はじめに
このガイドを使用して、MacBook Airの内蔵バッテリーを交換してください。
ご注意: もし交換用のバッテリー上に薄いプラスチックのフィルムが付いている場合は、これを外さないでください。MacBookも内側につけられている間、バッテリーパックを保護する役割があります。
必要な工具と部品
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バッテリを上部ケースに固定している以下の5本のネジを外します。
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5.2 mm T5トルクスねじ（六角星ねじ） 2本
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6 mm T5トルクスねじ（六角星ねじ） 1本
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2.6 mm T5トルクスねじ（六角星ねじ） 2本
Don’t be like me! Make sure you use the *other* screw driver, not the one you took the case off with. I got five of them out with the wrong screwdriver, stripped the head on the sixth, got it out with a screw extractor, cut a new slot in it so I could use a normal flat head screw driver on it to put it back in, and then realized….
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バッテリーをロジックボードに近い上端から持ち上げ、上部ケースから取り外します。
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100％になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100％まで充電します。
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新しいバッテリーを装着後、通常通り作動しない場合は、MacBook ProのSMCをリセットしなければならない可能性があります。
I need to point out here that the replacement battery that I bought here at iFixit for this MacBook Air says that the battery calibration consists on draining the battery below 10%, then charging it uninterruptedly to 100%, but this is not consistent with the battery calibration that appears on this guide. Which one should I follow? Any additional thoughts on this? Thanks.
Hi Rafael,
We updated our battery calibration technique recently. The most reliable way would be to follow the guide method (charge full + 2 hours, drain completely, charge full again).
This was wonderfully easy-peasy! I just have one small suggestion: you might add a word (and a photo would be great), reminding folks that they need to connect the new battery connector. I know, it should (ok, it is! :) obvious and all… but I have to admit, after having my hand held so well through the rest of the process, having to engage brain again and realize that needed to be done (“what’s missing here?”) - took a moment. It was a bit nervous-making, too, since the new battery cable was quite stiff, resistant to bending, and I had to apply a wee bit of brute force and ignorance to position and connect the connector. Adding a note about that might be useful. Just a thought! Otherwise, super easy and straight forward - I feel so empowered! :)
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組立の際は、以下の手順を逆の順序で実行してください。
組立の際は、以下の手順を逆の順序で実行してください。
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21 件のコメント
Now my touchpad isn't working as well as before. Any ideas why?
Dead on Accurate. Was very easy. I would change the rating from moderate to easy. The hardest part is getting the correct screw drivers.
Phil Blake - 返信
hello, is there any difference between A1370 (late 2010) battery part and a A1370 (2011) battery?
I'm also wondering the same thing. Did you find the answer to your question? Thank you.
swj.sean -
The connector is in a different location, although the batteries are otherwise similar-looking (including using the same power connector shape.) Unfortunately the different connector position means the battery mounting screws can’t be installed while the wrong battery model is connected, which in turn means the case will not be able to close. I also don’t know whether there are rating or electronic interface differences that might cause problems.
Followed this guide - very straightforward. I now have a late 2010 Macbook Air nicely running Lubuntu with a long battery life.
I would point out:
- be ready to clean dust from the inside of your Mac
- when re-inserting the battery connector, you need to bend it quite significantly so it is short enough to reach the connection pins
- screws are very small and easy to lose
Any suggestions on where to order a replacement battery for my MacBook Air 2010 A1370.
You can find batteries at MacSales (Other World Computing) by going to Shop All > Batteries & Battery Chargers and selecting your exact model Mac from the list. If you have questions you can chat with them directly to make sure you get the exact battery for your machine as not all batteries are the same.
As always, you’ll need to calibrate the new battery.
Hope this helps.
spearson -
so usefull thanks a lot,its my first time to open this model.
I have followed these instructions and they worked. However, my battery connector has disconnected three times and have had to remove the bottom panel three times to reconnect the battery to the logic board. Any ideas on what I could do to keep this from happening? Thx.
Super easy! Laptop plugged in and charging - can’t wait to see how it does. Thanks!
Got the replacement from Amazon with 5stars rating…followed the instructions to the T…still not charging nor powering up..does it matter if I use my 15inch charger to charge it, same year…
What torque setting should be used when reassembling to avoid over tightening? When I dissambled to remove bloated battery I didnt have a torque screwdriver so I had no way to measure tightness but now I have one so I would like to be accurate.
My battery was inflated, so after replacement, no charging, So believe the battery management IC also got damaged, Is there a procedure to replace it?
Dead easy, thank you for this how-to. Fiddling with the miniscule screws was the hardest part
Dan
Merci pour ce tutoriel. Vraiment bien expliqué. Facile à faire.
I’m replacing the battery with one I ordered through this site and the battery status is flickering between “Battery is not charging” and “no battery available” I installed it following the directions correctly. There’s no damage to the prongs of the battery connector. I followed resetting the SMC, and still no luck. Any advice?
I recommend that one of the tools you obtain is a jeweler's loupe that mounts on your glasses. It makes things easier.
blairweaver - 返信
This is not correct. You need the pentalobe tool at this point.
Duane Hellums - 返信