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Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換

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  1. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーの接着剤を緩めます: 手順 1、 1の画像 1

    Older devices may require 2 or more minutes with a very hot iOpener. Also note, the photo shows the opener on the FRONT of the phone. The heat needs to be applied to the back of the device!

    Rick Johnson - 返信

    I just realized that I was trying to pry apart the front of my Pixel 3… and have separated the class from the display. ??‍♂️ Even though the rest of the directions show the back, it would be nice for the first picture to also show the back, just to be safe.

    JR Raith -

    Agreed, I’ve done exactly the same and completely broken my display. I probably should’ve paid more attention to the initial steps before diving in but the step could do with a new picture for sure.

    Daniel Fryer -

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll add a note in the step warning people to make sure to pry the back cover, not the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    I prefer my favorite opening method with something like this. Dental floss. So thin it can slide in the gap. A little sawing to get it far enough past the edge to lift and get the first pick in.

    John Hoffstetter - 返信

    I found another wonderful tool. I used something like medicine packaging which is aluminum foil with plastic. It’s thin and strong enough!

    Christie Lin - 返信

    I also went for the hairdryer, dental floss, and then the provided picks and this worked. Not easy to get that initial seal broken but once that's done the rest is pretty easy.

    James - 返信

    I needed 20 nerve wracking minutes with a hairdryer

    Amy schneider - 返信

    My battery had bulged and opened the case for me!

    Warmed it up a bit with hairdryer

    Floss helped also.

    David Lincer - 返信

    I found I wasn't able to get the edges hot enough. I ended up using my heat gun (for shrink tubing) instead.

    Kurt Nowak - 返信

  2. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 継ぎ目部分に隙間を作ります: 手順 2、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 継ぎ目部分に隙間を作ります: 手順 2、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 継ぎ目部分に隙間を作ります: 手順 2、 3の画像 3
    • バックカバーの温めた下端に吸盤カップを装着します。

    • バックカバーのひび割れ程度が大きい場合は、吸盤カップが装着しやすくなるように、透明な補強テープでカバーを覆います。

    • 吸盤カップを強く一定の力で、隙間が生じるまで持ち上げます。

    • あなたのデバイスの使用年月にもよりますが、この作業にはかなりの力が必要です。作業が困難な場合は、より熱を当てて温めて、再度チャレンジしてください。

    • 開口ピックを隙間に差し込みます。

    • メタル製ツールでこじ開けると、ガラス製のバックカバーに傷がついたり、割れたりすることがありますので、ご注意ください。パネルが動かない場合は、ドライヤーやヒートガンでさらに熱を加えてください。

    The initial opening/insert is the hardest part of this repair, and if you end up having to use a flat-head screwdriver (etc) to get the first gap opened, you’ll scratch the phone. But it works.

    William Kew - 返信

    I don’t recommend using a screwdriver. I tried this and it shattered the glass in that area. I replaced the battery on my Pixel 1 recently and noted that heating the FRONT glass on that phone enough to get a gap for one of the pics takes a considerable amount of time AND patience. I was one of the few who didn’t break or otherwise damage the glass in that process. I would say the same rule applies here. Allow for significant time and patiences to heat the old adhesive enough to get a pick inside the cover.

    kevlion88 - 返信

    Definitely, this opening/insert is the hardest part of the procedure. I was unable to open even a slight separation with a suction cup and even with tons of heat from a hair dryer. What worked really well, and what I would highly recommend to others who experience really strong adhesive, is to use a small X-acto knife with a #16 blade. Make sure it’s a #16 (find on Amazon) because it differs greatly in angle and rigidity from the usual #11 blade. The sharpness of the blade makes it really easy to find the crack and open a gap, where you can then insert a pick with no problem.

    Andris Vizulis - 返信

    I used a typical razor blade (like Matt and Rick and Greg) pressing the whole of the blade against the edge (blade parallel and flush against the back cover). The razor slipped under enough that I could get a pick in. (No damage, but when I first tried the corner of the razor, a small cut was immediately evident. Only use the whole blade.) Then, I used blue picks exclusively.

    I'm very curious about the dental floss method. I'll try that if I need to get back inside.

    pandam3ch4 -

    I gave up with the iOpener and pick, I tried >5 times for over an hour… After heating with theiOpener, I used and X-acto knife instead and that worked like a charm, except it did leave a few scuff marks unfortunatly. I used a size 22 blade.

    Manny - 返信

    I really wanted to level off the back of the phone when pulling on the suction cup in this step, but found it was actually pretty easy once I used the opening tool to push down on the edge of the bezel, at the crack, barely putting any force on the back of the phone at all (just to keep it steady).

    Eugene Creswick - 返信

    I have about a 2 year old Pixel 3. iOpener didn’t work at all on this step, but once I broke out the hair dryer, I was able to get the phone hot enough to insert the pick (no screwdriver or xacto knife needed)

    sliverdragon37 - 返信

    I’m having trouble with the iOpener too. It is frustrating because I practiced on a bricked iPhone earlier this week and it was effortless. My Pixel 3 is also about 2 years old. Out of curiosity, were you replacing the charging assembly because of the charging cables fitting too loosely on the phone or for some other reason?

    Edwin -

    I used a stanley knive to get started and then a combo of opener and plektrums.

    All went well till I used to much force on the camera corner and broke the back into lots of small pieces. Be careful on that corner, people.

    But the new camera does focus, so for a first attempt at fixing a phone I am happy.

    clas ebeling - 返信

    I heated the bottom up with the Iopener and then used a rectangular razor blade and the suction cup to lift the bottom. Place the entire blade edge into the crack and push/pry while lifting with the suction cup. As soon as you have a gap start to open, have a second person insert a pick into the corner. It was actually really easy. I had given up after a couple of tries without a blade. My Pixel 3 is 2 years old.

