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はじめに

按照本指南更换 Microsoft Surface Pro 4 上的屏幕。

在此过程中,你很可能会破坏未加固且易碎的显示面板。 切开粘合剂时,请确保施加足够的热量并格外小心。戴上安全眼镜,以防玻璃破碎。

  1. 如果你的屏幕玻璃破裂,请保持进一步的破损,并在维修过程中用胶带粘住玻璃以防止人身伤害。 将重叠的透明包装胶带条放在 Surface 的屏幕上,直到覆盖整个表面。 这将保持包含玻璃碎片并在撬起和抬起屏幕时提供结构完整性。
    • 如果你的屏幕玻璃破裂,请保持进一步的破损,并在维修过程中用胶带粘住玻璃以防止人身伤害。

    • 将重叠的透明包装胶带条放在 Surface 的屏幕上,直到覆盖整个表面。

    • 这将保持包含玻璃碎片并在撬起和抬起屏幕时提供结构完整性。

    • 尽最大努力按照所述指南的其余部分进行操作。但是,一旦玻璃破碎,它可能会在你工作时继续破裂,你可能需要使用金属撬具将玻璃舀出。

    • 戴上安全眼镜以保护你的眼睛,并注意不要损坏 LCD 显示屏。

  2. 加热 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的右边缘两分钟。
    • 加热 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的右边缘两分钟。

    • 你可能需要重新加热并重新应用 iOpener 几次以使平板电脑足够温暖。遵循 iOpener 说明以避免过热。

    • 你也可以使用吹风机、热风枪或热板来加热 Surface。

    • 注意不要让 Surface 过热——屏幕和内置电池容易受到热损坏。

    • 如果屏幕已贴上胶带,请勿使用热板。

  3. 在继续之前,请注意屏幕粘合剂布局:
    • 在继续之前,请注意屏幕粘合剂布局:

    • 这些区域仅包含粘合剂并且可以安全切割。 显示板和柔性电缆靠近边缘。小心切割,不要将撬片插入超过 1/8 英寸(3 毫米)。

    • 易碎的天线电缆位于屏幕的这一部分下方。

    • 仔细按照步骤 13 中的程序进行操作,以免损坏它们。粘合剂也是这里最厚的。

  4. 将三角撬片插入屏幕右上角的扬声器切口,然后在玻璃和扬声器格栅之间滑动撬片。 不要将三角撬片插入深度超过 0.45 英寸(12 毫米)。将撬片插入太远可能会损坏 LCD。
    • 将三角撬片插入屏幕右上角的扬声器切口,然后在玻璃和扬声器格栅之间滑动撬片。

    • 不要将三角撬片插入深度超过 0.45 英寸(12 毫米)。将撬片插入太远可能会损坏 LCD。

  5. 朝 Surface 底部旋转三角撬片,将其滑到扬声器开口的下边缘下方。 朝 Surface 底部旋转三角撬片,将其滑到扬声器开口的下边缘下方。
    • 朝 Surface 底部旋转三角撬片,将其滑到扬声器开口的下边缘下方。

  6. 将撬片向下滑动到 Surface 的右边缘,以切开屏幕下方的粘合剂。 在整个过程的其余部分,如果你在滑动三角撬片时遇到很大的阻力,请停止并重新加热你正在处理的部分。用三角撬片施加太大的压力会使玻璃破裂。
    • 将撬片向下滑动到 Surface 的右边缘,以切开屏幕下方的粘合剂。

    • 在整个过程的其余部分,如果你在滑动三角撬片时遇到很大的阻力,请停止并重新加热你正在处理的部分。用三角撬片施加太大的压力会使玻璃破裂。

    • 将此三角撬片留在右边缘,以防止粘合剂重新密封。

  7. 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的底部边缘两分钟。
    • 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的底部边缘两分钟。

