故障の確認の仕方や、交換が必要なパーツ、道具などを教えていただけると嬉しいです。

よろしくお願いします。

（ちなみに、十字キーは上下と左は効きます 😫）

音は出るが画面が付かなかったため（充電ケーブルを繋ぐと電源は入る）、原因を探るために分解しました。

（この時点ではボタンの効きはちゃんと確認していませんでした。）

使用したガイドはNintendo Switch Lite Screen Replacementですが、スクリーンのテープを外す道具を持っていなかっためその手前（手順54）まで行いました。

分解後、左右の基盤をつなぐケーブルが断線していたため、そこが原因だと思い購入し交換しました。

一旦組み上げた直後は画面が付いたのですが、喜び勇んで再度組み直した後（ネジ類が仮止めだったため）、上記の状態になってしまいました。

• 左右の基盤をつなぐケーブルが刺さるZIFコネクタの目視確認（おそらくピン折れ、焦げなどはなし）
• ZIFコネクタのラッチが閉まっていること
• 効かないボタンの接点を無水アルコールに浸した綿棒で掃除

• ドライバーセット（Y00, PH000含む）
• 無水アルコール
• ピンセット
• はんだごて（100V 20W）
• テスター

よろしくお願いします。

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:32 GMT-7

初めての質問失礼します。

現在の状況としては、画面下に「緑色の帯」が出るといった状況です。

下側を軽く押すと、圧力によってか緑色の帯が出てきます。

また、再起動することによってなぜか直ります。

ハードウェア的要因かソフトウェアなのかわかりません！

ご回答お願いします。

英語/English

Excuse me for asking a question for the first time.

The current situation is that a 'green band' appears at the bottom of the screen.

When I lightly press the bottom part, the green band appears, possibly due to the pressure.

Also, for some reason, restarting fixes it.

I don't know if this is a hardware or software issue!

I would appreciate your response.

⟐ Answer accepted 2月 21, 2026 at 5:20 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 16, 2024 at 2:59 GMT-7

I ordered a new right rail from eBay. I thought the rail might be the problem . I replaced it successfully but no change. If anyone has an idea i would appreciate it.

⟐ Commented 9月 07, 2026 at 11:08 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 02, 2026 at 20:26 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 02, 2026 at 13:47 GMT-7

I’m wondering if the same thing could be done on Switch 2.

The user manual says that, when docked, the console always activates its Bluetooth antenna. This behaviour is identical to Switch 1. However, I suspect it does not emit any signal as long as no wireless controller tries to communicate with it. This is how Switch 1 works, thus enabling to play in docked mode without any Bluetooth.

I contacted customer support at Nintendo. Twice. But the persons I got in touch with did not understand my question, and replied that I “just need to turn off Bluetooth”, which is impossible when the console is plugged to a TV (as Nintendo’s own user manual says).

A friend of mine confirmed that the setting to force wired controllers to communicate via their cable is still present on Switch 2. So the only remaining question really is to know whether the Bluetooth antenna stays silent as long as not wireless devices tries to communicate with it, exactly as Switch 1 did.

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Commented 8月 28, 2026 at 2:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 23, 2026 at 23:18 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8月 22, 2026 at 14:33 GMT-7

I can sometimes get one controller to pair ok for a couple of minutes but never two. I replaced the bluetooth module. Any clue?

⟐ Commented 8月 18, 2026 at 0:28 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 8月 16, 2026 at 6:06 GMT-7

I'm not the first owner of this console, but I know the capacitors on the left side of the APU cover have been replaced as they were damaged during maintenance of thermal paste replacement.

Replacing speakers (both from a donor) and swapping original speaker from left to right did not solve this. Absolutely nothing changes. What could be wrong?

3.5mm jack and wireless headphones works just fine, only speaker having an issue. Anything on the board could be related?

Video with audio test
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kDIwIAyen...

⟐ Commented 8月 16, 2026 at 2:03 GMT-7

What wasn't apparent at first is that the touchscreen now has issues. Most of the time the Switch remains docked, but when undocking to go portable (from standby), the touchscreen doesn't function properly, registering ghost inputs, rendering the Switch inoperable. Thus far the only solution is to fully reboot the switch prior to undocking. After that, seems to work fine in portable.

This issue was NOT present prior to the repair. Now I see mixed explanations for this issue:

• Some posts talk about a potential incompatibility between the Switch and the Card Reader (something about there being multiple versions of the card reader), which I feel is unlikely since after a reboot the issues goes away, AND I know with confidence I have the original HAC-001 model and ordered the appropriate part from iFixit.
• Some posts says it may be as simple as the ribbon connecting the game card reader not being fully seated. While this would be great since I could just crack it open and reseat the ribbon, IMHO it still doesn't explain why the touchscreen works after a reboot.
• Some posts says I should just use the custom bootloader Hekate to calibrate the touchscreen but I have some apprehensions going down the modded Switch route, this is a family console primarily used by my Wife and kids and I don't want to mess something up.

Any ideas? I'm hesitant to crack it open again without being reasonably sure it will resolve the issue.

⟐ Commented 8月 14, 2026 at 0:46 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8月 12, 2026 at 17:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 12, 2026 at 12:31 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 11, 2026 at 3:36 GMT-7

To add, before I replaced it, it was not going left or right. Replaced it and still does the same thing.

⟐ Commented 8月 09, 2026 at 13:32 GMT-7