はじめに
このガイドを使って、CPUを交換しましょう。
ロジックボードを取り外すということは、サーマルコンパウンドを再塗布しなければなりません。
Mac Proを起動する前にコンピューターのプラグを抜き、電源供給装置のコンデンサを放電するために10秒間電源ボタンを長押しします。
細心の注意を払ってくださいコンデンサのリード線や電源供給装置の後ろにあるむき出しのはんだ接合には触れないでください。ボードの端を持つようにしてください。
必要な工具と部品
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5.1 mmT10トルクスネジをファンアセンブリアウターケースから外します。
Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.
Jim WIlson - 返信
Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.
D300 = 2GB each card. Very few apps uses two cards at the same time.
Gio Cas -
The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713
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ファンアセンブリを片手で支えながら、ファンケーブルのブラケットに留められたT8非脱落型ネジを緩めます。
On my machine, a TR7 worked to remove them due to the weird angle.
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インターコネクトボードをヒートシンクに固定している6.0 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
Ended up being T9 screws for me.
T8 screws for me, i did and edit to this step
Ended up being T15 screws on my machine
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5.5 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
Step 22 when reassembling, it helps not to fully tighten until you put the screws in from step 20.
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CPUヒートシンクブラケットから12.8 mm T10トルクスネジを4本外します。
I cannot unscrew one of those because I appears that one of the elements in wich it is screwd underneath is loose and moving along with the screw, making this operation impossible. Anyone had this issue ?? Any solution ??
I had the same problem. These screws go into threaded inserts, which in turn are screwed into the heatsink. Both have threadlocker compound applied. So the threaded insert’s threadlocker gives up first, and the threaded insert unscrews from the heatsink. Remove all 4 screws, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, hemostat, or thin 7mm wrench, hold the insert steady and unscrew the screw from it.
Could I remove these screws and re-screw? I worry that remove them but I can’t re-use them?
timmy123 -
I had that problem, too, and I did it like Chuck Fry, with a thin wrench. Unfortunately one threaded insert was so tight that I slipped and a capacitor broke off. Can someone tell me what kind of capacitor I need? I can't find anything under the name listed above the capacitor. Thank you.
A way to avoid this situation is to ease the tension on the spring slowly and rotate the loosening of four screws a few turns at a time – when the tension is released equally the threaded inserts are more likely to stay in place.
I had 2 of those double sided screws stuck like that. I carefully removed them from the motherboard using a small vice grip to hold one side, and a torx on the other. Then reinstalled them using locktite compound. Make sure the heat sink is flush to the motherboard in the same way that you found it, or the assembly will not fit back in the case correctly, indicating the CPU may not be securely attached. The result may be that you think you killed your mac when you turn in on again and just hear the fan spinning like crazy but no chime or boot sequence. If that happens, go back in, reset the double sided screws, and make sure the heatsink is flush. Worked for me.
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CPUのヒートシンクブラケットから長さ12.8 mm T10トルクスネジを4本外します。
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CPUヒートシンクブラケットを取り出します。
On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these screws are covered with a black sticker presumably to indicate tampering. If you did not know they were screws it would not be obvious. You have to just put the T10 driver right in the center and start turning; it quickly breaks through the sticker.
Oh man. Thanks so much for that comment! I would have tried to use pliers!
Also remember to support the CPU (On the other side) while removing these screws. Mine CPU fell out from the other side while loosening.
On my MacPro there are no screws here. On the backside the place where the back of the screws should be are covered with stickers, but removing the stickers simply reveals a rivet. There’s no screw and seemingly no way to remove the CPU.
Wow, glad I clicked comments. I had no clue about the sticker. I was about to use some kind of something to get them out 😂
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CPUとブラケットからロジックボードを持ち上げて取り出します。
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再組み立ての際は、CPU上の放熱グリスを綺麗に除去してから交換します。
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放熱グリスを簡単に交換できるガイドも準備しています。
There is one import piece of information when replacing or upgrading these processors. There are two possible orientations and only one is correct (correct me if I’m wrong!). There’s a small arrow on one corner of the processor that needs to be aligned to the correct side. Just match the orientation of the original processor - this can be difficult or easy to overlook since the tiny alignment arrow is usually covered with thermal paste. Clean the Thermal paste off the old processor before you remove it to see the correct alignment.
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CPUブラケットからCPUを取り外してください。
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CPUが残ります。
Excellent guide. I upgraded my 6-core CPU to 12-core and it works really fine.
