この修理ガイドは変更されています。最新の未承認バージョンに切り替えます。
はじめに
In this guide we will take a look on how to open the device, where the most common leaking parts are, and how to clean and/or replace them.
Spare parts for this device are getting hard to obtain, since Krups no longer sells them. Erzatsteil Direct has most parts still available for those ordering from Europe.
必要な工具と部品
-
-
Be sure to unplug the device first
-
Remove the water tank, then with the TR10 screwdriver, first remove the two screws behind the tank (red arrows)
-
Now carefully remove the spring from it's holder (orange arrow)
-
-
-
With the back of the device towards you, start on the left panel
-
It is connected with 6 clips at the lower part, and several more for the top part
-
Carefully pry loose the clips from the bottom upwards, starting with the clips on the bottom (red arrows)
-
next open up the clip next to the power cord
-
open up the three clips on the side of the panel (orange arrows). Locktabs grip the holes in the orange clips 1 and 2. They will let go if they are lifted directly outwards from their base. Just next to the locktabs are guide pins. they don't offer resistance during removal.
-
-
-
-
Now continue with the top part. It is connected at two places, with a big mess of clips and placeholders. Some force might be needed to pull them apart.
-
First tackle the bottom row of clips (red arrow)
-
Then pry the top row apart (other red arrow)
-
You can now remove the entire left side and put it aside
-
-
-
Remove the right side following the same procedure as for the left side. Once the right side is fully loosened, disconnect the power button from the panel. It is held in its place by two small clips, which are easily loosened with the flathead screwdriver or spludger.
-
We now have full access to the penguin's innards!
-
-
-
There are three common places for the leak to occur. The flow rate measurement, the connector assembly to the water tank and the pump assembly.
-
To identify which of those is leaking, simply look for water where it's not expected. All couplings should be fully dry.
-
Of the three common places of leaks, most stem from calcification of the connector assembly. Since the standard decalcification methods (with the satches) doesn't touch these parts, it easily gets clogged up and water leaks in between the sealings.
-
When one of the couplings did fail, or the flow measurement or connector assembly is cracked, replace those parts first
-
-
-
Loosen the connector assembly. It is not glued or held back by clips, so a slight wiggle is enough to pull it.
-
Pull out the sealing rubber and filter
-
Carefully but thoroughly clean the housing, the seal and the filter of any calcified remains.
-
Clean the underside of the housing where the assembly is connected to the housing. Remove all calcified remains from here as well
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
49 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
26 件のコメント
Hi Joost
Thanks for the great guide. helped to quickly get into the Coffee Maker yesterday after it stopped working. Result: A Capacitor and a Resistor kicked the bucket. Replacing the ElCO is no problem as it is a fairly standard one and (more important): the values are printed on it :)
But i am not able to decipher the value of the resistor, as most of the color bands have faded away and the parts that are still visible are not clear enough to recognize the value... and since it is broken, i can't measure its value.
so i wonder: maybe you took some close ups of the PCB when doing this guide where the resistor R105 (one onnly two NON-smd resistors on the board near the inductor coil L100 (both located on the lower right side of the PCB). From what i can see form the Picture of Step 5 and 6, both our Coffee Makers use the same revision of the PCB. If so, i would kindly ask you to share them with me... a snapshot of that resistor with all it's bands visible would be enough :-)
Hi Daniel, Glad the guide was able to help you. I did take clear pictures of the pcb luckily, but i suck at decoding resistor values. Luckily the pcb is also available as a spare part, and the supplier has really clear pictures of it, so you should be able to decipher it yourself :)
Since i can't upload images to a comment as far as i can tell, please take look here: https://res.cloudinary.com/dtk4ybaqk/ima...
Hi! Do you know if i could order the needle from somwhere? Main got broken... And also how to Change it? Thank you!
Relika
Hi, it depends on the exact model, but a good place to start would be erzatsteil. A quick search gives you that there are only three models available, so just find the right one for your model number at: (https://ersatzteildirect.de/advanced_sea...). The injector plates are sold seperately, and should cost you less than 12 euros (without shipping).
Luckily, replacing it is very easy. Take a look at this guide, it will tell you how: How to fix water leaking from the side of the capsules
Hi Joost, very clear instructions, thanks. One small problem: the bolts in my machine look like Torx bolts, except that they have a little pin in the centre. That means that you need a Torx screwdriver with a hollowed out centre and I have no idea how I can get hold of those ...
As an afterthought: if scale on the connector assy is the most frequently occurring problem, I think that I'll just soak a handkerchief in a vinegar/water solution, put it on the connector and leave it overnight. See if that works.