    Jeremy Stewart - 返信

    Agreed with many other comments here. My Pixel 3 is two years old and neither the iopener nor a blow dryer were capable of loosening it enough. I ended up using a VERY hot iopener for a couple of minutes, the suction cup, and then a wide-bladed razer blade (about 80% width of bottom edge to spread out the stress and prevent risk of fracturing the rear glass panel). Once adding the razer blade I was able to get the pick in and follow the rest of the instructions as written.

    Matt Johnson - 返信

    I also had to follow this process but resorted to a heat gun on its lowest setting as I couldn’t get the iOpener hot enough (I was afraid of overheating and bursting it). Other how-to videos also show using a thin piece of plastic or metal to slide into the corner, saving substantial time.

    Rick Johnson -

    So I didn’t use a blade, but I did get my fingernail in before the plectrum haha. Happened by accident as I was trying to push down on the bezel to counter the suction cup force.

    I also heated the sides and corners as well as the bottom, which may have helped it budge.

    Dmitriy - 返信

    Helped me to notice that the focus here is to lift in the center (like right over the USB C connector). Was able to get it with just the iOpener and pushing down on the rest of the phone with the pry tool. My phone is over 2 years old though and it took about 50 minutes of working / reheating / repeating

    Tim Noack - 返信

    Destroyed the glass back trying to take it off. This is not an easy phone to take apart.

    Andrew Richie - 返信

    It would be nice if there was a heads up that the rear of the phone is glass….. Phone piping hot glass shattered and splintered

    John Gates - 返信

    Hi John!

    Good suggestion! I'll add that into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    The Jimmy tool from the iFixit toolkit worked like a freakin’ charm. Took me 10 mins to open the phone and it came out unscathed.

    adrianpauly - 返信

    I used dental floss to cut the adhesive and slide it open. Just wiggle it back and forth from the corners until you cut enough that you can switch to a pick. Helps to have a extra hand to hold the phone.

    Javier Sullivan - 返信

    Brother, dental floss was an absolute godsend!!! After 4 hours with the IOpener and attempting to use a heat gun which I balked from out of fear I came across this comment. Teased it around a corner and was then able to saw away at the adhesive. A lot of patience but no heat or potentially damaging tools needed. Thanks!

    Elijah Wilcox -

    With the floss, I wasn't getting enough "sawing" motion as it just slipped through my fingers too easily (my phone is about 4-5 years old I think, I bought it used). So I tied a few knots around a pen (the kind with a gripper, so the floss won't slide off) and it was a lifesaver. After about 3 hours trying other ways, the floss/pen saw got it open enough to stick the picks in and eventually open it up!! Thank you to everyone who commented these tips!!

    Rachel DeGouff -

    I have a 2-3 year old phone. The “heating pad” and blue picks did not work. I tried for two hours. Two weeks later I tried again using a hair dryer on high heat and low fan, and a rectangular utility razor blade. Start at the bottom of the phone, heat, and insert the razor blade into the gap and use it to cut the adhesive back a little at a time. Do not insert it more than about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Once you start getting a separation, use the blue picks to hold it open. Go up both sides an inch or two on both sides at a time. Do not pry the back open more than an 1/8 of an inch or so until you get it separated all the way around. Be patient. Work slowly. This took about 30 minutes once I got the hang of it. Do NOT pull the cover away from the phone after you separate it all the way around!! Read the instructions several times. There is a cable to the finger print sensor attached to the cover!

    Re-read these entire set of instructions and ALL of the comments TWICE before you start.

    Greg B - 返信

    I used and iOpener and the iFixit tool (the one with the metal spatula). Ended up inserting about 10 picks, but it worked.

    Kevin Dick - 返信

    I couldn’t get the pick in so I tried the sharper pry tool. Got it in and slid it sideways towards the corner —- BLAM, the back shattered. Not a good home repair experience.

    Roy Feague - 返信

    Similar experience with others, iOpener would not heat up the phone enough to separate the adhesive. Had to use a hair dryer to finally insert the blue pick. After sliding the pick past the corner, the back glass scattered… Time to get a new phone and give up on this battery replacement i guess.

    John Wu - 返信

    On a 3 years old Pixel 3 phone, after unsuccessfully trying iOpener and the suction cup, I used a piece of dental floss, and it worked perfectly.

    To make the process easier - tie little loops on both ends of the floss, put a finger or a screwdriver through the loop to help pulling the floss. Pull it through to one side and then to another, continue until you’re 1/2 inch in. At this point it should be possible to insert a pick

    Sergey Kiselev - 返信

    This was the hardest step. I could not get the pick in at all. I tried dental floss and it slid in no problem. I eventually stuck the very tip of a razor blade in which allowed me to slide in a pick. Also be very careful when sliding the picks around as my wife broke the back glass of her phone, try to keep pressure as even as possible without bending the glass much.

    Adam Simmons - 返信

    I like the dental floss idea. I set edges of the phone-back and also the blunt metal tool on an electric cooktop on low heat, and the adhesive softened enough to be workable. SAFETY TIP: the tool and phone were hot to touch, I wore cotton gloves throughout this task.

    Student4Life - 返信

    Can confirm, with a 4-year-old Pixel 3, it was not possible to get the back cover off with any amount of force, heat, and the blue picks. I managed to get started by using single-edge box cutter razor blades and a hair dryer on high--got in just a bit under the left corner, then added a second blade along the bottom edge, and a third near the right corner, and that gave me enough space to get a blue pick in and start replacing the razors with blue picks one by one, and then proceeded as per the instructions. Dental floss is a neat idea; I wish I'd tried that--the razors didn't do any damage, but I was worried about the possibility.