Detaching the CPU didn’t work out initially due to the screws… and finally the re-assembling of the sink bracket is a bit more complicated than it is explained here, but it was an excellent guide anyways.
Thanks!
Excellent guide, thank you. Swapped out the CPU from 6 to 12 core. Need to remember the correct way round for the new CPU in the socket and as others have commented putting the screws back into the CPU brackets can be a little fiddly/worrying all in one.
I just completed this task today, took just under 1.5 hours(forgot to reinstall 2nd heatsink bracket. The spring loaded plate is tough to get the first 2 screws in, but after that it is easy. instructions are clear and concise, I also have serviced these machines before a few years ago, went to leave the outer cover off, powered on but nothing, soon discovered the cover must be installed, was happy when it powered up booted to macOS and verified cpu specs, installed the 3.0GHz 10 core from the 6 core 3.5GHz cpu.
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デバイスを組み立て直すには、これらの手順と逆の順序に従ってください。
デバイスを組み立て直すには、これらの手順と逆の順序に従ってください。
82 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
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46 件のコメント
So this means I can buy the smallest Mac Pro now and upgrade the CPU in a few years, right? I like you guys! :)
Yes, Ben, you could. 2nd hand CpU's are available on eBay, Amazon and various companies. Review suitability of your proposed CPU that it will fit the socket FCLGA2011, and pay attention to voltage. ECC support, and TDP. Switching CPU isn't an easy task and it has risks replacing it.
aramis -
Hi Ben, I found an interesting website with more info regarding CPU upgrade:
https://blog.macsales.com/22230-owcs-mac...
from
aramis -
I just replaced the cheapest 4-core version with the 12 core 2697v2.
This saved me around $700 + i can sell the 4 core.
Can you please provide some benchmarks, i wish to do the same, but need to see if doing this myself creates any problems
How much did it cost for the new CPU? How much did you get for the old one?
Just replace it? No need to change bios?
I didn't need to change anything, no update required: booted into OS X and the CPU was detected.
aramis -
Can / Could I also use an E7?
Peter Reif - 返信
Pete, here are a few places to look for an E7 CPU to see if it will fit/work in the Mac Pro late 2013 with the FCLGA2011 socket. Check for voltage, ECC support and TDP (base 130 watts for default CPU's) and other specs: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/index.h... and search for socket 2011 compatibility. Also, check http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t... , this is Intel's database for its products; it appears only the E7v2 and E7v3 may fit the board. Do your homework and find a suitable CPU. This way I found that my replacement E5-2687Wv2 would work.
aramis -
STEP 23
I can not remove the screws . A screw is changed shape ....
What can I do ? Any help?. I am going wrong .. Thanks so much...!
i had the same issue ! Very strange. I wonder why tho ! Is it because of apple warranty or juste a random issue. I’m gonna have my unit check by some pros …
Got it down to the cpu bracket and I'm now confronted with 4 screws that are round and have no space for a screwdriver. Does anybody have experience with this??? What a nightmare!!!
Jesse Billson and acabanillas00, you've run into Apple's new tamper-evident screw stickers. Before you proceed, please note that removing these screws will leave behind clear evidence to Apple that you've been inside the computer, leaving you no wiggle room on your warranty. To remove the screws, first press down with the T10 screwdriver around the centers of the circles, where you would expect the holes to be, and you'll tear right through the stickers (you may have to blindly rotate the screwdriver a bit to get it to line up correctly, since the stickers conceal the holes). Then, just unscrew as normal.
A couple more notes: new Mac Pro 2013's started shipping with these CPU screw stickers some time in 2015, and if you take an older Mac Pro 2013 in for repair, Apple will quietly add the stickers if, during the repair process, they end up stripping the computer down to the CPU bracket.
I haven't found a satisfactory method for preserving the stickers, nor a replacement, but I imagine it could be done...
Completed E5-1650v2 (default 6-core 3.5GHz CPU) upgrade to an E5-2687Wv2 8-core 3.4GHz CPU. Scariest job done ever. Geekbench 4 results Mono/Multi Core: E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3688/15900 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background, E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3901/17425 after switching off background processes, then E5-2687Wv2 (upgraded CPU) 3989/22447 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background. Comments on the process above: check your bit size prior to applying your driver, as I found just a few screws having a different bit size than explained above (too small i.e. 5 vs 7, or 8). Also, power supply assembly is hard to put back into place as was before: it's all a very tight fit! Don't force, simply retry fitting if it doesn't fit the first time. Extra information: after original CPU removed, it's a bit tricky to get the new CPU in place as you'll be putting the motherboard on TOP of the CPU according to the process above. Hope this helps.
