また適切な量も教えて頂けると助かります。

エアダスターでのホコリ除去なども試してみました。

元々このタイプの古いMacBookProはリコール対象だったことを知らず、Appleでキーボードの無償修理があったようですが、ちょうど調子が悪くなったタイミングがその期限の過ぎた後で対応できませんとのこと。

もし詳しい方で何か対処法をご存知の方がおられましたら、ご教示いただけるとありがたいです。

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 09, 2026 at 3:03 GMT-7

2011年9月にApple StoreでMacBook Airを新品で購入しました。そしてトラックパッドが、2012年9月に反応しなくなったため、Appleで交換しました。この修理以来、問題は発生していません。

今朝は問題なく動作していたのに、今日の夕方、キーボードとトラックパッドが全く反応しなくなりました。キーボードで動作するキーは、電源ボタンだけです。システム設定では、トラックパッドが接続されていることすら認識されなくなりました。

インターネットのフォーラムで、MacBook Proで同じような問題を抱えた人がいて、それはバッテリーの下にあるリボンケーブルが緩んでいたからだという話を読んだことがあります。しかし、この問題がMacBook Airモデルでも発生しているという情報は見当たりません。もしかしてこれも同じ問題でしょうか？

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 14, 2021 at 22:28 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8月 02, 2026 at 7:44 GMT-7

Here see the horizontal lines in the Finder icon.

⟐ Commented 8月 02, 2026 at 7:17 GMT-7

I’m looking for some advice on a 15-inch MacBook Pro 2017 (A1707).

The MacBook suddenly stopped working and now shows absolutely no signs of life. I stripped it down and removed the logic board for inspection. I found what appears to be a burnt component(photos attached).

The marking on the damaged component appears to be:

C21 36 N7 G

Can this component be replaced on its own, or is it more likely that something else has caused it to fail?

Is it worth sending to a repair specialist / can I do it myself or is it dead.

There has been no known liquid damage, and the rest of the board looks visually clean.

I’d really like to save the laptop if it’s economically repairable, and ideally preserve the data that’s stored on the soldered SSD.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Commented 8月 02, 2026 at 7:13 GMT-7

After realizing that MagSafe was not working, I tried my wife's iPhone's USB-C to USB-C and connected it to the MBP power brick. When doing that I saw the battery in red which indicates that the battery is fully drained. This had happened twice and connecting the USB-C from the iPhone helped charging the laptop for 10 minutes and then MagSafe worked perfectly - but this time it didn't work at all.

Tried out DFU "revive" with no luck as I tried connecting both laptops using the same iPhone USB-C cable and no power connected to any of them.

Need to know whether I get a USB-C 3.0 will help for me to start the process of DFU (as it didn't work with the iPhone cable).

Will this resolve my battery issue, should it be better to leave the laptop charging with the MagSafe or USB-C overnight?

⟐ Commented 7月 29, 2026 at 17:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7月 29, 2026 at 6:34 GMT-7

I have a black screen on a macbook pro retina late 2013.

I already tried all the software fix like resetting NVRAM and SMC.

i’m trying to find a way to be sure it’s a harware failure from the screen.

The computer works fine since it’s booting and i can link it to a tv to see the desktop, so it’s not the graphic card either.

The computer got water spilled from the ceiling on the left side of the screen and it got all the way inside through the keyboard. The water quantity was very small, still the mac gave out instantly. Now it’s rebooting fine but without the screen.

I would like to find if the screen is done for good or if the connexion to the logic board is screwed. After opening the mac nothing seems to point that the logic board or the display cables have suffered.

I have a working screen from a mid-2012 macbook pro i could install for testing but i dont know if it’s compatible. On the Ifixit shop the two screens have 50 dollard of price difference, although it has the same spec, also i dont want to mess with my working macbook.

I know i could launch the apple diagnosis but it seems i cant make it display on another screen via HDMI.

Any ideas to rules out possibilities ?

Thanks for reading.

⟐ Answer edited 7月 29, 2026 at 5:34 GMT-7

Not much got everywhere, but some of it appears to have gotten stuck underneath at least 3 keys; mainly the "T" & "Y" keys, as well as the screen-brightness reduction key in the top left of the keyboard. The keys have since become stuck & it's become a bit harder than usual to push them down. I know it's possible to remove the keys on older models for cleaning, but I'm unsure how to go through with it/if there's a different process for the new 13" Air. Any help would be highly appreciated <3

⟐ Answered 7月 29, 2026 at 4:34 GMT-7

So if anyone can help a new diy repair guy out it would be much appreciated!