    • 你也可以使用吹风机、热风枪或热板来加热 Surface。

    • 注意不要让 Surface 过热——屏幕和内置电池容易受到热损坏。

    • 如果屏幕已贴上胶带,请勿使用热板。

  8. 将新的三角撬片插入右下角,然后将其围绕拐角向底部边缘滑动。 请勿将三角撬片插入右下角周围的深度超过 0.25 英寸(6 毫米)。将撬片插入太远可能会损坏 LCD。 沿着 Surface 的底部边缘滑动撬片以切开屏幕粘合剂。
    • 将新的三角撬片插入右下角,然后将其围绕拐角向底部边缘滑动。

    • 请勿将三角撬片插入右下角周围的深度超过 0.25 英寸(6 毫米)。将撬片插入太远可能会损坏 LCD。

    • 沿着 Surface 的底部边缘滑动撬片以切开屏幕粘合剂。

    • 沿底部边缘插入三角撬片的深度不要超过 0.45 英寸(12 毫米)。

    • 将此撬片留在底部边缘以防止粘合剂重新密封。

    Yep. I scratched the corner of the LCD with the pick. Take the warning seriously folks! It’s really easy to do.

    Laurence Mayer - 返信

  9. 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的左边缘两分钟。
    • 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的左边缘两分钟。

    • 你可能需要重新加热并重新应用 iOpener 几次以使平板电脑足够温暖。遵循 iOpener 说明以避免过热。

    • 你也可以使用吹风机、热风枪或热板来加热 Surface。

    • 注意不要让 Surface 过热——屏幕和内置电池容易受到热损坏。

    • 如果屏幕已贴上胶带,请勿使用热板。

  10. 将新的三角撬片插入左下角,然后将其围绕拐角向左边缘滑动。 小心在左边缘下方 2.5 英寸(65 毫米)下切割。不要在此处插入三角撬片超过 1/8 英寸(3 毫米)。显示器电缆位于挡板的这一部分附近,很容易损坏。 穿过显示电缆区域后,你可以再次将撬片插​​入 0.45 英寸(12 毫米)。
    • 将新的三角撬片插入左下角,然后将其围绕拐角向左边缘滑动。

    • 小心在左边缘下方 2.5 英寸(65 毫米)下切割。不要在此处插入三角撬片超过 1/8 英寸(3 毫米)。显示器电缆位于挡板的这一部分附近,很容易损坏。

    • 穿过显示电缆区域后,你可以再次将撬片插​​入 0.45 英寸(12 毫米)。

    • 沿着 Surface 的左边缘滑动撬片以切开屏幕粘合剂。

    • 将此三角撬片留在左边缘以防止粘合剂重新密封。

  11. 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的顶部边缘两分钟。
    • 重新加热你的 iOpener 并将其应用到 Surface 屏幕的顶部边缘两分钟。

    • 沿此边缘的粘合剂最厚,你可能需要重新加热并重新应用 iOpener 几次以使平板电脑足够温暖。遵循 iOpener 说明以避免过热。

    • 你也可以使用吹风机、热风枪或热板来加热 Surface。

    • 注意不要让 Surface 过热——屏幕和内置电池容易受到热损坏。

    • 如果屏幕已贴上胶带,请勿使用热板。

  12. 用三角撬片将左角弄圆,然后沿着 Surface 的顶部边缘滑动。当三角撬片距离左边缘 2.75 英寸(70 毫米)时停止。 外壳顶部边缘接下来的 6 英寸(15 厘米)被左右天线覆盖,天线位于外壳和屏幕边框之间。请仔细执行以下步骤以避免损坏天线。 外壳顶部边缘接下来的 6 英寸(15 厘米)被左右天线覆盖,天线位于外壳和屏幕边框之间。请仔细执行以下步骤以避免损坏天线。
    • 用三角撬片将左角弄圆,然后沿着 Surface 的顶部边缘滑动。当三角撬片距离左边缘 2.75 英寸(70 毫米)时停止。

