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Repair and information guide for the GE Refrigerator GNE26GMD model - a bottom freezer style refrigerator with both drawer and door access, introduced in 2013. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GNE26GMD****.

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Refridgerator Temperature Erratic and Lower Food Freezes

I have a GE GNE26GMDFES fridge/freezer that has erratic temps in the refrigerator section. The freezer is fine.
The temp is set to 37 degrees. But, it will randomly go up as high as 45 degrees and then at some point come back down.
I am also getting food frozen in the 2 bottom drawers.
I have several suspects but need some help to narrow it down.
I already had a service guy come look at it, He said that he would have to see if he could get parts, and then said he couldn’t get them and disappeared!
I can get the suspect parts, but I just don’t want to spend money that I don’t need to spend.

Tom

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Hi @agile4 ,

Are you sure that the temp rises in the refrigerator compartment are “erratic”?

Just wondering when this happens if the refrigerator is in an auto defrost mode as this can cause the temps to rise in the compartments. Not sure with your model as it has 2 evap units but the parts diagrams show that there are two defrost thermostats, one for each evap unit, so it may be that the refrigerator compartment does have a defrost cycle. Usually with most it only occurs once every 8-10 hours though and lasts for about 20 minutes.

Here’s the 31 51872 GE Mini Manual for the refrigerator.

Run the diagnostics as described in the manual and check if it shows any error codes for the FF thermistors. (FF = refrigerator, FZ = freezer)

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Thanks. I'll check it out.

It does have separate defrost heaters and thermostats.

The temp will stay at 37 for a few hours and then creep up to 41, then up to maybe 45 or somewhere in between.

My thoughts are

1) fan is intermittent and the cold air just sinks and that freezes the food in bottom drawers but the temp probe at the top sees higher temps as there is no circulation. OR

2) the Defrost Thermostat is flakey. OR

3) something else that I'm not experienced enough to figure out.

At this point I am about ready to buy all 3-4 items and shotgun it, LOL.

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Hi Jayeff. I got a chance to look at the document. Look great except it's not for my model. I don't have a door ice dispenser so not sure how to access the service mode

Do you have a document for a GNE26GMDFES? My freezer and icemaker are in the bottom drawer and the fridge has french doors.

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@agile4

I was just using the mini manual part number according to this supplier

Click on the PS part number for the manual to view the manufacturer's part number.

This supplier also states the same part number. (search for "manual" in the Search by keywords search box on the page

Both show the same part number that matches the part number on the bottom right of the 1st page in the manual that I provided.

I've checked with a few other suppliers online and they all state the same part number as above.

If you haven't already done so, check at the back of the refrigerator in where the compressor is or even underneath the refrigerator as I've read that GE places the service manual there in a plastic sleeve.

Usually I would say to check behind the kick plate (toe plate) as that's where they are normally located but it looks like your model doesn't have a kick plate.

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On my GFE26GMKHES fridge, the mini manual is under the hinge cover on top of the fridge. You need to take off some screws to get to it. On mine I had to remove both the left and right hinge covers and then remove the center cover where I found the manual. Best to unplug the fridge first as there are lots of wires under the covers. Did you ever get your problem fixed? I'm having a similar problem: food on the bottom of the fridge freezes.

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The fridge gets its cold from the freezer via a port at the top connecting the freezer to the fridge.

I would suspect the door seal. That would cause cold air to drop which might make that area colder than the top.

The leak might be at the top or bottom. It may also be that the seal is fine, but there is something holding the door slightly open. Most seals are easy to remove/replace. You may have to remove the seal to determine what might be holding the door open.

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Thanks. However, this model has separate evaps for the fridge and freezer. It’s not the moving flap type.

The door seal is snug all of the way around

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Yeah, that's what I thought about my sisters unit till I removed the seal and found it was hitting a lower basket. That held the door so slightly open I could not tell.

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Hi Tom— I have a GE Monogram that is misbehaving, too. The frig will go up to 41, and then back down to 37.

The freezer

is more erratic, dropping to -18 and then heading up to -6, but never correcting to 0. The tech came and replaced our seal in the freezer. Over $300 later, it hasn’t changed a bit.

Now the same tech, after scratching his head has said “ Why don’t you turn it off for three days, and see if you can buy some time by resetting the whole frig/freezer? Well, okay. That is where we are at the moment. The saga continues…..

We shall see….

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Hi @katiemcdevi9962,

What is the full model number of the refrigerator?

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Hi Katie,

I have a GE Profile fridge GFE26GMKHES. Early in 2023 food was freezing in the bottom drawer of the Fresh Food (FF) compartment. Your problem is in the FreeZer (FZ) compartment, so not the same as mine, but maybe the following will give you some more ideas.

The short version of the story is that I replaced the main board which fixed the problem. I decided on that course of action after much head scratching and experimenting. One morning I noticed that a fan or motor was running constantly, which seemed odd given that the fridge had been closed all night. It took some time and careful listening to distinguish among the various noises, but I finally concluded it was the compressor motor. As far as I could tell, the thermistors were not the problem, so I decided that the fault must be in the relay on the main board that controls the compressor. I never tested the relay to prove that's what was wrong, but the problem did go away when I replaced the main board,

One more thing regarding how to measure the temperatures in the FF and FZ compartments: I used a couple wireless recording thermometers. See the Amazon link below for the ones I used. They are pretty cheap and they work without opening the fridge. They provide a log of temperature over time as well as a comparison to the self-reported temperatures you get from the fridge itself. Here's the link: Govee Bluetooth Thermometer 2-Pack.

Good luck.

Tom Sandberg

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There are also a lot of these items here at a much cheaper price if you are willing to a couple weeks for it to arrive.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-w...

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Tom Gregory さん、ありがとうございました!
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