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Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

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Top two evaporator coils don't ice up but the lower ones do

I have a GE GSH 25 KGPA side by side freezer. It started acting up (refrigerator getting warm) a couple of weeks ago. On investigation, I discovered the thermostat was bad and replaced it with a new one (different model number than the original as the original is no longer manufactured but the GE site indicated the one I ordered is compatible). I kept the freezer wall panel off to make sure I could keep an eye on the evaporator coils....they are freezing up again EXCEPT for the top two which aren't. Does anyone have any experience with this and can you advise me as to what to do next? Thank you!!!

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Hi,

What is the full model number of the refrigerator?

There are 3 different models starting with the number you posted but maybe some parts are different.

Check if the defrost heater is OK. (supplier example only)

Disconnect the power to the refrigerator and locate the heater (usually under the evap coils) and then disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and use an Ohmmeter to measure its resistance value.

It should be between 1-50 Ohms. If it tests OL or open circuit (infinite resistance) it is faulty.

If it tests OK then it may be a problem with defrost thermostat (this is not the thermostat that controls the temperature, it controls the defrost heater circuit - here's how to test a bi-metal thermostat that may help) or perhaps the power supply to the heater.

I cannot find the tech sheet (GE PUB 31-51447-1)  for the model series but sometimes GE placed the sheet in a plastic sleeve behind the kick plate (toe plate?) at the bottom of the cabinet. Worth a look anyway, if it comes down to a wiring problem

Also if you find that it is a faulty part, use the supplier I linked to find the manufacturer's part number (not the supplier's part number) and search online using that number to find suppliers that suit you best.

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I just left off the final BB from the model number the BB indicates that it's black. I did replace the thermostat as a visual inspection showed it was bad. However I was not able to find a thermostat that match the original model number for the thermostat which is t o d 3 7 TV 3 1 3 1 2 5 0 4 6 7 3 2 6 p055. Going online I ordered a wr50x 10068 from the GE site I thought would be compatible but I did notice that the vendor did not mention my GE model of refrigerator on his list of refrigerators that it is compatible with. So I don't know if the problem may be that the thermostat isn't compatible for all that ge's web page indicated that it should be

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Hi @ carolyn

You may have to test the heater and also check if the thermostat is working as per the link.

If the original defrost thermostat was obviously faulty this may have impacted on the heater and it's faulty as well

Most bi metal defrost thermostats are very similar in their specs so it may be OK. Also the link I posted was for the one in your model series and it has the same part number that you ordered and installed.

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Thanks Jeff/. I'll check the heater tonight. It seems strange that the heater is below the coils and yet it is the top two coils that aren't icing up but the others are (prior to changing out the thermostat, all the coils were iced and the back panel had iced too so it obviously had been going on for awhile).

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sorry about the typo Jay!!! (not Jeff!)

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@ carolyn

You may have to let all the ice defrost naturally first i.e. turn off the power and leave the door open. Don't use a hot hair dryer to speed it up as that may damage the evap unit -it's only thin aluminium and is designed to work at below freezing temps. Use a hair dryer on its coolest setting and then only occasionally

To me it seems too much ice for even a defrost heater to remove in the one defrost cycle and it will only build up again between defrost cycles. The defrost cycle occurs once every ~10 hours so there really isn't that much ice covering the evap unit that needs to be melted, unless it is very humid, the ambient temp is high and the doors are being opened a lot. If you check the size and depth of the evap pan under the refrigerator it should never overflow with meltwater and any water in it should mostly evaporate between defrost cycles.

Also make sure that the drain tube from under the evap unit to the evap pan under the compartments near the compressor isn't blocked, preventing the defrost meltwater from draining away.

More ice at the bottom is not unusual. Hot air rises and cold air "falls". It's colder at the bottom than the top. Only marginally and probably not perceptible to us but the ice shows it.

It could also indicate a blockage but then you would have cooling problems either in the freezer or the refrigerator

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carolyn さん、ありがとうございました!
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