    • 外壳顶部边缘接下来的 6 英寸(15 厘米)被左右天线覆盖,天线位于外壳和屏幕边框之间。请仔细执行以下步骤以避免损坏天线。

  13. 易碎的天线电缆位于屏幕的顶部边缘下方。仔细遵循程序以避免损坏它们。 在刚刚停止切割的屏幕下方插入拾取点。不要将三角撬片插入比挡板边缘更深的地方。 小心地将三角撬片向右滚动,将撬片的长边压入挡板下方的屏幕粘合剂中,边走边切割粘合剂。不要沿着 Surface 边缘滑动三角撬片。
    • 易碎的天线电缆位于屏幕的顶部边缘下方。仔细遵循程序以避免损坏它们。

    • 在刚刚停止切割的屏幕下方插入拾取点。不要将三角撬片插入比挡板边缘更深的地方。

    • 小心地将三角撬片向右滚动,将撬片的长边压入挡板下方的屏幕粘合剂中,边走边切割粘合剂。不要沿着 Surface 边缘滑动三角撬片。

    • 重复此动作,将三角撬片的尖端插入你刚刚切割的位置,然后沿着 Surface 的顶部边缘向右滚动,直到截齿距离 Surface 的右边缘 2.5 英寸(64 毫米)。

  14. 在天线上切割粘合剂(距左边缘 8.5 英寸或 22 厘米)后,沿表面的顶部边缘滑动三角撬片的其余部分,然后绕右上角切开任何剩余的粘合剂。 在天线上切割粘合剂(距左边缘 8.5 英寸或 22 厘米)后,沿表面的顶部边缘滑动三角撬片的其余部分,然后绕右上角切开任何剩余的粘合剂。 在天线上切割粘合剂(距左边缘 8.5 英寸或 22 厘米)后,沿表面的顶部边缘滑动三角撬片的其余部分,然后绕右上角切开任何剩余的粘合剂。
    • 在天线上切割粘合剂(距左边缘 8.5 英寸或 22 厘米)后,沿表面的顶部边缘滑动三角撬片的其余部分,然后绕右上角切开任何剩余的粘合剂。

  15. 非常缓慢地将屏幕组件从 Surface 外壳上提起。如果遇到任何阻力,请停下来检查所有粘合剂是否已分离。 暂时不要移除屏幕。它仍然通过两条电缆连接到主板。 使用三角撬片切开任何剩余的粘合剂。
    • 非常缓慢地将屏幕组件从 Surface 外壳上提起。如果遇到任何阻力,请停下来检查所有粘合剂是否已分离。

    • 暂时不要移除屏幕。它仍然通过两条电缆连接到主板。

    • 使用三角撬片切开任何剩余的粘合剂。

  16. 将屏幕组件的顶部从机箱中提起,同时将屏幕底部滑动到靠近主板显示接口的位置。 轻轻地将屏幕放在外壳上,接口朝上。注意不要弄皱显示电缆。 轻轻地将屏幕放在外壳上,接口朝上。注意不要弄皱显示电缆。
    • 将屏幕组件的顶部从机箱中提起,同时将屏幕底部滑动到靠近主板显示接口的位置。

    • 轻轻地将屏幕放在外壳上,接口朝上。注意不要弄皱显示电缆。

  17. 使用此方法移除维修期间所需的任何 EMI 屏蔽: 使用一对斜角镊子的一个尖端从“牙齿”之间的间隙中撬起 EMI 屏蔽。 在护罩周边的不同点重复此过程,直到它自由为止。
    • 使用此方法移除维修期间所需的任何 EMI 屏蔽:

