The Kenmore Direct Drive is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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70 Series top loader agitates but will not drain or spin?

Washing machine fills agitates then stops will not drain or spin. If I place the hose in floor drain it does drain but still no spin. This is not a belt driven machine any assistance is appreciated.

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Good morning. The washer works fine till it reaches the spin cycle. On the rinse cycle, it fills the tub and drains fine. You can hear the motor running. NO spinning with the agitator.

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Sorry for my delay. Didn't see this post due to a technical glitch. Either your clutch is not engaging, or your spin basket is not engaging. Check first the clutch, then the spin basket.

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I have had the same problem as Lisa. Tom, your issues are exactly what my scenario is, which I rectified every single time by opening the lid, watch it trying to spin, push the start knob in and pull it back out to watch it re-engage the tub. Thus proving that it isn't the door switch, but actually some other issue. But a long term fix would be better since having to keep an eye on it all the time is just a little annoying for the price paid for the machine.

I am not very inclined to start checking out clutches or spin baskets, but if there is a fix for this, it would be great

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It needs to be recalibrated...

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Kenmore/Whirlpool 70 Series washer are not capable of having a calibration. They are manual control systems. The lid switch is all that can be replaced. Now, a Kenmore 300 or 500 would need a calibration done through the main controller, but a 70 Series is a manual dial timer system. No calibrations are performed.

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Lisa, check the lid switch. You can turn the machine to spin cycle and turn it on. Once it begins to spin, or should be, after about 10 seconds open the lid quickly and see if there was any spin motion. If there was not, try to jumper the lid switch and see if that works. Here is a good video about it. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Thank you, I was sure it was the pump.

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I had this same problem today and was so sure I was going to have to go buy a new washer and then I researched it and found this site. My husband cut off the switch and bound the two wires with a wire nut and taped them securely. VOILA the washer emptied and began the rinse cycle. THANK YOU!!

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Great response and video! Jumped the switch and it runs fine. I added a warning label on my lid "Unsafe Condition: Tub will NOT STOP when lid is opened"

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Yep I had no clue where to begin but after reading this I inspected the switch it was broken used duct tape to keep the switch in the closed position PROBLEM SLOVED Thank You

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No drain or spin is usually a broken lid switch . two screws hold the control panel in place, remove and flip the panel up and away . there will be 1 molex connector with 3 wires going into the top of the washer . disconnect and jumper two wires together using a paper clip bent into a "U". the 3rd wire is green and is a ground. insulate the jumper with electricians tape. do not jumper the ground. test the machine in spin and it should function now . this is only to diagnose the issue as it defeats the safety of spin stopping when the lid is lifted

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Tried the jumper to the moles no luck I still have water fill and adjutation but then goes dead on drain and spin total silence

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Thank You. I tested your theory by using a screw driver on the lid switch and instead of a new pump I need a new 'lid switch' which may be considerably cheaper.... Cheers!

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I know its a couple years from posts, but my washer washes, spins but during spin I'm getting a wherrrr clunk wherrr clunk very loud. Any suggestions the load is not off center.

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That is because the lid latch actually needs to be replaced. Afterwards you will have to have it calibrated, which you can do yourself (youtube video). The problem with jumpering the lid latch is that during a certain part of the wash and spin cycle the lid will unlock but if it's never lifted to show the machine then you will continuously have the same issues... does that make sense?

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With my Wirlpool Heavy Duty the lid-switch fell out in my hand when I reached for it to check it. I jumped the non-green wires with a solid wire in the white-plastic 3-pronged half of the modular switch under the panel where it went into the back of the dial panel from the top of the washer. I put a sign on the top of my washer saying "Safety Over-rides in Place - No Use By Children" or something like that.

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Sounds like the drain pump is gone as it drains by gravity without a problem. Spin won't kick in if you still have water in the tub.

If you have a volt meter see if you can read voltage at the pump when it needs to run. Be careful! as you don't want to get shocked!