    Adiv Paradise - 返信

    Agreed; a 4cm section of utility knife was required along with heat/alcohol/patience to break the initial seal.

    Managed to do it without cracking anything, but sweated through this step quite prolifically.

    Mike -

    3.5 year old phone. Just wanted to confirm that dental floss, combined with the iOpener, does the trick to get the first pick in.

    I was able to slide the floss under the bottom right corner if you are looking at the phone. I alternated between sawing with the floss and applying heat with the iOpener. Eventually I was able to get a pick in that corner and was able to remove the rest of the adhesive by applying heat with the iOpener and sawing with additional picks around the perimeter of the phone.

    Matt Dubois - 返信

    My Pixel 3 is 4 years old. I tried using the iOpener heat pad for 2 minutes. Didn't work. Then I tried using a heat gun on low for about 30 seconds. Didn't work. Then I used the heat gun on high for about a minute, then the suction pulled it off. I used the picks to peel the rest off. I thought about using the floss which would have work well. I also though about letting the phone sit in the car when it's hot outside. The key is to be patient and try not to use something besides the plastic tools. If I can do it then anyone can. Heat guns are very cheap and a good tool to have.

    Alex Schultz - 返信

    After unsuccessfully trying all prying tools including metal ones - I finally hit the motherlode with the most inane thing possible-a stiff plastic collarbone-it has a slight angle at one end that gives it the required amount of rigidity and prying power.

    Yes, a heat gun is an absolute must!

    Jatinder Singh - 返信

    I've ordered the battery replacement kit, it will arrive next week. I keep my house cool in fall/winter, so I'm a bit concerned about how well I'll be able to heat the adhesive. I'm considering heating the whole phone in my convection oven's "warm" function. Its thermostat compares well with a meat thermometer, I might try my lab grade thermometer too.

    I see "The phone is designed to work best in ambient temperatures between 32° and 95° F (0° and 35° C), and should be stored between ambient temperatures of -4° and 113° F (-20° and 45° C)." 113° F seems pretty low, perhaps that's when the adhesive begins to soften appreciably. I was considering starting at 120F. (And trying "toast" if it defeats me.)

    Experience, suggestions, good luck wishes welcome.

    reg - 返信

    Hi reg!

    The temperatures you listed are operating temperatures—once the Pixel exceeds those temperatures, it will shut down and show a heat warning symbol. Ideally, you want to heat just the adhesive perimeter. The back cover should be slightly too hot to the touch—aim for about 80°C.

    Arthur Shi -

    3.5 year old phone. Thank the gods you guys recommended floss. I broke 2 nails trying the picks. Unfortunately I used extra slippy floss so I couldn't even tie it into loops to help. Even with the floss I couldn't saw my way through or get a pick in so I ended up just adding more and more floss (and more and more hairdryer) until I could get the pick in. After that it was just careful muscle.

    Amy schneider - 返信

    Despite several frustrating tries across several days, I had zero success creating a molecule of seam gap to begin to remove back cover without breaking it! Suction cup ineffective (needs 3rd? hand to pull-and-insert pick); heated iOpener doesn't U-fold to cover perimeter (soon cools off in 63F room); hair dryer likewise too-brief heat; Exacto or utility knife blades useless. Dental floss no luck. But only! once I tried keeping the Px3 on my electric 1980s food warming tray (Lo heat ..hands resting on insulating hot pads ..it also! keeps iOpener hot) ..would dental floss fit into corners (No chance midpoint at charge port per foto); then blue pick. But! floss was too slippery to pull/grip strongly ..one must tie loops at each end, then use old-style 'peg' clothespins (or pen with clip) to roll-up floss length to enable pulling right at insertion point. With fingers/hands preoccupied manipulating floss, it was awkward to simultaneously tug suction cup upward effectively at all. Didn't break rear cover ;-)

    AdahS - 返信

    I had no luck with just a suction cup and heat. Heat and a razor blade as others commented worked well; HOWEVER, while working the blue opening picks around the bottom I cracked the glass. The back glass is more delicate than I anticipated. :-( Be very careful/gentle with the back glass! If I attempt this with another glass-backed phone I will plan to work on an actively heated pad for this step.

    Jeff Selfa - 返信

    The plastic opening pick was to thick to get into the (almost nonexisting) crack. I had to use a thin sharp metal knife, which scratched the paint a little bit but finally made the crack wide enough for the plastic pic to fit in and finish the job. Perhaps one thin metal pick would be helpfull in the kit for this first step.

    L. Hopmeier - 返信

    As others have said, this step was by far the most difficult and time consuming. DO NOT RUSH THIS STEP THOUGH. Take it slow and do NOT bend the back glass to try and speed things up. Keep slicing your way though, patiently being aware of the fingerprint sensor cable. On my phone it required a lot of force and im not even sure the puller was able to make a gap.. I found that the plastic picks were too thick to get a crack started. I ended up using a piece of plastic from a clamshell plastic container to finally make it through the crack and through the adhesive. I tried the plastic backing of one of the adhesives but that wasn't rigid enough. Once though I made my way about half way through; and in haste I made the fatal mistake of bending the back glass to much and shattered it. Yes it is in fact made of glass! It will NOT BEND. I ended up getting a replacement back glass kit on Amazon for $16 which had a new sensor and the adhesive pre-installed which was very nice.

