はじめに
Here's what you'll need:
- a screwdriver
- a little bit of a steady hand
- preferably use an anti-static device so you don't fry any chips on the mainboard!
in most cases it will void your warranty! which doesn't cover this issue anyway, because it is by design, and as such, intentional.
必要な工具と部品
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since we don't know if we're going to remove the PCB, or if it's fixed to the knobs, it's best to remove all plastic caps
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when you flip the device over you can remove the bottom, just gently lift it straight up.
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first remove all screws marked in yellow. put them in a bag or box, so you don't lose them.
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to fix the display issue, you won't need to remove the whole PCB!
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Remove the screws marked in orange and put them in a bag or box
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the issue with the displays is caused by the main PCB lowering slightly when you hit the pads. They display is fixed too tightly to the front panel.
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Lift the pcb straight off the frontpanel.
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I put it in the bottom panel, so I could test if the issue persisted on the PCB. I also inspected the PCB for oxidation to make sure it wasn't water damage, since I got it second hand.
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After plugging in the device, and fiddling with the display connection to the right it turned out to be functioning properly, but looked broken due to a design flaw.
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after fixing the connection I layed out my front panel. Note the USB fixing bracket on the left display, this should be attached to the PCB before putting it back in it's place
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After putting back the PCB, tighten the screws marked in yellow. These should be fixed. Don't overtighten them, but they should keep the pcb in it's place.
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it's VERY IMPORTANT you don't overtighten the screws marked in orange. These fix the displays to the front panel, but also pull up the displays, causing them to disconnect. They do not serve any purpuse for grounding the PCB, so you can leave a bit of clearance.
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you can test it first, which I'd recommend. If it now functions properly put the bottom of the housing back on, tightening the screws from step 3. Again, do not overtighten, as the housing is made of plastic which can crack from excessive stress.
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Nice, it works. No need for expensive servicing!
Nice, it works. No need for expensive servicing!
4 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
13 件のコメント
You are the man! I followed your tutorial and now it works like a charm. I had to take the connectors on the display off/on to make it work.
Thanks a lot!
Do you mean you resoldered the connections? I hadn’t begun to do that, but might need to as it’s definitely not a permanent fix (though it does still work better than before).
Hi there - I’ve attempted this repair twice now and in both cases the screens return to normal for a short while and then revert to flickering after an hour or two of use. I’ve followed these instructions meticulously, keeping the internal screws behind the display fairly loose so as not to put pressure on them - but this does not seem like a permanent fix at all.
If the issue is the pins connecting the display to the mainboard, is there anything that can be done to “lengthen” them or ensure a better, more consistent connection?
Nope, probably not, it’s a design flaw. maybe bend the pins outward ever so slightly, just don’t get mad at me if that breaks the unit completely though. If you still have warranty, NI should be able to replace the unit. If not you could try and harass them until they cave and send you a new unit, but they’re not known for doing that. They’re well aware of the issue, but I don’t know if they fixed it in mk3.
You could also try making the connection into a ribbon cable, but there’s not a lot of room for that.
In my opinion they should’ve used springs instead of the pins, just like newer intel processors do.
Ive had it awhile so def not under warranty. I’ll try the pin bend trick and report back.
First off, thank you for sharing your work. I have a request that you or maybe someone else can help me out with as I cannot locate a pcb layout for the MK2 anywhere. I had a resistor go bad and I can’t identify the markings as the burn marks destroyed it. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I’m looking for R71, which is located on the top side of the board directly above knob #4.
maybe someone on the badcaps dot net forum can help you out!
Just did this procedure on my Mk2. Well, so far, so good.
I bent the pins, well, flexed them out a little bit. I also tightened the three display screws until they stopped, then backed them off 1/2 turn. On my unit, the display pins protrude out the other side of the PCB by about 1/8 inch. that’s quite a bit. So I ran my pick between the two rows of pins that stuck out the back of the PFB to flex them outward for hopefully, a better contact.
Well thank you so much for posting this! This fixed mine, and I have an idea of what to do if it happens again. If if happens again, I’ll maybe loosen the three screws a little more, and flex the pins again.
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!!!!
Thank you very much. It was a long time since my display on MK2 was less brighter than the other and it was so frustrating. Now, thanks to your instructions, I fixed it and now it works well. Thanks a lot
Where i can by the lcd display !!
I dropped mine on accident and it won't turn on do u think u can help me I tried looking around for a repair and no luck can't get ahold of native at all either for the repair
if you dropped it, there's a chance you cracked a PCB or dislodged some connector properly. Since it's already broken and out of warranty, crack it open and see what looks broken
Coming back to this after a few years (however my unit is performing adequately), I realise it might be a smart move to clean the contacts with IPA, Kontakt 60 and Kontakt 61 for future protection.
Just the push through connectors though, in no case should you use kontakt 60 or any of these other chemicals on capacitive or resisitve components like pads and membrane keys. I think IPA is safe to clean those, but I'm not actually sure.
