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Repair and information page for the Kenmore Refrigerator 795.7941*, a free-standing, automatic-defrost refrigerator released in 2014 without an ice maker or door dispenser. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern 795.7941*.

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Kenmore 795.7940 freezer frosting over - bad fan? pcb?

I have a Kenmore 795.7940 refrigerator and the vents to the fridge keep freezer over. The coils in the back of the freezer are not frosted over so it seems like the defroster is working? There is a panel of five lights in the fridge (to set temp) that are also used as error codes. The last three lights are lit when the first two are out which indicates “Failure of Fan Motor at Freezer Compartment”. I took the fan out and tested it with a 9V and it runs just fine. I pressed the test button on the PCB and the fan starts up (although it did ref down a couple times one of the times I did it which seems a bit weird). When I unplug the fridge and plug it back in, the fan starts and seems to operate as normal for a few weeks. Then it seems like the fan no longer works after some time. Fan is not frosted over - it can freely spin.

I’m wondering if there is a definitive way to test the fan to see if it’s the root of the problem or if it’s the PCB behind the fridge. I have a multimeter but I’m not sure where to check. I don’t want to have to throw this thing away - seems like a problem that can be fixed. I hope someone can help.

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Hi,

Maybe check if there is voltage being applied to the fan at the fan’s harness plug connector when the fan has stopped operating when it should be operating but the compressor is still running.

Looking at an image of the fan by searching for the fan manufacturer’s part number found on a parts supplier webpage it is a 13V fan (verify by specs on fan itself) and seems to have 3 wires indicating maybe some sort of speed control (hall effect sensor?). Perhaps 13V is the maximum applied for highest speed.

To test you would need to manually operate the door switch, to fool the control board that the door is shut and to keep the fan on, as the fan will be stopped when a door (either door) is open.

If there is no voltage when there should be then you may have to disconnect the power to the refrigerator and test all the fan wires for continuity from the fan harness plug back to the control board.

I can’t find a wiring diagram for the refrigerator but with other fridges it is directly wired but they may pass through other harness connectors to get there, so it may be a faulty through connection in a harness connector perhaps. You could always try to locate the wires at the control board and check for the voltage there as well. (check for same colours- although this is no guarantee)

Sometimes there is a tech sheet in a plastic sleeve taped behind the kick plate that may have the wiring diagram. If they all test OK (gently pull the wires near any harness connectors just in case the wire is not crimped properly by the connector plug or socket pin and then test again) then it most probably is on the control board.

If there is steady voltage but no fan operating, then it may be a faulty fan (intermittent connection?). You may have to replace the fan to verify where it is.

Just what I’d try.

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First off, thanks so much for your reply. I checked for continuity of all 3 fan wires and they are sound. I replaced both the PCB and the fan and the error code immediately showed when I plugged the fridge back in. The error code on the MICOM ERROR DIAGNOSIS TABLE for models 795.7940 shows "Failure of Fan Motor at freezer Compartment". I ran the TEST mode by pushing the TEST button on the PCB and compressor, freezer fan, and compressor fan all run normal. The defroster heater also works. I'm not really sure where else to test but I'm hopeful you have another suggestion...

Thanks again for taking time to try and help me out.

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@Brian Thomas

Without a wiring diagram it is hard to work out what is happening.

One thought I have is that when testing the individual components in test mode it may be bypassing what other components may be inputting to the pcb whereas in normal mode it doesn't, if you get what I'm saying.

I don't know if this is the case in reality or not ;-)

Can you test if the defrost sensor is working OK? (part #401 - case parts) With a lot of models the fan won't start until the defrost sensor indicates that the temp is too high signalling the end the defrost cycle but then again the compressor won't start either. This is in normal mode that is.

Do you have the tech sheet then?

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Brian Thomas さん、ありがとうございました！
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