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Repair guides and support for the fourth generation of Ford Mustang, including the Mustang GT and Mustang Cobra.

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2004 Ford Mustang 40th Anniversary Edition won't start or turn over

Car wouldn't start up so I jumped it off , next time I tried to start it up it wouldn't crank, I have replaced the starter and ignition switch still no luck, it won't even turn over.

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Hi,

You do not say but have you checked the battery? Have you checked the battery terminals cable connections and verified that they are clean and tight?

If you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter - use the Voltmeter function, these are available at most hardware stores, some cost under $10), with the engine off, check that there is at least 11.5V-12VDC across the battery terminals.

If not the battery is faulty or flat. Have you tried charging it?

With the engine running there should be between 13.8V -14.5VDC across the terminals. If there is less than this the alternator (or regulator within the alternator) is faulty and needs to be checked as it is not charging the battery.

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Took battery off and switched it with my Honda Accord, Mustang battery fired the Accord right up, but the Accord battery did nothing on the mustang, I think there is a short in the wiring,, changed out some fuses also, it just like the starter is getting no fire!

さんによる

Hi Gregory,

Have you checked out the following fuses/relay.

Engine Compartment power distribution box. Relay 4 is the Starter relay, Fuses 4 & 5 are the ignition switch.

Passenger Compartment fuse panel: Fuse 6 - function - Starter Motor relay.

Here is a link for the 2004 mustang owner's manual showing the engine compartment fuse/relay layout if you don't have one. http://www.manualslib.com/manual/616224/...

Here is a link showing the passenger compartment fuse panel layout. http://www.manualslib.com/manual/616224/...

Apologies if you have already checked all the fuses/relay.

さんによる

I have the same car, 2004 anniversary edition mustang. 3.9 liter engine. My battery has a drain, and the mechanic found it was pulling lots of amps to fuse 7 in the engine compartment..... but the schematic says 'not used'.

he tried just removing that fuse, and the check engine light comes on...

any thoughts on what the fuse 7 is hooked up to???

さんによる

Hi @pnp4kidz ,

Here is a link that also shows that fuse #7 is not used but in the description of the fuse layout it states that fuse #G (# 7 perhaps?) is "therm" 30A secondary air injection. The fuse layout is for a V6 engine so perhaps the fuse is used in a V8 if they have the same fuse layout as the V6.

Isn't there a fuse layout under the lid of the fuse block in the engine bay then?

Scan what code is coming up with the check engine light when the fuse is removed and see if it relates to the secondary air injection or check valve etc. P0412 perhaps

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For what it’s worth, you can easily determine which side of the starting circuit is the issue.

  • If you have an auto trans make sure the car is in park.
  • If you have a manual trans make sure the car is in neutral, and e-brake is engaged.

Look in the engine compartment relay box and find the starter relay. Pull the relay and look for the diagram on the side of the relay. When you identify the (usually two) pins that switch the circuit (not the control side of the relay) use a paperclip and momentarily jump them at the fuse/relay box under the hood to start the car (make sure your key is inserted and turned to the ‘on’ position before doing a relay bypass).

If it starts: than you know the battery, terminals, cables, trigger wire, ground, starter, key (if it has a chip) and ignition switch are OK.

I should have done this first recently, and didn’t; I wasted time and money on a 2005 Mustang V6 (manual trans) no start/turn-over condition. After performing the aforementioned troubleshooting, I was easily able to determine that it was the clutch safety switch that had failed; if you have an automatic, check the park/neutral safety switch for a failure.

Lastly, after determining the issue with the CSS - it was easily bypassed by shunting the CSS circuit with another paperclip after pulling the plug (till the new switch comes in).

Returned the starter, and saved big. Win. GL!

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Gregory さん、ありがとうございました!
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