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Guides for popcorn machine and popcorn popper repair.

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Popcorn machein trips mains

OK

So start from beginning I decided to deep clean my kettle full of grease oil etc from many uses so I removed the kettle from my machein and removed the black inner pot from the outer silver metal pot and disconnected the red and blue wire from the inner pot I then cleaned the inner pot and wiped down the outer pot with a damp cloth and let them dry next to a radiator for a few hrs they where both very dry and hot when I put the pots back togeather and connect the wires it trips the breakers in my house and I have to go to the meter and flip it back on

If I keep the two pots apart then everything works fine it heats up etc fine

Soon as I put them back togeather it trips the breakers I have tried electrical tape on all the joints and on top of the unit inside the outer pot to make sure nothing is touching

Now I do have a multimeter and I put each end on the connections on the inner pot and it gives me a reading on the OL setting this is the only test I have done has I have never used a multimeter and no idea what setting to have it on or what to test

I have included more pictures too

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Ps if I keep the pots apart it works fine

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Demonloadz what does the bottom end look like? The end where the wire comes into the bowl. What exactly do you mean by "shortening electrics"? What happens? I would start by applying a strip of electrical tape between the contacts of the heating coil and the bowl. I would also apply strips over the two shoes where the electrical cable connects too. And one more over the contacts on the switch/thermostat inside the bowl. What is really interesting is that there are absolutely, no burn marks anywhere. It could of course be as @dadibroke it suggests. If you leave it just as is in the picture and you connect an ohmmeter between the blue wire and the bigger bowl, does it show continuity? Do you have continuity between the Blue and the Red cable? Continuity between the Blue and the White cable as well as continuity between Blue and the blue and Red and the bowl.

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@oldturkey03 I hesitated to suggest electrical tape due to the heat involved; regular tape probably isn't going to be suitable so I imagine you'd have to use some sort of high temperature version.

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@dadibrokeit Yes, me too but I want to use it as a troubleshooting aid. It would not be a permanent solution but it’ll help to see if we can narrow things down.

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If you have a multimeter, check for continuity between the heating element contacts and the pot itself; you should see an open circuit. If there's a short there, then you're probably creating a big short circuit to ground when you join the pots back together. In the case there is a short, you'll probably have to replace that interior bowl with the heating element unless one end is bent down and touching or something like that.

Outside of that, I guess you just have to make sure those contacts aren't touching something else when it's reassembled; it looks like you need to make sure the two holes in the top pan line up with the two holes in the bottom pan.

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I have a multireader at work and will run some more tests today

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you have a multimeter, check for continuity between the heating element contacts and the pot itself;

i have a multimeter how do i do this i have nevr used one does it have to be powerd on etc do i put 1 lead on the element ond one on the pot ?

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Okay, the new pictures help.

We've got the yellow wire to the power plug ground pin, and from there going inside to the bottom of the thermal regulator, which is connected to the metal of the pot. That all looks good to me.

The blue wire goes to one side of the AC input directly to the heating coil, that looks good too.

White wire from the other side of the AC plug to the thermostat, then changes to red coming out of the thermostat and going to the coil.

So normal operation appears to be that AC power is applied, should be a complete circuit through the heating coil. Once heat has built up to a specific point, thermostat opens, cooling it off until it drops below threshold, then turns back on to maintain a specific temperature range.

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@Demonloadz d, in the picture you provided, the setting is correct for continuity testing, which is all we need at this point (the sound/diode position).

With the inner pot disconnected, you should get a beep between the points where the two wires plug in as shown in the 10th picture. Now move one of the probes to touch the metal of the pot itself; shouldn't get a beep. Put that one back and touch the other probe to the pot, no beep should be there either.

Connect everything up without the pot in place the way it is when you say it's working. Put the probes on the two side pins of the power plug, you should get a beep. Move one of the probes to the center pin, should be no beep. Put that one back and touch the other probe to the center pin, shouldn't be a beep there either.

Now put the pot back together and do that all again and let us know what you find.

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Hi @Demonloadz d

I may be wrong but looking at the images you posted you have marked the red (R) and blue (B) wire connections on the heater element on the left but to me the red wire seems to be connected with the yellow wire on the right. Is this how it is? If so maybe that's why you're blowing fuses

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Hi Jayeff yes that is how it is the yellow wire is attached at the bottom touching the outer pot then 2 nuts then the thermostat with the red and white wires attached it's just moved a little and looks like on same side

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I will upload more better pics when I get home later and details

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@Demonloadz d

OK.

So where is the red wire that connects to the heater element?

Is it the other end of the red wire that connects to the thermostat, because in the image it looks like the red wire goes into the white sheath, but it is obscured by the blue wire spade terminal connector?

Is the clear braided wire connected to the thermostat or is it just loosely resting there?

Does it go to back onto the heater terminal "R" when it is reassembled? Very strange if it does given the R and B marking near the heater terminals

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and yes the red wire attaches at the theremostat and then the pot other end of red wire just not in picture

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@Demonloadz d

Did you measure between the heater element and the body in case there is a short circuit between them?

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Demonloadz d さん、ありがとうございました!
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