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Refrigarator board repair and check for short cirquit

Hello

Whirlpool ARC 8120 refrigerator-freezer.

Every few seconds, a "beep" sounded with the lights on and off at the same time, with a failed attempt to start the compressor (accompanied by a "click")

What did I do ? I changed the permanent capacitor (5μf, 400Volt).

Result: The compressor was starting, but the "beep" -opening of the bulbs continued its presence.

Action: I changed the three electrolytic capacitors of the board - 1000μf 16V, 470μf 35V, 10μf 50V.

Result: Nothing.

Next action: I located the source of the "click", ie one of the two releys, which after being checked and found to be defective, I changed it, but without any result.

Then I started and started changing smd. First a 10kΩ resistor, and then 8 capacitors.

Somewhere here ended my attempt to repair the board because as the tools I have are a soldering iron with a not very thin nose, a magnifying glass worn on the head, tin, solder, desolder, in my attempt at three of the smd capacitors (size 1 to 2 mm) detached (destroyed) the one base (of the board) on which it rested on the board. In one of them I found a path that connects it to a point where I can stick it with an extension. In the other I do not know where it was connected before its base was destroyed, and in the third the same as the first. The base was also damaged by an smd resistor located just after the first two capacitors (without knowing where they were connected).

What am I thinking of doing?

Since I do not know any way to repair the board anymore (if anyone knows, glad to hear), I decided to buy a new one, at a cost of € 150.

I'm afraid there is a short circuit in the refrigerator and if I connect the new board it will be damaged.

The technician I asked to come and check the refrigerator for a short circuit, asks for 40 €, which I do not have.

Is there a relatively easy way to check the refrigerator for a short circuit?

I am sending a photo with the damaged (from the repair attempt) parts of the board, and the back of the refrigerator.

At the back of the refrigerator with a multimeter and at the indication for "continuity" I checked the socket on both poles without hearing a "beep". The socket ends up in the white box with the yellow label. This and the other white box, fasten on the board.

Also, with the multimeter, I checked the other white box (its two sockets), but here it sounds "beep" from the continuity of the multimeter. This box ends in the compressor sockets.

Thanks for any hint.

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Ok not going to lie i got a little lost at the end there. You're worried if you plug in a new board and there's a short it'll fry the new board, right?ok. Since you seem to be pretty handy, this is what I would do. You replaced the start cap on the compressor, right? There might be a start relay there as well. If there is I recommend replacing that as well. We always replace both at the same time to prevent future problems (refrigeration techs I know, as well as myself). Next, with everything unplugged and the start cap discharged, disconnect everything from the compressor. Check for continuity across the windings. Check that there's no continuity to ground. If there's a condenser fan motor check it as well. You're going to have to go through component by component to make sure they're right. If you have things unplugged, go to the other end and check for continuity in the wires going to it. Are they shorted together? If not, move to the next. If there's a wiring diagram somewhere on the unit that makes life easier. Then you know exactly what goes where. Everything off the board should be easy to check. Its the boards that can be a pain. So just be patient. Check everything, and if everything checks out there could be a failure on the board which was causing problems. Check evap fan motors too!! Make sure they spin freely and easily. If you spin the fan by hand and it seems kinda stiff, grinds or makes other noises, or stops really fast, then will most likely need replaced. Does this model have any thermistor that can go bad and need replaced? Can also cause alarms to go off.

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If readings on your board differed from ones on the new board then definitely sounds like a bad board. If you're going to have someone come out then they will check each component and tell you what they find. If they find nothing they'll probably sticl the new board in and it'll work just fine. I'll be honest I'm not the greatest at board work. I troubleshoot components and if everything checks out and something is going wrong with the board I replace it. If I try and fix one myself it voids any and all warranties on the equipment as it is no longer factory. Let me know what they find.

さんによる

@brandon_k

I, also think that he (the technician) will stick the board on the device, and the refrigerator will work fine, and i can also can do it, avoiding the 40$, but...

There is a change (maybe 5 %), that there is something on the refrigerator that will damage (again) the board, and as i said, it costs (the board) 140$. The probability is very small (5%), but the cost is very high. So i decide to "bet" 40$ to ensure 140$. Of course there will be the scenario that he will not be able to detect the root of the problem [if there is one (hidden and difficult to find) on the refrigerator] and the board will get bad again, but in this case i will have, at least somebody (who i had paid) to give me an advice.