    Kurt Nowak - 返信

  3. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋認証ケーブル情報: 手順 3、 1の画像 1
    • 電源ボタン上からこじ開ける際は、開口ピックを深くまで差し込まないようにご注意ください。指紋センサケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    While the text is accurate, I found this image to be misleading - it appears as if the finger print cable is attached to the right side (from a back-of-phone reference). Only upon close image inspection is it clear that the cable has already been disconnected from the connector that is positioned just inside and above the power button.

    Jeff Selfa - 返信

  4. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 接着剤を切開します: 手順 4、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 接着剤を切開します: 手順 4、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 接着剤を切開します: 手順 4、 3の画像 3
    • デバイスの下側端と右側コーナー周辺に沿って、接着剤をスライスして切開します。

    • 接着剤が再装着しないように、下側端にピックを残します。

    The back cover is glass! I was sure it was some kind of nice plastic. It's probably obvious to a lot of people, and it's very obvious in hindsight, after shattering it. But I'm writing this in case anyone else is oblivious to the last decade of smartphone design. I got impatient and flexed it out as I cut the glue. Don't do that. Carefully work your way around and avoid applying any significany bending forces to the cover.

    Dharman Gersch - 返信

    Yup, shattered the back of my phone while trying to follow these instructions. You can’t flex the back cover much at all or it is toast.

    Roy Feague - 返信

    Someone else had said to use floss to start the cutting I found this to be the most useful. After I heated the phone with a hairdryer I would cut some of the adhesive at the bottom corner after sawing away for a bit I was able to move it enough to fit one of these picks in then I slowly reheated around the edge as I slowly moved more picks and slowly cut away at the adhesive .

    Braden D - 返信

    Didn't have guitar picks. I grabbed some plastic packaging from my recycle bin and cut it into a bunch of triangles to hold the gap open as I worked my way around.

    Student4Life - 返信

    Leaving the pick in the bottom as described while using another to slide up for the next steps shattered the back cover - these instructions should be clear to only leave the pick in the bottom with as little inserted into the phone as possible as it does not take much flex at all to shatter. Also beware that there are no replacement back covers available from iFixit either :(

    Pixel3 Owner - 返信

  5. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 5、 3の画像 3
    • iOpenerで右側端を温めて、開口ピックで接着剤をスライスして切開します。

    • 接着剤は粘着性が強い場合があります。ピックを、裁縫のような動きで内側と外側に交互に差し込んで抜き出しながら、スライスしてください。

    What is the required temperature to soften the glue? Can I just use a small bag filled with boiling water or a heat gun.

    Wiley Sanders - 返信

    The iOpener is a plastic bag filled with what appears to be water so probably, yes.

    Christopher St. John - 返信

  6. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 6、 3の画像 3
    • 続けてデバイス周辺の残りの部分も温めてスライスします。接着剤の再装着を防ぐため、開口ピックを各辺に残してください。

    • 電源ボタンの上をスライスする際は、指紋センサケーブルにダメージを与えないよう、ピックを深くまで差し込まないでください。

  7. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーの左端を持ち上げます: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーの左端を持ち上げます: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーの左端を持ち上げます: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • デバイス周辺のスライスができたら、バックカバーの左側端を慎重に持ち上げます。

    • バックカバーを完全に外さないでください。指紋センサーケーブルでデバイス本体と繋がったままです。

    • リアカバーを長辺側に沿って裏返し、指紋センサーケーブルに圧力がかからないように置きます。

    Yes, per Step 7 foto, lift rear cover to vertical only! along the left edge (camera, power/volume) ..while also keeping the opposite long edge down (almost touching wireless coil) ..as left/camera edge rises (and right/lower edge slides leftward), take care to keep lower/right edge no further rightward than midway across coil (foto) ..then gently rotate now-lower right edge leftward 'clockwise', lay it flat without straining cable. [When my rear cover eventually suddenly released from the perimeter adhesive while still pulling on it, the upward force almost yanked the cover off cable; got lucky]

    [this updates my minutes-ago post ..apparently one can't edit after 5min? ..or delete/replace with this?]

    AdahS - 返信

    Where is the guide on re-attaching the back cover with new adhesive?

    iuooip - 返信

  8. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 8、 1の画像 1
    この手順で使用する道具:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    購入する
    • 指紋センサーのコネクターブラケットを固定している、4.1 mm長プラスネジを2本外します。

    • この修理の間、 各ネジの位置情報を記録し 、元の場所に正確に戻しているか確認してください。

    • 再組み立ての際は、ネジを締めすぎないようにご注意ください。ディスプレイにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    A magnetic screwdriver tip helped here.

    Ciprian Chelba - 返信

    If you purchase iFixit’s kit for this replacement, their included driver is magnetic. Helped immensely!

    Rick Johnson -

    after replacing my camera, my screen had a big green/white vertical stripe. I didn’t see the disclaimer about overtightening these screws. I think it may be related.

    Ethan Berry - 返信

    KEEP TRACK OF THE SCREWS - sketch a scale diagram of the open, inside of the phone on a piece of paper and mark the position of each screw as you remove it - lay the screws on your diagram to keep track of which screw goes where - they are NOT the same size.

    Greg B - 返信

  9. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋センサーコネクタのブラケットを外します: 手順 9、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋センサーコネクタのブラケットを外します: 手順 9、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋センサーコネクタのブラケットを外します: 手順 9、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、NFCコイル底側から指紋センサーのコネクタブラケットをスライドして外します。

    • 指紋センサーのコネクタブラケットを取り出します。

    Re-inserting this is tricky and requires pretty good dexterity. The shiny metal frame of the wireless charger is also not held down, so you may wish to gently apply pressure to it as you try to re-position the connector bracket.

