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はじめに

あなたのApple Watch、バッテリーが膨らんでいたり、電池の持ちが悪くなっていませんか?

このガイドに従って交換しましょう!

バッテリーが膨張している場合は適切な方法で処理を行なってください

  1. 作業の前にApple Watchの電源を切り、充電器から取り外してください。 タッチスクリーンが破損し、電源を切れない場合は、ここに示されている方法で電源を切ってください。
    • 作業の前にApple Watchの電源を切り、充電器から取り外してください。

    • タッチスクリーンが破損し、電源を切れない場合は、ここに示されている方法で電源を切ってください。

  2. iOpenerを準備(またはヘアドライヤーかヒートガン)し、触れなくなるくらいの温度まで加熱します。
    • iOpenerを準備(またはヘアドライヤーかヒートガン)し、触れなくなるくらいの温度まで加熱します。

    • iOpenerを1分以上ウォッチにあてて、スクリーンを温めます。ケースに装着している接着剤が完全に柔らかくなるまで待ちます。

    • iOpenerを再度温める必要があるかもしれません。あるいは、iOpenerを当てた部分が冷たくなってくるため、作業がしやすいぐらいにスクリーン(接着剤)を温めるためにスクリーン上でiOpenerを動かしていきます。

    Save yourself some time—use a hair dryer. After multiple efforts with the iOpener, I could not get the screen to pop enough to pry it up. That’s when I grabbed a hair dryer and had it off within minutes.

    Patrick - 返信

    I heated it up with hair dryer for less then 2min and stick the blade in that was supplied with infix kit and popped right off.

    MIke C - 返信

    • スクリーンとデバイス本体の間の隙間はとても薄いため、これらを乖離させるためには先端がシャープな刃が必要です。次の注意点をよく読んでから作業に移ってください。

    • ナイフと指を十分離して作業を行ってください。心配な場合は、空いている方の手を市販の革手袋や園芸用手袋など、頑丈な手袋で保護してください。

    • 力加減にご注意ください。あまり力を入れすぎるとナイフが滑って怪我をしたり、ウォッチにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • 作業中は保護眼鏡を着用してください。ナイフやガラスの破片が飛ぶことがあります。

    In my instance, the problem started with the face/screen popping off because the battery swelled. So I didn’t need to heat the face and pry it off. I did heat it a bit in order to warm the residue adhesive on the edge of the face and the case frame and found it easier to scrap it off gently with the craft blade that came with the $39.21 battery replacement kit. If this is your issue, you can skip the prying up steps.

    jeb605 - 返信

    Same situation as jeb605 - my watch battery swelled and popped the screen off. Fortunately the force touch sensor did not debond from the watch. Thinking about just cleaning the back side of the screen and applying new adhesive. I used an alternate kit that did not come with the force touch sensor.

    Tom Karches - 返信

  3. 先がカーブしている刃を使うとケースに傷がつきにくく、ガラスにひびが入ってしまうリスクを軽減できます。刃のカーブしている部分のみを使ってこじ開けます。刃の先端や平らな面は使わないでください。 デバイス正面下部の端のガラスとケースの隙間に刃のカーブ部分をしっかりと真下に押し下げます。 ナイフに対して完全にコントロールをしながら作業を進めるようご注意ください。隙間が一度開いたら、ナイフに力を入れすぎないようにしてください。滑ってバッテリーを破損してしまうことがあります。
    • 先がカーブしている刃を使うとケースに傷がつきにくく、ガラスにひびが入ってしまうリスクを軽減できます。刃のカーブしている部分のみを使ってこじ開けます。刃の先端や平らな面は使わないでください。

    • デバイス正面下部の端のガラスとケースの隙間に刃のカーブ部分をしっかりと真下に押し下げます。

    • ナイフに対して完全にコントロールをしながら作業を進めるようご注意ください。隙間が一度開いたら、ナイフに力を入れすぎないようにしてください。滑ってバッテリーを破損してしまうことがあります。

    • ナイフは隙間を開くために無理やり押し込ませるものです。するとケースからガラスが押し上がっていきます。

    • ガラスが押し上がったら、丁寧にナイフを下向きに位置を変えていき、ガラスをもっと押し上げるようにして隙間を広げていきます。

    It is not possible to separate the screen from the casing? I have heated this thing numerous times and the opening is way too small to get any type of blade, knife or other tool in between. Any suggestions???

