はじめに
このガイドを参照して、MacBook Air 11インチ Mid 2012のバッテリーを交換しましょう。
注意:薄いプラスチック製フィルムが交換するバッテリーに貼られている場合、剥がそうとしないでください。それは糊付けされていて、MacBook内部にある限りバッテリーパックを保護しています。
必要な工具と部品
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボードのソケットからバッテリーコネクターを上に抜き上げて外します。
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ロジックボードから外したコネクターのケーブルをわずかに曲げて、コネクター部分がが誤ってソケットに接触しないようにします。
I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.
Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?
The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.
It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.
Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.
I just used my finger(nails), came off easily (even though i have a full iFixIt set).
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バッテリーを外すためには、以下の5本のネジを外します：
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T5 トルクスネジ 5.2mm 2本
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T5 トルクスネジ 6mm 1本
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T5 トルクスネジ 2.6mm 2本
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バッテッリーは、ロジックボードに近い方から持ち上げ、上部ケースより外します。
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100％になるまで充電します。充電後も最低2時間はプラグを繋げたままにします。それからプラグを外して、通常通り使用しながら、自然に放電させます。バッテリー残量小のサインが表示されたら、これまでの作業を保存して、スリープ状態になるまで放置してください。スリープ状態に入ったら、少なくとも5時間置きます。それから一気に100％まで充電します。
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新しいバッテリーを装着後、通常通り作動しない場合は、MacBook ProのSMCをリセットしなければならない可能性があります。
I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?
In my case, the replacement battery cable was quite stiff. In order to properly connect it to the logic board, BEFORE screwing the battery into the board, I carefully bent the cable and I connected it to the board. AFTER connecting the cable, carefully move the part of the batter closest to the logic board into place, and take care of those screws first.
Chris 1000 - 返信
Followed the instructions and everything went smoothly. Less than 20 minutes later everything assembled and my MacBook Air working very well.
Thanks
Luis Lopes - 返信
As with Chris 1000, the replacement battery cable is stiff. First position the battery loosely into it's slot, then align the cable connector over the pins & press gently but firmly to seat the connector. Secondly, seat the battery to line up with all of it's screw fasteners for the reassembly.
Instructions did not mention the plastic film on top of the battery. Similar to a peel away film on a new phone. But it had screws holes in it and does not peel away as easily as a phone Peels away from edge easily enough but had a little "pull" to it over the cells. For now I left it. Quick google searches did not clarify the issue. If anyone can confirm I should pull it off I'll open it up again and remove. The install is easy.
I think I saw a note that said to leave it. But side-note, i'm glad to see someone replacing the battery more recently, as I just purchased myself a new macbook but my son asked if we can replace the battery and I honestly didn't even realize that it was possible for some reason. I think for the minimal cost involved and the fact that my 2011 still works flawlessly he'll enjoy it for a few more years to come as well. I hope the new ones are made as well quality wise!!
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
136 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
21 件のコメント
I followed the directions in the reverse order, but now I have the old battery in my laptop again. Help?
I love you Jenny. That is all.
Great guide. Identified my parts, ordered them per the suggestions, and had the battery swapped out in 10 minutes. I like to use a magnetic sheet to hold and organize my screws for repairs like this - it keeps the proper size screws in the proper holes. If you don't have access to magnetic sheeting like I do from my graphics shop, an oval car magnet or a fridge magnet will work as well. The screwdriver recommended are of better quality than I expected. Thanks Ifixit.
Incredibly easy - done in 15 minutes.
After installing new battery Macbook air says "battery not charging" *has an X on the battery indicator*.
The MACsafe2 charger has an orange light.
The battery information indicates;
battery installed: yes
condition: Normal.
Full charge capacity: 5000 (mAh).
Charge remaining: no
Fully charged: no
Charging: no
cycle count: 0
Amperage(mA): 0
Voltage(Mv): 7500
Did a SMC reset a few time.. still no luck. please help
awesome instructions…it worked! My MacBook Air 2012 now has a better battery and it was easy. Thank you
Please note that the screws holding the lower case on go in at a slight angle. If you don’t hold the screwdriver at this angle the tiny torx bit won’t mate properly with the head of the screw and you could damage the screw or the bit. If you don’t screw them back in at the correct angle you could have the same problem, or strip the threads on the case and/or have the screws sticking out a bit and they could snag on or scratch something. However, the instructions are correct.
thanks worked perfectly and appreciate the help!
Jim Lukens - 返信
I am now having a problem with my battery install that was very successful and working a week ago. No response yet from ifixit. I think their battery was bad or it has messed up the battery software in the macbook air. Not very happy or satisfied at this point as my mac is no longer functional the new battery battery will no longer hold charge at all. I am very sorry I disposed of the original too quickly now. 80% charge is better than none.
Jim Lukens - 返信
Thankfully Ifixit has responded and is very helpful and is issuing me a new battery to replace the one that is not working. I will get it a week or so and try again. fingers crossed.
Jim Lukens - 返信
So I ended up with another vendor battery but even it has issues. Apple Store said this age mac air is beyond the range of their diagnostic tools and its about finding a high quality battery vs anything being wrong with the mac itself software/hardware all of the presenting issues are low battery quality related. Apparently battery quality is not the best across all manufacturers. Take that for what its worth but its what I heard.
Apple store agreed even the latest MacAir is not much faster/better because processor is still very similar, Storage / RAM are the largest changes so its hard to justify new Mac cost. They actually said if I could nurse battery as is and try others if they fail is probably the best way to address. It works fine charges to 100, counts cycles, but cuts out randomly under 20%. I still get good 4 hours use which is fine for me.
Ifixit has been extremely helpful and has offered to refund me so I have been happy with Ifixit & this guide was fully correct and will continue to use ifixit.
Installed the new battery and it will not charge. Anyone able to help?
Done in 20 minutes I’m a little slow but very easy
Hi! I installed this battery successfully on my MBA mid 2012. It works fine but even after calibrating it properly and doing the SMC reset, I do not get longer battery life. Even though the capacity increased (4443 mAh at the moment) I get the same problem as before: at 20% remaining level battery level suddenly drops to 6% and the macbook turns off very quickly. I tried to calibrate multiple times, nothing changed.
Any ideas?
Thank you
The installation worked out well. Great guide thanks
Super easy-For to easy!!
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - 返信
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - 返信
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - 返信
A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.
Michael Mee - 返信
Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!
Lilljedahl -
I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.
It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.
I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?
AMG - 返信
The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)
Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.
Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372
Hope this helps! -Dan
danielwen -
I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?
Robert Hermans - 返信
Hi Robert!
Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!
Arthur Shi -
Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy
vensilver - 返信
Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.
Arthur Shi -
The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.
Rachel Slatkin - 返信