はじめに
この修理ガイドはiFixitのテックライティングスタッフによって執筆されたもので、Googleによって承認されたものではありません。iFixitの修理ガイドのクオリティーについては、 こちらを参照してしてください。
このガイドではGoogle Pixel 3aのフロントカメラを交換する方法です。カメラはマザーボード下側に繋がっているため、カメラを取り外すにはマザーボードを取り出さなければなりません。
Pixel 3aの補強されていないディスプレイパネルは壊れやすいです。 スクリーンを再利用する場合、開口方法に記載された注意書きに特別に注目してください。
この手順の一番難しいパートは近接センサーのコネクタを再装着するところです。作業には忍耐と精密さが必要です。
必要な工具と部品
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デバイス上の2つのシーム(継ぎ目)にご注目ください。
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スクリーン上のシーム:このシームはスクリーンとデバイスの残り部分が繋がっています。ここをこじ開けます。
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フレーム上のシーム:ここはプラスチックフレームが、バックカバーと繋がっている部分です。ネジで固定されています。このシームはこじ開けないでください。
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シームをこじ開ける前に、スクリーン上の次のエリアにご注意ください。
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スクリーンのフレックスケーブル:指示された以上に深くこじ開けないでください。このケーブルのダメージに繋がります。
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接着剤周辺: 開口ピックの角度を調節せずに狭い周囲以上をこじ開けてしまうと、ディスプレイパネルが損傷します。
Da ich keinen iopener ( dachte das wäre alles dabei wie auf der bstellvorschau!!!) habe ich eine Wärmflasche auf das Handy gelegt ..behutsam und nicht zu heiß. Besonders an Kopf und fußende war das Display ziemlich fest...befolgt man die Anweisungen genau ist es eigentlich kein Problem das Display vom Rahmen zu lösen, jedoch bin ich der Meinung, dass hier schon ein gewisses Maß an motorischer Vertrautheit mit der Materie bestehen sollte, da wie gesagt oben und unten doch ein tieferes eingreifen in den Rahmen unter das Display nötig ist...
Ralph S. aus Neumünster
You definitely want to use the iOpener on all sides as you make your way around the screen. The adhesive on my device was quite strong!
My screen was cracked in the corner and it was a real pain in the neck to get the little bits and pieces out of the corner. I don't know if this step is easier with an intact screen, but it was definitely the most difficult step on the repair for me.
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iOpenerを準備して、ディスプレイの右側端に載せて約1分間温めます。
My screen was cracked diagonally. Heating with iOpener helped at the top and bottom edges to weaken the adhesive.
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ピックを右側端に沿ってスライドし、接着剤を切開します。
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接着剤が再装着するのを防ぐため、開口ピックをその場に残します。
Don’t make my mistake and read ahead. 6mm may be too close for comfort! 8mm is definitely too far and caused me to damage. Also be sure to read the right manual! I have an XL and it notes 5mm.
Fortunately my old screen was beyond repair, But be super careful around the bottom I managed to sever the ribbon cable to the digitizer.
I broke my screen here. The adhesive in my case was quite strong on the top and bottom.
This is by far the hardest part of the entire replacement. I ruined my screen doing this, you might as well buy a new screen at the same time as you buy your battery. I just barely rubbed the edges of my screen and it turned the edge of my screen purple. This eventually migrated to the entire screen causing the whole thing to be purple/black.
I've repaired many iPhones, and never had any issues. The screens always remained intact. But with the Pixel, I completely destroyed the screen. The only thing it showed after booting up was a purple line... The adhesive is very strong and it's nearly impossible to separate the screen without damaging it. You should order a new screen before you attempt to change the battery, just in case.
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開口ピックで下側右の角周辺をスライドし、接着剤を切開します。
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続けて、デバイスの下側端と左側角に沿ってスライドします。
My screen was already cracked diagonally, so going around the corners was especially hard. Starting from each side was not so risky as I first thought because side adhesive is really thin. However top and bottom needed some more lifting force from the pick. More heating helped at the top and bottom edges.
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上部端に沿って接着剤を切開します。開口ピックを8mm以上差し込まないでください。
There is a LOT more adhesive at the top than anywhere else on the phone! It’s like there’s 2 lines of adhesive, one along the edge of the case and one along the edge of the screen, and it’s filled in between them wherever the speaker camera aren’t. I needed to heat and pry several times to get the top loose. Fortunately, there’s little risk of hitting a cable near the top (look ahead to the step where you lift the screen off to see where all the cables go!)
