Hi @repairaddi48009
You may have to check if the relay is operating on the board, (faulty /burnt out contacts?).
looking at the image you posted one heater wire is very close to it so I think that it would switch the active AC leg through, the Neutral being common to other components etc.
Looking at the specs on the relay it's a hjr 3ff s hf 48V relay DC type so you may be able to operate it using a smaller DC supply (with the AC disconnected) and if so check if its contacts have continuity when it is operated. At the very least if you can't operate it you can check the relay coil for continuity.
Hi @repairaddi48009
The specifications of the relay as shown by the datasheet, state that the coil resistance is 6.4K Ohms for the 48V relay.
Given its resistance I doubt that a 9V battery would operate it, although you may hear it buzz or hum trying to do so. 3 x 9V batteries connected in series connection i.e. 27V may just operate it, given that they would supply 50% of the current required to operate the relay, but then maybe not either.
Looking at the Form C, 5 pin configuration diagram, shown in the datasheet, the coil is connected between the two outer pins in the group of three pins i.e. pins 2 and 5 and I assume that the AC power connects between pins 1 and 3 when the relay is operated.
To help identify which pin is which, the wire near the relay going to the heater as seen in the image you posted should be connected to either pin1 (middle pin of group of 3 pins) or pin 3 (one of the two outer pins).
If the coil is OK i.e. resistance is ~6.4K Ohms then you will have to prove that there's continuity through the relay contacts with the relay operated. If not then they're burnt out or there's another problem with the relay e.g. relay armature off its knife edge or faulty/broken lever spring contact lifter. In either case the relay will need to be replaced.
If the relay contacts are OK i.e. there's continuity through them with the relay operated, then the relay's operate circuit will have to be traced and then drawn down as a schematic, using point to point testing with an Ohmmeter to find out why it isn't operating and what components are used in the path to operate it (is there a thermostat?) etc. Bit difficult maybe but check for DC voltage on the coil operate pin and check if it is there when required. Be careful as there will also be (or should be) AC voltage on the relay contacts as well
It would be a whole lot easier with a service manual for the cooker showing a schematic of the board itself but I can't find it online which is not surprising given that a lot of manufacturers either don't supply spare parts as they don't want to repair it, or don't want others to repair it by providing such information as it isn't in their business model to do so. They'd rather just sell new ones, Sorry about the rant ;-)
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Hi @repairaddi48009,
When directly testing fuses with an Ohmmeter, a reading of 0.00 Ohms i.e. short circuit indicates that the fuse is OK.
Any reading higher than this or even OL i.e. open circuit indicates it is faulty.
Here's how to add images to your question. iFixitでの質問に画像を追加する方法
What is the model number of the cooker?
jayeff さんによる
Hi Jayeff, my apologies for the brain fart. Thank you for the correction, I know that well but mis-wrote in my post. I edited the title and part of the text to reflect that.
Yes the fuses are good. The resistance across the heater element coil when disconnected from the circuit board it about 13 ohms.
Also when turned on there is no detectable voltage (a/c or dc) across the heater element connector terminals on the circuit board itself (again with the heater element disconnected). I would suspect there would be some voltage enough to power the element?
The model number of the cooker is: SERIE O01 (looks like the letter O then the number zero followed by a 1)
Also thank you for how to add images.
RepairAddict さんによる