I have an appointment at 12 here (i think there is 6 am).

I will communicate again to tell you what happened.

さんによる

I cancel the appointment.

May be is a good idea, by my own, to place the new board. This way i will avoid 40$. Then if the board will burn :

1)Calling the tech, and will be easier for him to trace the wrong part.

2) Take the board for repair, and i think will cost 65$.

So is it a good idea try avoid 30$ with a change to loose 40$+65$=105$. (40$ i will pay anyway if he will come) ?

I wish, having your experience. Your advises in your previous answer, sounds to me a little complicated and good for someone who have more experience than me.

I am thinking to reopen the back inside wall to uncover the thermistor. I read that if i put it in a ice water bottle,the multimeter must saw 16,5 KΩμ.

What is your opinion, about these thoughts of mine, before i will have new appointment with the technician ?

The first time, open the box (which include the board) to see what happen, there was a little portion which have something like smudge, and i am thinking that if it was happened once, it will happen again.

さんによる

Check the thermistor, check your motors and compressor. Just do a continuity check across the windings, and from the windings to ground (e.g. both wires on a fan motor, then one wire to ground) if those all check out correctly (continuity across windings. OL to ground) then I say plug the board in n fire it up. If you don't have to pay $40 then don't. But make sure you check the motors and compressor first. Its real easy. Disconnect the wires from motor/compressor, and check across them and to ground. If they're good, plug them back in. There should be 3 for the compressor. Run, Start, and Common. Check Run to Common, note the number. Start to common, again note the number. Then go run to start. That number should be somewhat close to the first 2 combined. Not exact, just ballpark close. Then check to ground.

さんによる

Your second attemp to guide me, was succesful. Was sound to me more clarifing, so i checked the windings, each other for resistance, and each of them for short with ground.

Results were these: 1) No short to ground. 2) Resistance between Com and Start = 25.3Ωμ, Resistance between Com and Run = 17.8Ωμ, Resistance between Run and Start = 42.8Ωμ. I think that they are like they should be.

At first, i did not check the Thermistor, so after the windings mesurement, i plug in the new board, and the compressor started to work normally, without hearing the error beep noise along with the on-off of lamps. The only new and starnge thing, was that only the freezer (down part- down door of the refrigarator) was getting to the right temperature. The normal part of the refrigarator (up part- up door) did not get to the right temperature, did not get, even one deegre lower than the temperature of the room.

(Continue in next comment)

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Note : The below answer is previous in time comparing with the above comments, and placed here by mistake

brandon k

thank you very much for your detailed answer. I have bought a new board. From this new board i saw the connections and tried to wired the capacitors and the resistor that their base were destroyed. It was very difficult but i did it(???). (instead of a 120 Ωμ resistor i used a 125Ωμ because i did not find the 120). I attached a picture.

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Then i put it on the device and it works (i mean did not burn or explosion) but the problem (bib noise and lumps on-off) persist.

Then i was trying to compare the old board with the new, and i saw that in the old board there was some connections that have a continuity that should not have as should not exist in the new one. I check every component on board and i found that some resistors (with wires) had different values (on multimeter reading) that the matching on the new board. Then i desolder these resistors to check its value, but they were ok.

The board have 2 relays (17 Ahmps). One i have replaced previously. I thought that the other may have stuck, and i hit it with the screw. Then i put the board again in the device, insert the plug on the wall, and tsaffff.. Light and smoke from the board.

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Before i desolder and resolder the resistors : no explosion. After : explosion. I did something but i do not know what. May be it is this liquid i put on board for the soldering, i mean the flux. I did not clean it well. Does it make continuity ? (I mean, if it's a conductor of the current).

After all these, i decide to call the technician to see if there is a problem on the device (before plug the new board). It will charge me 40$, but what can i do ? I am very tired after all these, because i am not a technician (only a hobbyist).

As for the thermistor. Yes the refrigerator has a thermistor. I saw it when i had unscrew the back (inside), to see the fun. But i am exhausted. I cannot do any further research or experiment. I give up.

The technician told me that, the only way to see if the refrigerator has a short is to have the bad board (to trace the damage). but i did not tell him that i have it. I told that it is in the trash.

So it will come check some components on the device (probably, all that you have suggested to me , plug the board, but it is not for sure that the board will not be damaged. (and it cost to me 140 $).

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krakadoros さん、ありがとうございました!
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