I found that applying the iOpener across the top edge of the glass for about 30 seconds at this step helped soften the adhesive significantly. My front camera was replaced only a few months ago by uBreakiFix and the display adhesive subsequently let go on the entire right edge, bottom, and part of the left side shortly after the new front camera failed. Only the top was still securely stuck.
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全ての接着剤が切開できたらスクリーンガラスを裏返しにして、デバイス上部に載せます。スクリーン用フレックスケーブルが大きな円を描いて繋がっています。
Hi, could you help me with one clarification?
What does the small “metal patch” in the middle of the display ribbon do?
Does it prevent the phone from starting while disconnected?
Thank you for your time!
Hi Oliver,
I think the patch you’re referring to helps with either EM shielding or heat dissipation. It should not prevent the phone from starting.
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慎重に、スクリーンコネクタのブラケットを覆っている黒いテープを剥がします。
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スクリーンコネクタのブラケットを固定している4.4 mm T3 長ネジを2本外します。
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スクリーンコネクタブラケットを外します。
This may be a silly question but how are you able to tell whether the tape is in good condition? Is it based off of how sticky it is after you remove it?
That is a fair question! If the tape is in one piece and is relatively sticky, it can probably be used again.
Oops! I forgot to put any tape back. Does this tape have a critical purpose, in other words should I go to the trouble to pry the screen back off and tape it?
The tape does not serve a critical purpose. If you have already re-sealed your phone, I wouldn’t worry about it.
Les vis sont des T4 et non des T3
Bonjour Gaëtan ! Merci pour la remarque. En fait, il y a toujours une certaine tolérance entre le tournevis et la tête de vis. Donc il se peut que la taille supérieure ou inférieure soit plus “confortable” au cas par cas. Bonne réparation !
Bonjour,
Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?
J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .
Do you sell the 2 4.4mm t3 screws and the screen connector bracket. Or know where I can get it thanks
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、スクリーンのフレックスケーブルをこじ開けて接続を外します。
I had accidentally pressed the power button and the phone was on when connecting the new screen and that broke the board! So make sure the phone is off.
hey man think I've just done the same thing :(
how did you fix it? did it need a new motherboard?
is it okay if I forgot to add the black tape on the connector area???
When reassembling, before reattaching the connector for the screen flex cable is the time to align the screen cover adhesive sheet onto the perimeter of the plastic mid-frame. Even if one is using the Tesa tape, I suspect aligning it along the edge of the mid-frame would be simpler without the screen and its flex cable obstructing your efforts.
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There is a blue plastic tape covering the digitizer and when I try to take it off it rips out something more than just the tape I think it’s pulling the magnet too
i had a little plastic piece around the camera (seems to just be a spacer) that i moved to the new screen. had to pry it up with a pick cuz it was stuck down good.
actually to clarify- i didn’t move the little camera spacer to the new screen- i placed it around the camera on the phone, where there was a little indent for it, and stuck it down with a bit of tesa strip, then applied more tesa strips around the edge of the phone before finally reconnecting and replacing the screen. the little plastic bit i encountered needs to be precisely placed around the camera so would not be a good idea to just stick it to the screen when reinstalling!
elyze -
Thanks team! I was able to replace my broken screen with no issues!
Instead of cutout adhesives or tesa tape, I used B-7000. Painless.
Appreciate the screen and instructions!
Bonjour,
Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?
J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .
Hello . Can you advice me a site where i Can buy a quality screen replacement pack for my Google Pixel 3A?
There's a lot of rip off on internet and id like to get a good pack and a quality screen .
Hello! We currently sell a replacement screen. However, I’m not sure if it is available yet internationally.
I have a quick question, so I haven’t done anything yet because I only just ordered my repair kit, but is it possible to replace the battery without having to replace the display ?
Hi Braeden!
Yes, it is definitely possible to replace the battery without replacing the display. With that said, the initial entry steps can be pretty tricky. Before you begin, look very closely over the display to see if you can see any micro-fractures. If you see any, you will most likely crack the screen when you try to remove it. Take your time and apply a heated iOpener often. Good luck!
I forgot to order the tape when getting my replacement USB port, so I ended up putting the screen back on without any tape and using regular clear tape on the outside of the phone to keep the screen from falling off. It’s less waterproof, but it’ll do the job until the right part arrives.