    • 使用一对斜角镊子的一个尖端从“牙齿”之间的间隙中撬起 EMI 屏蔽。

    • 在护罩周边的不同点重复此过程,直到它自由为止。

    • 尽量不要使防护罩变形太多——你需要在重新组装时重新安装它们。

    • 要重新安装,请尽你所能纠正任何变形,确保“齿”与主板上的边缘对齐,并按下 EMI 屏蔽的整个周边。

    • 确保所有“齿轮”都紧贴金属边缘,并且没有在 EMI 屏蔽下方弯曲。

  18. 使用镊子移除覆盖显示电缆连接器的两个 EMI 屏蔽。 使用镊子移除覆盖显示电缆连接器的两个 EMI 屏蔽。 使用镊子移除覆盖显示电缆连接器的两个 EMI 屏蔽。
    • 使用镊子移除覆盖显示电缆连接器的两个 EMI 屏蔽。

  19. 用撬棒的扁平端撬起,将每条显示电缆从主板上断开。 用撬棒的扁平端撬起,将每条显示电缆从主板上断开。 用撬棒的扁平端撬起,将每条显示电缆从主板上断开。
    • 用撬棒的扁平端撬起,将每条显示电缆从主板上断开。

  20. 从 Surface 移除屏幕。
    • 从 Surface 移除屏幕。

    • 在重新组装期间,请在此处暂停并按照本指南更换屏幕粘合剂。

  21. 使用撬片撬起覆盖显示板的 EMI 屏蔽的一侧。
    • 使用撬片撬起覆盖显示板的 EMI 屏蔽的一侧。

    • 尽量不要使护罩变形太多——你需要在重新组装时重新安装它。

  22. 将 EMI 屏蔽罩提离显示板并将其取下。
    • 将 EMI 屏蔽罩提离显示板并将其取下。

  23. 使用撬棒扁平的一端将显示器互连电缆垂直向上撬出电路板上的插座。 使用撬棒扁平的一端将显示器互连电缆垂直向上撬出电路板上的插座。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端将显示器互连电缆垂直向上撬出电路板上的插座。

  24. 使用打开工具撬起覆盖第二条显示电缆的 EMI 屏蔽的一端。 尽量不要使屏蔽盖变形太多——你需要在重新组装时重新安装它。 取下 EMI 屏蔽盖。
    • 使用打开工具撬起覆盖第二条显示电缆的 EMI 屏蔽的一端。

    • 尽量不要使屏蔽盖变形太多——你需要在重新组装时重新安装它。

    • 取下 EMI 屏蔽盖。

  25. 使用撬棒的尖端将数字化仪接口直接撬出屏幕上的插座。 使用撬棒的尖端将数字化仪接口直接撬出屏幕上的插座。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端将数字化仪接口直接撬出屏幕上的插座。

  26. 使用撬棒打开显示电缆 ZIF 接口上的小锁片。 使用撬棒打开显示电缆 ZIF 接口上的小锁片。 使用撬棒打开显示电缆 ZIF 接口上的小锁片。
    • 使用撬棒打开显示电缆 ZIF 接口上的小锁片。

  27. 使用镊子将显示电缆直接从显示板上的插座中滑出。 使用镊子将显示电缆直接从显示板上的插座中滑出。 使用镊子将显示电缆直接从显示板上的插座中滑出。
    • 使用镊子将显示电缆直接从显示板上的插座中滑出。

  28. 滑动显示板下方的撬片,以分离将其固定在屏幕背面的粘合剂。 如果粘合剂很顽固,使用 iOpener、吹风机或热风枪加热显示板可能会有所帮助。注意不要让屏幕过热。 如果粘合剂很顽固,使用 iOpener、吹风机或热风枪加热显示板可能会有所帮助。注意不要让屏幕过热。
    • 滑动显示板下方的撬片,以分离将其固定在屏幕背面的粘合剂。