    Paul - 返信

    Using a curved blade like the guide recommends, angle the blade straight down between the glass and the edge of the frame, mid-way along the bottom edge of the case. The metal of the case will flex *just a little bit*, allowing you to slowly rotate the blade so the cutting edge is now pointing towards the center of the watch instead of down towards your work surface. You may need to rock the blade back and forth, sort of massaging the curve into the seam between the glass and the metal before it works. And like they mention above, lots of heat. I used the heatpack they sell, put it in my toaster oven on 200. I started at 130, and went up in 20 degree increments until it worked.

    Pete -

    I've tried everything, heating it up until it's too hot to touch, pressing the knife in the gap straight down, at an angle, nothing seems to work. I've tried using all my arm strength and it still doesn't even enter the gap. Is the iFixit Jimmy not thin enough for the job?

    Kenneth - 返信

    It’s not. The Jimmy’s a great pry tool, but not a cutting blade and not sharp enough for this particular job. You want a curved razor like the guide suggests.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just to emphasise after quite a struggle - the blade absolutely matters!! I tried about 5 and almost gave up before the last one lifted the glass quite easily. Obviously, you want a thin blade! No, thinner than that!

    Mark Moore - 返信

    Plenty of heat helps this part. Also PLEASE PLEASE wear a glove. Nearly lost a finger thinking I was careful enough…

    jake - 返信

    Apple Watch Ceramic Series 3… Unable to crack open even with curved razor. The tolerances are extremely tight. Does anyone have any tips? Being ceramic, there is no flex at all.

    kurt - 返信

    I got hung up on this step for over an hour. The key for me was to keep the watch straps on! I initially took them off thinking it would be easier to work with the watch, but I guess just the little pressure I placed on the glass while trying to hold the watch and use the blade was enough to keep it in place. At first I thought I didn’t use enough heat and ended up reheating the iOpener a few times and applying it to the watch over the course of an hour. I put the top strap on, put it back flat on the table and held the watch secure with just the strap. I gave it another go with the blade and the screen instantly popped off. Also, be careful with the force you use on the blade… it seems with adequate heat, you don’t need to use that much (I ended up cutting through the Force Touch sensor and punctured the battery).

    phchang - 返信

    I would never use a knife like this to remove the screen. It’s way to wide to get in between the glass and body, without potentially breaking the glass. I use the Ultra Thin iFlex Opening Tool, sold by IFIXIT. Seriously. You won’t wanna use a fat blade like that after you take the iFlex for a test drive.

    Donald Fournier - 返信

    I used the rounded blade provided by iFixIt themselves as part of the Series 1 battery replacement kit and even that was wide enough that it scratched my case while trying to pry the screen up. Also I had to heat the iOpener like 3 or 4 times consecutively at 30s each and leave it on the screen for 5+ minutes before the screen would even budge. Heating for 30 sec and leaving on the screen for 1 minute was not even close to enough.

    Happily After Ever - 返信

  4. 隙間が十分に開いたら、ガラスの下に開封ピックの先端を滑り込ませます。 開封ピックを下部の端に沿ってスライドしながら、スクリーンとケースを留めている接着剤を剥がしていきます。 奥まで開封ピックを挿し込まないようにご注意ください。約3㎜程度で十分です。これ以上深く押し込むとケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。
    • 隙間が十分に開いたら、ガラスの下に開封ピックの先端を滑り込ませます。

    • 開封ピックを下部の端に沿ってスライドしながら、スクリーンとケースを留めている接着剤を剥がしていきます。

    • 奥まで開封ピックを挿し込まないようにご注意ください。約3㎜程度で十分です。これ以上深く押し込むとケーブルにダメージを与えてしまいます。

  5. 開封ピックを動かしながら、デバイス横のボタン側までスライドしていきます。移動しながら、隙間を広げて、接着剤を剥がすように丁寧に押し込みながら作業を進めてください。 くれぐれも奥まで挿し込まないようご注意ください。開封ピックを動かしながらの作業となるため、先端のみ挿し込むことが難しい時があります。 くれぐれも奥まで挿し込まないようご注意ください。開封ピックを動かしながらの作業となるため、先端のみ挿し込むことが難しい時があります。
    • 開封ピックを動かしながら、デバイス横のボタン側までスライドしていきます。移動しながら、隙間を広げて、接着剤を剥がすように丁寧に押し込みながら作業を進めてください。

