⟐ Answered 1月 26, 2026 at 13:24 GMT-7

So, my Switch stopped taking any charge whatsoever and would not turn on. So, I replaced the battery. Now the Switch comes on, displays the "Nintendo" Logo, and then goes to an error screen. The code I'm getting is 2101-0001. Is there any way to fix this?

Thanks for the help in advance!

⟐ Commented 12月 17, 2025 at 21:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6月 18, 2025 at 14:54 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 12月 13, 2021 at 11:48 GMT-7

Recently I got a Nintendo Switch that suddenly stopped charging.

Now it is completely dead. Black screen, no battery charging signal whatsoever.

When it is placed on the dock, the green light starts blinking fast and stays that way until unplugged.

I tried replacing the battery to no avail.

I´m not sure if the USB-C port could be the problem, or maybe i need to replace the M92T36 charging power control chip, or the BQ24193.

Any suggestions on how to find out the damaged part?

Thanks in advance!

UPDATE:

I managed to get the system started with the new battery, everything works, but when i connect the psu in the charging port it doesnt respond. It shows no signal of charging. When the charger is connected, the system starts to overheat (even when it is off).

It seems this is a port problem. What do you think?

⟐ Answered 5月 08, 2023 at 7:02 GMT-7

**UPDATE** 8/17/20

So it doesn’t really seem like we’ve found a working combination yet, I made a google spreadsheet so we can keep track of what has been tried and what works. Feel free to add your own attempts/info so we can track down what works! Link below:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1...

**UPDATE** 9/24/20

Thanks to @metrons for finding a solution (works for non-patched switches). According to CTCaer on github (writer of Hekate), there are four versions of the switch digitizer. These are not cross compatible unless you re-calibrate your touchscreen using third-party software (e.g. Hekate). If you have an older non-patched switch, load Hekate and try the touchscreen calibration under “tools”. Make sure to use the latest version of Hekate, as only the newer ones have joy-con support allowing you to navigate to the calibration utility without touch. If the calibration fails, it most likely means you have a loose connection or the digitizer is trashed; try unplugging and reinserting the ribbon cable (worked for me).

I’m still hoping we can find a way to match digitizers for those with patched switches! Thanks for your help everyone!

⟐ Commented 5月 22, 2025 at 10:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7月 07, 2024 at 12:07 GMT-7

Essentially my switch is stuck at boot on the switch logo. This happened after it froze on a blank screen for the first time (white with a slight orangy tint) while waking it up from sleep while docked using the Joy-Cons.

I’ve never used any third-party dock or charger, no water, no falls.

Could this be a hardware issue?

Initially I thought so because of the similarity to the dock issues, but after running some tests (see below) I thought it might be software related. Fixing the software didn’t help either though, so I’m still not sure what the issue is.

• Switch is stuck on boot at switch logo.
• Joy-Cons sync up immediately when powered on.
• Charging via official charger works.
• While docked the green light quickly flashes and then stays dark. No HDMI output, built-in screen remains on.
• Screen, Joy-Cons, Touchscreen, Sound, USB-C port, SD-card reader, etc. all works.

• Hard reset via power button
• Completely discharging and recharging it
• Entering recovery mode -> not possible, since it gets stuck on switch logo before
• Entering safe mode -> this is actually possible but it doesn't seem to do anything (the square rotates but the progress bar stays empty for hours)

• Opening it up and checking for shorts on some of the capacitors (especially charging ICs) -> nothing

Note that I only starting messing with the software after it bricked to diagnose and fix the issue.

• RCM mode, payloads, and custom bootloader work fine.
• Full NAND backup/restore works.
• CFWs do not boot! They are stuck at the same place as the OFW.
• Linux with Retroarch boots and works flawlessly as far as I could tell from a quick test.

At this point I'm thinking the hardware is fine, and it's just the OS that messed itself up somehow and since the CFWs are more like patches than independent firmwares, it makes sense that they would be affected as well. So

• I flashed two different official firmware versions (6.1 and 5.1) using ChoiDuJour (PC) thinking that would fix it, but neither of them were able to get past the switch logo either.

Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading this far!

Edit: formatting & picture, as per suggestion

⟐ Commented 10月 22, 2025 at 11:59 GMT-7

I got dead console, no recipe for gurantee so I'm alone.

Console doesn't respond on anything. Console is getting very warm when it's plugged to original PSU. I think battery is charging because when i plug off PSU, for some time switch stays warm. What should I do? I'am thinking about new battery but this will not be that easy right? Maybe someone know what chip is need to be replaced ? I think the blue one but what do you think guys? https://2.allegroimg.com/original/03fb0c...

By the way, when i plug it into dock. Green light shows for 1 second when console get contact with usb.

⟐ Commented 1月 24, 2024 at 14:55 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 9月 16, 2022 at 10:22 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 9月 24, 2023 at 0:31 GMT-7

If so, could you breakdown what equipment is needed?

