オリジナル投稿者： jim1fun1 ,
My car was the ZX3 2 door hatch back but probably all body styles have the reservoir in the same location. First this is not an easy job and will probably cost a few bucks to get a mechanic to do it. If you are going to do this yourself the first part that should come off is the filler neck under the hood. Mine was a bear but if you spray some silicone down where the neck pushes into the reservoir after you remove the bolt. you can work the filler neck back and forth to get the silicone down around the bushing then take two pair of vice grips and clamp them one the neck and pullllll. You have to remove the right (passenger side) front wheel and remove the inner fender liner. The push pins on the liner can't be just pulled out. You have to pry and screw out the center of the pin before you can remove the body from the hole. Once the inner fender is down there are two bolts that hold the reservoir in. One is down at the bottom near the pump and the other is up at the top under the AC hoses that run along the top of the inner fender. You can pop the lines loose to remove the bolt but that won't get you enough room to move the pump to a position where you can remove it. You will have to unbolt the AC bottle that the lines go to and also drill out the rivet that holds the AC lines at the top inside the inner fender. This will give you enough room to move the reservoir forward to remove the pump. Caution: use a screw driver to remove the stuck on hoses to the pump. They are usually almost welded on the fittings. Now you have to determine if the it's the pump or wiring. Run a test light that is long enough to reach the battery and the pump connector. On my vehicle there is a two way pump. There are two hoses coming off the bottom of the pump. One for the windshield and one for the rear hatch. The pump spins in opposite directions to wash one or the other. That being said, when someone holds the washer switch for the windshield one terminal on the washer connector is positive and one is negative. If you push the washer switch for the rear window the connector terminals switch polarity, so your positive is now negative (ground) and the other is now hot, positive. So that means to test the connector for ground the switch has to be depressed in the car to make the connection. If you determine that you are getting power and ground to the pump, it's time to get a new one. Check inside where the pump pushes into the grommet for the fluid to make sure the screen inside isn't clogged. Get your new pump and lube everything with silicone to facilitate getting everything together. Check your new pump to make sure it works by putting the electrical connector on first and trying it. Note, it wouldn't hurt to put some dielectric compound on the connector to help eliminate corrosion. Put your rear washer hose on next. Once the back hose and wiring are on the pump, lube the reservoir grommet and pump nipple and push the pump into the reservoir. Now connect your other pump hose. At this point I would line up the upper grommet with the hole in the fender a put in a little washer fluid to make sure nothing leaks and the pump pumps fluid before I put everything back together. I don't know about you but I'm lazy, I hate doing stuff twice cause I got in a hurry.... Once everything seems to be working fine reverse the removal procecure. Bolt the reservoir back in and then the AC canister. Pop rivet the hose retainer back to the top of the inner fender well and reattach your hoses. Then the filler neck needs put back on. Don't forget to silicone the grommet and the filler neck to get it to go in easier. Then install your inner fender liner and the front wheel. PS: make sure you torque you lugnuts on the wheel. The spec is in your owners manual under changing the spare tire. Good Luck. A fifteen dollar pump will probably cost you about $100.00 by a mechanic.