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はじめに

このガイドを使って、Mac mini Late 2014の内蔵アンテナを含むI/Oフェイスプレートを交換します。 あるモデルでは、ヒートシンクを外さなくてもI/Oフェイスプレートを外したり、インストールすることができます。この場合、ヒートシンクを取り外す作業をスキップしてください。(I/Oフェイスプレートケーブルをダメージ与えないように特にご注意ください)

ヒートシンクを取り出す場合には、Mac miniを再組み立てする前に、必ず放熱グリスを塗布してください。塗布前の準備には、ガイドを参照して、表面を綺麗に拭き取ってから放熱グリスを塗ってください。

このガイドはFusion Drive Mac miniを使って作成しています。このデバイスには、お持ちのモデルよりもコネクターやコンポーネントが多い場合があります。ハードドライブやSSDコネクタがなくても心配しないでください!

  1. 下面カバーは3つのネジ留めによって固定されています。
    • 下面カバーは3つのネジ留めによって固定されています。

    • ネジ留めの近く(ネジ留めの上ではない)を押し開けてください。

    Read Me First: I purchased an SSD drive directly from Crucial and, of course, it came uninitialized. After going thru the entire tear down, installing the new drive, and rebuilding the mini, it refused to recognize the new drive. So, of course, I had to re-tear it down, remove the new drive, insert it into an external housing and format it using my Macbook. After that the mini recognized the new drive. A word to the wise: format the new drive before installing it.

    tom - 返信

    How were you installing the OS? I am planning on booting into a USB drive with a copy of OS High Sierra on it, and I assume I will be able to format my new Samsung SSD using that?

    Simon - 返信

    On my Samsung EVO 850, mac mini download system automaticly

    Stefan Repac - 返信

    Pre-formatting is not necessary if you make a USB boot installation drive with macOS installer. During boot up, hold down the option key until the mac boot into the USB, formatting can then be done using disk utility running off the USB drive.

    SBR249 - 返信

    I had the exact same experience as tom. I installed a brand new 2TB Samsung 850 EVO and it was not recognized by the Mac Mini. I booted from a portable USB drive with a bootable copy of macOS High Sierra but the 850 EVO SSD I had just installed was not shown as an option. I tore down the Mac Mini again, formatted the 850 EVO, rebuilt the Mac Mini, and booted off the same bootable High Sierra USB drive, and sure enough the 850 EVO was recognized.

    maxim - 返信

    diskutil list

    diskutil erasedisk [filesystem] [drivename] /dev/disk[disk number]

    Paul Rodgers - 返信

    My drive (Evo 860) was also not initialized. I started in recovery mode and went to disc utility and from there selected the drive. I then was able to use the “erase” function on the drive. I just left the settings as default and as soon as it erased then the drive was ready to go.

    Nathan Cooper - 返信

    Just completed this upgrade a few days ago, having purchased the 1 TB SSD kit from IFixIt. The kit arrived quickly and the tools and drive worked perfectly. The step by step guide posted here is pretty much flawless, but do pay attention to the specific comments from users on certain steps - they really help. As far as ensuring that the new drive will reboot and install MacOS, I watched 1-2 videos on YouTube about re-installing using the Internet Recovery tool and that worked perfectly. My MacMini is performing WAY better than it used to, for only a $200 upgrade kit and about 3 hours of work, all in. Thanks!

    Joshua Rednik - 返信

  2. プラスチックの開口ツールで下面カバーをMac mini本体より押し上げてください。 プラスチックの開口ツールで下面カバーをMac mini本体より押し上げてください。 プラスチックの開口ツールで下面カバーをMac mini本体より押し上げてください。
    • プラスチックの開口ツールで下面カバーをMac mini本体より押し上げてください。

    I used some wooden toothpicks instead of the opening tool. This worked flawless for me.

    mhomscheidt - 返信

  3. 下面カバーを引き上げて取り外してください。 下面カバーを引き上げて取り外してください。
    • 下面カバーを引き上げて取り外してください。

    I taped the "Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool" to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

    Richard - 返信

    That’s a brilliant idea, @mrredwood!

    Dan Moore -

    I would suggest you wash the underside of the plastic as mine after 3 years was covered in dust.

    John Errington - 返信

    I couldn’t get mine to snap back on

    David Yutzy - 返信

  4. アンテナプレートから以下のTR6ネジを取り外してください。
    • アンテナプレートから以下のTR6ネジを取り外してください。

    • 3つの4.1mmネジ

    • 3つの1.9mmネジ

    Had a T7 security screw driver [and didn't want to wait to have the T6 version shipped to me], so I gave it a whirl. I lined up the driver with the screw socket, pressed down a bit to make sure the driver would get enough grip, and slowly [but forcefully] rotated the driver and got these screws out. BE CAUTIOUS not to strip the screws. May not work for everyone.