⟐ Commented 7月 29, 2026 at 2:49 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 28, 2026 at 11:41 GMT-7

I can’t see if the computer powers on with the battery, because it has been dead for a very long time, and the computer won’t charge it.

Does anyone know what could be wrong with the computer?

Edit: The lack of a charging light was caused by a dead charging LED. You can test them out with a multimeter in diode mode, they should faintly light up when you have the polarity correct. If not, replace them, or bypass them with a bodge wire (like I did).

⟐ Edited by author 7月 27, 2026 at 20:31 GMT-7

I got a 2017 13” MacBook Pro online for parts. The fans gradually ramp up and spin at full speed when plugged in. The trackpad connector was ripped off of the board and there is no ssd. Water damage indicators are also red, but no visual marks or stains. I get no image on the display, caps lock key does not light up when I press it. When unplugged, the system immediately shuts down. Any help?

⟐ Commented 7月 27, 2026 at 9:50 GMT-7

Essentially, my Macbook Pro M1 16GB 2020 (A2338) camera has stopped working. Not sure why. If I open Photo Booth, the screen is black but there is no message/warning. The camera light does NOT switch on either.

Tried the following:

• Restarting
• sudo killall VDCAssistant and AppleCameraAssitant but it says No matching processes.
• Reset the laptop (factory reset using iTunes)
• Took off the bottom cover to confirm the 4 ribbon cables were still connected from the screen

If I go to my system information, then go to my camera, it says "No video capture devices were found".

Everything else works perfectly fine so not sure why it would be the camera hardware itself.

⟐ Commented 7月 26, 2026 at 10:38 GMT-7

My display backlight was working perfectly just a day ago, but ever since I connected the display into another MacBook I was testing the backlight completely stopped functioning. I already swapped the small cable that connects the display board with the logic board and have also tried SMC/PRAM reset without luck. Connecting another display to the MacBook shows nothing either (this screen was untested however). Any help?

⟐ Answer accepted 7月 25, 2026 at 12:01 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 24, 2026 at 6:01 GMT-7

Troubleshooting steps - I've basically done everything software wise, so I know it's hardware. Chat GPT seems to believe it's the backlight fuse that may have blown due to liquid entering.

Anyone have a hunch on what's happening? I know liquid is difficult, as I've actually worked at an Apple Store as a technician. This was a used purchase and I'd rather not spend a whole lot fixing it, but I'd like the backlight to work.

I do not have soldering equipment or a microscope, but I'm comfortable disassembling and stuff at home (I've replaced thousands of phone batteries and displays, and I build computers as a hobby). Thanks!

⟐ Commented 7月 24, 2026 at 4:04 GMT-7

I’m looking for a board-level diagnosis for my MacBook Pro Retina 15” Mid 2015 (A1398).

Configuration

• Intel Core i7
• 16 GB RAM
• macOS Monterey 12.7.6

History

Before repair:

• The original internal display was cracked but still displayed an image.
• The Mac worked perfectly with an external HDMI monitor.

During repair:

• A technician installed a display from a MacBook Pro 2013.
• The replacement display never worked.
• He reinstalled my original cracked display.
• Since then, the internal display has been completely black.

Current behavior

If the internal display cable is disconnected:

• Apple logo appears on the external HDMI monitor.
• Startup Manager (Option key) works.
• Internet Recovery works.
• But when booting from Macintosh HD, Recovery, EFI Boot or a bootable USB, the Apple logo appears, then the screen goes completely black.

If the internal display cable is connected:

• The internal display remains completely black.

The Mac appears to continue running:

• keyboard backlight works,
• volume keys work,
• fans operate normally,
• but there is no video output.

Already tried

• NVRAM reset
• SMC reset
• Safe Mode
• Internet Recovery
• Bootable USB installer
• OpenCore Legacy Patcher

Always the same result:
Apple logo → black screen.

Verbose mode also showed messages including:

• device is not readable
• failed to initialize volume keybag

Questions

1. Could installing a 2013 Retina display on a 2015 A1398 have damaged the LCD connector or another logic board component?
2. Which is the most likely cause?
   • LCD connector
   • LCD power/backlight circuit
   • Display cable
   • GPU
   • SSD/APFS
   • Logic board
3. What measurements or board-level tests would you perform before replacing parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

⟐ Commented 7月 23, 2026 at 13:03 GMT-7