はじめに
このガイドを使って、Kindle 3のキーボードを交換します。破損したキーボードを交換するためにデバイスを解体する方法を扱っています。
必要な工具と部品
-
-
-
画像で示した位置に留められた、6本のシルバープラスネジ を外します。
The components look slightly different from mine, eg there is a plastic covering the hard drive. what model is yours?
-
-
-
上部端から持ち上げて、マザーボード全体とミッドフレームアセンブリを一緒にKindle本体端からスライドして取り出します。作業は慎重に行なってください。
When lifting it out, it seemed to be affixed to something at the far bottom right corner (relative to the above photo), and required a bit of tugging before popping free, which was a bit alarming. Not sure where it was stuck. Was definitely lifting it away from the base first before lifting too far up.
Also this is a good point to be reminded not to lose the little battery washers from earlier (step 3) if you decided to be smart and leave them on the board! Remove them and place them with the screws.
-
-
-
破損したキーボードを交換します。
-
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
9 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›
4 件のコメント
It works, but seriously overdoes the dismantling required . I just did this on a wifi 3g version (serial number started with B00A) and it took less than 30 minutes.
Steps 2,3 and 4 .You don't need to remove the silver screws holding the battery, the 3g unit or the inner ones on the black bit at lower right. None of them hold the board to the case, but ALL the grey screws do.
Step 5 You only need to undo the ribbon cable to the screen (marked orange) - the others don't need disturbing and are hard to put back correctly.
Steps 6 & 7 - Skip these.
Step 8 - the whole board lifts out - start at the top and be gentle - in case you've missed a screw or two.
Rebuilding - best to test before putting all the screws back, and refit the back starting at the switch end rather than the top or sides.
Thanks for the guide. Used to strip down a device saturated with suntan lotion. Per Dave’s comments I skipped detaching the extra ribbon connectors, but needed to take out most of the silver screws to get the main boards apart. I also wanted to detach the battery before wading in with contact cleaner and baby buds. Now back working a treat. Daniel
This guide no longer includes any extra/unnecessary steps—the above comments refer to an old version of the guide.
Ah, I put it on in the wrong order, then figured out that starting at the bottom works best. I did the bottom, top and corners and then the sides, because I already had the top done.
kwood - 返信
BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!! 15mm below the "next page" button was directly where the flex cable was. And it is an extremely fragile cable, even for flex cables. Which means I, of course, tore right through it without knowing until I got the cover off. So don't do that. Start 15mm above the lower corner, if anything, or start on the opposite side. Starting on the side with a single-point-of-failure is a really risky choice. The opposite side has basically nothing up against the edge, so you're free to poke it.
The other thing that isn't stated here is that the flex cable is inherently tied into the screen. Which means that if you, like me, damage that cable, the entire screen now broken and needs replacing. And if you, like me, was just trying to replace the battery or the motherboard, now it just makes sense to replace the entire device, both environmentally and financially. Whomp whomp.
bhurwitz - 返信
As is, the guide sets you up SPECIFICALLY to DAMAGE THE SCREEN by prying into its very delicate ribbon cable.
A Kenny - 返信
Apart from the buttons, are there any other specific places where we shouldn't pry, because it would damage something?
okojoijohoij - 返信
There are clips a several centimeters from the edge of the Kindle across from the page-turning buttons. Undoing these clips was the most difficult part of opening the back of the Kindle. Be careful and take your time here.
It's a good idea to start on at the left page-turning button to help minimize risk of damage to the flex cable.
John Thoreson - 返信