATE the tiny, tiny screws. Lost one even after sticking all the screws to tape, just in case. :( Took the full hour to put in in, but the new battery is charging like new.
K L DeWitt - 返信
Be SUPER SUPER CAREFUL pulling off the gold WiFi antenna connectors! As described, use the spludger to press up the black cable just behind the metal connector. I tried to ping them off from the bottom of the gold connector where it clips into the socket on the motherboard and ended up pulling off the SMD sockets from the motherboard - huge and costly mistake that will probably render it useless.
If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?
maccentric - 返信
I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.
stevebsiegel - 返信
On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.
johann beda - 返信
Just did one, and it also had longest screws in the corners.
maccentric -
Just did another, and the long ones were in the middle. Definitely poor design and quality control.
maccentric -