    • 如果粘合剂很顽固,使用 iOpener、吹风机或热风枪加热显示板可能会有所帮助。注意不要让屏幕过热。

  29. 拆下显示板。
    • 拆下显示板。

    • 重新组装时,用异丙醇 (≥90%) 和无绒布或咖啡过滤器去除显示板下方的粘合剂。然后,从预先切好的粘性卡片上涂上新的粘合剂并将其固定到新屏幕上。

  30. 只剩下屏幕了。
    • 只剩下屏幕了。

終わりに

要重新组装你的设备,请按逆序执行上述步骤。

将你的电子垃圾送到 R2 或 e-Stewards 认证的回收商

维修没有按计划进行?尝试一些 基本疑难解答,或向我们的 论坛 寻求帮助。

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Sam Omiotek

メンバー登録日: 2019年02月25日

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52 件のコメント

Thank you for your guide.

I've removed the cracked screen from my Surface Pro 4 and hope to replace it with a new screen I bought on eBay. Unfortunately, the new screen doesn't seem to have the NTrig board attached to it.

Is it possible to remove that little board from the old screen? If so, how?

alex - 返信

I'm also interested on this. as I can't find a screen seller that includes the NTrig board. Did you manage to do it, Alex?

Óscar Espeso Gil -

Yes you can heat up the board and remove it and move it over to the new screen. However my problem is that now I have a vertical dead spot about 2 inches wide from the "J" key to the "L" key up and down the screen. I can't find any damage to the cables or boards... I have replaced the screen twice now and nothing.

Jordan Mershon -

Same problem as the guy above, moved the n-trig board over, touch is unresponsive in certain spots, anyone find a solution to this?

Raul Garcia -

I'll be moving the board over as well, I am told to make sure the cables are completely connected, Check and Re-Check. This seemed to have fixed most problems with the touch being unresponsive in some area's.

jayroca23 -

hi guys, i have the same issue with the touchscreen after replacement. have you find a solution? I checked a couple of times but touch screen doesn't work. Instead if I use the pen, there are some dead spot.

Gabriele Corda -

What adhesive did you use to re-attach the screen?

alex - 返信

Ok, So all fine in theory, but unless you broke your screen, like I did, it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the screen without breaking it. Even with a full I Fix It toolbox and an I opener it took me 90 mins to get the screen off. The central parts come away quite easily but separated from the edges, but the glue tape is so strong it left sharp glass around the edge where the tape is.

This screen is less than 1/10th of a mm thick in places, you've got no chance of getting it off.

Jon Pertwee - 返信

You need to heat it a lot. I used heat gun at 280°C and applied heat to the edges and kept it moving around the edges for 15 min. Then the edge was too hot to touch (around 120-150°C) and then it was easy to remove the screen. Be careful for the top antenna’s mine were stuck to the display instead of the bar below and I needed a new antenna.

Henri -

I i got mine apart by heating the edges, and then applying some painters tape loosly from the back cover to the front of the screen to prevent it fom dropping and then blowing air from my air compressor through the back panel air vents. Screen popped right away from the warm adhesive and the painters tape kept it from breaking any cables or the glass, took about 5 minutes.

Hunter Rench -

On the plusside, at least I can now upgrade the hard disk.. Yay.. 1TB here I come!!

Jon Pertwee - 返信

I am unable to find a replacement glass anywhere? How did you guys find it on ebay?

Shubham Sharma - 返信

Amazon is the only place I have found a screen....

Jordan Mershon -

What adhesive should i use to replace the screen?

Nick Skwarek - 返信

Some of this might do the trick for you gentleman. https://www.amazon.com/NIUTOP-Double-Adh...

jayroca23 -

Tesa 4965, Tesa 61395 or Hi-bond VHB tape.

David Fear -

I seem to have missed the step where you explained what you sacrificed to which god in order to get the screen off in fewer than 500 pieces.

mad_bimmy - 返信

should i save my files to an external drive before replacing the screen?

heyyy jaaaaaayyyyy - 返信

You should always backup your data for any repairs you may do.

Evan Miles -

note that you need to be very careful when prying the top left side of the display off: it's very easy to damage the wifi antenna!

