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はじめに

MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードを交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください。

    • 作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を落として下さい。ディスプレイを閉じ柔らかい表面の上に置いてください。

    • P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースをはずしてください。ネジは次の長さに分かれます。

    • 9mm ネジー 2本

    • 2.6mm ネジー 8本

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 返信

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 返信

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 返信

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 返信

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 返信

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 返信

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 返信

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 返信

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 返信

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 返信

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 返信

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - 返信

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - 返信

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - 返信

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - 返信

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - 返信

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - 返信

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 返信

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - 返信

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - 返信

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - 返信

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - 返信

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - 返信

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - 返信

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - 返信

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - 返信

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - 返信

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - 返信

  1. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • ディスプレイと下部ケースの間に指を入れ、上に引っ張って下部ケースを本体から外します。

    • 下部ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 返信

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 返信

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - 返信

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - 返信

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - 返信

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - 返信

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - 返信

  2. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換, バッテリーコネクタ: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 作業中に電源がオンにならないようにするには、バッテリーを外すことをお勧めします。

    • バッテリーコネクターに取り付けられた透明なプラスチック製のプルタブを掴み、Airの前端に向かって引っ張り、バッテリーをロジックボードから外します。

    • コネクターの接続を外すときは、コネクターソケットにダメージを与えてしまう可能性があるためコネクターを上に持ち上げないでください。

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - 返信

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - 返信

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - 返信

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - 返信

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - 返信

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - 返信

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - 返信

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - 返信

  3. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換, I/O ボードケーブル: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボード上のソケットからI/O ボードケーブルのコネクタを跳ね上げます。

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - 返信

  4. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • ファン上部に固定された接着剤からゆっくりと丁寧にI/O ボードケーブルを解放します。

    • 再組み立ての際は、このケーブルが正しい方向に装着されているか確認してください。逆向きでも装着できますが、ラップトップが起動しません。

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - 返信

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - 返信

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - 返信

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - 返信

  5. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 6、 2の画像 2
    • 次のコネクターのソケットは特に深くなっています。このソケットから接続を外す際はご注意ください。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I / Oボードのケーブルをロジックボードの接続部付近に向けてゆっくりと跳ね上げます。コネクタの両側から上向きに押し上げて、ソケットから外します。

    • I/O ボードケーブルを取り出します。

    pour le remontage

    de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

    matthiasf40 - 返信

  6. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換, ファン: 手順 7、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ファンケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを跳ね上げて、裏返します。

    • 蝶番状の固定フラップのみをこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 返信

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - 返信

    Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

    Edwin -

    I've performed many repairs on 13" MacBook Airs ('MBA's), including two heat sink compound 're-dos' just today (on a 2014 13" and a 2015 13").

    It is not necessary to remove the I/O Board to take out the heatsink. And I've done it both ways - its way easier if you leave the I/O board in place. Here's why: removing the I/O board requires dis -and re-connecting two extremely delicate connectors as well as several cables that are really tricky to get back in place, all critical connections. If you aren't experienced with this kind of work, its taxing.

    Instead, once you remove the flat I/O cable, remove the 3 screws holding in the fan and the two hinge screws securing the antenna cable guide. Now the screw securing the tip of the 'radiator' end of the heat sink will be pretty easy to access. The detached fan can moved (and you don't need /want to move it much!) to disengage the rubber shroud where it goes under the fan and gently guide the 'radiator' out.

    clinton - 返信

  7. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    • ファンの上部に付けられた接着剤から、ゴム製ガスケットを剥がします。

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - 返信

  8. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースとファンを固定している次の3つのネジを外します。

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジ(小サイズ)ー1本

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - 返信

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 返信

  9. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • I/Oボード側からファンを持ち上げ、上部ケースよりファンを引っ張り、取り出します。

    • ファンを取り出すときは、ファンのリボンケーブルの接続を外します。ケーブルを他のコンポーネントに引っかけないようご注意ください。

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - 返信

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 返信

    If you are careful with the ribbon cable, there is no need to remove it, the fan will swing out of the way enough. I applied a small amount of sticky tape over the connector to keep it in place, just in case!