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Thanks Dan. I am an idiot when it comes to working on this machine. I'm a single woman who has no choice except to try to fix it myself. It's been going downhill off n on for two weeks. Sometimes it works, sometimes it only fills and agitates, sometimes it only fills then nothing. If I wait several hours or until the next day- it starts up again but it's a toss up whether it'll finish the cycle or not. I noticed that the water level was higher than it should be last nite so I dipped some out and it started spinning. I'm a little afraid to take it apart but will cause I must get it back in better working condition

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Thank you, I assumed the worse when my machine did not empty, I too assumed the pump was the 'issue' but Mazdanoob suggested it might be a 'broken lid switch' so I went to my machine with a screw driver and tested it out and the switch was 'all the way down' into the machine.... So, new switch it is...

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How do you know if it is the drain pump or the lid switch

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Easiest way to know is by turning the timer dial to "Spin" and hearing if it starts to drain and/or spin. If there is no sound and nothing happens, 98% of the time, the lid switch is broken. If you hear a humming sound, but nothing is draining, then the pump has an obstruction. It may be locked-up from an obstruction like a sock down in the pump, or it is leaking water from the pump seal. The pump is always turning with the motor because this is a direct-drive system. The pump is attached to one side of the motor, and the transmission to the other side of the motor. But it only drains when the motor is spinning the opposite direction of the wash cycle, otherwise, it is only recirculating the water in the tub during the wash cycle. So if it's not turning/spinning/draining and the motor sounds like its just humming, then it's time to look at the pump.

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mine isnt humming, it has a rattle to it, but have checked everything

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Not sure what you mean by a rattle. Do you mean a "klacking" sound? That would be the motor coupling. Easy enough to change-out. Pull the body cover by removing the two screws that hold the control panel to the body, roll the control panel up, and remove the two clips on either side of the body to the rear panel using a flat head screw driver. Tilt the body back toward you, and remove. Take the clips off the pump motor, and then the clips on the motor. The coupling is a three-prong piece of plastic with a rubber cushion between it and the other coupling on the transmission. Break the old coupling, and replace with a new set, that has a metal keen-sert where it must be hammer-tapped onto the shaft of the transmission and the motor shaft. Be careful to use a 7/16" socket to tap the couplings on, or you will break them around the base on the transmission and motor posts. Realign the couplings through the rubber buffer, and re-clip the motor and the drain pump. Reassemble the body by holding the body by the top lid, tilt 30 degrees toward you at the lid, and slide the bottom of the body under the bar near the floor. Be careful to push the fill spout under the top of the body before replacing the clips, and the screws to the control panel.

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hello my Kenmore washer only does the washing cycle (agitates) but does not spin or drain. Someone tells me its the motor. But once it washes there is no sound. The machine simply stops. Any suggestions please?

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I have the same issue

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hi, my Kenmore model 2272 70 series is over 10 yrs old and i love it. After looking at new washers they are complicated and I'd rather just keep fixing this one. ...so during draining process in spin cycle the water is evacuating but there is a loud clicking noise as it pumps. the water has to pump aprox 6' high to the drain then it falls gravity. Never had an issue before . Did replace the clutch 11/2 yrs ago. Trying to troubleshoot . Clicking sound is not good. Could it be the Motor Coupling? or what else? Does the motor need to be replaced. Help Please. Thanks, John

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Recalibrate it! Check out a calibration issue for Kenmore on YouTube! It's unfortunate that are washing machines have a brain of Their Own!

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wrong style of washer for this

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ok i have similar problem washer does everything but spin out the water, replaced lid switch but will not spin out during spin cycle, water does drain but doesnt spin. i can manually reset to spin and it works but it wont do it during regular wash and spin cycle. washer does agitate and wash clothes, and goes through the cycles it just seems to skip the spin cycle. but the water does drain during spin cycle.

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I am having the same issue with my kenmore 70 series it will wash just skips the spin and drain cycles...It doesn't make a sound when I turn it to spin...I have read the above comments and I am hoping it's the lid switch...

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hope you have some luck, switch is easy to replace, just a little tricky to get to without removing outer shell it can be done just tricky to do. i suspect something else is going on. i need to discuss with my parts guy for some further assistance. taking things apart and putting them back together is not as difficult as repair person make it out to be, i think i spent less than $25 in parts and about an hour in repair time, granted it was my first time, utube videos helped too.

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Lisa さん、ありがとうございました!
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