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DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換

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  1. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換, リアカバー: 手順 1、 1の画像 1
    • リアカバーをコントローラに固定している5本の7.2 mmのプラスネジを取り外します。

    I have 2 controllers I'd like to fix, and both have at least one stripped screw in them. Any tips for removing them?

    Joe - 返信

  2. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • アナログスティックの間にあるリアカバーを押し、その下端をコントローラーの残りの部分からわずかに持ち上げます。

    Es ist nicht ganz eindeutig das zwischen den beiden Analog-Sticks gedrückt werden muss. Der gelbe Punkt fällt kaum auf. Ein Bild mit Daumen an dieser Stelle wäre gut oder soooo…

    Tom - 返信

    it’s not very clear but for this step you need to push where the yellow dot is shown on the picture. it’s rather tough. you kind of have to move the whole back plate a bit for it to work.

    Brandon der Blatter - 返信

    I’m stuck at this step because I can’t for the life of me undo the clip

    IttyBittyGamerVR - 返信

    Yeah I’m lost here too. I’m pushing where the dot is but nothing is happening. What am I trying to accomplish by pushing there? Is there a clasp on the inside I’m trying to undo or something? I really don’t want to break the controller by using too much force or opening it the wrong way.

    Could it be that the sixaxis I have is constructed differently? Or is this just a difficult step?

    Joe - 返信

    Adding: I ended up getting the shell off but ended up breaking off a small piece which I'm guessing was securing the front and back shells together. The trigger buttons and pieces remained intact on one of my two controllers which is what I was worried about, though I did have to fit the small trigger pieces back in.

    The one controller seemed to fit back together just fine without the small piece that broke off, and buttons seemed to feel and work fine too.

    Joe -

    I had to use a small flathead to lever it apart.

    mbelanger - 返信

  3. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • リアカバーをコントローラーの上端に向かって少し押して、2番目のトリガーのフロントエッジを出します。

    • 2番目のトリガーが飛び出さないように、コントローラーの残りの部分から背面カバーを引き離してください。

    • アクシデントでトリガーボタンが飛び出た場合、トリガーボタンを再装着する手順を参照してください。

    the "trigger button guide" link links back to this page :o

    Alexander McMahon - 返信

    I accidentally popped a trigger off, and both L1 and R1, because I skimmed and didn't read this step. Fortunately it's not hard. The tricky part with the triggers is that there's a little spring on them. You have to press the side of the spring that's pointing away from the trigger against the sloped surface of the controller (look at the other trigger for reference, if you only popped one off). Then you just slide the trigger on until the "handlebar" bits near the center click into place.

    briancaraher - 返信

    The reset button – a small mostly-rectangular rubberized piece – fell out as I removed the rear cover. It covers the hole near the middle screw and has a post that presses SW1 on the motherboard.

    Fletcher Stern - 返信

  4. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換, バッテリー: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • マザーボードからバッテリーを持ち上げて、バッテリーコネクタにアクセスします。

  5. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 5、 1の画像 1
    • バッテリーコネクタをマザーボードのソケットから慎重に引き抜きます。

    • ピンセットまたはペンチを使用して、バッテリーコネクタを掴むと便利です。 コネクタを引っ張るだけです。 赤と黒のワイヤーは引っ張ったり、取り外さないでください。

    be careful with the connector, it was hard at the first time to take it away, i was close to break the wire

    Mugen - 返信

    Where can I purchase an Input Board?

    Cody - 返信

    To safely remove the connector, you can slide a thin screwdriver inside two slots that can be found on top of the connctor housing (the beige colored one), which allow you to push on the connector. Do this slowly, prying first through one slot, then through the other, until the connector is out. This will allow you to remove the connector without pulling by accident on the wires.

    Adriana Fulgenzi - 返信

    Thanks Adriana. Good advice. My local battery replacement guy will not touch PS3 controllers.

    DutchAussieProductions -

    Hi Adriana,

    I have to say, that tip really saved me. I was pulling on the wires (this is my first time doing this) and wasgoing nowhere.

    Thank you!

    Michael Vichiola -

    I highly, HIGHLY recommend that if anyone bought the protect toolkit, that they use the SIM bit as that is extremely helpful for this step!