    • くれぐれも奥まで挿し込まないようご注意ください。開封ピックを動かしながらの作業となるため、先端のみ挿し込むことが難しい時があります。

  6. 開封ピックを右側端上部まで動かしたら、次はスクリーンの上部端に移ります。 開封ピックを右側端上部まで動かしたら、次はスクリーンの上部端に移ります。 開封ピックを右側端上部まで動かしたら、次はスクリーンの上部端に移ります。
    • 開封ピックを右側端上部まで動かしたら、次はスクリーンの上部端に移ります。

  7. スクリーン上部の左側まで開封ピックを動かしていき、次は残りの接着剤を剥がすため左側まで回していきます。 スクリーンから接着剤をきちんと取るため、開封ピックを画像(右端)のように差し込んだままにしてください。 スクリーンから接着剤をきちんと取るため、開封ピックを画像(右端)のように差し込んだままにしてください。
    • スクリーン上部の左側まで開封ピックを動かしていき、次は残りの接着剤を剥がすため左側まで回していきます。

    • スクリーンから接着剤をきちんと取るため、開封ピックを画像(右端)のように差し込んだままにしてください。

  8. 最初に使用した開封ピックをデバイスの左側に残したまま、次の開封ピックを使って、もう一度スクリーン全体の接着剤が完全に剥がれているか確認します。 最初に使用した開封ピックをデバイスの左側に残したまま、次の開封ピックを使って、もう一度スクリーン全体の接着剤が完全に剥がれているか確認します。 最初に使用した開封ピックをデバイスの左側に残したまま、次の開封ピックを使って、もう一度スクリーン全体の接着剤が完全に剥がれているか確認します。
    • 最初に使用した開封ピックをデバイスの左側に残したまま、次の開封ピックを使って、もう一度スクリーン全体の接着剤が完全に剥がれているか確認します。

  9. スクリーン上部端の左側付近に、スクリーンとウォッチ内部に接続している2本のケーブルがあります。こじ開けていく際にはこのケーブルにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。 スクリーンの右側からゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。 同様に、左側スクリーンも接着剤から外してこじ開けていきます。ーしかし、2本のケーブルによってスクリーンが繋がっているため、完全に取り出さないでください。
    • スクリーン上部端の左側付近に、スクリーンとウォッチ内部に接続している2本のケーブルがあります。こじ開けていく際にはこのケーブルにダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。

    • スクリーンの右側からゆっくりとこじ開けていきます。

    • 同様に、左側スクリーンも接着剤から外してこじ開けていきます。ーしかし、2本のケーブルによってスクリーンが繋がっているため、完全に取り出さないでください

  10. ディスプレイ接着剤の間にForce Touch センサーの表面が確認できたら、それはセンサーが2つに分離してしまったことを意味しています。交換するための修理が必要です。 iFixitスクリーンとバッテリーの修理キットには、交換用のForce Touchセンサーが含まれてます。 センサーの上部層は、スクリーンの裏側に接着剤で固定されていることがあります。その場合、センサーを下向きに押して、外してください。
    • ディスプレイ接着剤の間にForce Touch センサーの表面が確認できたら、それはセンサーが2つに分離してしまったことを意味しています。交換するための修理が必要です。

    • iFixitスクリーンとバッテリーの修理キットには、交換用のForce Touchセンサーが含まれてます。

    • センサーの上部層は、スクリーンの裏側に接着剤で固定されていることがあります。その場合、センサーを下向きに押して、外してください。

    Hi, thanks for the guide, nice work. I miss a picture of the natural opening of the screen, as the mentioned “Force Touch sensor slides” gets connected from the screen to the main body of the watch by a pair of very thin wires. None of these wires are seen in any of the pictures among this guide, which may lead novices to not pay enough attention to them, broke them accidentally, or not knowing what are them for. Picture on step 13 is absolutely impossible without removing the slides / thin wires of the force touch sensor in advance.

    Cheers

    Javier Enrique Díaz - 返信

  11. スクリーンを押し上げて、ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルに気をつけながら、左側に移します。 スクリーンを押し上げて、ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルに気をつけながら、左側に移します。 スクリーンを押し上げて、ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルに気をつけながら、左側に移します。
    • スクリーンを押し上げて、ディスプレイデーターとデジタイザーケーブルに気をつけながら、左側に移します。

    I have 2 other small cables which are missing in your photos. Can you also explain what to do with them? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_6ngMn9...

