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現在のバージョン作成者: Rany ,

テキスト:

This is a bit tricky and one of the reasons why I never sell my screens to DIYers. Not talking bad about anyone who is brave enough to try this repair, but I know how many things can go wrong. And I've ruined quite a few screens in my days until I learned to have a light hand. [br]
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So based on your description, I would say that most likely all the failures are due to a bad part or a botched repair - as opposed to a bad logic board that may be causing these issues.[br]
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Lines, squares, artifacts on the screen, screen fading out, and missing touch lines can all be either bad screen cable, or badly inserted connector. Or damaged connector on the board if you've been rough on them.[br]
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Screens ghosting (multi touching by themselves) are most often bad screens. [br]
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Finally, most screens on the market are very cheap copies that fail out of the box or don't last at all.[br]
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To make a long story short:[br]
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1- Pay a bit more and buy from a reputed seller. Believe me when I say that we (as in third party repair shops that care for our image, our customers, and care to perform a repair once and not have it come back for warranty) most often pay wholesale prices that are higher than retail prices on Amazon and Ebay and similar vendors. That's because there are so many various types and qualities of screen assemblies, that they can start very cheap (around $10 for an iPhone 6 screen) and double, triple, or quadruple in price. A good tech knows to avoid the cheap quality as they equal headache, as you just experienced yourself. The screens that iFixit sell on their website are a great option in my opinion and I often use them.[br]
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2- You have to make sure the connector on the logic board is clean; not broken; no black plastic bits at the “corners” having been smashed into the connector, thus preventing the screen connector from clicking in properly. Use a magnifying glass to examine it. Bare eyes are seldom sufficient to notice this kind of damage. [br]
-3- You make sure the connector on the cable of the LCD is straight, not “banana'd.” The touch connector which is the widest one usually bend very easily, doesn't sit properly in it's slot, thus causing many issues with touch.
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+3- You make sure the connector on the cable of the LCD is straight, not “banana'd.” The touch connector which is the widest one usually bends very easily, doesn't sit properly in its slot, thus causing many issues with touch.
4- You have to have a very light hand. The LCD cable connectors are welded or connected on their other end to the LCD and digitizer. If you push the connectors on the LCD cable in place and don't have slack on the cables (as if you are pulling the cable away from the screen), you'll cause tiny fractures where the cables on the other end attach to the LCD and digitizer, which may cause many issues as well. [br]
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5- Finally, if the old screen is still showing an image and touch is still working on it, fit it back to see if you have any touch issues. This is a good way to isolate the cause of the touch failures. If both screens fail the same way, you have a bad board or bad connector on the board. If one works perfectly and the other not, the latter is bad.
Good luck!

ステータス:

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オリジナル投稿者: Rany ,

テキスト:

This is a bit tricky and one of the reasons why I never sell my screens to DIYers. Not talking bad about anyone who is brave enough to try this repair, but I know how many things can go wrong. And I've ruined quite a few screens in my days until I learned to have a light hand. [br]

So based on your description, I would say that most likely all the failures are due to a bad part or a botched repair - as opposed to a bad logic board  that may be causing these issues.[br]

Lines, squares, artifacts on the screen, screen fading out, and missing touch lines can all be either bad screen cable, or badly inserted connector. Or damaged connector on the board if you've been rough on them.[br]

Screens ghosting (multi touching by themselves) are most often bad screens. [br]

Finally, most screens on the market are very cheap copies that fail out of the box or don't last at all.[br]

To make a long story short:[br]

1- Pay a bit more and buy from a reputed seller. Believe me when I say that we (as in third party repair shops that care for our image, our customers, and care to perform a repair once and not have it come back for warranty) most often pay wholesale prices that are higher than  retail prices on Amazon and Ebay and similar vendors. That's because there are so many various types and qualities of screen assemblies, that they can start very cheap (around $10 for an iPhone 6 screen) and double, triple, or quadruple in price. A good tech knows to avoid the cheap quality as they equal headache, as you just experienced yourself. The screens that iFixit sell on their website are a great option in my opinion and I often use them.[br]

2- You have to make sure the connector on the logic board is clean; not broken; no black plastic bits at the “corners” having been smashed into the connector, thus preventing the screen connector from clicking in properly. Use a magnifying glass to examine it. Bare eyes are seldom sufficient to notice this kind of damage. [br]

3- You make sure the connector on the cable of the LCD is straight, not “banana'd.” The touch connector which is the widest one usually bend very easily, doesn't sit properly in it's slot, thus causing many issues with touch.

4- You have to have a very light hand.  The LCD cable connectors are welded or connected on their other end to the LCD and digitizer. If you push the connectors on the LCD cable in place and don't have slack on the cables (as if you are pulling the cable away from the screen), you'll cause tiny fractures where the cables on the other end attach to the LCD and digitizer, which may cause many issues as well. [br]

5- Finally, if the old screen is still showing an image and touch is still working on it, fit it back to see if you have any touch issues. This is a good way to isolate the cause of the touch failures. If both screens fail the same way, you have a bad board or bad connector on the board. If one works perfectly and the other not, the latter is bad.

Good luck!

ステータス:

open