はじめに

ラップトップに2枚目のハードドライブを加えると、スピードの改善や容量の増大、新しいソフトウェアをインストールした際にダメージが小さくなるという沢山の利点があります。

  1. 底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。
    • 底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。

      • 13.5(14.1)mm プラスネジー3本

      • 3 mm プラスネジー7本

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - 返信

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - 返信

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - 返信

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - 返信

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - 返信

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - 返信

    for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

    mindful - 返信

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - 返信

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - 返信

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - 返信

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - 返信

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - 返信

    Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

    Danno - 返信

    Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

    If so, what is the best way to do this?

    Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

    Sibyl Smith - 返信

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - 返信

  2. 両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。
    • 両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。

    • 底ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

    After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

    Januar Wiyogo - 返信

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - 返信

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - 返信

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - 返信

    • ※特定の修理(ハードディスクドライブなど)の場合はバッテリーを取り外す必要はありませんが、マザーボード上で誤ってショートさせてしまうのを防ぐ事が出来ます。バッテリーを外さない場合は、マザーボード上の部品が帯電している可能性があるので注意してください。

    • ナイロンスパッジャーの端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをメイン基板上のソケットから持ち上げてください。

    • ソケットから接続を外す際、コネクターの縦側の両サイドを上向きに持ち上げると簡単です。

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - 返信

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - 返信

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - 返信

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret - 返信

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - 返信

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - 返信

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

    r1m111 - 返信

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - 返信

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - 返信

    • バッテリケーブルをソケットから離すように少し曲げておき、作業中に誤ってメイン基板に接触しないようにします。

    Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

    Paul Palm - 返信

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - 返信

    • カメラケーブルのコネクタを基板上のソケットから接続を外します。

    • 基板からコネクタを外す際に、ケーブルを持ち上げないでください。ケーブルは基板の平面と平行に引っ張ります。

    That's exactly what I did. I did not pay attention. Where do I find a replacement?

    Erikmendez - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからAirPort/Bluetoothを引き離します。

    コメントを追加する

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットから光学ドライブコネクタを引き離します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 次の2つのネジを外します。

      • これらのネジは通常とは違って滑りやすいためご注意ください。ネジを外す際にはしっかりと下に押し込みます。作業を始める前に下のコメントを参照してください(英語)。

      • 8.6 mmプラスネジー1本

      • 3.9 mm プラスネジー1本

    • 下部ケースからAirPort/Bluetooth ボードハウジングを手に取り、(AirPort/Bluetooth ケーブルがまだ装着されたまま)回転させます。

    Beware of step 8. Screws strip extremely easily. For some reason, that are extremely tough to get out and the metal is extremely soft so you are likely to screw yourself over real quick even if you use the right screwdriver. Happened to me and now it's impossible for me to take the @$%# thing off so I have to return my HDD bay and deal with having a useless disc drive.

    Alex Pascal - 返信

    I got burned here also. Unfortunately iFixit defaults to comments off, so I didn't see this until it was too late.

    eawortman -

    Yes, and I got stuck on step 8 for this simple task. Is there no way we can get the drive out while leaving the wireless/bluetooth board in place? I prefer to drill a small hole in the plastic of the board to reach the drive's screw underneath and find a way to slide it out towards the hard disk side.

    Albert Kok - 返信

    I had the same thing happen with the 3.9 mm screw. To remove the drive afterwards I used a 1/16" drill bit to carefully remove the (stripped) screw head. I left most of the screw threads intact, and the remaining "post" is enough to hold the airport/bluetooth fixture in place with the one remaining screw. These are some seriously soft screws, folks, be careful!

    Steve - 返信

    i also screwed the screw, never saw a screw this soft. Still figuring out how to "unlock" it again...

    KlawWarYoshi - 返信

    Hmm. well, unfortunately after putting everything back together, my trackpad no longer works, and I can't login to my computer. removing the dual drive caddy and closing it back up returns trackpad functionality, but I really want the extra drive space. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Russell Humphress - 返信

    Hey, I got same problem on trackpad

    Did you solve the issue? I wanna use trackpad

    Help me

    earthmakery -

    Does anyone know the part number of the 3.9mm screw? It got chewed up the second I tried to loosen it..had to get a 3.5mm drill bit and gently remove the head. I was able to remove the remain piece of the screw, and would of course like to replace this thing..

    Ole Andre - 返信

    Well. I too stripped the head on the left side screw. First I used a cheap #000 screwdriver. Stripped the head and the driver. Not realizing just how bad I had stripped the screw I got a #0000 and the right one came out. I made sure to apply firm downward pressure to minimize slip. The left side was to far gone. So...