    Pavel Guzenko - 返信

    Looks like you forced touch sensor is still attached to the screen and not the body. I’ve got the same issues. I’m going to try to use the plastic tool and heat to gently remove it from the screen and return it down to the body. You can see it in their fix of it… Apple Watch Force Touchセンサーの交換 . Hope this helps.

    Andrew Marjamaa - 返信

    Be VERY careful when moving the display and attached 2 cables. While they are reasonably protected it is easy to over stress these cables, resulting in tearing of the mini ribbon cable attached at the base. Move the screen the absolute minimum required to get to the battery.

    Joe Smith - 返信

  12. ウォッチを少なくとも1㎝の高さの上に置いて下さいー小さな箱や本の端を利用すると便利です。これは、スクリーンを垂直に固定して、バッテリーにアクセスしやすくするためです。
    • ウォッチを少なくとも1㎝の高さの上に置いて下さいー小さな箱や本の端を利用すると便利です。これは、スクリーンを垂直に固定して、バッテリーにアクセスしやすくするためです。

    • 作業中、スクリーンをぶつけたり、ケーブルをピンと張らないように気をつけてください。

    Your iFixit shipping box is a great size for this

    Joe Smith - 返信

    I would taped the watch to the elevated surface and rotated the surface around as I needed to

    Andy Campbell - 返信

    I could not get the face to swing out of the way as shown for fear of tearing the tab connectors. I let it “hang” as much as it would and had to work with it partly in the way through the entire process

    jeb605 - 返信

  13. ハサミを使って、バッテリーの幅に合うように開口ピックを切ってください。鋭利な角を残さないように丸みを持たせてください。 バッテリー右側とケースの間に切り込んだピックを挿入します。 一定の力でゆっくりとバッテリーを持ち上げます。システムボードにバッテリーを固定している接着剤を剥がします。
    • ハサミを使って、バッテリーの幅に合うように開口ピックを切ってください。鋭利な角を残さないように丸みを持たせてください。

    • バッテリー右側とケースの間に切り込んだピックを挿入します。

    • 一定の力でゆっくりとバッテリーを持ち上げます。システムボードにバッテリーを固定している接着剤を剥がします。

    • バッテリーを変形させたり、穴を開けないようにご注意ください。

    • 42mmモデルでは、バッテリー下に搭載されたシステムボードを、アクシデントでこじ開けてしまうことがあります。開口ピックを、バッテリーの下に差し込んだ際には、システムボードから離しながら持ち上げます。

    • 接着剤を弱めるため、必要に応じて、高濃度のイソプロピルアルコール(90%以上)をバッテリーの周辺と底に塗布してください。

    • バッテリーが接続されたままの状態で、取り外すことは絶対にしないでください

    I tried removing the battery with the prying tool as instructed, but I think it may have slightly damaged the outer black plastic wrapping of the battery. Does this mean the battery is now damaged and needs to be replaced? Or is that just a cover around the battery and it doesn’t matter? I just don’t want any battery chemicals leaking out. Asking before I stick the screen back on the watch, I’ve done all the rest and it seems fine otherwise.

    Danae - 返信

    Hi Danae, the black plastic is technically just protective, but I would highly recommend replacing the battery. It’s possible there is additional unseen damage, and that plastic helps protect against swelling and normal wear of the battery inside the device.

    Sam Goldheart -

    I had to use the pry tool instead of the pick as the pick was not moving it. Was careful not to damage the battery but found it much easier to get movement and know exactly where I was prying with the pry tool.

    Joey Totherow - 返信

    Great tutorial but I’ve run into a problem changing the battery on my 42mm Original Series watch .

    Getting the battery off with the pick has proven impossible and I’m about to try using the isopropyl alcohol.

    • Can you provide any tips on how best to apply it, how long to give it to take effect, how often to apply etc. ?

    • Given how narrow the gap is, also how to ensure nothing gets damaged by the alcohol?

    • Is there any inherent risk in using the pry tool as Joey ended up doing?