    Michael Vichiola -

    Take note: The PS3 remote controller in this guide has some white plastic spacers shaped like ( and ) on the board which keep the battery from touching the chip. The PS3 remote controller I disassembled has no spacers on the board but rather the board has 6 holes - 4 small square corner alignment holes and two rectangular retaining holes. The battery was an LIP1472 but the battery pack casing had 4 alignment pins and 2 retaining tabs to fit into the board and hold the battery away from the chip. Why does it matter? It may or may not matter, however the fact that all designs include separation indicates that it might matter. Possible reasons are that the battery might touch the chip and cause electrostatic damage, the battery might touch the chip and not allow the chip to dissipate heat properly, or the battery might simply rattle a bit. I can not find any replacement batteries with pins and tabs. It may be necessary to create some standoffs from plastic similar to those shown above and attach to board.

    Warp9pnt9 - 返信

    My controllers new battery (ordered from ifixit) doesn’t have connectors on it like my dead battery. Help?

    Michael Vichiola - 返信

    Its literally completely flat (the battery)

    Michael Vichiola - 返信

    What's the battery's voltage?

    Keith Wucherer - 返信

    The battery is 3.7 voltage 610 mAH from Sony's LIP1359 battery. Max charging is 4.2 V and 0.4A, but I found a better one from Digikey. It is still required to modify the battery's connector.

    My new battery for the PS3 controller.

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...

    Michael Marr -

    Yes, yes, yes brilliant suggestion! I broke the wires to the battery trying to wiggle the connector off using needle-nose pliers, but pushing through those slots on the top saved the day even after that little fiasco. Yay.

    Steven Folberg - 返信

  6. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換, マザーボードアセンブリ: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • フロントカバーにマザーボードを固定している7.2mmプラスネジ を1本外します。

    Most of the times, the only thing you need to repair to fix random key-presses is the soft plastic under the input-board connector to the motherboard.

    At step 6 just move the motherboard upwards and you'll be able to see the connector.

    Take the black soft-plastic-thing under it, and make it thicker with some tape. ( roll some tape around it 3-4 times - cut the tape properly so it can fit afterwards )

    Now put everything back.

    Random Presses are gone. Both of my controllers had this problem after a few hot summers and many hours of gameplay... both are fixed now.

    Nick Preveza - 返信

  7. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • トリガーボタンのリテイナーをフロントカバーからわずかにスライドして、引き離します。

    • 両側の#1 ボタンを取り出します。

  8. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • 振動モーターのリテイナーをフロントカバーから引き抜いて、マザーボードアセンブリを外します。

    It should be noted that my controller (Australian) has the motors mounted directly the the housing. Once the two retaining screws were removed each motor was connected to the motherboard assembly by the wires alone.

    Arthur N - 返信

    Yes, my NA controllers were like this as well.

    geoff -

    My ~2012 EU controller (CECHZC2E) differs from this point as well. The entire white assembly comes out of the black shell by pressing in the latches on both sides of the vibration motors (you can see a small bit of white plastic stick out from under the black shell, that is where you press down).

    Martijn Storck - 返信

  9. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • マザーボードアセンブリをフロントカバーから外します。

    • マザーボードアセンブリを外す際は、ボタンとそのカバーが脱落する可能性があるため、前面カバーを上下逆に傾けないようにしてください。

    On my controller the button contact filament stayed inside the controller housing. Concerningly this exposed the contact ribbon for the buttons and sticks against the back of the logic board. However, the rest of the service with without issue, and the controller worked fine. This controller had a gray battery inside of it, and was likely a 60GB launch controller.

    geoff - 返信

  10. DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換, アナログスティックカバー: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 DualShock 3アナログスティックのカバーの交換, アナログスティックカバー: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • マザーボードに取り付けられているジョイスティックポストからアナログスティックカバーをまっすぐ引き上げます。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、以下の手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

83 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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作成者

3人の作成者と共同で作成されました。

Andrew Bookholt

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3 件のコメント

Reassembly doesn’t quite follow these steps in reverse order. Proper reassembly with the shoulder buttons is tricky. However, its much more simple to omit resinstalling the ‘1’ buttons until the controller housing is completely reassembled. They have one-way snapping clips on the edges, and appear designed to installed this way. Also, it’s good to double check the internal ‘1’ button switches are correctly centered inside the controller housing before4 snap in the ‘1’ buttons.

geoff - 返信

Question; do I have to remove the vibration motors to remove the joysticks?

efsebios - 返信

Thanks Andrew, your guide worked like a charm. My roomie spilled soda on the controller and the buttons were sticky. Cleaned it all up and all is good. As an aside, this controller had a rattle inside from new. I found a little black piece of plastic that looks like a bridge of sort. Now the rattle is gone too.

brent valentine - 返信

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