⟐ Answered 1月 01, 2022 at 4:28 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 3月 12, 2026 at 5:16 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 3月 12, 2026 at 8:38 GMT-7

⟐ Answer deleted 2月 27, 2019 at 21:05 GMT-7

So I have a nintendo switch that is giving me some issues. It's never been used on any 3rd party dock or chargers, only the official supplied chargers. I hadn't played it for about a day or so, and when I came back and tried to turn it on it was dead. When I plugged it in it would show the battery symbol, but never charge up enough to get it to boot. I googled around for about an hour and tried everything possible with no success.

I then booted the switch into RCM mode and was able to boot to Hekate. Through hekate I can see that the battery capacity is 100% of the original capacity, but the current capacity is somewhere around 3%. From there I tried a battery fix tool that is built into Hekate, that did not solve the problem. After that, I rebooted the console through Hekate. This time, to my surprise, it actually booted all the way through. My profile loaded up and everything came back. The problem now is that the switch still is not charging. The device will stay on, but it is currently stuck at 2%. If I turn the device off and leave it charging it will now charge incredibly slow, and eventually deplete again when turned on. The good news is that the device will now turn on if left on the charger for an hour or two.

I have a few years of experience repairing electronics and soldering devices, so I figured I would open it up and take a look. I did a lot of googling and gathered all the info I could, and then went to work. The charge port seems to be working fine, currently the switch is pulling .47A at 4.97V. I am checking this using a little dongle and a 3rd party cable. As far as I can find, this means that the device is charging correctly. When I check pin 5 on M92T36 I get 3.29V. According to a few people on the internet (which may or may not be accurate), this means that M92T36 is not the problem. I believe this is one of the most common problems with the switch right now, so I was surprised to see that it is (again, I could be wrong) working fine. From here, I tested BQ24193. On both VBUS pins (1 and 24) I am getting 4.8V, and as far as I can tell this means that power is getting to the chip. All of these readings are while the device is plugged in. After this, I turned off the device while it was plugged in and left it for around 30 minutes. I then booted back into Hekate, it told me that the battery was at 10%. So the console is getting power, but it's charging very slowly.

I just tested the battery to make sure that was working as well. While plugged into the system (the battery, the charge cord is unplugged) I'm getting 3.5V from both of the positive power lines. With the battery unplugged I'm still getting 3.5V from each positive power line. The battery says it has a 3.7V output, so this is close enough. I believe the battery is fine based on these measurements.

With all of that said, is there any chance you guys could provide any assistance to me? If I could be pointed in the right direction I could keep trying to figure it out, but at the moment I'm stuck. I can't seem to find any more info as far as what I need to check to see if everything is receiving the correct amount of power. From what I can find everything is testing fine, so there must be something that I need to check that I can't find any info on. If you guys could provide me with any info that would be amazing.

Thanks

⟐ Commented 3月 25, 2026 at 13:10 GMT-7

I discovered that there are replacement digitizers on eBay and Aliexpress available already. However, it seems that all of them do not come with adhesive preapplied.

Does anyone know what type of adhesive is used inside the Nintendo Switch that is glueing the digitizer onto the housing?

Thank you very much in advance!

⟐ Answered 8月 20, 2020 at 16:55 GMT-7

When I connect the Switch to the dock, it does receive a charge through it and the green light to indicate it’s outputting to an HDTV lights up, but no image or sound is produced on the TV.

I have already gone through Nintendo’s official troubleshooting steps with basic things like trying other TV’s, other HDMI cables, etc. I have tried different combinations of the order in which I plug the cables into the dock before I actually connect the Switch and none of that has made any difference. In fact, according to Nintendo, if I am getting the green light on the dock but there is still no image displayed on the TV, then I should send it in for repair. Heh.

So rather than drop close to $90 for an official Nintendo dock or $40 for a third-party dock, does anyone have any other suggestions? Is there any way to go about troubleshooting the controller board inside the docking station? Could the USB-C port I used to fix the no charging issue due to the damaged pins be to blame? Could the damage to the original USB-C port have caused other damage to diodes, resistors, ICs?

Thanks.

⟐ Commented 1月 27, 2023 at 17:07 GMT-7

The switch seems to be okay and it still charges when I attach it to the dock. I've tried just about every version of turning it on and off/unplugging and plugging back in, and the screen still seems to be black.

I don't have the resources to pay for nintendo to fix it and would like to do the repair myself.

Any idea how to fix this?

⟐ Commented 10月 22, 2025 at 14:55 GMT-7

Recently my Switches screen started acting up out of nowhere. When I power it on or wake it the screen is covered in multicolored horizontal lines with a sort of grid pattern, after about 1-3 seconds the screen will go black with backlighting still present. The digitizer seems to work perfectly as well, and the Switch functions normally when docked. This problem seems to have appeared out of the blue with no forewarning. It seems to have occurred in the span of about 5-10 minutes. I plugged my switch into the charger and left the room for a moment, upon returning the screen was completely covered in the aforementioned lines. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the lcd or possibly an issue with the motherboard. I opened the switch up and there doesn’t seem to be any issue with the ribbon cables or connection. Any help would be very very much appreciated.

⟐ Answered 2月 18, 2025 at 14:16 GMT-7