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はじめに

If your AL2216W is having problems, it is likely a capacitor fault. Here are some signs of bad capacitors:

Note: While some issues may be corrected with a partial repair, this is not recommended as the untouched capacitors will eventually fail.

  • Power issues (Present issue)
  • Excessive transformer hum (Present issue)
  • Excessive inverter hum (Present issue)
  • Troublesome VGA Auto adjust (Present issue)
  • Backlight problems
  • Power problems
  • Video issues (Ex: Unstable image, PC connection issues, unreliable at higher resolutions)
  • Random power issues that may only resolve if the monitor is physically unplugged.

Original capacitor values (Primarily reference only)

NOTE: Most of these values are obsolete. Many will need to be substituted with modern replacements when they fail, so this is primarily included for reference purposes.

  • 25V 1000uF (x2)
  • 10V 1000uF (x1)
  • 25V 220uF (x2)
  • 16V 2200uF (Early power supplies)
  1. Caution: If you are uncertain about holding high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings and use common sense. A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.
    • Caution: If you are uncertain about holding high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings and use common sense. A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.

    • The filter capacitor will hold the most residual charge. Use caution around this capacitor!

    • Unplug the monitor and leave it unplugged for 24-48 hours. Wait 5-7 days if you intend to replace the filter capacitor.

  2. This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, snap it off from the marked points. Remove the stand from the monitor. Remove the 4 screws that hold the stand on. The bottom screws should be removed first, but this can be done in any order.
    • This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, snap it off from the marked points.

    • Remove the stand from the monitor. Remove the 4 screws that hold the stand on. The bottom screws should be removed first, but this can be done in any order.

  3. Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. All of these screws are the same type and length. This screw is unique and only goes in one place as the thread is different. Set it aside separately from the other screws.
    • Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. All of these screws are the same type and length.

    • This screw is unique and only goes in one place as the thread is different. Set it aside separately from the other screws.

    My monitor, an Acer 2216W verion BL from 2007, has no screws other than the monitor stand screws. The back bezel is solidly glued down. No luck removing it so far :(

    Daniel Schwarz - 返信

    The back on this version is held together by snaps along the edge. I was able to get it off by putting a knife in the gap and hammering down onto the knife with a screwdriver handle. However, the circuitboard is completely different.

    Evan Richards -

  4. If the monitor has never been serviced, additional force may be required. Too much will damage the plastics. A flathead screwdriver will damage the plastic.
    • If the monitor has never been serviced, additional force may be required. Too much will damage the plastics.

    • A flathead screwdriver will damage the plastic.

    • On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.

  5. If you are having trouble doing this, a pry tool can help. This is common on unserviced examples.
    • If you are having trouble doing this, a pry tool can help. This is common on unserviced examples.

    • With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the plastics and LCD.

  6. After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.
    • After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.

    • With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector.

  7. If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used.
    • If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used.

    • Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.

  8. Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。

    ショップを見る

    Apple Watch キット

    スクリーンとバッテリー の修理が簡単にできます。

    ショップを見る
  9. Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board. Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.
    • Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.

    Our cables were in different order: from left to right: Blue, Blue, pink, pink

    Christof Dallermassl - 返信

    I suspect that’s either because you’re in a 240V country (I seen you used the pound symbol for the currency you use) or it’s a different part then the US ones. Mine had a 120-240V 00A Delta unit.

    You have a different revision or revised power supply. I used a bd monitor for the guide with the 00A power supply and inverter filter capacitor.

    Nick -

  10. Removal of this board is optional as it is non interfering. Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.
    • Removal of this board is optional as it is non interfering.

    • Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.

  11. Remove the 2 bottom screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor. Remove the 2 bottom screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor.
    • Remove the 2 bottom screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor.

  12. On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place. Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply. Removal of the lower shield is not required but makes the job easier. To remove it, unclip the plastic tabs on the LCD bezel.
    • On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place.

    • Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

    • Removal of the lower shield is not required but makes the job easier. To remove it, unclip the plastic tabs on the LCD bezel.

  13. If you see bulged capacitors, treat the power supply as if the capacitors are holding a residual charge. If the filter capacitor is replaced, it MUST be discharged before removal. In addition, the black screw (Blue marker) is a grounding screw and cannot be lost. Only lift the power supply board at a slight angle. Lifting it any higher may damage the processing board or interface.
    • If you see bulged capacitors, treat the power supply as if the capacitors are holding a residual charge.

    • If the filter capacitor is replaced, it MUST be discharged before removal. In addition, the black screw (Blue marker) is a grounding screw and cannot be lost.

    • Only lift the power supply board at a slight angle. Lifting it any higher may damage the processing board or interface.

    • If you cannot find the original capacitors, the original parts can be safely substituted.