    I broke the housing. Yep. I'm a brute.

    Anyway. I rolled it up out of the case as if I had actually removed the screw. Only to realize I don't have a T6. [facepalm]. I've spent way too much time just getting that #0000. I'll order myself a nice kit for future 'repairs'.

    Oh and yes, the bluetooth and wifi work just fine. The right screw and the tight fitting of the housing seem to keep it in place ok.

    David Couch - 返信

    Also stripped the right screw, taking to to Apple Genius Bar, hopefully they can get it out...

    Adrian - 返信

    I also failed here.... How can i unscrew both screws if the star of the head is destroyed??

    Alex de Graaff - 返信

    I located the part number for the 2 easily stripped screws in this step. The 3.9mm is Apple part 922-8974 and the 8.6mm is Apple part 922-9107 pbparts.com has them available for $2 each.

    Hope this helps, it was not easy to track down.

    Roger - 返信

    I too stripped the screw on the right, and while I tried a few basic things to remove the screw, eventually I drilled out the screw head so I could remove the airport/bluetooth housing. Only the head came off, enough to free the housing, but it sits pretty snugly on there with just the one screw and that's enough for me.

    mainframe - 返信

    The part numbers from Roger on Feb 11 aren't right. They were too large.

    dan Lim - 返信

    Hi, Dan. The Apple part numbers supplied were used to order exact replacements now in my MBP 15. I have also checked them against Apples official Screw Chart for the MBP 15. I am very sorry you have been supplied the wrong screws but the part numbers listed are correct.

    Roger - 返信

    Alright, Genius bar just made it worse, ended up taking a drill to it hoping to break the head off so I could pull it out bit it just wouldn't come off. In the end I pushed a flat screw driver down as hard as I could and It shifted.

    I know many of you wont want to put a drill to your shiny (expensive) mac, but the screw is surrounded and strong so you wont break through or damage anything.

    Just have a steady hand ;)

    Adrian - 返信

    I stripped both screws before reading these comments- disaster.

    The only reason for removing these screws is so you can get access to the Torx screw beneath the Bluetooth/wireless board (ie the top left screw circled red in step 9). I Had the idea of drilling directly into the black wireless/Bluetooth plastic board directly above this top left Torx screw shown in step 9. I could then use a long thin Torx screwdriver to reach through the hole and unscrew it, without having to remove the stripped screws holding the wireless/Bluetooth board in place at all. Be careful drilling into the board(!), but worked perfectly for me. Once the Torx screws are removed, it just takes a bit of jiggling to carefully remove the optical drive out from under the board, and put the hd drive in.

    If you're reading this before having stripped the two screws, I'd recommend not even trying to unscrew the Bluetooth board and just drill a hole in it, assuming you have steady hands. I'll try to upload a photo to show what I mean.

    Laurence - 返信

    I’ll second this - seemed a bit daunting at first but with a stripped screw and no screw extractor my options were limited. Having weighed up the options and carefully studying the pictures I decided that Laurence’s idea was feasible (if not a little leftfield!). I carefully marked out an educated estimate of where the screw would be under the black wireless/Bluetooth plastic board (you can see it from the side so used this plus the images supplied here) and drilled, firstly with a 1.5mm to mark the spot and then with a larger 4mm. Obviously this needs to be done very carefully so you do not continue and drill into the torque 6 screw you are trying to get to, but once the hole was drilled my bit reached down to the screw and could *carefully* be lifted up and through the newly created hole. Once the screw has been removed, along with the other 2 torque 6 screws in this step, the optical drive / caddy will slide out as opposed to being lifted vertically out in the instructions, but this proved little hassle

    Andy -

    That worked for me too :) Thanks for the hint!

    Dim Petrakiev -

    Hello there, I'm looking for some help. I am planning on doing this "procedure". I have the 54 Bit Driver set from iFixIt. If I have to unscrew the 8.6 mm Phillips screw and 3.9 mm Phillips screw. What bits should I use from the 54 Bit Kit? The PH1, PH0, PH00, PH000? I really don't want to strip the screw, which one should I use?

    Josh - 返信

    Josh I would use the PH00 bit from the 54 Bit Kit. Apple use a different non standard screw head design to Phillips which does not have the cam-out geometry and uses a pointed tip. The PH0 and PH00 bits are a reasonable approximation. I have to say that even with the best match between the screwdriver and screw they may still strip as the original screws seem to be made of painted cheese. If that happens you could try using a tough steel small flat screwdriver bit to drill/scrape out a round hole in the screw head and then gently force in the next largest slotted bit. This has worked for me twice.

