This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first if you have never soldered before, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
== Update 6/12/19 ==
Here is the controller board:
[image|1786128]
-
The capacitors on the controller board are going to be SMD as there are no through hole points that indicate that they’re through hole. You will need to use a hot air gun to get these off, as a soldering iron tends to not work very well.
+
The capacitors on the controller board are going to be SMD as there are no through hole points that indicate that they’re through hole. You will need to use a hot air gun to get these off, as a soldering iron tends to not work very well. I do not have the values, but you can get them off of the capacitors or a reference board.
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first if you have never soldered before, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
-
-
== Update 6/12/19 ==
-
Here is the controller board:
[image|1786128]
+
+
The capacitors on the controller board are going to be SMD as there are no through hole points that indicate that they’re through hole. You will need to use a hot air gun to get these off, as a soldering iron tends to not work very well.
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first if you have never soldered before, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
-
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
+
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first if you have never soldered before, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace the capacitors in the monitor.
+
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace the capacitors in the monitor.
The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue.
Refer to [guide|41648|this guide] to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board.