    KevCoStudios - 返信

    As TR6 screwdrivers were sold out all over Germany and I wanted to exchange the HDD THIS friday, I took a VERY fine dental milling tip (0,8 mm head diameter) for my proxxon and milled away the little dots in the center of the the TR6 screws. After that I could open the case with a regular T6 screwdriver. All went fine, MM is closed again + working like a charm with it's new SSD. NOTE: For this task I used my loupe glasses (3x) ;)

    Martin Gerner - 返信

    On the whole screw thing. I just used a tiny dremel drill bit and drilled out the security pin. I hate those screws. I don't see the point in locking the them with those. they should have left the screws alone.

    That Mac Guy - 返信

    That worked for me, thanks for the trick!

    Arroba -

    I used the T7 very carefully. No problems.

    randywardak - 返信

    I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

    Barrythetech - 返信

    Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

    Gary Craig - 返信

    On my 2nd drive replacement (swapping out to an SSD this time). Could not find my logic board removal tool. So I made another one from a metal coat hanger. So, here’s my tip, when you put it all back together: the logic board removal tool fits around that small black circle antenna perfectly and you can replace the large black cover over the top snuggly. No rattles or anything.. So, next time: I’m guaranteed to find my logic board removal tool.

    Andy Milne - 返信

    The three longer screws could be removed with pliers.

    The three shorter once I drilled out with a sharp 3 mm drill.

    First put tape across the ventilation opening and carefully vacuum cleaned before taking of the antenna plate, though.

    Don’t you hate it when the manufacturer does things like this, though??

    ernstcline - 返信

    My set of drill bits contained a T6H but no TR6 (I don’t know the difference). That worked too without problems

    Claus - 返信

    I can recommend the Tekprem tools for this. That %#*@ security dimple foiled me until I got these. check Amazon ratings before you buy any tools, a lot of them that come from China are made with cheap pot metal rather than properly hardened alloys and will strip out very quickly. (Don’t ask me how I know this.)

    MrSpiral - 返信

  5. アンテナプレートを完全に本体から取り外さないでください。アンテナプレートはまだMac miniとアンテナケーブルで繋がっています。 接続端子が自分の方に向くように置き、アンテナケーブルコネクタに触れるようにアンテナプレートを右側に裏返します。
    • アンテナプレートを完全に本体から取り外さないでください。アンテナプレートはまだMac miniとアンテナケーブルで繋がっています。

    • 接続端子が自分の方に向くように置き、アンテナケーブルコネクタに触れるようにアンテナプレートを右側に裏返します。

  6. アンテナケーブルから1つの3.4mmT6ネジとワッシャーを取り外します。
    • アンテナケーブルから1つの3.4mmT6ネジとワッシャーを取り外します。

    • ネジを取り外すときにワッシャーをなくさないように気をつけてください。

    This is a pain in the arse to get back on. Lock the screw down first when reassembling.

    Jim Allen - 返信

    No need toremove this. The cable squeezes out of the gap under the case with enough length for the antenna plate to be out of the way.

    cheongi - 返信

    Not necessary to remove just be careful and don’t stretch the cable.

    peter Tucker - 返信

  7. ピンセットを使ってエアポートカード上にあるソケットからアンテナケーブルコネクタを上に引き抜きます。 ピンセットを使ってエアポートカード上にあるソケットからアンテナケーブルコネクタを上に引き抜きます。
    • ピンセットを使ってエアポートカード上にあるソケットからアンテナケーブルコネクタを上に引き抜きます。

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - 返信

    This was the most tricky part for me when remounting the Mac Mini. With my bad eyes, I’ve spent 10 minutes inserting this tiny round antenna plug in the hole. I’ve decided to put the screw back without tighten it too strongly and then it was easier.

    afajner - 返信

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I changed the drive. I don’t know if this connector is the cause or not.

    Simon - 返信

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I did this upgrade. Don’t know if it’s this connector or not.

    Simon - 返信

    Afajner great rip. Worked great. Thx

    Milton - 返信

    Afajner, your tip worked great. Thanks.

    Milton - 返信

    This is a very fiddly connector. Afajner’s tip is recommended. Make sure the connector is in securely. It will not wiggle or make a ticking sound when pressed when it is seated correctly.

    maxim - 返信

    I had trouble at this point too. My experience: Loosen the screw a bit and than center the antenna plug over the pin. In my case I heard a click when I plugged it in correctly. Don’t forget to tighten the screw afterwards.

    Matthias - 返信

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - 06/25/2017

    UP! is it?

    sandro.vezzali - 返信

    Not strictly necessary for SSD access, no—just allows you to detach the antenna plate and get it safely out of the way. You can leave it in place if you prefer, but be careful to support the antenna plate and make sure the cable doesn’t get strained or yanked accidentally.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Wenn nur die M.2 gewechselt werden soll, empfehle ich, den Antennenstecker nicht abzuschrauben und den Deckel einfach vorsichtig beiseite zu legen. Es ist dann allemal genug Platz zum Wechsel der M.2.

