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My Microsoft Surface Pro 3 has sustained a few cracks. I was able to power it on, but then the touch screen became unresponsive to my touch, although it appears to touch by itself (in the areas where the cracks are). I am planning on replacing the LCD display, but I would like to avoid replacing the digitizer. Do you think that the digitizer needs to be replaced?
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I know this is really, REALLY old but just in case somebody else ends up here looking for an answer I thought this questions deserved one. On the Surface Pro 3, as in other Surface models, the digitizer comes as an assembly with the screen. They must be replaced together. This is not to be confused with earlier models that also had a separate digitizer BOARD that connected to the main board, that would go out occasionally and also need replacement (Rarely, many of these were replaced for no reason simply because it was the cheaper part).
Now, about that assembly I mentioned. You must be sure to purchase the correct version. The early LCDs that were released were faulty and would not run properly on the default resolution. You are looking for a V.1.0 or V.1.1. 99% sure it is a V.1.1. Anything lower than that is going to be a problem. They are a different make and not compatible unless you have a very early release unit. Shop around and pay attention. Not all LCDs are created equal. The same can be said of touchscreen digitizers. Some of them you will plug in, go to test, power it up and it won't work. It will detect, load the numerous touch drivers(8 I think?) then nothing. Others seem like they have to "warm up" for some reason and will suddenly start working later.
The point of all this is to say you should buy an assembly from a reputable dealer and be sure that 1: the LCD is compatible and will display correctly and 2: the digitizer will function properly. I can not stress enough how important it is to get this right, because these assemblies are EXPENSIVE. At the time of writing this they are still around $300+. Thee is a reason you can find SP3s on ebay with cracked screens for under $100 all day. At that price, and because of the total unmitigated nightmare the SP3 is to open up and work on to begin with, and the fact that you may get all this right and still have issues because you don't have a way to properly calibrate the darn thing and have to send it into Microsoft to anyway which you could.. NAY SHOULD have just done to begin with!!
....sorry about all that I tend to get a bit worked up over this particular subject. It is just rediculous and anyone attempting this, I wish you the best of luck. Now get to work!
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I appear to be probably the only person that has fixed a lot of Microsoft Surface Pro 3 screens. I think all the ones I get from my supplier are V1.1.
The hotspots to be careful about on this device are the Wi-Fi left and right antennas on the upper area of the tablet While there is adhesive around those parts it is very easy to tear if you don't separate the adhesive properly around them.
Another thing to note is to make sure to not lose the bridge connectors that go between the lcd and digitizer connectors.
Lose one of those and you won't be able to use the device until you get the bridge connector.
Make sure you use an original charger or else you may face plugged in, not charging issues.
To date I have replaced about 5 Microsoft Surface Pro 3 screens.
You may be right. I would probably do it again if somebody brought me one but I am sure there are a lot who have done it once.. and never EVER want to do it again.
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Please, dont mess with any other parts when replacing the screen. Ive found so many folks changing digitizers and h*ll only knows just to change a broken screen and are at a loss why the device fails to work corectly. Ive changed several sreens and never a digitizer or what ever and never a blip on my device.
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If your touch screen became unresponsive, then the digitizer got some problems and you need to replace it.
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I have a Surface Pro 3 / i5 @1.9GHz. My screen crack and the mouse started to move on its own. I disable the touch screen functionality on the device manager. I'm planning to replace the screen. I want to know which screen size or parts should I get. There's so many on Amazon that get confuse. I have not open the damage screen to see the model number but my device manager tells me i have a version 1703. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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1703 is just the version of Windows 10.
I'm not sure how you can get confused as you can only buy the screen as one piece and there is pretty much only one model.
Part costs about $150.
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