iPad Air 2 boot loops charging battery from 0% + LCD & adhesive issue
My iPad Air 2 battery got weak, and my volume down button stopped working.
So I bought:
- New battery $19.50
- New volume-microphone flex cable $4.00
- Pre cut adhesive strips $4.50
Installed everything with utmost care. Unfortunately I forgot to reinstall the plate that secures the cables connecting the LCD to the iPad. So I reopened the iPad, this time foolishly a tad less careful, so I ended up breaking my LCD screen.
I was devastated.
Had no choice, so ordered and installed a new one for $118.00.
Now I have the following issues:
The iPad works, but every time the battery drains to zero and I charge it, it boot loops 3 - 4 times before staying turned off for a few minutes. Then boots and charges normally while staying on. But now I have this suspicion that the fully charged battery kinda drains faster than it should. It still lasts a fair bit, but I feel not as long as it should.
And in Settings > Battery, I get no battery info even after using the iPad for a few hours. It just says “Battery information will be available after using the iPad for a few minutes”
Are these sign of a bad/cheap or even damaged replacement battery?
The new LCD screen displays waves along the left edge when holding the iPad on its left bezel in portrait mode.
On that left bezel the LCD also has a thin line of being a tiny bit dimmer.
Also I’m not sure about this, but I have a slight suspicion that this new LCD has slightly less color saturation, slightly weaker black levels, and kinda worse viewing angles with more blueshift than I think I remember.
Are those commonly known signs of a potentially not as good as original, cheap LCD screen? Or does it sound like a damaged screen?
I have difficulties with the new LCD staying in the chassis.
I tried the seemingly quality pre cut adhesive strips, but the LCD simply keeps slowly coming off. I then diligently cut fitting strips myself from generic double sided tape we have at home. Which seems to hold in the screen a bit better, but still, the LCD keeps slowly coming off. So I currently constantly keep pressing the edges of my LCD back in to the chassis.
Are there specific pro-tips on how to make sure the LCD stays in the chassis? Or is it not normal for the front to slightly keep pushing out, maybe a sign of the new battery being slightly too thick? I’d really appreciate some experts advice.
Thanks in advance
Ok after analyzing the new screen some more I can definitely confirm that this new one has noticeably worse viewing angles and color saturation.
I figured because I have my old broken LCD still around I can simply reconnect it and quickly compare image quality.
This is my old screen:
This is my new screen:
Things like this are difficult to capture in pictures, but you can clearly see the new one is washed out in comparison.
Check the battery health first - download 3utools or coconutbattery and connect your iPad to the computer.
Thanks for the fast response. I’ll go ahead and do that and report back after.
I have 2 more issues I wanted to post here but it wouldn’t let me post my whole text. Maybe too long, I’ll try again later.
Ok I used coconut battery and just like the app I use on my iPad “Battery Life” it shows that the capacity is at 100% with only 2 cycles so far.
I added screenshots to my post
@ray_j_king I don't see any anomalies from those screenshots. That said, a low-quality battery can sometimes give normal readings when using the aforementioned software to test, I suspect either you got a bad battery or the charger is not working properly.
Someone reported a similar charging/battery issue on this forum (boot loop), @refectio posted a detailed guideline on how to troubeshoot.
Thank you for your response. I see, it maybe it is a bad battery. The charger is working correctly as it's a new lightning cable. I'll look up and check the @refetio guide, maybe that will help.