この翻訳は、ソースガイドの最新の更新を反映していない可能性があります。 翻訳の更新に協力してください。 または ソースガイドを参照してください。
必要な工具と部品
-
-
ケースを取り出した後は、タブレットを裏返し、スクリーンを下側に配置します。
Can you be clearer about what you mean here? I also think you could combine this with the next step, and maybe mark up this image to show where the connector is.
-
-
-
スクリーンに装着されたZIFコネクタを慎重にJimmyナイフを使ってこじ開けます。
-
先端にゴムチップが付いたピンセットを使って、コネクタを慎重に引き抜きます。
Proofread carefully for capitalization and end punctuation—this is the last time I’m marking these errors. How can I pry open the connector? What tool are you using here? How can I pull out the connector?
-
-
-
温めたiOpener(もしくはヒートガン)をスクリーンの端に沿ってデバイスを温めます。
-
開口ピックを使って、スクリーンの端を慎重にこじ開けます。
When you’re using tools, make sure to identify them. Check this throughout all guides.
-
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
6 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
88%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
チーム
Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, Team S1-G5, Watkins Fall 2019 Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, Team S1-G5, Watkins Fall 2019人のメンバー
ERAU-WATKINS-F19S1G5
4 メンバー
10のガイドは作成済み
8 件のコメント
I just completed this tutorial. I feel it is missing some important steps/tips.
STEP 1 - Pry open using a plastic pry tool. Do not be afraid to use a little force after you have gone around the edges since there are plastic clips in the middle of the back panel. DO NOT insert any pry tools deep inside to pry it open. You could damage some wiring or the motherboard itself. Just use your hand and don’t try to go to fast.
STEPS 2 is good
STEP 3 - DO NOT use a metal tools at any time during this step. Use a small plastic pry tool to lift up the BACK part of the ZIF connector until it is vertical. It should not take much force at all. Do not try to pull the flex out prior to this step or you will damage the flex and/or the socket. once the ZIF socket is unlocked (vertical), you should be able to pull the display flex out by hand - NO BIG OR FAST MOVEMENTS.
STEP 4 - if using heat gun, use low heat and heat evenly. heat up the flex a little before transferring.
STEP 5 - I used 2 sided tape to replace the stock adhesive
Never mind gorilla glass -- Amazon used gorilla glue all around the screen/digitizer. In an hour of alternate heatgun, razor, and pry tool work, I got one corner and about 10cm of one edge free. An Amazon-refurbished tablet goes for $60-$75; unless you value your time (and curses) very little, I can't recommend this project.
Where are the steps to actually replace the screen? I only see the steps to remove the screen
Pretty much put the screen back in after connecting the flex cable; make sure you an adhesive around the frame before installing the new screen of course, I have one today I am doing, ill probably use 1-2 sizes of Tessa tape when I do this.
I would absolutely NOT recommend you try this, unlike the ipads the screen an digitizer are very difficult to seperate, ipad was actually easier than this was. Save your money either take it to a repair shop or buy a new device. In my case the crack went through the screen an into the visualizer, it is almost expensive to buy a new screen as a new device. Best of luck.
Hey my iPad has a crack on it but it still works anyways I need a guide steps to fix it without replacing it I just got it today
7th gen Fires don't have a beveled back like in the photos. That looks like a 4th gen model. The 7th gen and newer have rounded edges and a flat back. The screen is glued to the chassis. You need to heat it up to about 65°C to soften the adhesive, and a suction cup to pull it away from the body to the tablet.
Notary Sojac - 返信