    Das Ausstecken dieses Steckers ist hier wirklich nicht einfach, da die Anschlüsse winzig und mit bloßem Auge kaum zu erkennen sind. Hat bei mir gut 20 Minuten gedauert, bis ich das Teil wieder drauf hatte. Eine Lupe kann hier wirklich helfen. Auch das vorherige Fixieren mit der Schraube macht es ggfs. etwas einfacher. Der restliche Ausbau/Umbau/Zusamenbau war nach einer knappen halben Stunde erledigt und ist für jeden mit etwas Geduld machbar.

    Des weiteren aufpassen mit der winzigen Schraube, die beim Zusammenbau leicht verkanten kann und dann sehr schnell abreißt.

    Hermann Röttger - 返信

    In trying to remove the antenna connector pin from its socket on the airport card the socket came away from its location on the airport card completely, together with the cable and connector pin. Rather than replace the airport card (that would have a new socket) and a new connector/pin for the cable, I decided it would be worth trying to solder the connecting pin to the (now exposed) contact points for the socket on the airport card.

    Best time to do this is during the re-build _after_ replacing the hard drive, when the antenna is still unattached to the airport card. After the re-build (with no further problems encountered) it was quite easy to solder the connector pin with attached remains of the socket to the airport card's contact points - there's enough space for easy solder access without other sensitive components nearby.

    I had thought that my Mac Mini's wireless connectivity might be affected, but it wasn't.

    Now very happy with a fast SSD machine with wireless connectivity.

    David Paul - 返信

    this was the most fiddly part of the reassembly operation for me too. Old eyes, despite good lighting, led me to try this multiple times before I finally got that satisfying click. I am surprised that people find securing the screw first to be helpful, as I didn’t have nearly enough room to move the cable around if I tried that. Also, while it is theoretically possible to do this entire operation without removing the cable, I would never chance it… It’s way too easy to damage something by yanking on the plate. I had a lot of peace of mind when I was able to set the entire antenna plate aside.

    MrSpiral - 返信

    After I reassembling, my bluetooth no longer works. The antenna connector is definitely seated properly as I heard the click, and it was fully secured when I tried to wiggle the wire. Did anyone else have this problem?

    Sean Dickson - 返信

    Update: when I disconnected the antenna cable, OSX retained my keyboard and mouse in the bluetooth device list, but it had apparently forgotten they were paired. I bought a usb keyboard and usb mouse to figure this out. Deleted the devices from the bluetooth list, rediscovered them, and now it’s working fine.

    Sean Dickson -

  8. 気をつけて電源系統とケースの間からアンテナケーブルを引き抜きます。 気をつけて電源系統とケースの間からアンテナケーブルを引き抜きます。
    • 気をつけて電源系統とケースの間からアンテナケーブルを引き抜きます。

    Use tab that the screw goes through to align the connecter more easily.

    Rob Speight - 返信

  9. Mac miniからアンテナプレートを取り外します。
    • Mac miniからアンテナプレートを取り外します。

    To save time and effort, note that you don’t need to disconnect the antenna cable from the radio module. Just carefully lay the antenna plate / cable assembly over to the side and perform the SSD switch.

    clinton - 返信

  10. ファンの2つの12mmT6ネジを取り外します。
    • ファンの2つの12mmT6ネジを取り外します。

    • 27mmT6キャプティブネジを緩めます。

    That 27mm screw should be very loose, since it attaches the motherboard to the case. When you’re trying to remove the motherboard, if the AC connection side of the board is not moving back easily, you need to make sure this screw is fully backed out from the case.

    There’s no danger in removing it completely.

    marklfarley - 返信

    I suggest removing the 27 mm tool, otherwise Step 23 will not work.

    Arvin Bhatnagar - 返信

    Actually you don’t need to remove 27mm from the fan. I was able to tilt a little when I take the logic board out in Step 23. I also didn’t take the fan cable too. When you pull the logic board out, put the fan on the back of logic board as you pull it out.

    Kenneth Z - 返信

  11. ファンのコネクタはファンの縁の下に隠されています。これはファンを取り出さなければコネクタを外せません。 ファンを完全に取り外すまでコネクタを外さないでください。 ファンをロジックボードのネジ穴からまっすぐ引き上げてください。
    • ファンのコネクタはファンの縁の下に隠されています。これはファンを取り出さなければコネクタを外せません。

    • ファンを完全に取り外すまでコネクタを外さないでください。

    • ファンをロジックボードのネジ穴からまっすぐ引き上げてください。

    • ファンのコネクタに触れられるようになるまでSSDからファンを引き抜きます。

  12. 全てのタブを開く

    Mac用RAMアップグレードキット

    キット商品を見る

    どれだけタブを開いても
    十分に足りるRAM容量

    キット商品を見る
  13. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上にあるソケットからファンコネクタを引き上げて抜きます。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上にあるソケットからファンコネクタを引き上げて抜きます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボードの上にあるソケットからファンコネクタを引き上げて抜きます。

    When I did this the entire socket came off the logic board. What do I do now?