Thanks much for this guide. I just completed installation of an E5-2697v2 (the same 12-core CPU that Apple ships) that I purchased off eBay for $550. I found a few things that were not quite accurate and left notes above in the relevant steps. Basically, both places that claim that the screws are T7 were actually T8 in my machine (apparently assembled in mid-2017 due to the fact that it came with Sierra 10.12.6 installed). Also, as a previous comment noted, my machine also had tamper-evident screws holding the CPU heat sink bracket (step 25). The T10 driver makes short work of the stickers. By far the trickiest part of the reassembly was installing the CPU heat sink bracket. After starting screws on one side of it, it takes considerable force to bend it down enough to get the screws on the other side started. And it’s hard because at the same time you have to keep the CPU from falling out on the opposite side. Really not too hard. Just get a nice work area with plenty of light and keep track of your screws.
Just achieved this, swapping the built-in 4 Cores for a 2d hand E5-2690v2 3GHz 10 core, bought on eBay for 370€ (add 10% for $). Definitely worth the price : multi core geekbench increased from 10600 to 22400 !! Definitely don’t recommend the 2697 which is twice the price for only 10% more power above the 2690
Thanks for the guide !
Just a note : the 2 bottom screws were T8 on mine aswell.
please help me
bronxbcn -
Hello please . Can anybody help me? e bought an E5-2690v2 for my mac pro 6.1 all the perfect change but when it takes a long time of stress working with 4k it shuts down and throws me an error. I do not know what to do I'm desperate I bought it instead of the 2697 for the many comments and for the money I had available now I'm very disappointed I can not find a solution and changed the processor 4 times to discard more components but with the serial 1620 there are no errors but it is much slower please help me :) sorry my english use translator I only speak spanish. thanks greetings
Awesome instructions. Took all of 45 mins
I just installed a E5-2697v2 replacing the 3.7 Quad. What a difference! I’m very pleased. Concerning iFixit’s ‘Difficult” rating I would say it was a breeze for me. I took my time, about 1:45 hours and really found nothing difficult. If your’e handy and careful, it will be fine. I had one slight issue the arose from the stud on the processor chassis came out instead of the screw. I used a 7mm open end wrench to remove from the screw and reattached to the plate. I paid $280 for the 12 core and was well worth it!
Hello. I’ve been trying to get this upgrade to work for a few days. I end up with a system where the fan is running full speed and a “kernel task” is taking up almost all of the CPU. After reading about the CPU and kernel task it seems as though this is a way for the CPU to protect itself. A throttle so to speak. Everything was running well until the upgrade and even a subsequent downgrade back to the original CPU picks up the same issues. I’ve tries PRAM resets and SMC resets. Neither change the CPU/kernel task issue. Is there a missing step? Some sort of reset that needs to be done?
Additionally, I’ve gone the the trouble of replacing the CMOS battery as well. Still no change.
Apple Diagnostics show Reference Code PFM006 and Reference Code PPN001 — Both of which say “There may be an issue with your power management controller (SMC)”
Following Apples posted instructions for SMC reset doesn’t do anything.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that PRAM “zapping” doesn’t work nor do simple things like software reboot or shutdown. As if the SMC really isn’t able to do what it is supposed to do. When I do a restart the system will either shutdown (and not reboot) or just flip back to the login screen. Also when you power on then hold the Command - Option - “P” & “R” keys it just shuts down but not reboot.
A run-down of things I’ve tried.
Environment - At the start.
2 Mac Pro 2013s
1 - 4 core 3.7MHZ, 2 TB SSD (Feather M13-S SSD) 128 GB RAM
1 - 4 core 3.7MHZ, 256 GB SSD (Factory OEM) 12 GB RAM
Both were working just fine prior to CPU upgrade attempt
After CPU upgrade the following symptoms:
Fan running at full speed. (using a fan control program is not a good option - see below)
Kernel Task taking up all of the CPU resulting in super slow response.
After Downgrade back to factory CPUs the same issues persist.
Have tried the following:
Down grade CPU (no change)
Reset SMC (the apple way and also the rEFIt/rERInd way)
PRAM reset
Several attempts at different amounts of thermal paste
Several different CPU bracket tightnesses- less tight and the way it comes from the factory (bracket arms all the way to the logic board). *** in the OWC video method, you will have trouble replacing the PowerSupply unit because the CPU bracket screws will be too high. There seems to be some disagreement about what is either even possible or recommended based on the they original state)
Clean OS install from both High Sierra and Mojave
Set and reset all cables and connectors
Found a “button on the control board" (not documented but very near the SMC chip) see attached picture (purple circle) *not documented in the public sphere. — nothing seemed any different after pressing it and or pressing it and holding it.