    Damian Holland - 返信

  10. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換, I/O ボード: 手順 11、 1の画像 1
    • I/Oボードのパワーケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから引き抜き、接続を外します。

    • ケーブルをAirの右側端に向かって、ロジックボードの表面と平行に引っ張ります。

    It requires a somewhat concerning amount of force. I mean, be careful, but I pulled just slightly more than I was comfortable with (for the first time)

    Elijah Kennedy - 返信

  11. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのケーブルコネクタの接続を外し、I/Oボード上のソケットから取り出します。

    • ワイヤーの下から差し込んで、跳ね上げてください。

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - 返信

  12. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 13、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、マイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを丁寧に跳ね上げます。

    • 固定フラップを跳ね上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 返信

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - 返信

    I managed to get the little flap out when trying to push it back in. Now I can’t get the microphone to work…

    Edwin - 返信

    I removed it And I can’t get it to stay connected now that I am putting it back together? How does it stick to the gold part???

    jelainec1 - 返信

    This was an extremely sensitive part to remove. The sticky bit didn’t seem to want to let go, and there isn’t really anywhere to ‘grab’ the cable from the ZIF socket. Ended up using the sticky ‘cover’ portion. Just be carefully wiggling and cajoling the cable free. (2013 model)

    Thomas Keats - 返信

  13. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • I/Oボードと上部ケースを固定している3.6 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 返信

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 返信

    This comment was extremely helpful as the connection on the cable end is difficult to see. The tab is for pulling the connector into place.

    jheller105 -

  14. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    • I/Oボード上のくぼみからカメラケーブルを丁寧に巻き戻します。そしてスパッジャーの先端を使って、邪魔にならない位置に固定します。

  15. MacBook Air 13インチ Mid 2013 I/Oボードの交換: 手順 16、 1の画像 1
    • I/Oボードをロジックボードより持ち上げて、上部ケースから解放します。

    • I/Oボードを取り出すには、マイクリボンケーブルの接続を外さなければなりません。ケーブルを他のコンポーネントに引っかけないようご注意ください。

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - 返信

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    OAT YEAH! Followed this guide to replace my Macbook Air 2014 I/O board step-by-step (thx Jeff Suovanen and contributors) with no probs…workie workie now! FYI it had stopped charging…I tried a new charger, new battery, and finally this I/O board…

    Just take your time and make sure you have the torx screw + adapter bits and spudger as they do not come with the I/O board (I had them leftover from a previous iFixit battery swap).

    Kent O - 返信

    When replacing the I/O board, be careful to gently lift the microphone ribbon cable out of the way. If you forget, you’ll have to remove the I/O board to get at it again…

    VikingShips - 返信

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

45 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Walter Galan

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7 件のコメント

How can I tell if its my I/O board that is damaged? I cannot hear sound from Aux port or from the speakers on my macbook. Laptop still charges fine though.

Ralphy Sierra - 返信

Check to see if your USB port on that side works. That was how I know mine was bad.

craig - 返信

Was easier than I thought to do.

craig - 返信

If light on magsafe doesn't turn on, is it safe to say the io board needs to be replaced?

Jon Lewin - 返信

Thumbs up Walter!

jlaramore - 返信

Worked perfectly for me. In my case the audio device wasn’t able to be found so no sound unless I used a usb or bluetooth speaker. I found that one step here wasn’t necessary was to remove the fan - just swivel it out of the way and so you don’t have to unplug it. Otherwise a very good explanation made it easy for me to fix my 2013 MacAir having no sound.

Josh Marshall - 返信

Thank you! Very easy directions, and Macbook Air is now charging. One question; after replacing the I/O board, although the magsafe charger is working, the light comes on, etc., the AC charger is no longer recognized in the system report. It says that no AC adapter is connected, and that it’s not charging even though it is. Any ideas, or I just don’t need to worry about it?

Willa Deane Mikel - 返信

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今までの合計 27,447