    Thanks for any advice

    Allan Davidson - 返信

  14. バッテリーを逆時計回りで回転させると、コネクターが確認できます。 バッテリーを逆時計回りで回転させると、コネクターが確認できます。
    • バッテリーを逆時計回りで回転させると、コネクターが確認できます。

  15. バッテリーを作業の邪魔にならない位置で掴み固定して、バッテリーケーブルコネクターを確認します。 バッテリーケーブルコネクターをデバイスのバッテリーケーブルから分離させるため、プラスチック製の開封ツールをケース底に押し当ててこじ開けます。 デバイスからバッテリーを取り出します。
    • バッテリーを作業の邪魔にならない位置で掴み固定して、バッテリーケーブルコネクターを確認します。

    • バッテリーケーブルコネクターをデバイスのバッテリーケーブルから分離させるため、プラスチック製の開封ツールをケース底に押し当ててこじ開けます。

    • デバイスからバッテリーを取り出します。

    • バッテリーが目に見えてへこんでいたり、変形している場合は、交換する必要があります。 最も良いのは、バッテリーを取り外したら必ず新しいバッテリーと交換することです。

    Why should you remove the battery if you only need to replace the screen?...?

    Douglas Richey - 返信

    Douglas - this iFixit is for Apple Watch Battery Replacement - looks like you need to remove the screen to replace the battery...

    jimvaughn6 - 返信

    You will find that it is a good precautionary measure to disconnect the battery anytime you are repairing or replacing a screen as a short can occur when reconnecting the screen rendering it useless even if you have the unit turned off.

    Bryan Solo - 返信

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - 返信

    Will removing the battery reset my icloud info? I have a guy who says he can do this, but i dont want him to run off with my watch after he replaces the battery…

    dreadmusicreview - 返信

    I did not disconnect the battery first. After replacing the screen, it didn’t work. I have to assume I created a short. The watch will still turn on and haptics are evident, but the display doesn’t work. Are there any further repairs to save my watch at this point?

    Scotty Beauchamp - 返信

    Yeah, sounds like you shorted part of the board. If it’s a Series 0 you’re working with, just go get a new one. Not worth fixing.

    Thomas Gehman -

    How do I insert the new battery???

    WebPoppy8 - 返信

    After replacing the battery I tried to turn it on and was presented with the red snake, I let it go for about an hour. When I checked it the red snake was gone, when I tried to turn it on it showed the Apple logo for about 4 seconds then went away. Is this normal, and if not what should I do?

    Donald Goodman - 返信

    I'm having a similar issue, did you manage to resolve it?

    Craig Lyon -

    Did you calibrate the battery? You need to fill it up completely and let it continue to charge for a few hours first.

    Grant Glass -

    Is it possible to place a battery in and charge/start the watch without the screen plugged in? I want to check integrity of the battery. I was thinking to put it on charge in a closed clear plastic container without the new screen on to see if the battery is good. I ‘really’ do not want to wait another 20 days for a battery replacement and the battery has no visual punctures, front looks good and the back where the adhesive is (or were, rather) is deflated and slightly ‘knobby’. I do not know if it is damage or just how it generally looks like or maybe it looks like so because of the old adhesive. It is not inflated or abnormally expanded. Anyone who knows about this? I used a hair dryer directly on the watch opened to loosen up the adhesive, is that a no-no?

    Philip Bromander - 返信

    The battery swelled up and popped off the screen, so went directly to Step 12. Luckily the adhesive below the Force Touch sensor was intact. Was able to complete the fix using the Adhesive Strip after replacing the battery. Works again! Thanks!

    Alex Danci - 返信

    The apple logo keeps flashing on my series 1 watch, tried force restart with crown and side button but it still just keeps on flashing the apple logo, does anyone have any advise? Is the issue with the battery? Do I need to get a new battery? I change the screen as the screen was broken and used the existing battery.

    shafeeqrahaman - 返信

    yes the issue was with battery, swapped with a new battery and booted up fine.

    shafeeqrahaman -

    Having the same issue.good to hear it’s the battery and not me.

    Grant Glass -

    my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)

    IXO bf - 返信

    Where should I dispose of my old I watch battery?

    oconnor84 - 返信

    I replaced the screen and battery on mine. Now, it will not charge. Everything works fine, except charging. Any ideas why this may be?

    Donald Fournier - 返信

    My series one has two other cables/strings in the bottom left corner. Why do none of the pictures address this?

    thatgreatdeal - 返信

    My watch hasn’t recalibrated with the new battery. Even a couple of weeks later I still get premature low battery - it can take hours for the final 10% to run out after the first 90% only took 9 hours. I left it off the charger for multiple days after installation and yet I could still quickly wake it up by pressing the crown to see the time reported with red numbers, so I don’t think it fully ran out.