    Roger -

    As a warning i had to take a near new refurbished mid 2012 MacBook Pro into Apple to have a missing/stripped bottom case screw repaired under warranty and in the process of taking it apart they stripped five more screws and damaged the LCD screen cable, upper case and keyboard, speaker, Bluetooth module and several other assemblies. It was all repaired properly under warranty but it took over 2 weeks and the only original parts I got back were the logic board and baseplate. Some of these MacBook Pro's are a real challenge and come with stuck and sometimes pre stripped screws from the factory. Take your time and remember Apple keep all the screws at genius bars, if you ask nicely and give the the Apple part number they are often happy to fit them for you. Good Luck!

    Roger -

    I found success using the CR-V 1.5 bit without stripping either screw head.

    Firmly plant the tip and maintain pressure throughout unscrewing and re-screwing.

    Use a magnet if needed to get the 3.9mm screw out.

    chris - 返信

    Hi,

    I've mailed with pbparts and got the clarification:

    * http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9229107... = 8.6mm screw

    * http://www.pbparts.com/shop.php//9228974... = 3,9mm screw

    PBParts said: Measurements from iFixit are better than the printed length by Apple manuals. I'll give these screws a try.

    Robin Kluth - 返信

    All you need to unscrew the short screw (and don't screw up) is a soldering iron. You should apply heat to aluminum column located below the head of the screw. Loctite-like glue in thread loses its grip when heated, so you probably will unscrew that little bastard without any issues. It worked for me, even with semi-stripped head!

    Dvadzatdva - 返信

    Just use Philips #000 bit and put pressure.

    Filip - 返信

    Siht. I screw up the screw too. And then I realize there are 24 comments in this step. Now I make 25 of it. That little fcuking 3.9mm...

    Anyway, so I drilled that striped screw head with 3mm tip, totally striped that screw so seperated rim, removed Airport supports, there still 1mm of screw steam thingy, got rid of that using small nipper, put new screw in.

    Use very, I mean very sharp even your finger bleed when touch the edge of small screw driver. Regular #0 or #00 driver will distroy your screw head.

    Anonymous - 返信

    I stripped the screw on the right, and finally got it out with one of the screw extractors sold by iFixit: Precision Screw Extractor Set

    anonymous 5548 - 返信

    I used a Philips PH000 with applied pressure and the screws came out fine.

    jasonmartinegoudy - 返信

    Made same mistake here (rushed through the directions and didn't even notice the warning!). I completely stripped the smaller screw but I was able to get it out easily with an extractor drill bit, the kind readily available in hardware stores (Grabit Micro was the brand name here in the U.S.). Ordered a replacement screw from pbparts re the advice above (thanks for the part number!).

    yonidass - 返信

    Stripped this one too. I think it was fixed in with Locktite. Had to buy a Grabit Micro to remove it. Started with the #1 but when I reversed the bit it wouldn't catch. Thought I would have to drill it out completely, but tried with the #2 and the hole drilling end of the bit caught in the hole I'd already drilled with the #1. If you're about to follow through these instructions I would make sure to have some Grabit drill bits or other stripped screw removal tools on hand before you start.

    Kevin Hooke - 返信

    I was able to do this step very easy with a Philips #0 instead. I guess sometimes its better to go bigger than smaller.

    Nils - 返信

    I have done it using an 1,5 mm cross slot screwdriver from a screwdriver set by LIHAO (I bought it at Amazon). First, ensure that the screwdriver is well fitted into the screw head, then press down and try to turn it(without forcing it!). If the screw does not turn easily, stop, take out the screw driver and repeat the process till the screw get loose. Be patient, take your time and keep in mind that your main priority is to preserve the heads of the cheese screws

    Catalina - 返信

    I got it out with no trouble by using a Moody Phillips #2006 .100" (the one recommended by iFixit for this repair), and by using very firm pressure and very gentle rotation, checking at about an 1/8 turn to see if the screw was turning or stripping.

    David Albertsen - 返信

    For what it's worth, on my 2011 MBP 17", the bluetooth/wireless unit was held down with two flat-head phillips screws; the one on the left, the 8.6 was attached to the metal clip just to the right of it in the picture. It came out very easily. The one on the right definitely had some kind of loctite adhesive, but eventually I got it free with firm, quick short twists. Didn't strip. Also, the torx screws on the superdrive were all phillips heads as well. Not sure if that's a 17" thing or what. Thanks!

    Joe Mac - 返信

    Although these screws look like PH00 Philips heads, if you’ve got one of the iFixit toolkits, the best driver to use is the J000 or JIS000 driver. Unless the screws have been terribly stripped, it’ll pop them out effortlessly every time.

    something2sea - 返信

    These comments saved me a lot of trouble with my swap of drives.  Unfortunately the donor Mac had both screws stripped and I had to drill those out; took me about 10 minutes to accomplish.