    Tyler - 返信

    I broke off the connector. More photos of the connector may help. I lifted it but the pins broke off. It took me awhile to find points on the board to solder the wires to. I got 3 of 4 wires and the fan operates.

    Beryl Sachs - 返信

    I would suggest NOT using the point end of the Spudger but the wide end. Place behind connector (wire side) and twist gently.

    If I may be so bold as to also suggest that a torch be used for those small components/connections.

    TisMise - 返信

    I also broke the socket off. I don’t have the ability to solder little $@$* like that. I’m sad.

    Daniel Rackerby - 返信

    broke it… how bad is the no fan option?

    Kris Chu - 返信

    @TisMise you’re right thanks a lot! ;)

    Stefania Izzo - 返信

    You don’t need to disconnect the fan cable to take out the logic board. When you slip the logic board out, put the the fan behind the logic board as you push it out.

    Kenneth Z - 返信

  14. Mac miniからファンを取り外します。
    • Mac miniからファンを取り外します。

  15. SATAケーブルコネクタのブラケットを固定している2.6mmT6ネジを外してください。
    • SATAケーブルコネクタのブラケットを固定している2.6mmT6ネジを外してください。

    This screw is very short, when I tried to put it back, the beginning of its thread got dusted and now it's impossible to use it to fix the bracket in place. It should be 3.5 mm instead of 2.6. Nevertheless, the SATA connector is firmly attached to the logical board withou screw+bracket and my mac mini is working nicely.

    mario.estolano - 返信

    My mini came with only a PCIe SSD on it. When I got to this point, I discovered that because it was never shipped with a hard drive, there was no securing screw, no cable connector bracket, no cable connector, and no hardware for securing the drive. Fortunately, there is still a hole in the logic board where the SATA cable is supposed to pass through, and the logic board does have the appropriate connector. if you buy an OEM SATA cable, you can actually secure the SSD in place using a little bit of electricians tape. Because it has no moving parts, it’s not going to rattle itself loose. I am more concerned about not having a cover for the place where the SATA cable clips to the logic board, but I put a little electricians tape over it to hold it in place and I will see how that works.

    MrSpiral - 返信

    If you are adding a sata drive to a pcie mac mini 2014 only you wont have this part - as per MrSpiral’s pos. Using a 2012 additional drive kit will give you the sata connector to connect the drive to the logic board but not the securing screw and plate (next step) it would be good to be able to get this part. if anyone has any links that would be appreciated.

    Edward Chandler - 返信

  16. SATAケーブルコネクタのブラケットを外してください。 SATAケーブルコネクタのブラケットを外してください。
    • SATAケーブルコネクタのブラケットを外してください。

    This procedure works to add a SATA hard drive/SSD to a PCIe SSD-only Mac Mini using iFixit's Mac Mini Dual Drive Kit. The one thing that's missing from the kit is SATA cable connector bracket (and screw). This is not the end of the world: the cable is a snug fit in the logic board socket, so the bracket is only a safety measure.

    Dominic Dunlop - 返信

    Its shown in the 2nd picture but is very easy to skip over and I almost lost mine because I did exactly that. While I thing the connector would stay without it The little cover that hold the connector down would be a bad thing to have floating around in the machine.

    jeh.dominic - 返信

  17. ヘラ状のスパッジャーを用いてSATAケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外してください。 ヘラ状のスパッジャーを用いてSATAケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外してください。
    • ヘラ状のスパッジャーを用いてSATAケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外してください。

    Last time I did this I got the tool under the socket and it broke off. This caused the power light not to work. I don’t use the IR function so it wasn’t an issue. When putting this connector back on, make sure it seats well as many have has issues with the the power light not working. You will read more of this on the comments at the bottom

    Greg Bouten - 返信

  18. 先端の尖ったスパッジャーを用いて赤外線センサーケーブルコネクタを外してください。このとき、その部分をソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。 先端の尖ったスパッジャーを用いて赤外線センサーケーブルコネクタを外してください。このとき、その部分をソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。
    • 先端の尖ったスパッジャーを用いて赤外線センサーケーブルコネクタを外してください。このとき、その部分をソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。

    Be careful in this step. I am known for my gentle hands and the little cable flew out regardless. Was able to reinsert with no damage but was terrifying!

    Liliana Chavez - 返信

    What if the entire connector came off? Can this be glued again? How can I fix this?? :(

    Cai - 返信

    @caicruzz The socket will have to be re-soldered to the board. It’s not terribly difficult, but requires some specialized equipment and I wouldn’t recommend it as a DIY on any machine you care about, at least not without a lot of practice first. I’d suggest reaching out to a repair shop that handles board-level repairs. Sorry for the frustration! Accidents happen sometimes; fortunately this one is very fixable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This happened to me as well. Can I simply tape it in place? I’m never going to use the IR sensor anyway.