    Is there a way to force calibration? A Google search didn’t yield anything useful in the first several pages of results.

    Chris B - 返信

    If you’re lucky (?) the swollen battery will pop the screen right off for you. Anyone know where to get a replacement battery for a Series 0 watch?

    rmann - 返信

    Watching various videos and instructions from others, I found that there’s no need to remove the screen if your goal is to only swap out the battery.

    It’s meant to make it easier to clean off the old glue and install some double-sided adhesive tape but it was far more simpler to loop the tape around the screen with a pair of tweezers than to try to wrangle with the metal bracket securing the display and digitiser cable connectors.

    T-7000 glue can presumably be used in lieu of double-sided adhesive tape but it’s definitely more messier.

    Anyway, I was initially quite annoyed about my battery expanding and popping the screen off but very quickly got over it when I realised it was a simple $20 DIY fix. Guess I got lucky this time..

    osienna - 返信

    I’m just replacing the battery. The screen and eveything is fine. While i’ve done just that and the new battery seems secure and eveything, i don’t know which is the adhesive strip that i’d use to re-secure the watch face back onto the watch itself. I don’t need a sensor because the watch face is fine, i just need the adhesive strip and i’m not seeing anything labelled as such in the kit. Ive got 2 tesa stickers (?) and one 3M sensor thing with a little compotent thingy attached to it. Which is the double sided adhesive that goes around the base of the watch to secure the face to the watch?? I was lucky in that my old swollen battery pushed the face off so replacing the battery was fairly easy. Now i just need to secure the face to the body. Any advice?

    Anthony Rezendes - 返信

終わりに

Force Touchセンサーの交換 の手順17以降の手順に従って、Apple Watchを再封印して修理を完了してください。

271 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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I did a battery replacement in a 38mm Series 1 iwatch and the darn battery is not charging properly. It's been on the charger about 3 hours and I'm only at 14%. Any suggestions?

shableigh226 - 返信

I managed to replace a swollen battery ($33.25 on amazon) that popped the screen, but this is not for the faint of heart. Special emphasis needs to be placed on not twisting the digitizer connectors as they are quite fragile ($119.99 on ebay for a new digitizer). It's also easy to damage the force-touch sensor ($24.95 on iFixit). You also need adhesive gaskets ($12.98 for 5 on Amazon)

iFixit lists all the parts required but were out of stock on all but one of the items I needed at the time.

Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV2...

Digitizer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262744629522?_tr...

Force Touch Sensor Gasket:

[リンクされた製品が存在しない、もしくは無効: IF308-013-2]

Adhesive Strips:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4J...

Charles Fulnecky - 返信

Appreciate the detailed steps, happy for the option but after reading the $79 to get Apple to replace vs the $33, plus tools for battery... taking it to Apple Store does not seem so bad.

fourydog - 返信

79 is just for battery …there Will be around 220$ service fees extra !!!

purnendra pratap singh -

Nope $79 complete. Just had it done at Apple store. Took about 30 minutes.

Albert -

#purnendra pratap singh - I think you just wanted to post something, or you like arguing because what you say is fundamentally false. It’s 79$ incl. Service fee

Iulian-Casian Merce -

I’ve been on a bootloop for a day now after replacing the battery for my Apple Watch series 1

any suggestions on how I can fix this?

9cRon Cordero - 返信

I’ve been stuck on a bootloop for a day now

9cRon Cordero - 返信

I was planning to only replace the seal - just glue it back down and call it good. The watch front looks flat when I put it back and the battery doesn’t seem to be pushing up on it. (!&&* I had been thinking about buying some super- glue or silicone glue and not ordering anything)

THOUGHTS? SUGGESTIONS? BEEN THERE DONE THAT?

Mark Bailey - 返信

glue does the job …

Mattis -

How long did it take to charge the new battery after replacement?

Micki Bartlett - 返信

I heated the glass until it was too hot to hold a finger on, but I still could not pry the glass loose with the curved razor knife blade. I also tried pulling the glass up with a suction cup and was able to exert quite a bit of force but not enough to release the glass.

