必要な工具と部品
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You may find few tiny metal shims at mount bolt connection points. My lens has just one. Memorize shim position and put it back when assembling for proper optical alignment. Also, remove dark foam bar – it serves to hold electronics board in place.
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Then unscrew two black bolts (marked in blue), and accurately release three ribbon cables. Make sure you don’t touch electronic board surfaces, keep it by holding edges – it’s important!
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Electronic board has special section for aperture ring contacts, and it is covered with thin layer of lubricant. I never saw that in any electronic lens disassembled before, so be very attentive and don’t accidentally wipe that lubricant (or sealing gel, I don’t exactly know its purpose).
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Then unscrew two black bolts and take out AF drive module.
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That is final disassembly point which can be easily done. Assemble lens back in reversive order.
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However if you very much need to have access under the rear glass module the extreme challenge is starting at this point. I had to remove large 1.5mm wide dust particle, so I didn’t find other options but spend about 30 minutes accurately cutting out white factory glue piece by piece.
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It’s very messy process generating tons of glue particles. After finishing that I also used very thin flat screwdriver to apply additional pressure between rear module plastic frame and lens core cylinder. Rotating rear lens frame about 15 degrees CCW allows to remove it.
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I’ve spent another 10 minutes removing glue particles from surfaces, and used air blowing to remove most accidental particles traveled inside. As a result I cleared that huge dust particle under the rear glass, but it was hard process : )
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Alternative way to access inner glass surface of aperture chamber is to disassemble front area.
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I’m using double sided thick adhesive tape and empty frame from lens filter. Add tape pieces like shown on picture.
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Unscrewing nameplate ring requires rapid torque movement CCW to break few dots of factory glue inside. Then it goes smooth until completely unscrewed from lens filter thread. Ring consists of two parts – thick plastic frame with side thread, and thin metal front plate with lens naming details.
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After removing front ring you have better access to lens optical core. At this point I’m stopping disassembly, because this lens sample works great and is clean inside.
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However if I had to access aperture chamber my next step would be unscrewing remaining six bolts, and try to accurately break the glue to remain it on frame parts.
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It’s important to understand that optical frame position is precisely calibrated on Fuji factory and glue is applied to hold exact position firm. If you preserve the glue on all location, there is a higher chance you can put frame back in properly aligned place.
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Fujinon XF 18mm F2 lens has very interesting construction and electronics position. It’s relatively easy to disassemble lens mechanically and access electronics. However all the optics from rear side sits inside plastic frames firmly glued together. It’s not like XF 27mm where only few tiny glue drops hold rear module – XF 18mm has tons of solid and very hard glue. So accessing optics for cleaning is extremely difficult.
Fujinon XF 18mm F2 lens has very interesting construction and electronics position. It’s relatively easy to disassemble lens mechanically and access electronics. However all the optics from rear side sits inside plastic frames firmly glued together. It’s not like XF 27mm where only few tiny glue drops hold rear module – XF 18mm has tons of solid and very hard glue. So accessing optics for cleaning is extremely difficult.
ある他の人がこのガイドを完成しました。