    Thanks for pointing this out and posting it.

    Ken Short - 返信

    I took a different method with these screws. I removed the black coating from the head of the screw with a sewing needle and a small bit of acetone while using a magnifier. This got it right down to shiny metal inside which I believe helped make better contact with the Phillips bit. I also took a small file to the bit to sharpen it like new. These screws came right out for me with just this little bit of advance prep.

    Mike Jones - 返信

    • 上部ケースに光学ドライブを固定している3.5 mm T6トルクスネジを3本外します。

    I actually found this section to be the most difficult, the T6 screws are soft as butter, apply plenty of pressure when removing. The one towards the front of the laptop looking from the back is the most problematic.

    Richard Howell - 返信

    Does anyone know where I can get replacements for these 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws without spending a fortune on the entire screw set? It looks like this site doesn't sell them and online searches have not turned up any sources either!

    jettoblack - 返信

    I had a hard time putting these screws back in with the HDD bracket. It looks like the bracket doesn't leave room for the bolt heads, so they go in at an angle. I tried for a while getting them lined up just right, but eventually gave up and now I'm pretty sure those T6 are cross-threaded into the aluminium. =( The original optical bay does have room for the bolt heads so they stay vertical.

    jfcaron3 - 返信

    What is the trick to getting these screws back in? I have been at it for a while and seems near impossible. Putting these ridiculously tiny screws back in has been by far the hardest part of the whole ordeal.

    jeleno - 返信

    • 光学ドライブコネクタ付近の光学ドライブを持ち上げて、上部ケースから離してデバイスから取り出します。

    コメントを追加する

    • 光学ドライブから光学ドライブケーブルを引き抜きます。

    • ケーブル自体ではなく、コネクターの端を持ってください。

    • 小さなメタル製マウンティングブラケットに固定された、2本の黒色#0プラスネジを外します。このブラケットを新しい光学ドライブやハードドライブの筐体に移してください。

    I found that placing the SSHD back into the laptop was a major issue; it was a very tight fit back into the rest of the machine.

    joelfirenze - 返信

    Mine too. I'm going to retry back in original position which is less likely to overhead or be shocked because no rubber mounts

    Failing that buy a WD 7mm drive which is not ideal.

    Andrew -

    Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.

    Oliver Creighton - 返信

    • プラスチックのスペーサーを光学ベイドライブの筐体からどちらかの側に付けられたクリップを押し込み、持ち上げて外します。

    The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)

    But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?

    Nina Nokia -

    Early 2011 MacBook Pro was running slow with its 2TB hard drive running at 5400rpm. The DVD drive was almost never used. The iFixit part allowed me to place the hard drive in the DVD bay and place an SSD drive where the hard drive originally sat. Now the computer fires up almost instantly and runs so much cooler as the 2TB hard drive is only accessed as needed. A stunning transformation for a 7 year old laptop.

    Paul Cline - 返信

    • ハードドライブコネクタは筐体に取り付ける前に、正面が下向き担っているか確認してください。

    • 丁寧にハードドライブを筐体のハードドライブスロットに取り付けます。

    • 片手でしっかりと筐体を取り付ける位置に固定しながら、もう一方の手でハードドライブを筐体のコネクタに押し込んでください。

    It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

    nicholas - 返信

    Good to know, thanks!

    zondervon -

    No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

    Mike - 返信

    I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

    Mike - 返信

    I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

    Carl - 返信

    Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

    Andrew -

    Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

    Carl - 返信

    Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.

    danielsam55 -

    I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.

    danielsam55 -

    I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.

    danielsam55 -

    I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD

    danielsam55 -

    My understanding is that SSDs will work (at 6Gbps) in the optical bay of late-2011 13" MBP models but not in late-2011 15" or 17" models and not in earlier 13" models. Are those of you reporting problems installing on late-2011 13" models (MD313LL/A [2.4Ghz] or MD314LL/A [2.8 GHz])?

    Steve - 返信

    I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.

    For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?

    My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)

    woestmab - 返信

    My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.

    Steve -

    I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.

    Thanks

    woestmab -

    Many people have this problem and they all had the 2011 MBP model. The SATA controllers are both 6Gb/s on optic drive and HDD from 2012 (mid 2012 anyway). And of course we're talking about the non-retina. The last non-retina came out mid 2012.

    maniajami - 返信

    I just installed a Crucial M200 6 GB/s ssd in a 2012 15" Macbook Pro, working without issues. It seems the 2011 models are problematic.