    William Kew - 返信

    I could use a whole tutorial on how to reinstall this

    Amy schneider - 返信

  10. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋センサーコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 指紋センサーコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ソケットから指紋センサのコネクタの接続を外します。

    • このようにコネクタを外す際は、ソケット周辺に付けられ、表面に実装された小さなコンポーネントを外さないように注意してください。

    • このようなプレスコネクタを再装着する際は、カチッと所定の位置に収まるまで慎重に位置を合わせて押し下げ、反対側も同じ作業を繰り返します。 中央部分を押さないでください。 コネクタの位置がずれていると、ピンが曲がって永久的な損傷を引き起こす可能性があります。

  11. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーを外します: 手順 11、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーを外します: 手順 11、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バックカバーを外します: 手順 11、 3の画像 3
    • バックカバーを取り出します。

    • 交換用のバックカバーを取り付ける前に、デバイスのフレームから接着剤の残りを綺麗に取り除いているか確認してください。開口ツールを使って、高濃度イソプロピルアルコールで表面を綺麗に剥がします。

    • バックカバーを再利用する場合は、接着剤を綺麗に取り除き、バックカバー用の接着剤を塗布してください。

    • 交換用バックカバーをインストールする場合、オリジナルのパーツとよく見比べてください。フラッシュディフューザーなどの残りのパーツを交換用パーツに移植してください。

    • このガイドを参照して、新しいバックカバーの接着剤を正しく装着してください。

    When reassembling is it better to first attach the new adhesive back gasket to the phone back or the phone chassis frame?

    Tom Burke - 返信

    Hi Tom!

    It depends on the adhesive. Carefully align the adhesive to the phone by matching the contours. Note which adhesive side is backed by a clear liner, and which side is backed by a colored liner. The clear liner should be removed first. Whichever component the exposed adhesive faces should be the first surface to apply to.

    Hope that helps!

    Arthur Shi -

    Two things:

    1) I recommend attaching the adhesive to the Phone frame and not the back panel. As you attach, you can more easily see the gaps and guide the adhesive along the groove, leaving equal space all around.

    2) To transfer the fingerprint sensor, you will need double-sticky tape to make a new gasket. Put the tape on the back from the inside, and trim with a blade to make the sensor hole. To attach the sensor, place it on something small to raise it off your working surface, then lower the back over it. You’ll be able to see the sensor alignment as you lower the back, which helps get a good position.

    Gary Beardsley - 返信

    Oh, and be prepared: Removing the old adhesive is teeeeedious!! It will take you some time. :-b Alcohol is not a strong solvent, so don’t expect it to remove much; it is mostly for cleaning afterward. In the end, I used one of iFixit’s flat metal tools from the big toolkit to remove the final remains. Its was blunt enough to not cut metal shavings as I cleaned.

    Gary Beardsley - 返信

    I used “medicinal” 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and about 30 Qtips to do the final cleaning of the adhesive, that is, after using a razor blade and the supplied tweezers to remove most of the tape. Patience and many Qtips soaked in IPA removed most of the remaining glue and film.

    Greg B -

    I ended up reusing the original adhesive as it was in pretty good shape. So far, no problems.

    Dan Comiskey - 返信

    Does your IF356-119-1, Google Pixel 3 Rear Cover Adhesive, template use 2 sided pressure sensitive tape? Do I simply align it on the back cover and then press it to the device to reassemble the unit? If so, how long til the back cover is “glued” to the unit?

    Martin Seffens - 返信

    Hi Martin,

    The rear cover adhesive is indeed two-sided PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive). Apply firm even pressure for a minute to bond the adhesive to the unit.

    Arthur Shi -

    When scraping the adhesive off the back cover be careful and don’t apply too much pressure (and/or position the cover against the surface so that it’s supported against the tool used), especially in the corners, or the glass cover rounded edges could break.

    Bart Oleksiak - 返信

    Agree. BEWARE of SCRATCHING off the PAINT from the BACK COVER when cleaning !

    The back cover is painted glass it seems - using a razor blade to scrape off adhesive also scratches off the paint on the inside of the back cover, under the adhesive, and the clear lines it creates are visible from the outside of the back case. If you are using a phone case, this won’t matter.

    Greg B -

    My battery swelled and did all the hard work getting started popping the back open so I didn’t need the iOpener to get the back off, but now the iOpener is handy to heat up the sticky foamy factory original adhesive.

    I found isopropanol ineffective. I found heat softens it considerably. Just very warm, like hot water warm, is effective. Use tweezers or a plastic blade to help pull it off. Metal blades will either gouge the plastic or, worse, create metal shavings that will wreak havoc.

    Are there any solvents other than isopropanol that work and won’t harm the plastic? How do pros speed up this step?

    wsanders - 返信

    I think pros often use heating pads or special jigs. They’d set the temperature, set the phone on the pad, and let the phone heat up for a few minutes. Heat guns are also a popular choice.

    Arthur Shi -

    I found that an opening pick worked well to scrape the glue off the inside of the curved edges of the back cover

    Richard Elder - 返信

    The adhesive on mine took some effort to clean off all the way. During reassembly I did notice that my replacement back panel adhesive was larger than I expected and based off of product photos it looks like I received the 3 XL adhesive instead of the 3. That ended up having me fiddle with the adhesive to try and get it to fit right and unfortunately the camera side now has a bit of a gap that I can still press down on without having it stick. I’ll see how it stays but I fear I might have to get another adhesive. The guide was very helpful though!

