⟐ Answered 1月 30, 2026 at 11:40 GMT-7

I have checked the cable and connector multiple times, but I can’t find any damage.

⟐ Commented 1月 26, 2026 at 14:27 GMT-7

DO NOT DO THIS!

You loose your switch then be hung out to dry because there are no boards on the planet for replacement. That piece of METAL will crush that sensor when ever you are not paying attention or someone else picks up your deck and crushes that LB for either the killing blow or having a temper tantrum.

What you WANT to do is balance that bumper back into its floating neutral position by changing the spring. Yeah. the whole bumper is a floater, when your spring is tired (worn out, no oomph in the return) you get a dead head bumper. limp and weak. then you get mad crushing it, and then it stops clicking. and to get the clicking back, lets put metal over tiny portion of rubber and steal. no.

Change the spring. change the spring, change the spring. But, where do i get a spring? Duuh... any kind of clicking pen.

WAIT this is important. They are not you manufacture spec bumper springs. therefore, the onus is on you to correctly install the modified spring at a correct compression and length and diameter. And make sure the spring is a compression spring not an expansion spring. Just, ... compression. <--- squishy.

if you have the finger strength of a 50 year old martial arts veteran and the skin durability of a rhino, like me (i got my strength s another way), you can pretty much craft a good one with your fingers and not need gloves, band aids, eye protection, first aider on site, mom and/ or dad watching, At least wear eye protection PLEASE. a spring will cull your eyeball before you blink leaving you stunned, then panicking, then screaming, then terrors. PPE Personal Protective Equipment learn it and us it. Not a joke.

DO IT NOW! PPE.

So, you've rolled out a spring, with some stretching and twisting. good. Your reference for a good tension is, you guessed it, the opposite side of your device.

The length of your spring should be... not the same as the original. Because it's not an original, i recommend (if you are going to attempt this) starting with your hand made deformity longer than what is needed and clip .5 to 1 spiral at a time. There will be a point where your like this is ridiculous, and you cut more.... and now your spring is no good because it either too short or hasn't the tension you desire. So, 0.5 (ONE HALF, 1/2) to 1 (ONE, WHOLE Measure) SPIRAL at a time. For your sanity and bleeding finger tips cannot do another spring to save their lives.

Dollar Store get a cart fill it with different pens. Maybe you'll get lucky and China has made a pen just for you! I didn't find mine yet, but I'm close.

Here's my question.

When has it ever been a good idea to create higher force ratings in a components spring assembly where the ratings of force are lower than lifting 175ml of fluid?

Never. that's the answer.

CHEERS! this works, well it did for me. Did the same for a trigger to.

JI-HAW AWM E118077 20706 105C 60V 8-Pin

for Left Daughter Board to Main Board Connection

and I cannot find one. is there anyone who knows where to buy this ribbon cable.

⟐ Answered 1月 07, 2026 at 21:34 GMT-7

So, one day. a few hours after putting down my steam deck, ii pick it back up to play again (any game, it's not relevant to the issue). Only to find that my in game function of the R2 trigger to fire is ZERO response to fire. But responds to menu tabbing in the pause screen? What the hell! I try different game, same thing.

Button function test... it works according to the test provided on the deck, however, it is constantly being pushed down. even though i snap release it trigger to have it come forward full velocity from its spring. I've tried removing key mappings and other linked actions to no avail.

wait there's more!!!

Also the steam menu and '...' buttons are activating a mouse button instead of opening menus as they should. I cant seem to get that resolved either. There are too many half wit videos (they get you half way into something and stop). So, i haven't completely invested time into a reset of those buttons. Advise for this please.

I haven't opened a steam ticket either, i really just don't want to do that with the 8-16 interval msg responding time. Maybe later.

In summation

R2 is triggered, but not triggered by finger. Likes to function with selected core key mapping.

[(steam) menu], [. . .] buttons locked in some world of mouse and keyboard use and refuse to come back to gaming reality.

I am open to suggesting redoes of tests and functions or other new ideas to resolve these dudes. I am a master technician in hobby town. I can rebuild a deck, but only with a good guide. so i am comfortable opening up for surgery and doing closing as well.

Thank you!

⟐ Commented 1月 07, 2026 at 8:56 GMT-7

The middle pad (B) on my steam deck's power button got ripped off. I want to bridge the middle pin to a via or another pad but don't know which one. Do you guys know any?

The pads with the stars are all ground.

In case there's no pad I can bridge to, do you know how to turn my deck on without using the power button? Thanks a lot 🙏.

⟐ Commented 1月 06, 2026 at 6:20 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 1月 05, 2026 at 17:47 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 12月 28, 2025 at 15:58 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 12月 24, 2025 at 0:04 GMT-7

I've been trying to fix my OLED Steam Deck and pretty sure I'm too dumb to be doing it. I've looked everywhere and tried different button combos but can't get it running. One of my cats spilled a drink on it and I feel like I've tried everything and I've only got it to boot once. At the moment it's blinking white light while off a charger. I've plugged in my original charger and different 45W ones, with no luck. When trying button combos, I've tried ... & + and got an orange light or yellow light depending on whether I plugged in the battery or not and so I put it back together and I'm now looking a longer green light before getting and quicker white light, rinse and repeat.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

⟐ Edited 12月 23, 2025 at 11:25 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 12月 22, 2025 at 8:23 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 12月 17, 2025 at 14:29 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 12月 16, 2025 at 14:11 GMT-7

Does anyone else's steam deck do this? is it a raise for concern? I'm just worried it might be a sign of damage or something.

https://youtube.com/shorts/3ThRNASrJ2Y?s...

I've got a steam deck that started having problems a few days ago. When pressing either the steam or quick access (...) button, it will begin scrolling to the right and continue past the end of the scroll (you hear the sound it makes when theres nowhere to scroll to) until the b button is pressed.

The only diagnostic efforts I've made so far is removing both button boards, both touchpads, analog sticks, and all buttons associated. I cleaned the non electrical components with soapy water, and the electrical components with 91% IPA. Shows the same issues after reassembly.

I have not observed any damage to the internals, liquid or otherwise. Thanks in advance for any insights or advice!

When I start up the SteamDeck, the buttons arent recognized and do nothing. I only assume its because the latch thats supposed to be there, isnt.

My question to the SteamDeck gurus are:

1. Should the buttons still actuate with the cable slid in as showing, or is the black latch integral to making it work? I understand that the latch keeps it firmly in place, but if the buttons arent working, is that instead a sign of other issues?
2. Would ordering a new connector and cannabilizing its black latch, fix this problem?
3. Has anyone had to do this sort of thing before?
4. Do you know exactly what this part is called? I assume ifixit, amazon or aliexpress would have the part needed, just dont want to order the wrong thing.
5. ***

***

⟐ Commented 12月 01, 2025 at 12:33 GMT-7