    Joseph Stillwell - 返信

    Is you made mini working without connecting the Broken IR bracket? I did this the other day and I can live without the IR and LED light. I could solder it, but rather not if the machine works without it

    John Kokkas -

    I did this. So mad at myself. Will my Mini still work if I left it as is. I understand that I won’t have IR and the LED light won’t work, but I can live without it

    John Kokkas - 返信

    I broke it too. Really annoying as I do use (or, used to) the IR sensor).

    Daniel Rackerby - 返信

    Of course I broke mine off… Be careful when you put the cable in! The Mini is working without it but no IR and LED on the front.

    bigsee - 返信

    Use a fine tip set of tweesers and slip the end under th wires and gently pry up.

    juggledad - 返信

    Je l’ai cassé aussi ….

    Bruno Villers - 返信

    I would recommend to go on till step 24, till the motherboard is pulled out slightly, then come back to this step. The space is very tight between the connector and the hard disk bracket, which makes it difficult to slide the spudger underneath the wires. It is much easier when the motherboard is slightly out and have more space for the tool. I followed @juggledad’s comment, and used a pair of fine tip tweezers to pry the connector out.

    Xu YANG - 返信

  19. これからの3つの手順はMac miniにPCle SSDが装着されている場合のみ行ってください。もしハードドライブのみ装着している場合は次の3つの手順は必要ありません。
    • これからの3つの手順はMac miniにPCle SSDが装着されている場合のみ行ってください。もしハードドライブのみ装着している場合は次の3つの手順は必要ありません。

    • PCle SSDケーブルのブラケットを固定している2つのT6ネジを外してください。

    Steps 18-20 only apply if you are removing a fusion drive. Otherwise skip to step 21 during removal.

    Stephen Reaser - 返信

  20. PCle SSDケーブルブラケットを取り出してください。 PCle SSDケーブルブラケットを取り出してください。
    • PCle SSDケーブルブラケットを取り出してください。

  21. PCle SSDコネクタをソケットから持ち上げて外します。 PCle SSDコネクタをソケットから持ち上げて外します。
    • PCle SSDコネクタをソケットから持ち上げて外します。

    Is the PCIe connector present and usable on the mid-range Mac mini? I don't need the ~$300 fusion drive but would like the comfort of knowing that I can add an extra SSD in the future.

    Michael Johnson - 返信

    No, only present in Mac Minis configured with a fusion drive.

    rasmus - 返信

    Not true. I am looking @ the inside of a mac mini _not_ configured with a fusion drive, and the connector is present.

    Samuel Bostick - 返信

    The PCIe connector is only present if the computer came factory configured with any sort of flash storage (SSD or fusion drive). Otherwise, the cable, the connector, the bracket, and the 2 screws are all missing. The fusion drive is essentially a disk drive plus a small capacity SSD blade which the OS recognizes as a combined drive. Fortunately, if you didn’t have an SSD before, you can easily buy the connector cable part on the internet. The bracket and screws are not necessary.

    SBR249 - 返信

    Is it correct that the “iFixit Mac mini Unibody SSD Upgrade Bundle” with a 500-Gbyte Crucial MX500 SSD does not require a PCIe connector? This is for a late 2014 Mac Mini with a failed HDD (order number MGEM2*/A). I think it is correct, as the connectors on the Crucial SSD look just like those on the HDD, but just checking…

    David Newman - 返信

  22. ロジックボードを固定している1つの16mmT6ネジを外します。
    • ロジックボードを固定している1つの16mmT6ネジを外します。

    There were 2 screws on the Mini I disassembled.

    Keith S Coker - 返信

    • ロジックボードを外すには、Mac miniロジックボード専用の取外しツールには入っている円筒形の棒2本を赤くマークされたホール部分に挿入してください。赤くマークされた部分以外のロジックボード上の穴に差し込んだ場合、破損する可能性があります。

    • Mac miniロジックボード専用取外しツールを赤くマークされた2つの穴に入れます。必ず棒がロジックボードの下のケースに到達するまで入れてください。

    Instead of the removal tool it is also possible to use two metal pins with 2,5mm diameter.

    Yuuki Galaxy - 返信

    A T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    rparks89 - 返信

    Yes - You need a T8 there rather than T9.

    amrgardner -

    T9 was a perfect fit for me.

    dloftis -

    T8 screws in my HDD

    aiino - 返信

    You don’t need a tool for this step, just turn the Mac Mini around 180º and push the vent for the fan with your thumbs. The board will push straight out. That’s what I did.

    Daniel De Ciantis - 返信

    Simple thumb-pushing didn’t work for me, so I bought the tool.

    Insert the MMLBRtool. How far? There’s an initial lip you might catch about halfway down, but wiggle beyond the lip to a definite bottoming out, and equal lengths of the tool on each side of the elbows as shown.

    As you lever the logic board per the illustrations, you’ll notice the black bezel begin to separate on one side or the other. Use a prying tool or guitar pick to help separate the bezel from the body on top and bottom, and the logic board will slide out easily with gentle prying.