Ned Danieley - 返信

more so in top middle across 6", I replaced mine with aluminum tape and it worked really well

Ken Lebofsky -

Does anyone have a link to buy the actual replacement screen for Surface pro 4. The replacement screen in this video. Thank you in advance

Charles Myles - 返信

At the top of the unit there is some very thin copper ribbon that tore when removing the adhesive, what is it? I need to replace it.

Ken Lebofsky - 返信

It's the wifi/bluetooth antenna. You can not buy this part anywhere. I recreated the antenna using aluminum tape and I think the wifi is better than before!!

Ken Lebofsky -

Anyone have the issue of the screen being offset after reattaching? Anyone know which one of the connectors controls this?

Tess morgan - 返信

I am not quite sure what you mean by offset but what this sounds like is that the N Trig board is not quite in the right position. The N Trig board is the L shaped board that you need to take from the old screen and stick it on the new screen. If you look at the opened tablet, on the bottom left area, as you look at the inside of the tablet, there is an L shaped space. The N Trig board must fit properly into this space or the screen will be skew or even stand proud. There is enough space for the N Trig board but not much space. If possible try lifting the screen again and repositioning the N Trig board. If that is not possible or may cause more damage than its worth you may have to live with the screen being offset. As a good ‘lesson learnt’ for this it is to position the new screen with all the bits connected in place before actually sticking it down so that you can make sure it sits correctly. That said I am not implying that you did not do that. ;o)

Paul Ingarfield -

This guide made it seem roughly 10 times easier to do than it turned out to be. Sunk ~$200 into fixing the screen on a $500 computer, and broke the screen when reinstalling it, and spent easily a couple hours frustratedly picking broken glass off the edges when taking off the old screen. I’m not blaming you for me being bad at computer repair, but maybe consider raising the difficulty?

Mark Blakeley - 返信

Ouch, sorry to hear that. I haven’t worked on the Surface Pro much, but usually the challenge is to avoid breaking the screen when taking it off, as opposed to installing it. I agree with you about the difficulty level and bumped it up accordingly—there is nothing easy about working on a Surface Pro. Better luck on your next repair…

Jeff Suovanen -

All Right: where to buy screen - phoneremedies.com, comes with tools. If, like I did, you tear a ribbon cable, can find replacement at ipartexperts.com

My glass was shattered, so the big center part came out easily, too easily, before I knew it I’d torn a ribbon cable. I’m using a heating pad to warm the adhesive around the edges. This is a long monotonous process. Take extra care in the middle third section at the top. There is delicate antenna in this area. Moving the NTrig board will be the next joy. If anyone is wondering, no this isn’t easy…not for the faint of heart. Prying off the little aluminium cable pin covers is also nerve racking. You will bend them, but they can be bent back.

john brewer - 返信

I think there should be a part for putting it back together, it’s not always as simple as ‘just do it in reverse’ for instance, what is the best adhesive to use and how much should you use? Those parts are not listed either. Maybe a new display bought from Ifixit has adhesive already applied but what if you are using a used display?

Glen D - 返信

This should be entitled ‘Display Removal’ not ‘Display Replacement’. There is literally nothing here addressing the replacement part.

Glen D - 返信

No mention of the antenae???? assembly at the top of the screen, that you can cut right through with a pick (near the camera and N-trig assemblies),

This is a really lame procedure that ends up giving false confidence to people you should just remove it if you can’t put all the important details on here

Glen D - 返信

There are little round gaskets around at least 3 of the sensors/cameras on the sensor array area, and there are 3 antennae glued between the screen and the case on either side of the camera. THIS IS PRETTY IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO LEAVE OUT OF what is essentially a ‘teardown’ instruction posing as ‘replacement’ instructions. I really expected more form this web site, and anyone reading this should peruse youtube and watch MULTIPLE videos because a great deal of those don’t show these things either. The iOpener is for $@$*,you need a heat gun set to just below 200 F and once you get a pick in, heat in front of it, detach it while it’s easy, heat again, etc, and the top edge is much thicker and contains all the sensors. this has a lot of glue almost the whole thickness of the bezel. I haven’t found a way to separate without snagging one of the antennae but on the next try I will use more heat and go even slower. I would love to post a photo showing the exact position but see no way to…