    Craig Mileham - 返信

    Does the replacement back come with all the sticky bits I need to replace it, including the fingerprint sensor, led and camers cover?

    wsanders - 返信

    I decided not to bother with new adhesive. The seal doesn't seem great but I tend not to drop my phone in toilets as often as other people.

    James - 返信

    The actual back glass cover part is missing from the parts list and it appears iFixit doesn't sell it anymore.

    It used to be there, and I ordered one months ago and used this guide successfully then. I broke it again and the part is no more.

    Elijah Lynn - 返信

  12. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 12、 1の画像 1
    • ワイヤレス充電コイルを固定している5本のプラスネジを外します。

    • 1.9 mmネジー2本

    • 4.2 mmネジー2本

    • 4.3 mmネジー1本

    The top 1.9 mm screw can’t be totally removed — it comes out with the coil once loosened

    Dmitriy - 返信

    This was not true for me.

    Will Herrick -

    Can I leave the wireless charging coil out?

    This may also allow a bigger battery!

    Jex Webster - 返信

    You may be able to! Note that this is not only the wireless charging coil, but also the NFC antenna (the upper loop).

    Arthur Shi -

    The 1.9 mm screws are actually screwed into the head of another screw beneath them. Sometimes the lower screw unscrews instead of the upper. That leaves both screws attached to the coil. If possible you should separate the two screws and screw the lower one back in first using a small flat blade screwdriver.

    Richard Elder - 返信

    If you decide to clean the wireless coil assembly, be aware that IPA will completely remove the printed 2-D barcode on the lower right. (Hopefully that's not important.)

    Bitt Faulk - 返信

    There were 7 screws!!! The last two were both near the power button.

    Emily Viehland - 返信

    Yes, I have that to, and a little black plastic part covering I port.

    ekan97Kingen (ekan) -

    l won’t mother board google pixel3 contact on WhatsApp +250783996430

    Nhimimana Glibert - 返信

  13. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 充電コイルを外します: 手順 13、 1の画像 1
    • ワイヤレス充電コイルを持ち上げて外します。

    There seems to be a small amount of adhesive holding down the camera-side edge of the coil. Used a spudger to peel it off...and some of the black film on the back side of the coil was torn away.

    Jacob Dziubek - 返信

    Had some adhesive tape holding down the camera side of the coil. Used the tweezers and the spudger to carefully peel it off.
    Also has some adhesive from the back cover edge that caught on the black film at the top of the phone (above NFC coil) - VERY carefully scraped it off with the point of the spudger while gently pulling the coil assembly away.

    Stuart Clark - 返信

  14. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バッテリーケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 14、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, バッテリーケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 14、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、デバイスの右端付近のソケットからバッテリーのプレスコネクタを持ち上げて、接続を外します。

    The connecton board is quete flexible … be careful otherwise other connectors may get looze.

    This is also valid when re-assemble … pusing battery conector may cause other conectors to “pop“.

    Tsanko Tsolov - 返信

    The square connector directly below the battery connector came undone and will not pop back into place.

    Curtis Redfield - 返信

  15. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 15、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 15、 2の画像 2
    この手順で使用する道具:
    iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
    $2.99
    購入する
    • カメラブラケットを固定している2本のネジを外します。

    • 4.1 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 4 mmスタンドオフネジー1本

    • スタンドオフネジは、スタンドオフ専用ビットを使って取り外すのが一番ですが、急な時は、小サイズのマイナスドライバーでも対応できます。しかし滑って周辺のコンポーネントにダメージを与えてしまわないよう、特にご注意ください。

    • カメラブラケットを取り出します。

  16. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラの位置を確認します: 手順 16、 1の画像 1
    • フロントカメラを交換する場合、交換が必要なカメラを確認してください。

    • 標準視野カメラ

    • 広角カメラ

    • マザーボードの取り外し作業中の方は、両方のカメラを取り出さなければなりません。

    I actually didn't have to remove the cameras to get my motherboard out and back in, just pushed the connectors out of the way. It's probably less hassle prying them up as directed than wiggling the board back under two extra connectors when re-assembling as I did :)

    elyze - 返信

    Make sure that the cameras each go in exactly the same spots or not the phone will boot loop forever. The connectors on both of these cameras are the same, so they will easily connect on both sides. So be careful.

    Let's Talk Tech - 返信

  17. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラの接続を外します: 手順 17、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラの接続を外します: 手順 17、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラの接続を外します: 手順 17、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、交換するカメラ用のコネクタの接続を外します。

  18. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラを緩めます: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラを緩めます: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • カメラは接着剤で固定されています。

    • スパッジャーの先端をカメラモジュールの端に差し込んで、フレームから接着剤を緩めながらこじ開けます。

  19. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, カメラを外します: 手順 19、 1の画像 1
    この手順で使用する道具:
    Tesa 61395 Tape
    $5.99
    購入する
    • 先端が鋭利でないピンセットを使って、カメラを取り出します。

    • カメラモジュールを固定している接着剤の状態が良い場合、接着剤を再利用することができます。そうでない場合は、両面タイプのTesaテープを使って接着してください。

    • 交換用カメラモジュールを装着する際は、カメラフレームのレンズに接着剤の残留が付いたままになっていないか確認してください。

  20. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーの接続を外します: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーの接続を外します: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、デバイス右側端付近のマザーボードのソケットから、ラウドスピーカー用コネクタの接続を外します。

    • スパッジャーでバッテリーに穴を開けないようご注意ください。

  21. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 21、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 21、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 21、 3の画像 3
    • 次の4本のプラスネジを外します。

    • 1.9 mmネジー1本

    • 4.3 mmネジー1本

    • 薄型シャンク付き4.3mmネジー2本

    • 左側のネジ穴から小さな接地クリップを外します。紛失しないようにご注意ください。

    • 接地クリップの湾曲した端が、デバイス左側に向くように取り付けます。

    • USB-Cポートの右側から小さなプラスチックのインサートを取り出します。

    • ネジをドーターボードに取り付ける前に、このインサートを再挿入するのを忘れないでください。

    The three 4.3 mm screws highlighted in Orange are not all the same. The one closest to the battery is slightly different, a larger diameter. It would be good to note this for reassembly.

    genec123 - 返信

    Thank you! I will adjust the guide to reflect this!