    On my Mini, the bezel’s retaining clips (best seen in Step 25) were very snug to the body, preventing the thumb-push. Using the pick released them from the body.

    s gardner - 返信

    You definitely don’t need the tool. Just get two screwdrivers small enough to fit in the holes and push them both at the same time. I have about a million tiny torx screwdirvers that came with iphone screen replacement kits. I’m sure you do too.

    Mark2000 - 返信

    I used an old coat hanger. I just cut the end off with some pliers and then bent it into a similar shape as the tool. The biggest thing is making sure both sides are about the same length. Also, don’t put your thumbs on the black plastic part on the back of the mini because you won’t be able to pull the logic board out that way.

    Nathan Cooper - 返信

    As I didn't have the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool, I used two small Alien tools, similar to the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool.

    marcoscaj - 返信

    I paid the five bucks and I am really not sorry I did. Yes, I probably could’ve made my own or fiddled it out with a couple of screwdrivers, but without having done it before, knowing how much leverage to apply and in which direction was made much easier by using a proper tool.

    MrSpiral - 返信

    I used 2 screw drivers as suggested, and pulled towards me with my palms against the sides of the case. Even with a lot of muscle, I failed. The solution was to get a helper on the opposite side of the table. Using the fingers of both hands along the circular opening in the case, the helper pulled as I pulled on the screwdrivers. They should be kept vertical, so as to not damage the board. There is no way the procedure pictured in step 23 would have worked for me. My board must have needed at least 20 pounds of force to move

    mail - 返信

    Totally didn’t need to buy the tool they recommended. Just use two tiny screwdrivers (the same ones you are already using to take apart your mac. Pull at the same time toward you and the whole board popped out in a few seconds.

    Scott Provost - 返信

    etape la plus délicate du tuto, j’ai pour ma part fait levier avec la partie plate de la spatule en plastique entre le berceau du disque dur et la carte mère juste à coté du connecteur ir, la facade s’est légerement décollée, j’ai changé de place toujours avec la même méthode et la facade a continué de sortir, j’ai ensuite pu aider avec les trous initialement prévus (j’ai utilisé 2 tournevis torx très fin) et ensuite c’est sorti sans souci

    Olivier VH - 返信

  23. 注意しながら I/Oボードに向けてツールを倒します。ロジックボードと I/Oボードはケースからゆっくりスライドすると外れるように組み立てられています。 取り外しツールがケース縁に当たったらストップします。 Mac miniロジックボード専用取外しツールを出します。
    • 注意しながら I/Oボードに向けてツールを倒します。ロジックボードと I/Oボードはケースからゆっくりスライドすると外れるように組み立てられています。

    • 取り外しツールがケース縁に当たったらストップします。

    • Mac miniロジックボード専用取外しツールを出します。

    I had some trouble getting mine started here. If your logic board seems stuck, try pushing the removal tool on both sides near the bottom (vs the top like the photos show) with your index fingers, holding the case with your ring and pinky fingers so that your hands are completely free of the back of the computer (the side with the ports). This worked for me. Otherwise, this guide made the process smooth!

    moorejeffery - 返信

    I had the same issue until I read this comment. Worked as explained. Thanks !!

    marcstonge060698 -

    The removal tool fits into sockets below the board, just 'lean' the tool over and the logic board will ease out. When refitting the logic board make sure the tabs around the I/O shield slip inside the shell and press home firmly. If the fixing screw does not thread into it's hole, the board is not fully home.

    Malcolm Norwood - 返信

    This is what worked for me!

    Rick Allen -

    Make sure you do *not* have your thumbs on the black plastic I/O shield while attempting this step!

    Stephen Reaser - 返信

    I was able to push the logic board out, with a little bit of stress and patience, without the specified tool. Rather I used two paper clips, larger than average, and being very gentle to get the initial nudge. I then finished it off using only my fingers, as the paper clips were not strong enough and would have bended. Doable, but probably easier with the tool.

    mt - 返信

    Even with the tool - it takes more force than you think. There are clips on both sides of the board. Be aware of that when putting it back.

    Jim Allen -

    I used 2 mini flathead screwdrivers with the same thickness as the holes with the heads aligned straight up and down. They will fit into little sockets attached to the case below the board. The side with the power cord came out much easier than the side with the headphone jack, so I removed the tools after a small gap was created and pushed semi-hard on the logic board with a broken spudger (a screwdriver would have worked, too) right in the elbow curve shown to the left of the screw in step 14, and the whole thing slid right out.

    unixmonkey1 - 返信

    I saw a video where a guy just used a coat hanger to make his own tool. Good to know in case you've already started taking it apart and haven't already purchased the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgEBPlz4...

    James Almeida - 返信

    The coat hanger trick worked flawlessly for me. Very easy.

