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2013年9月10日に発表されたApple iPhone 5sの修理情報とガイドです。モデル A1533、A1453、A1457、A1528、A1530、A1518。

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Replacement Battery not charging, suspecting possible short

Sorry long read, but it pertains to trying to find a possible short of my iphone preventing the battery from charging.

I own a iPhone 5S and discovered an interesting situation. I purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 5S from another supplier, attempted to use it and the battery would not charge and simply drain to zero. The display would say the battery was charging and give the positive audio ding to indicate that the phone recognized the charging cable was plugged and charging. However, the battery would not charge despite the indications on the phone that says it was charging. Putting my original battery in (which is actually a replacement battery which lasted 1.5 years), the battery would charge without issue, although dies at 40% which was why I was replacing it to begin with. I’ve ruled out this being an adapter or cable issue.

Thinking I got a defective battery from the other supplier, I bought a replacement battery from iFixit. Installed the battery and the exact same thing happened as per above. The phone would say the battery was charging, however, it would simply drain.

Reading on iFixit’s Q&A section, I read others who were experiencing the above issue and it being possible short with the retaining bracket that holds down the battery connector when the iPhone is fully closed shut. I opened the phone leaving all cables connected, leaving the phone opened and the bracket installed, and plugged in the phone to charge and it CHARGED without issue.

Looking at the others who experienced the above, electrical tape put between battery port retaining bracket and the charging port could be the cause of the short preventing the battery from charging. Did that and fully closed the phone and no dice.

I then wrapped electrical tape around both sides length of the retaining bracket keeping only the screws exposed. I then fully closed the phone. No luck with that either.

I then removed the retaining bracket completely and closed the phone. No luck with that either, the battery would not charge.

Despite all of that, I put in my original phone battery (the one that dies at 40%), with bracket mounted without electrical tape, and lid fully closed, and the phone charges without issue.

The other thing is that I can snap the screen of the phone nearly closed except for the bottom of the phone where the home button is, keeping the screen dislodged a couple of milli-metres (not fully snapped down), and have the iFixit battery still charge successfully. When the screen is fully closed, no charge. This is also works with and without having the retaining bracket that holds down the battery connector to the battery port. Unfortunately, keeping the screen like this negates the purpose of keeping the phone scratch and damage free with my Otterbox.

I don’t understand how two new replacement batteries would have charging issues with the iphone closed, but can charge with the lid open, while the original battery charges without issue regardless. There has to be a common issue, I’m still guessing a short of some kind.

Does anyone have any ideas here on what this could be or how I can further troubleshoot? I’d rather not get a new phone as I am a big fan of re-usability of electronics.

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All of what I'm about to write is completely theoretical, as your issue is indeed very weird.

Thought #1: Your iPhone is slightly warped/bent. When you put the replacement battery inside, it's applying pressure to a part of the screen and causing a short. The original battery is similarly slightly warped/bent so when you put that back in, it's not applying the same pressure. The iFixit battery works when you DON'T fully close it, which prevents pressure to that part of the screen.

Thought #2: Similar as above, only the replacement batteries are slightly thicker than the original battery.

Check the straightness of your phone with a metal straight-edge and if it's warped/bent, address that first.

Otherwise, I might remove the home button and make sure the flex cable isn't damaged and/or shorting out against something.

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Steve makes some good suggestion. I was also thinking about pressure points but the whole bracket thing makes me wonder if the problem isn’t with the actual battery connector and how it s anchored to the logic board. I suspect there may be a poor or damaged solder joint, or the battery connector center pins (the ones that transmit charge state to the CPU) have gotten loose. Try inspecting this under magnification to see if anything seems out of order.

Otherwise, some of the symptoms you describe are in line with a Tristar failure.

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Chad Mehl さん、ありがとうございました!
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