Speaker mesh appeared to already be in place on my replacement screen, so I did not transfer this over from my old screen. That was a huge mistake, sounds were garbled above about 30% volume. Make sure you do this part!
I tried the replacement after watching this and many other videos. I purchased a working Pixel 3a and removed it to put onto my old Pixel 3a. The screen is not turning on on either devices now, old or new. The device is turning on because I can feel vibrations. What do you think the problem is?
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プラスチック製ミッドフレームを固定している次の長さのT3ネジを14本外します。
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4.3 mm シルバーT3ネジー12本
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4.3 mm ブラック T3ネジー2本
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この作業では外したねじを安全に保管してください。そして再組立の際は、正しい位置に装着するしてください。
I found that a T3 bit didn’t get purchase on the screws in my Pixel 3a, but the T4 bit worked great. Not sure what’s up with that.
This is definitely possible, depending on which kit’s T3 bit you use, along with potential screw quality variances.
My Pixel 3a has been apart three times for a non-functioning front camera. The first time, it was by a Google authorized repair shop, and the camera stopped functioning again after a few months. When I took it apart the second time, I noted that many of the screws weren't seated before I removed them. The camera module had become disconnected and simply reseating the connector fixed it. I was careful to fully drive all screws and apply an appropriate amount of torque to them, thinking the repair shop failed to do so. After 9 or 10 months, my front camera stopped working again. Again, I'm noticing a lot of the screws have worked themselves loose. I'm going to try to find an appropriate thread compound that I can precisely apply to these tiny screws.
Hey Reid,
I would suggest blue Loctite or threadlocker. Dab a small drop on each screw before you install them.
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開口ピックをデバイス下側のフレームの継ぎ目に差し込みます。この継ぎ目は、プラスチックのミッドフレームとバックカバーの間です。
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プラスチック製ミッドフレームを固定しているクリップを外すには、継ぎ目に沿ってピックをスライドします。
To remove the midframe, I was having a lot of trouble until removing the sim card tray. I think this might have to be removed before the midframe
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、近接センサーのコネクタをマザーボードからこじ開けて、接続を外します。
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プラスチックのミッドフレームを取り出します。
This connector is f*ckn impossible to reconnect 😭
Arnau Mora - 返信
This is the hardest part of the job. I gave up on connecting the proximity sensor while in the midframe, and found it much easier to remove the proximity sensor from the midframe, attach the connector, then thread the sensor into its home in the midframe.
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プラスチックのミッドフレーム上部端とデバイス本体の位置を揃えます。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、近接センサーのコネクタをマザーボードのソケット上に、慎重に揃えて押さえます。
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この作業には忍耐と正確さが必要です。コネクタの位置が確認できたら、指で慎重にコネクタをソケット上で押さえて装着します。
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スパッジャーの先端を使用して、近接センサーをミッドフレームの凹部から慎重にこじ開けます。 センサーはミッドフレームに軽く接着されています。
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ミッドフレームからセンサーを取り外します。 センサーのコネクタをマザーボードソケット上に装着します。
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センサーケーブルをミッドフレームに通し、センサーを凹部に合わせて再装着します。 指で押し下げて、ミッドフレーム上にセンサーを装着し直します。
I tried to do this for about 15 minutes before I went to the alternative. There is a tiny post to hold the sensor in position on the midframe. I pried the sensor from the midframe from the corner opposite that post and then finished this step in 2 minutes.
Plan B ok for me as well. There is a hole below the sensor in order to push it with a sim card opener.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、バッテリーコネクタをマザーボードのソケットから持ち上げて、接続を外します。
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バッテリーフレックスケーブルを若干折り曲げます。アクシデントでソケットと接触してしまわないよう、予防目的です。
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプには、Google Pixel 3aのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？トラブルシュートのヘルプには、Google Pixel 3aのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
2 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
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コメント 1 件
This was super helpful! My phone was in for repair last year at a Google ASP for a front camera failure, but then it happened again a few months later, along with intermittent “phone is getting warm” warnings, and the display adhesive letting go. Upon removal of the midframe screws, I discovered that only two or three of them were fully driven, with the rest being significantly loose. I don’t believe the midframe was making good contact with the thermal blocks on the logic board. Further, when I removed the logic board, I discovered that the front camera flex was completely unplugged from the logic board. Perhaps the loose midframe allowed the camera to move around and work its connector loose. I seated the connector and confirmed it was solid, the front camera is now working, and I’ve fully reassembled the device. It seems less laggy as well! I guess I have a spare front camera now.