Current State - Both Mac Pros (one with the 12 core cpu and one with the factory 4 core) boot but are severely CPU throttled and fan running at full speed. Neither are really usable. There must be something missing that this would happen across two nearly identical computers.
Ran Apple Diagnostics results with the following errors - Reference Code PFM006 and Reference Code PPN001 — Both of which say “There may be an issue with your power management controller (SMC)
Any and all help really appreciated.
Hi John, The kernel_task was the symptom I have. I was told the issue is the thermal conductive paste on the heatsinks is old and must be replaced. 放熱グリスの塗布方法
hey josh, have you found a solution for your problem? I’ve changed my cpu and am running into the same issues.. did all the resets, checked all the cables but to no avail.
Same here, have you check both GPU are available?
Riccardo -
I’ve done a number of these - going from 4 or 6 core up to 12 core. Straightforward thanks to this guide.
Makes the 6,1 a more attractive unit to me as you can buy one inexpensively and then update the storage (2 TB Intel 660p most recently) and the CPU (E5-2697v2 was $180 on eBay), and RAM (if necessary). I’d go for a D500 unit - the D700 and D300 models seem to have the most issues.
Thank you for your instruction, I replaced 4-core version with 12-core E5 2697 v2, SSD from 256GB to 1TB with Kingston A2000 series, DRAM from 12GB to 64GB.
Hi dears
i change mine Mac cpu to the E5-2697.
and then it can be switch on. After I change back the factory one. It is not working anymore.
Can u help me solve out the problem???
Rice
hold1119@gmail.com
Hey, did u get an answer on your problem? or how did u fix it?
thanks!
niels@sinne.org
Niels -
Hi there,
pardon me for the ‘easy’ question but…
Is correct if I remember a double processor unit?
If yes the logic board is the same for one and two sockets or are two different models?
Thanks a lot,
Fabio
Thank you for the guide. Just successfully upgraded from 6-core (Xeon E5-1650 v2) to a 12-core (Xeon E5-2697 v2). According to Arctic silver, the Xeon E5 uses the "vertical line" method for the thermal paste though I ended up doing the spread instead (like in the OWC youtube video) and not seeing any issues.
Regarding the performance difference, according to Geekbench 5 scores (best scores out of 22 runs):
6-Core
Single-Core=869
Multi-Core=4784
12-core (vs. 6-core)
Single-Core=797 (-8%)
Multi-Core=7296 (+33%)
I was surprised how little single-core performance was lost while gaining so much on the multi-core side.
I have upgraded a 4-core Mac Pro 2013 to a 12-core CPU. Not too difficult. I advise doing this to old Mac Pros because the thermal paste needs to be replaced occasionally. One option is to replace the 4-core 3.7 GHz Xeon E5 with the 3.7 GHz 6-core Xeon E5. This CPU was never used by Apple but is now available on eBay for about $100. Two extra cores and maximum possible speed in single-core applications!
Gulp. Got all the way to the inside, but then the final four internal screws holding the CPU (step 23) have solid caps! No Torque screw hole in them! What the heck! Has anyone seen this? And if so, how the heck do you remove those?
Saw this above! Yay!
you've run into Apple's new tamper-evident screw stickers. Before you proceed, please note that removing these screws will leave behind clear evidence to Apple that you've been inside the computer, leaving you no wiggle room on your warranty. To remove the screws, first press down with the T10 screwdriver around the centers of the circles, where you would expect the holes to be, and you'll tear right through the stickers (you may have to blindly rotate the screwdriver a bit to get it to line up correctly, since the stickers conceal the holes). Then, just unscrew as normal.
A couple more notes: new Mac Pro 2013's started shipping with these CPU screw stickers some time in 2015, and if you take an older Mac Pro 2013 in for repair, Apple will quietly add the stickers if, during the repair process, they end up stripping the computer down to the CPU bracket.
I haven't found a satisfactory method for preserving the stickers, nor a replacement, but I imagine it could be done...
Greg Fay -
I have replaced the four-core CPU on my Max Pro with a six-core Intel® Xeon® Processor E5-1660 v2—six cores with the same 3,7 GHz speed.
Now that old Max Pros 6.1 are available for almost nothing, it's worth following the instructions just to replace the old, dried-out thermal paste.
The T7 Torx isn't actually used. BTW.