    Arthur Shi -

    Ah, all great and everything but this should be in big bold red letters: “Be sure to reinstall this insert before you screw down the daughterboard.“

    Screwed 4.3 thin screw without that small insert and penetrated new screen module behind…

    Maks - 返信

    Noted and changed!

    Arthur Shi -

  22. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーを緩めます: 手順 22、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーを緩めます: 手順 22、 2の画像 2
    • ラウドスピーカーは強力な接着ガスケットで固定されています。これを取り外す前に、数カ所をこじ開けて、接着シールを乖離させてください。

    • スパッジャーの先端を、ラウドスピーカーの下側右コーナーの下に差し込みます。

    • デバイスからラウドスピーカーを緩めながらこじ開けます。

  23. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を、ラウドスピーカー上部左側コーナーの下に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーでバッテリーに穴を開けないようご注意ください。

    • ラウドスピーカーを緩めるため、こじ開けます。

  24. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 24、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 24、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を、ラウドスピーカー上部端の下から左側端に向けて差し込みます。

    • ラウドスピーカーを緩めるために、こじ開けます。

  25. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーを取り出します: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ラウドスピーカーを取り出します: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • ラウドスピーカーを取り出します。

    • 交換用のラウドスピーカーを装着する前に、接着ガスケットの状態を確認してください。

    • 状態が良好であれば、ガスケットの再利用ができます。ガスケットが出口のホールを覆っていないか確認してください。

    • ガスケットが所定の位置から引き抜かれている場合は、ガスケットを取り外して、プレカットされた接着剤ストリップまたはTesaテープを装着します。

    tesa tape seems hard to come by in my town. Is there anything else I could use?

    Michael Schlimmer - 返信

    Never mind. A bunch of tesa tape came with the kit

    Michael Schlimmer - 返信

    Adhesive is VERY strong. Used the Ifixit opening tool on the uppder edge between battery and speaker to get better leverage without risking cable / board underneath or the battery.

    Stuart Clark - 返信

  26. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ブルーのアンテナケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 26、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ブルーのアンテナケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 26、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ブルーのアンテナケーブルを充電アセンブリ上のソケットからこじ開けて、接続を外します。

  27. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 27、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 27、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、慎重にこじ開け、アンテナケーブルを接地クリップから解放します。

    • ケーブルは脆くて、切断しやすいです。ワイヤーがしっかりと固定されているように感じる場合、スパッジャーの先端を使用してクリップを少し押しながら開いて、もう一度作業をやり直してください。

  28. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ブラックのアンテナケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ブラックのアンテナケーブルの接続を外します: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、 USB-Cポート付近のソケットから黒色のアンテナケーブルをこじ開け、接続を外します。

  29. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, アンテナケーブルの配線を外します: 手順 29、 1の画像 1
    • 慎重に両方のアンテナケーブルを外して、充電アセンブリから取り出します。

  30. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換: 手順 30、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、充電アセンブリのコネクタをデバイス右側端付近のマザーボードのソケットからこじ開けて、接続を外します。

    • SIMカードリーダーの上部からフレックスケーブルを慎重に剥がします。

  31. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ディスプレイコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 31、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ディスプレイコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 31、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、デバイス右側端付近のディスプレイ用フレックスケーブルを固定している、黒いテープを慎重にこじ開けます。

    • メタル製ツールの使用は控えてください。フレックスケーブルにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイコネクタをマザーボードからこじ開けて、接続を外します。

  32. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 黒いテープをバッテリーから剥がします: 手順 32、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 黒いテープをバッテリーから剥がします: 手順 32、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, 黒いテープをバッテリーから剥がします: 手順 32、 3の画像 3
    • バッテリー付近での作業をする際は、スパッジャーでバッテリーに穴を開けてしまわないよう、特にご注意ください。

    • スパッジャーの先端をバッテリーとマザーボードを繋ぐ黒いテープの下に差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを割れ目に沿ってスライドし、バッテリー側からテープを剥がします。

    • バッテリー側からテープを慎重に剥がしたら、剥がしたテープを作業の邪魔にならないように折りたたみます。

  33. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, プレスコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 33、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, プレスコネクタの接続を外します: 手順 33、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーを使って、次の7つのプレスフィット型コネクタをマザーボードのソケットから接続を外します。

    • 外部ボタンコネクタ

    • 上部マイク用コネクタ

    • イヤホンコネクタ

    • 左側握るセンサー(Active Edge)用コネクタ

    • スクリーンコネクタ

    • 右側握るセンサー(Active Edge)用コネクタ

    • SIMトレイコネクタ

    Note the "screen connector" mentioned here SHOULD refer to the smaller, upper screen connector. The one indicated here was already disconnected in step 31.

