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現在のバージョン作成者: Virtual Insanity

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+***New edit - old post below..***
+
+***I finally did commit to pulling it apart...***
+
+there are a lot of carefully routed wires and things that fir tightly, fair warning it's a tricky machine to work on.
+
+I wish I'd taken pictures, and am sorry i didn't.
+
+
+
+***WARNING!***[br]
+***You'll need an EXTREMELY long #2 Phillips driver, about as long as the machine is tall.***
+
+***Don't even bother to begin without this or some other solution to undo extremely deep screws in deep recesses.***[br]
+I used a 150mm long #2 Phillips bit and a screwdriver socket with 1/4" socket to turn the screwdriver bit.[br]
+All up about 300mm or 12" of shaft are needed.
+
+
+
+Also take care to organize properly - there are many screws + washers.[br]
+I have not memorized all the washer locations to ***take notes*** as you follow this!
+
+Start by removing all of the fittings from the machine and giving it a clean.[br]
+Hopper, first, outer burr, basket holder under output and tray in output.
+
+Vacuum out the burr area and remove as much debris as possible, don't want any of this to work it's way inside the machine.
+
+***WARNING! - safety hazard! keep fingers away from burrs***[br]
+Trip the machine safety by pressing and holding a pointed plastic object into the grey square at the back of the inside top where the hopper locks, then run the machine to clear out any remaining grounds.
+
+Unplug the machine.
+
+Using a 10mm socket or similar remove the center burr - it is a left hand thread so lefty tighty righty loosey.
+
+With the center burr comes the impeller (this is blamed for many faults, but i don't actually think it really is the problem in most cases). take note of washers too, i think there were a spring and flat washer under the burr nut and 2 washers under the impeller.
+
+Tip upside down.
+
+Unwind all of the cord.
+
+Remove the 4 screws.
+
+Remove the base and move it along the cord to create a free working space.
+
+Cut the cable tie holding the cables in a bundle inside the fiberglass sleeve.[br]
+***Fair warning, it's a tight space with an open motor, take care of wire routing!***
+
+Deep in the corners of the machine from the inside are 4 screws in deep holes.[br]
+These are the screws that hold the top of the machine on.
+
+Undo these 4 screws, they are deep and a pain, even worse to do up.
+
+One these are removed the machine can be turned upright.
+
+The top of the machine will now come off exposing the top insides.
+
+Remove the 2 screws from the top left / right of the display and pull the display up and forward.
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+Clip any cable ties as needed and move wires as needed.
+
+Around the grinding unit are 4 screws through rubber mounts with washers top and bottom. Undo these and take care not to lose the washers, they might stay in place nicely... or not.
+
+Now with a bit of fiddling the motor, gearbox and top unit all come out, limited by the length of the motor wire.
+
+Remove 4 screws from the back of the motor gearbox, on the motor side of the gearbox. For me holding the assembly to the left worked best, very fiddly.
+
+Once the gearbox is open the white gear with courser teeth are is the one of interest, the other can remain in its place.
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+Remove the gear and rake good notice of how it is assembled.
+
+There should be 6 balls visible pressed against holes in the metal plate.
+
+In our machine there were 4 and 2 were missing.
+
+Disassembly of this gear/clutch should be done with care, good chance of parts flying.[br]
+The nut on this is once again left hand thread, so OTHER WAY, take care washers etc...
+
+Once the clutch is opened this is likely where the damage is, it was in our case.[br]
+***Adjust your actions from this point to suit the damage you see.[br]
+It is possible if all the balls are in place and the issue is caught very early you might just get away with tightening the clutch.***
+
+We had 2 balls melted into the nylon and 2 badly bent springs.
+
+A raceway was worn into the metal part of the clutch.
+
+I bent the springs back into shape as best i could.
+
+I loaded the balls onto the springs and thought it might be worth replacing the metal part upside down due to the wear.
+
+Re-assemble it as it was, you might need a 3rd hand or a light duty vice to compress the clutch springs enough to get the nut back on.
+
+From this point I'm going to be a pain and say the old... Assembly is the reverse process of disassembly.
+
+***Wish anyone that sees this luck, and shame on Breville for knocking be back for a shitty clutch fault 2 weeks out of warranty.***
+
+***END***
+
+
+
+
+
+***OLD POST***
+
I'm 99% sure the cause is the clutch slipping.
Several Youtube videos have contained discussion regarding this but i am yet to see a detailed guide.
I have our machine apart on the bench currently and it's seeming to get trickier and trickier the further i get into it.
-I'm at a point where i've lost confidence.
+I'm at a point where I've lost confidence.
This isn't a total solution, but i hope it might help someone?

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オリジナル投稿者: Virtual Insanity

テキスト:

I'm 99% sure the cause is the clutch slipping.

Several Youtube videos have contained discussion regarding this but i am yet to see a detailed guide.

I have our machine apart on the bench currently and it's seeming to get trickier and trickier the further i get into it.

I'm at a point where i've lost confidence.

This isn't a total solution, but i hope it might help someone?

ステータス:

open