Glen D - 返信

Glen, this is a user-submitted guide. Your comments are fair, but rather than just criticizing, I would suggest using iFixit the way it’s meant to be used—as a wiki—and submit your own improvements to the guide. We generally allow any user to submit a repair guide, even if it’s imperfect, in the hopes that folks will use it and improve on it over time. Looking through the guide I can see some of your complaints are addressed in the comments, so I will go through and copy some of that info over to the steps where it’s a little more visible. Thanks for your feedback.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’m researching reasons my touch screen doesn’t work. I found this site, after I removed the old screen. I wished it was before my attempt, I would have had more insight into the process. But, I think I did okay, considering. The new screen is connected to the cables and I tested it, before the final “glue down”. However, the touch screen does not work and I’ve tried to re-seat the cables from the Ntrig assembly to the new screen many, many times and still, nothing. Is it possible the screen I purchased from an Amazon supplier can be defective? Has anyone had an issue with a defective screen? I’m considering purchasing another screen from a different supplier and try the connections, again, to rule this out. But, If you guys think it’s me and not the screen, I’ll gladly listen to any suggestions. Thanks, in advance, for any comments.

Linda Lewis

linleelew - 返信

I t can be two different things:

1) You have a bad screen

2) You damaged the N-Trig Board or it was damaged when the screen was originally damaged which can happen. Unless you try a combination both both you may not know. It you are doing these Surface Pro 4 repairs in bulk, it is a good idea to keep both those parts in stock.

Abdullah -

after replacing my display the screen would not turn on. i confirmed the surface still worked by pluging in an external monitor. the device would respond to touch but it would not display anything on the new monitor

Joseph Allen - 返信

Awesome repair guide.

Have removed the screen only to find it is not a Pro 4 screen on the Pro 4. A little confused but having done research on the LCD connector it is saying it is the LG screen not the Samsung one! I did not realise there were two different screens for this model until this point.

The removed screen is the same as the Pro 5 (2017) screen. But it came off the Pro 4…….

The LCD connector on the Pro 4 screen is shorter than the connector for the Pro 5 (2017). So a Pro 4 screen can not be connected to this Pro 4.

So my question is this. Can the Pro 5 screen be fitted to this Pro 4 safely ?

JO HILL - 返信

Would a 1796 screen work as replacement for a Microsoft Surface Pro 4 1724? Would that solve the flickering problem?

Bernardo - 返信

i have the same question… did you fix it?

carritoschocones -

So my problem is that the touch doenst work in all parts (right 2cm of screen wont work) and also the pen stopped working. But the display is in ggood shape and it didnt shatter. My question is: IF (which after reading this doesnt seem too likely) i manage to get the display off without breaking it can changing the N-trig board help? Like does it have all the touchscreen/pen components or could it also be a display problem?

Viktor Steinbrecher - 返信

Hi iFixit

I want to ask about surface pro screen part. I have customer surface pro 4 screen flickering and want to replace the LED Screen. Someone said, surface pro 4 screen only last about 1 year before it will start flickering again and he suggested using Surface pro 5 screen, since they are the same.

Is this true? What about camera holes? Are the placed exactly to fit both surface pro 4 and 5?

Cin Lung Chen - 返信

my surface pro4 screen not work after the replacement ..even the old broken one ,stop work and not show any signal…but when i connect my surface to an HomeLED. Through cable ,work perfectly .i change the flat cable also but still not work .