    Jochen -

    May be its me, but I had a right issue with this, I then noticed the screw I loosened in step 10 was bending over. I removed the screw completely, logic board came out, and the metal pillar on the underneath of the board where said screw went in was bent. When I put it all back together afterwards after changing the drive, that long screw was bend, on straightening everything up, the pillar snapped off the logic board. Everything tightened up and its booted up fine. It might just me not following the instructions properly though

    steve - 返信

    Same here. The screw has to be backed out further than I thought. This should maybe be clearer.

    marklfarley -

    For me the screw loosened in step 10 came out with the fan. it "should" be a captive screw meaning it doesn't stay in when the fan comes out

    Bill Pennock - 返信

    I had 2 complete sets of allen wrenches, one metric and one standard and found one each that fit the holes perfectly. With those I was able to find the "pry spots" that are on the base of the case very easily and a slight nudge moved the board. really worked EXCELLENTLY

    Bill Pennock - 返信

    My logic board was hung up on the left side with the plastic retainer or the two grounding tabs not giving up the ghost. There is no good picture of this on this procedure. If you go the the heat sink replacement procedure you can see a pretty good bit of it below the presenter’s right thumb in the opening pic and in a larger pic at step 27. Not that the logic board assembly can move much while seated I was able to shift (ever so slightly) the black plastic backside to the right and the board finally unlatched and came out. I was so worried that I was going to over force it and break something, you know, like the logic board. Not sure if I have a solution other than don’t force it. If it seems hard and one side seems to have a screw or other some such locking device stop forcing it and try shifting the logic board to the side opposite were it is catching.

    Eric Jorgensen - 返信

    I had an issue during reassembly where the AC in socket was just offset and would not line up correctly. I inserted the power cord (unplugged from wall) as I did the final push and everything finally lined up right.

    Austin McGuire - 返信

    One thing about sliding the assembly board in, i.e. when you are doing the steps backwards, is that there is squishy pad on left and clip on the righ (when viewing mac mini from bottom) if you carefully observe and then it becomes easy to get the assembly in or out if you think about it.

    Trushar - 返信

    Though I’m sure the tool would work really well, we were able to trouble shoot this with an old microwave oven tray. We clipped the pieces and they were strong and small enough to help remove the logic tray.

    Kuldip Kainth - 返信

    This step seems like it would be easier with a lot of thin tools like iFixit’s Jimmy being used to release the clips holding the IO panel to the case. It will slide apart with brute force, but until you realize what’s holding it shut, it feels like more force than it reasonable.

    Patrick Friedel - 返信

    As I didn't have the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool, I used two small Alien tools, similar to the Mac mini Logic Board removal tool.

    marcoscaj - 返信

    No clips or screwdrivers. I used my barehands over the air tunnels, that was very quick.

    I’m not sure how safe it is but worked just fine for me.

    Antonio Cuamatzi - 返信

    This was very daunting going in (I had flashbacks of iPhone 4 screen replacements), but turned out to be mostly a breeze. Despite the amount of steps everything inside is very modular and fastened with a minimum number of screws. Logic board module slid right out with very slight pressure on the air vents. Most difficult part was getting the DC connector out and the side clips of the logic board module back in. Much to my surprise, I had it all done in 25 mins. Excellent guide.

    Mitch Russell - 返信

    I used a single mini/ Jewelers philips screw driver #0 that fit perfectly into the hole and he socket at the base. A gentle “lean in” on each hole loosened the board, ready to slide out.

    Torsten Borchers - 返信

  24. DC-Inケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ抜いてください。 DC-Inケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ抜いてください。
    • DC-Inケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ抜いてください。

    When reassembling, I made the mistake of pushing the logic board all the way in before trying to reattach the DC-In cable connector. It is much easier to reattach the connector with the logic board pushed in just short of final seating.

    Saqib Qazi - 返信

    Very usefull comment!!!

    Jean-Marie Sengelen -

    Excellent tip, thank you! I would suggest to @sam that this tip be added to the main steps so that others are more likely to see it. Saved me a lot of potential difficulty!

    Ian Davies -

    very small needle-nose pliers help, when reassembling.

    allanschwartz - 返信

    This is very tricky and to get it off requires a fair bit of (considered) force. Putting it back on I also found a little difficult until I realized it seats slightly lower than you might anticipate. The connector isn’t flush with the top of the motherboard.

    Rob Speight - 返信

    I agree with the comment above. When you’re putting everything back together, take time to see the connector properly before you push the logic board all the way in. It saves a lot of hassle.

    MrSpiral - 返信

    I could not get my big fingers in to grip the wires. I used a small flat bladed screwdriver against the tiny ridge on the top of the connector. I pried against the board.

    mail - 返信

    Use some tweezers to help work out each side as you pull with your fingers.

    Scott Provost - 返信

  25. 注意しながらロジックボードアセンブリをMac miniから外します。このときケーブルを巻き込まないよう気をつけてください。 注意しながらロジックボードアセンブリをMac miniから外します。このときケーブルを巻き込まないよう気をつけてください。
    • 注意しながらロジックボードアセンブリをMac miniから外します。このときケーブルを巻き込まないよう気をつけてください。

    When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

    Richard - 返信

    When sliding the logic board back in, also be careful and make sure the rubber “sock” on the logic board wraps around the AC-in socket on the power supply.