Stephen Casner - 返信

I had a swollen battery that popped the display off. Apple store would not replace the battery for $79, so I got a replacement from iFixit. The paper “how to condition your battery” notice got stuck to the glue on the replacement battery, so I used a little bit of Scotch double-sided tape to stick the battery to the case interior. Wish I’d used glue, the display is raised a barely noticeable fraction of a millimeter. Connecting the new battery to the battery cable connector was very difficult. I ended up using a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze them (carefully and delicately!) together. Be sure to remove the existing adhesive gasket lining before adding the replacement: I had to use an exacto blade to peel up and cut off a bit of it, then tweezers to pull it off. Applying the replacement double-sided tape gasket is very tricky. If I were to do it again, I’d decouple the display cable first (and get a second pair of hands). Fortunately, I have an LED-lighted magnifier visor and lots of patience.

Sugar Fish - 返信

I did it, and made a video about it

You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/s8uyA3dQgXg

Bill Debevc - 返信

The battery change was not difficult, everything worked as described, all the tools and parts were there (even the battery adhesive was included, despite the description saying that it isn’t).

Except one thing: the description is missing what to do if the Force-Touch-sensor is NOT damaged.

What is the best way to put the screen back on without replacing the Force-Touch sensor?

Does it need glue? Or just re-heating and pressing it on is enough?

I tried the re-heating and so far ok, but I’d really like some guidance… will this hold? Or should I use glue… what kind of glue?

it worked - 返信

follow-up: Found the answer - it is not enough to just re-heat it, display falls of again. And in the process of cleaning the edges I finally managed to rip off one contact of the Force touch sensor. So maybe should have taken it out in the first place to do the cleaning. Was just trying to avoid disconnecting the other two connectors which looked scary but wasnt.

Ended up having to use the sensor that came with the kit… and then… big disappointment - the necessary screwdriver bit was missing from the kit. I think the screwdriver is supposed to come with three bits, one of them the tri-tip. But mine had only two bits in the handle… maybe better that way, cos looking at those other bits… not very impressive precision there. So ordered a separate Y000 screwdriver online and did the whole thing again. Now I think it finally works though…

Instructions almost great (missing my scenario), parts great, tools big miss. Probably worth 3.5 stars…

it worked - 返信

my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)

IXO bf - 返信

after following all the steps and getting the battery from ifixit my watch will not charge or turn on now. i will see the apple logo for a second then it goes dead. any ideas?

james transue - 返信

I had to manually charge the battery outside of the watch as it had entered “over-discharged protection” (reading 0 volts) and the watch doesn’t appear to have the power to kick the battery back out of that mode. It only needed “charging” manually for a minute or so before it had enough power to run in the watch and charge that way. Did it on a breadboard with some solid core wire hooking up the positive (left wide gold pin) and ground (silver casing). I know they come sealed, but would be nice if the batteries were tested/charged enough before being sent out. I wouldn’t expect many people to be able/willing to manually charge a battery with the size of the connector, and also because it carries some risk!

Symptoms of this were the green charging snake appearing for less than a second, and then the watch not responding when pressing the button. It should wake the screen back up if the battery is okay/charging.

Chris Wright - 返信

My battery swelled up and made this a bunch easier to do. I used the pick (see second picture in step 14) in this orientation to drop a bit of alcohol down under the battery to help with the adhesive. That worked a treat! Battery is in and it’s on the charger now, waiting to see if force touch works when it boots up.

Tyler - 返信

Everything went well with the repair and the guide was tremendously helpful. Just a few caveats I’d like to add:

1. The old battery may REALLY be stuck down on to the case. Go VERY slowly when prying it out.

2. You will have to remove the screen, regardless whether or not you need to replace the Force Touch sensor. Prying apart that metal clip which encloses the screen cable, is a royal PITA…just be patient.

3. The adhesive ring to reseal the watch is quite flimsy to handle. You’ll have to be very careful lining it up properly. And make sure you really clean the surfaces with alcohol and let them dry thoroughly before applying the new adhesive ring.

Thanks iFixIt!!

John Merjave - 返信

I tried everything on here and once I replaced the battery nothing turned on. In fact with the old swollen battery it did turn on. I’m not sure if the battery I got is faulty or not. That or I have done the replacement incorrectly

Adrian Fedele - 返信

Replaced the battery but it wont charge. Screen shows a charging cable with a green lightning bolt, but it wont ever charge enough to turn on?

Lee Wampler - 返信

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