+ | ***New edit - old post below..*** |
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+ | |
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+ | ***I finally did commit to pulling it apart...*** |
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+ | |
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+ | there are a lot of carefully routed wires and things that fir tightly, fair warning it's a tricky machine to work on. |
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+ | I wish I'd taken pictures, and am sorry i didn't. |
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+ | |
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+ | |
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+ | ***WARNING!***[br] |
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+ | ***You'll need an EXTREMELY long #2 Phillips driver, about as long as the machine is tall.*** |
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+ | |
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+ | ***Don't even bother to begin without this or some other solution to undo extremely deep screws in deep recesses.***[br] |
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+ | I used a 150mm long #2 Phillips bit and a screwdriver socket with 1/4" socket to turn the screwdriver bit.[br] |
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+ | All up about 300mm or 12" of shaft are needed. |
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+ | |
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+ | |
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+ | Also take care to organize properly - there are many screws + washers.[br] |
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+ | I have not memorized all the washer locations to ***take notes*** as you follow this! |
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+ | |
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+ | Start by removing all of the fittings from the machine and giving it a clean.[br] |
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+ | Hopper, first, outer burr, basket holder under output and tray in output. |
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+ | |
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+ | Vacuum out the burr area and remove as much debris as possible, don't want any of this to work it's way inside the machine. |
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+ | |
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+ | ***WARNING! - safety hazard! keep fingers away from burrs***[br] |
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+ | Trip the machine safety by pressing and holding a pointed plastic object into the grey square at the back of the inside top where the hopper locks, then run the machine to clear out any remaining grounds. |
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+ | |
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+ | Unplug the machine. |
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+ | |
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+ | Using a 10mm socket or similar remove the center burr - it is a left hand thread so lefty tighty righty loosey. |
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+ | With the center burr comes the impeller (this is blamed for many faults, but i don't actually think it really is the problem in most cases). take note of washers too, i think there were a spring and flat washer under the burr nut and 2 washers under the impeller. |
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+ | Tip upside down. |
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+ | |
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+ | Unwind all of the cord. |
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+ | |
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+ | Remove the 4 screws. |
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+ | |
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+ | Remove the base and move it along the cord to create a free working space. |
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+ | |
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+ | Cut the cable tie holding the cables in a bundle inside the fiberglass sleeve.[br] |
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+ | ***Fair warning, it's a tight space with an open motor, take care of wire routing!*** |
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+ | |
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+ | Deep in the corners of the machine from the inside are 4 screws in deep holes.[br] |
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+ | These are the screws that hold the top of the machine on. |
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+ | |
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+ | Undo these 4 screws, they are deep and a pain, even worse to do up. |
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+ | |
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+ | One these are removed the machine can be turned upright. |
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+ | |
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+ | The top of the machine will now come off exposing the top insides. |
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+ | |
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+ | Remove the 2 screws from the top left / right of the display and pull the display up and forward. |
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+ | |
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+ | Clip any cable ties as needed and move wires as needed. |
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+ | |
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+ | Around the grinding unit are 4 screws through rubber mounts with washers top and bottom. Undo these and take care not to lose the washers, they might stay in place nicely... or not. |
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+ | |
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+ | Now with a bit of fiddling the motor, gearbox and top unit all come out, limited by the length of the motor wire. |
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+ | |
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+ | Remove 4 screws from the back of the motor gearbox, on the motor side of the gearbox. For me holding the assembly to the left worked best, very fiddly. |
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+ | |
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+ | Once the gearbox is open the white gear with courser teeth are is the one of interest, the other can remain in its place. |
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+ | |
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+ | Remove the gear and rake good notice of how it is assembled. |
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+ | There should be 6 balls visible pressed against holes in the metal plate. |
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+ | |
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+ | In our machine there were 4 and 2 were missing. |
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+ | |
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+ | Disassembly of this gear/clutch should be done with care, good chance of parts flying.[br] |
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+ | The nut on this is once again left hand thread, so OTHER WAY, take care washers etc... |
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+ | |
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+ | Once the clutch is opened this is likely where the damage is, it was in our case.[br] |
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+ | ***Adjust your actions from this point to suit the damage you see.[br] |
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+ | It is possible if all the balls are in place and the issue is caught very early you might just get away with tightening the clutch.*** |
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+ | |
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+ | We had 2 balls melted into the nylon and 2 badly bent springs. |
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+ | A raceway was worn into the metal part of the clutch. |
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+ | I bent the springs back into shape as best i could. |
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+ | I loaded the balls onto the springs and thought it might be worth replacing the metal part upside down due to the wear. |
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+ | Re-assemble it as it was, you might need a 3rd hand or a light duty vice to compress the clutch springs enough to get the nut back on. |
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+ | From this point I'm going to be a pain and say the old... Assembly is the reverse process of disassembly. |
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+ | |
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+ | ***Wish anyone that sees this luck, and shame on Breville for knocking be back for a shitty clutch fault 2 weeks out of warranty.*** |
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+ | |
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+ | ***END*** |
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+ | |
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+ | |
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+ | ***OLD POST*** |
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+ | |
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