    Ray Livingston - 返信

  34. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, イヤピーススピーカーのケーブルをマザーボードから: 手順 34、 1の画像 1
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、イヤホンスピーカーのフレックスケーブルをこじ開けて上向きに曲げ、マザーボードを覆わないように固定します。

    I STRONGLY recommend simply REMOVING the phone speaker at this step. It is VERY easy to damage the flex cable when removing the motherboard if the speaker is left in place. Removing the speaker entirely takes only a few seconds. Just be sure to replace the adhesive when re-installing. TESA tape works fine here.

    Ray Livingston - 返信

    When re-installing, make sure you remember this part when putting the motherboard back in. I followed the steps in reverse order, as suggested, and almost damaged the orange flex cable when I pushed it down.

    Alex Schultz - 返信

  35. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 35、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, ネジを外します: 手順 35、 2の画像 2
    この手順で使用する道具:
    iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
    $2.99
    購入する
    • 下の幾つかのネジは大変小さな接地クリップを固定しています。ネジを外した後、これらのクリップを紛失しないように、くれぐれもご注意ください。

    • マザーボードを固定している次の6本のネジを外します。

    • 4.2 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 1.9 mmプラスネジー3本

    • 4.3 mmプラスネジー1本

    • 3.83 mm スタンドオフネジー1本

    • スタンドオフネジはスタンドオフネジ専用ビットで取り外すのが一番ですが、急な際には、小サイズのマイナスドライバーでも対応できます。滑って、周辺のコンポーネントにダメージを与えないようご注意ください。

    • 3つの小さなメタル製接地クリップを取り出します。

    During reassembly, don’t forget to replace the plastic piece before placing the 4.3mm screw.

    William DeCook - 返信

    be careful not to forgetto remove the bottom screw not to damage your motherboard

    Paul - 返信

  36. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, アンテナブラケットを外します: 手順 36、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, アンテナブラケットを外します: 手順 36、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, アンテナブラケットを外します: 手順 36、 3の画像 3
    • デバイスの上部左端からアンテナブラケットを慎重に取り出します。

    • メタル製接地クリップを装着する際は:

    • シルバー側が上向きになるようにクリップの位置を確認します。

    • ティアドロップ(涙の)形をしたクリップは、デバイス端に先端を向けます。

    • 二重穴が付いたクリップは、フレーム右上のネジ穴に向かって下向きに下ろします。

  37. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードの位置を確認します: 手順 37、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードの位置を確認します: 手順 37、 2の画像 2
    • マザーボード上部左のコーナー付近、すなわちリアカメラの真下にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。

    • マザーボードを緩めるため、慎重にこじ開けます。全てのフレックスケーブルを折り曲げて、動きやすくします。

    • マザーボードの装着力が強い場合、フレックスケーブルもしくは、ネジが残っていないか確認してください。

  38. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを緩めます: 手順 38、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを緩めます: 手順 38、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーをマザーボード上部端の下に差し込み、マザーボードを緩めるために慎重にこじ開けます。

    • イヤホンスピーカーのフレックスケーブルがマザーボードに対して強く押し付けられています。時間をかけてゆっくりと、フレックスケーブル周辺にマザーボードを近づけます。

    Make sure the ambient sensor is disconnected right underneath the flash!

    jrancanoarias - 返信

  39. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを外します: 手順 39、 2の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを外します: 手順 39、 2の画像 2
    • マザーボードの左側端を、反対側の右側に向けて慎重に上向きに持ち上げます。慎重にマザーボードに押し込まれたプレスコネクタを、作業の邪魔にならないよう押し出します。

  40. Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを外します: 手順 40、 3の画像 1 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを外します: 手順 40、 3の画像 2 Google Pixel 3 マザーボードの交換, マザーボードを外します: 手順 40、 3の画像 3
    • マザーボードの上部端をフレームから慎重に持ち上げます。

    • マザーボードを取り出します。

    • マザーボードを再装着する際は、フレックスケーブルのコネクタを、ボード下で挟まないようにご注意ください。

    • イヤピースフレックスケーブル周辺にマザーボードを再装着する際、難しい場合があります。 イヤピーススピーカーを慎重に外して、マザーボードをインストールして、イヤピーススピーカーを再装着することができます。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。

修理が上手く進みませんか?トラブルシュートのヘルプには、Google Pixel 3のアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。

14 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

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Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
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Arthur Shi

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7 件のコメント

Hallo,

wo bekomme ich denn ein neues Mainboard her? Ich komme nicht mehr ins recovery und vermute Mainboarddefekt.

Helge - 返信

I followed your instructions to the letter. Got it all put back together, but before affixing the back glass, I powered up the Pixel 3 to make sure all features are working. The touch screen does not work, now, but it did before. Any advice?

Philip Wickstrom - 返信

Hi Philip,

Does the screen light up? If it doesn’t, I would suggest disconnecting the battery connector and double-checking the display connector to make sure it is properly seated. As I looked into your question, I noticed that the step was missing a disconnection procedure—so thank you! I’ve amended that step.

Arthur Shi -

Hi, I met the same issue as you, the touch didn't work after replacing the mother board. Do you know why? And have you fixed the problem?

notreally -

Where can I buy the motherboard? Is the 128 GB motherboard different from the 64 GB?

Orlando Terte - 返信

You can find the motherboards on ebay here https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=goo...

Paul -

muy interesante todo, seria bueno compartieras donde comprar la placa madre de reemplazo que sea original, para no caer en estafas, en mi caso se me rompió el regulador de voltaje del LCD el PM8005 y no tengo idea de donde lo venden para comprarlo, solo me queda la opción de una placa nueva. Si fueras tan amable de compartir donde comprarla te lo agradecemos. Excelente trabajo por cierto.

Yunis Maikel Suárez Martinez - 返信

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