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はじめに
このガイドはロジックボードを交換するための修理ガイドです。
ロジックボードを外すということは、放熱グリスを塗布し直すことが必要です。
Mac Proの作業を始める前に: コンピュータのプラグを抜き、電源ボタンを10秒間長押しして電源のコンデンサを放電してください。
コンデンサのリード線や電源の背面にある露出したはんだ接合部には触れないように十分注意してください。基板は端の方だけを持ってください。
必要な工具と部品
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5.1 mmT10トルクスネジをファンアセンブリアウターケースから外します。
Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.
Jim WIlson - 返信
Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.
D300 = 2GB each card. Very few apps uses two cards at the same time.
Gio Cas -
The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713
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ファンアセンブリを片手で支えながら、ファンケーブルのブラケットに留められたT8非脱落型ネジを緩めます。
On my machine, a TR7 worked to remove them due to the weird angle.
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インターコネクトボードをヒートシンクに固定している6.0 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
Ended up being T9 screws for me.
T8 screws for me, i did and edit to this step
Ended up being T15 screws on my machine
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5.5 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
Step 22 when reassembling, it helps not to fully tighten until you put the screws in from step 20.
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CPUヒートシンクブラケットから12.8 mm T10トルクスネジを4本外します。
I cannot unscrew one of those because I appears that one of the elements in wich it is screwd underneath is loose and moving along with the screw, making this operation impossible. Anyone had this issue ?? Any solution ??
I had the same problem. These screws go into threaded inserts, which in turn are screwed into the heatsink. Both have threadlocker compound applied. So the threaded insert’s threadlocker gives up first, and the threaded insert unscrews from the heatsink. Remove all 4 screws, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, hemostat, or thin 7mm wrench, hold the insert steady and unscrew the screw from it.
Could I remove these screws and re-screw? I worry that remove them but I can’t re-use them?
timmy123 -
I had that problem, too, and I did it like Chuck Fry, with a thin wrench. Unfortunately one threaded insert was so tight that I slipped and a capacitor broke off. Can someone tell me what kind of capacitor I need? I can't find anything under the name listed above the capacitor. Thank you.
A way to avoid this situation is to ease the tension on the spring slowly and rotate the loosening of four screws a few turns at a time – when the tension is released equally the threaded inserts are more likely to stay in place.
I had 2 of those double sided screws stuck like that. I carefully removed them from the motherboard using a small vice grip to hold one side, and a torx on the other. Then reinstalled them using locktite compound. Make sure the heat sink is flush to the motherboard in the same way that you found it, or the assembly will not fit back in the case correctly, indicating the CPU may not be securely attached. The result may be that you think you killed your mac when you turn in on again and just hear the fan spinning like crazy but no chime or boot sequence. If that happens, go back in, reset the double sided screws, and make sure the heatsink is flush. Worked for me.
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CPUのヒートシンクブラケットから長さ12.8 mm T10トルクスネジを4本外します。
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CPUヒートシンクブラケットを取り出します。
On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these screws are covered with a black sticker presumably to indicate tampering. If you did not know they were screws it would not be obvious. You have to just put the T10 driver right in the center and start turning; it quickly breaks through the sticker.
Oh man. Thanks so much for that comment! I would have tried to use pliers!
Also remember to support the CPU (On the other side) while removing these screws. Mine CPU fell out from the other side while loosening.
On my MacPro there are no screws here. On the backside the place where the back of the screws should be are covered with stickers, but removing the stickers simply reveals a rivet. There’s no screw and seemingly no way to remove the CPU.
Wow, glad I clicked comments. I had no clue about the sticker. I was about to use some kind of something to get them out 😂
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CPUとブラケットからロジックボードを持ち上げて取り出します。
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再組み立ての際は、CPU上の放熱グリスを綺麗に除去してから交換します。
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放熱グリスを簡単に交換できるガイドも準備しています。
There is one import piece of information when replacing or upgrading these processors. There are two possible orientations and only one is correct (correct me if I’m wrong!). There’s a small arrow on one corner of the processor that needs to be aligned to the correct side. Just match the orientation of the original processor - this can be difficult or easy to overlook since the tiny alignment arrow is usually covered with thermal paste. Clean the Thermal paste off the old processor before you remove it to see the correct alignment.
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
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The RAM/CPU board is only attached to the thermal core around the processor area. This means seating RAM modules can flex the board (which has no support under the RAM sockets) so take extra care seating RAM modules.