    • This capacitor is only used on older revisions. If your board has this capacitor, it should be replaced if handy.

    • With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Along with the listed capacitors, take note of any others you want to replace (Ex: Inverter coil).

    • Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift up the power supply at a slight angle to clear the chassis mounting holes.

  14. If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, these marks will come off when soldered in place.
    • If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, these marks will come off when soldered in place.

    • If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, mark the polarity with a permanent marker. If the capacitors are installed incorrectly, they will explode when power is applied.

  15. If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. The flux will be more difficult to clean if too much is used.
    • If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. The flux will be more difficult to clean if too much is used.

    • To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, add flux or solder to ease removal.

  16. If you do not have Helping Hands, be careful not to touch your soldering iron. The board can be held at an angle if this is easier. While it may be possible to do a partial replacement, the remaining capacitors will fail. Do it once and change the entire set. Refer to this guide for soldering tips: はんだ付けとはんだ除去の作業ガイド. Move in a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up the leg to remove it from the board.
    • If you do not have Helping Hands, be careful not to touch your soldering iron. The board can be held at an angle if this is easier.

    • While it may be possible to do a partial replacement, the remaining capacitors will fail. Do it once and change the entire set. Refer to this guide for soldering tips: はんだ付けとはんだ除去の作業ガイド.

    • Move in a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up the leg to remove it from the board.

    • After removing the capacitors, clean up the old solder with a desoldering braid Lift it with the iron when removing it.

  17. Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. If they are installed incorrectly, they will explode!
    • Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. If they are installed incorrectly, they will explode!

    • Install the new capacitors. Check the polarity/placement and bend the leads so they do not come loose during installation.

  18. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead. Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.
    • Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.

  19. After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or Denatured alcohol.
    • After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or Denatured alcohol.

  20. Put the monitor back together and test it with a signal. If the repair worked, you will have a visible image.
    • Put the monitor back together and test it with a signal. If the repair worked, you will have a visible image.

    Excellent guide. Really helped in getting the casing apart and pulling things off in the proper order to not damage anything. It turns out nearly every capacitor on mine was blown, so I instead just ordered a replacement board (which was cheaper than buying all new capacitors).

    gtxcrusader - 返信

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

11 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Nick

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I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don't know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B

Thomas Brady - 返信

These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.

It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.

Nick -

In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.

Brennan Gomolka - 返信

Thanks @nick! Just waiting for the parts to come in!

Aiden Baker - 返信

@nick which one is the filter capacitor?

Aiden Baker -

The big one on the AC side.

Nick -

@nick is it OK if I combine the exact replacement capacitors and the “upgraded” on the power supply? or do I only use original or upgraded?

Aiden Baker -

It’s okay to use the matched and upgraded caps at the same time. The ones I upgraded were hard to find since they’re more or less obsolete.

Nick -

Ok thanks! reason why is I got all my replacements scrapping dead Power supplies. so I managed to get some and some others

Aiden Baker -

@nick bridging some of the lines that are covering the board doesn’t matter does it? they dont seem to connect anything.

Aiden Baker -

That’s a way to get extra groundplane with minimal cost. By design, it gets covered in solder during assembly. I wouldn’t leave solder on those.

Nick -

also one more thing. which capacitors do the upgraded ones replace?

Aiden Baker -

@nick so not good if they bridged?

Aiden Baker -

Yeah. It’s a bad idea to bridge it. The places the upgraded caps go are listed in the part descriptions as a note if it was replaced.

Nick -

OK. I didn’t expect to find the monitor I needed to replace on ifixit out of tons of others that are not. thanks for making the guide!

Aiden Baker -

Most of the monitors people usually buy are low end and are rarely worth repairing or the owner is too lazy to bother because of how cheap a good one is today. I only ever see good monitors like Dell Ultrasharps in use by businesses.

On one hand it’s a waste but if I can get it and fix it for relatively little money I’ll try.

Nick -

@nick which one is the inverter capacitor?

Aiden Baker -

The capacitor by the coil. Some revisions don’t have it.

Nick -

the one in step 12?

Aiden Baker -

The one with the red box around it.

Nick -

@nick hasnt turned on. I only see a very dim red light from the power button and pressing it does nothing.

Aiden Baker -

same as before. I did not replace all though. @nick

Aiden Baker -

Thanks! Lets see if I can get this working.

Aiden Baker - 返信

We changed only the three 25V 220uF capacitors (two of them looked broken), and the backlight was working again. Thanks for the description! Spent 0,24€ and around an hour for the fix. As a beginner in soldering:-)

Christof Dallermassl - 返信

If you have any further problems, replace the rest of the caps at the same time. That will sort out the problem if it isn’t caused by another failure.

Nick -

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