    Martin G - 返信

    Whats the size of this caddy?

    Looks like no one has any clue. I can see following sizes:

    12.7mm universal

    12.7mm unibody

    9.5mm universal

    9.5mm unibody

    I have a macbook pro mid 2012 non retina

    saran3h.bansal - 返信

    • ハードドライブが装着できたら、ハードドライブを筐体の下部に向かって押さえ込みながら、プラスチックのスペーサーを挿入します。

    Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

    Kamiiyu - 返信

    Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

    Bart - 返信

    Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

    Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    • 筐体にドライブを固定している#1プラスネジを2本外します。

    With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

    jjsanderson - 返信

    At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

    mainframe - 返信

    • 光学ドライブのブラケットを新しい筐体に#0のプラスネジを2本取り付けます。

    • オリジナルの光学ドライブから外したケーブルは光学ベイドライブの筐体に取り付けてください。

    I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

    toddfletcher - 返信

    Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

    claude - 返信

    Mate,

    My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

    I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

    My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

    I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

    So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

    I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

    Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

    You can't go back, apparently.

    So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

    I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

    Rory -

    it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

    elvin00 - 返信

    simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.

    gator6 - 返信

    This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...

    Steve -

    I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

    roger hall - 返信

    This is really for step 23: reassembly

    You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?

    I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.

    eetech - 返信

    Hi,

    I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!

    So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.

    I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.

    So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?

    All help is welcome!

    Thanks,

    Leon

    Leon - 返信

    Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.

    Rafael Borges -

    No, afraid not..

    Leon -

    also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd

    cmaizan -

    Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.

    Simon Abrams -

    Did you ever find a solution?

    I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.

    drguttridge -

    Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

    Brian M -

    Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!

    Brian M -

    Same problem happens, i don’t know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks

    jimmychan1007 -

    Hi!

    I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.

    I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!

    Julie

    Julie Odeursa - 返信

    I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.

    zondervon -

    I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

    First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

    Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

    I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

    But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

    What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

    So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

    Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

    Wish you all luck :)

    rybafly - 返信

    Hi all,

    I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?

    Any help would be very much appreciated.

    Steven Vacher - 返信

    Dear iFixit

    I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.

    I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.

    When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.

    So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.

    Is this a problem i can fix with software?

    Thx for the help!

    Jonas Lesage - 返信

    Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.

    Oliver Creighton - 返信

    • ハードドライブをまだ捨てないでください!SATA光学ドライブUSBケーブルがあれば、外付けで光学ドライブをまだ使用することができます。

    • ケーブルのSATAコネクタをドライブの端子に注意しながら接続します。

    • USBコネクタをラップトップに接続して、光学ドライブを使用できる状態にします。

    There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

    Joseph Landry - 返信

    my drive’s connector is nothing like that, and I’m wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?

    grantdavis - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

138 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Jake Devincenzi

メンバー登録日: 2011年04月18日

106,102 ポイント

57のガイドは作成済み

ho riscontrato problema all'hd collegato nell'optibay ...

fenixpoint - 返信

Usually there is a point in any project where I can say to myself (if no one else), "What idiot wrote this?" or "These instructions were clearly written for a different widget because I do not have the same Part A in figure 12!!!" There is also usually a place where the determination has to be made on whether I saved enough of the packaging to return the product and claim some deficiency and try to get my money back because I broke something or there was a "weird spark and resulting small fire." I've grown so accustomed to my own failure or instructions written by someone using Google as their sole translator into the English language, that i NEVER expect to really succeed with something like this. Incredibly well written and fool proof. Thank you for taking the time and getting it 100% dead-on right! FANTASTIC! You have restored my faith in humanity!

John Fitzgerald - 返信

from times to times my second hard drive in the optical drive / HDD adaptator no longer shows up as if it was disconnected. what to do with that ? I think its whenever inactive my mac forgets about it

Martin Bougaud - 返信

Caddy + 1TB hybryd drive installed

additional 500 GB ssd no problem trim enabled

Mac recognises caddy hdd as “Remote disc”

not seen in disk Utility even as hidden

formatted ok externaly & works fine same with original 750 hdd with os on ??

spins up but shows as remote disc & is inaccessible by any disk Utility or recovery programme

been on so many forums, no answer. Now seriously thinking it cannot be done.

Wont accept firmware updates

going to try installing back to matn lion then install firmware off that? Also got a hdd cable on order to try as a temporary measure as opposed to SATA ?

got another short opti SATA cable on order also just incase, I tried the insulation tape trick on the connector also?

Thats all my ideas used up after that, I think I will have covered just about everything possible?

any ideas

cheers in advance

Rich Tame - 返信

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