    Anton - 返信

    If you can’t get the logic board assembly back in so that it is flush (as it was before you did your surgery on the machine) then I would pay attention to two things: 1) the “sock.” Make sure it is back in place in the right way. I wish I could tell you which way that is but because there is no picture I had to guess and I can’t remember what my guess was now. 2) the retaining clip in step 26. I was unable to properly seat the logic board back into the machine so that it was flush UNTIL I fooled around with the clip and, I GUESS, put it in properly this time. After I did that I was able to properly push the logic board back into place.

    Christopher Todd - 返信

    These comments just reinforce the fact that iFixit should include reassembly instructions! Just saying to reverse the procedure is not adequate. Reassembly often has unique issues that are not encountered during disassembly.

    kevs - 返信

    Unless it was seated perfectly when the machine was first put together, the “sock” is likely to come off the logic board assembly when you pop the logic board out. To help reassemble, I have this advice:

    1. The sock has two parts, a stiffer rectangle part and a softer oval part with ridges. The oval part goes towards the outside (back) of the board assembly (where all the receptacles are for the external connections); the rectangle goes towards the inside of the machine.

    2. The rectangle has a stiff, rectangular “magnet-like” piece on one side: that’s the bottom. The top has a slight indentation that fits directly under a “clip” piece on the logic board. That clip is pretty much the only thing holding the sock to the board.

    3. The entire sock does not really seat strongly into the logic board, it’s sort of a gravity fit. So don’t look for places to jam things in: just lay the sock in gently and hook it under the clip and just make sure the oval aligns properly around the socket where the AC cord fits in.

    daniel.brotsky - 返信

  26. ロジックボードにヒートシンクを固定している次のネジを外します。 8.6 mm T8 トルクスネジー4本
    • ロジックボードにヒートシンクを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 8.6 mm T8 トルクスネジー4本

    • 2.9 mm T6トルクスネジー1本

    • T8ヒートシンクネジの下に留められたバネを紛失しないようご注意ください。ネジを外した際に一緒に取れてしまいます。

    • 再組み立て中は、ヒートシンクがCPUに対して均等に平らになっているか確認するため、上記のネジを取り付ける際は均等に締めていきます。

  27. ロジックボードからヒートシンクを取り出します。 すべてのネジを取り外した後にヒートシンクがロジックボードに詰まって取れない場合は、スパッジャーの先端を差し込んで2つのコンポーネントを分離すると便利です。 Mac miniを再組み立てする差は、新しいサーマルペーストを塗布してください。塗布方法ガイドを参照してください。
    • ロジックボードからヒートシンクを取り出します。

    • すべてのネジを取り外した後にヒートシンクがロジックボードに詰まって取れない場合は、スパッジャーの先端を差し込んで2つのコンポーネントを分離すると便利です。

    • Mac miniを再組み立てする差は、新しいサーマルペーストを塗布してください。塗布方法ガイドを参照してください。

  28. I/Oポートアンテナケーブルから次のT6トルクスネジを外します:
    • I/Oポートアンテナケーブルから次のT6トルクスネジを外します:

    • ワッシャー付き2.8mmネジ 3本

    • 3.4mmネジ 1本

    • 2.7mmネジ 1本

  29. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源スイッチケーブルコネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源スイッチケーブルコネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源スイッチケーブルコネクタをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  30. スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPortカード上のソケットからアンテナコネクタを持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPortカード上のソケットからアンテナコネクタを持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPortカード上のソケットからアンテナコネクタを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPortカード上のソケットからアンテナコネクタを持ち上げます。

  31. I/Oベゼルをロジックボードに固定している2.7mm T6トルクスネジを4本外します。
    • I/Oベゼルをロジックボードに固定している2.7mm T6トルクスネジを4本外します。

  32. I/OベゼルとUSBポートの間のフォーム製バンパーを取り出します。 I/OベゼルとUSBポートの間のフォーム製バンパーを取り出します。
    • I/OベゼルとUSBポートの間のフォーム製バンパーを取り出します。

  33. I/Oベゼルをロジックボードから引き抜きます。ケーブルが絡まないようにご注意ください。 ロジックボードやI / Oベゼル上の小さなスチールタブに接触しないでください。指についた油脂は通信障害を起こすことがあります。 ロジックボードアセンブリを取り付ける前に、メタル製タブを拭き取り、作業中についた油脂を全て拭き取ります。
    • I/Oベゼルをロジックボードから引き抜きます。ケーブルが絡まないようにご注意ください。

    • ロジックボードやI / Oベゼル上の小さなスチールタブに接触しないでください。指についた油脂は通信障害を起こすことがあります。 ロジックボードアセンブリを取り付ける前に、メタル製タブを拭き取り、作業中についた油脂を全て拭き取ります。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

3 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Sam Goldheart

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Removing the I/O Bezel does not require the removal of the heatsink, so I have edited the guide to reflect as much. This makes the process much less complex.

Liam W - 返信

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