Waseem - 返信

Thank you for the guide, this in combination with the battery replacement was tied for the most finicky, difficult part replacement I’ve ever had to do for a client in the (admittedly short) 1.5 years I’ve been in IT. Well written and quality graphics.

SparkWorx - 返信

If the screen is already broken and you’re not worried about breaking it more is this repair really that hard seems like it’s really similar to an iPad digitizer/lcd replacement which really isn’t that difficult

Brendan Brasseur - 返信

needs help please so im pretty sure i bought the wrong type of screen seeing that the connector at the bottom of the screen doesnt snap in that flex is bit thinner than the connectore at the bottom my problem is i dont know how to tell if i have a v1 and need a v1 or if i have a v2 and need a v2 screen and dont tell me to count the pins cause they small and this is my first time so be gentle

Christian Rogers - 返信

Hi. Is there anyway to know whether my surface has 25 pin 1.0 samsung display or 32 pin 2.0 lg display without opening the surface?

I have Surface Pro 4 i7 Processor, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB SSD model and it’s touch is not working.

Someone please help me to order the right display for my model.

Thanks in anticipation!

Majrul Ansari - 返信

Hi,

I have the LG 32-pin version of the display, and I noticed the flex cable between display and motherboard has 32 pin on the display side and 25 on the motherboard side. I assume the samsung version has 25 pins on each side, does this mean seven of the pins on the LG display is redundant? I don’t know if a diagram for what each pin is for exists, so I can’t verify if this is indeed the case.

Dawith Lim - 返信

Hi. This guide is great and I was able to remove my screen flawlessly. For those who want to know which screen they have:

Go to device manager (Just search Device Manager in the search box)

Under Monitors, right click on the “Surface Display” and go to properties.

Switch to the “Details” tab, and from the drop down menu choose “Hardware IDs”.

For the Samsung display, it should be: “MONITOR\SDC3853”.

I don’t know what is the ID for LG displays, but a quick Search for this device ID shows that it’s Samsung, and the screen from iFixit was fully compatible.

Hope this helps.

Soheil Sadeghi - 返信

The monitor type can be determined by using AIDA64 through the following path: Display Devices —> Monitor. Then you will see the manufacturer, model type, and manufacture date.

显示器类型只可以通过AIDA64来确定。在AIDA64中依次选择:显示设备—>显示器。这样就能看到制造商、型号和制造日期等信息。

天日可人 - 返信

I have a Surface Pro 4 purchased in December 2015. Its screen flickers and shakes when the machine is hot.

2015年12月买的Surface Pro 4。机器一热,屏幕就抖。

I ordered a Surface Pro 4 (1724 v1.0) Screen (Samsung Display) and some tools on iFixit website. I received the package on Jan 10, 2022. The tools worked fine. I have replaced the old screen with the new one following the guide on this page.

我在iFixit网站订购了SP4 (1724 v1.0)的屏幕(三星的屏幕)以及拆机工具。2022年1月1日收到货。拆机工具很好用。照着本页教程,旧屏顺利拆下,新屏成功换上。

However, the next day (Jan 11, 2022), when I was testing my new screen by repeatedly playing videos, the screen started to shake again within less than one hour. The only good news is that my old screen shakes entirely while the new screen only shakes at the lower part (about 1/5 of the screen).

然而,次日(2022年1月11日),当我使用连续播放视频的方法来测试新屏幕时,新屏幕的画面不到一小时就又开始抖起来了。唯一的好消息就是,旧屏幕是整个画面全部抖动,而新屏幕只有画面下方约五分之一的面积抖动。

天日可人 - 返信

How fragile are the two flexes of the screen?

I made a replacement of the battery and now the screen wont work. I can see a subtle backlight when powering on, bit i get no image and no touch response.

The tablet is working fine because i connected it to an external monitor and i found no problems.

Is it possible the flexes were damaged? On visual close inspection they seem fine to me, but i don't know.

Nahuel - 返信

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