I’m looking for some advice on a 15-inch MacBook Pro 2017 (A1707).

The MacBook suddenly stopped working and now shows absolutely no signs of life. I stripped it down and removed the logic board for inspection. I found what appears to be a burnt component(photos attached).

The marking on the damaged component appears to be:

C21 36 N7 G

Can this component be replaced on its own, or is it more likely that something else has caused it to fail?

Is it worth sending to a repair specialist / can I do it myself or is it dead.

There has been no known liquid damage, and the rest of the board looks visually clean.

I’d really like to save the laptop if it’s economically repairable, and ideally preserve the data that’s stored on the soldered SSD.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Commented 8月 02, 2026 at 14:07 GMT-7

I have a black screen on a macbook pro retina late 2013.

I already tried all the software fix like resetting NVRAM and SMC.

i’m trying to find a way to be sure it’s a harware failure from the screen.

The computer works fine since it’s booting and i can link it to a tv to see the desktop, so it’s not the graphic card either.

The computer got water spilled from the ceiling on the left side of the screen and it got all the way inside through the keyboard. The water quantity was very small, still the mac gave out instantly. Now it’s rebooting fine but without the screen.

I would like to find if the screen is done for good or if the connexion to the logic board is screwed. After opening the mac nothing seems to point that the logic board or the display cables have suffered.

I have a working screen from a mid-2012 macbook pro i could install for testing but i dont know if it’s compatible. On the Ifixit shop the two screens have 50 dollard of price difference, although it has the same spec, also i dont want to mess with my working macbook.

I know i could launch the apple diagnosis but it seems i cant make it display on another screen via HDMI.

Any ideas to rules out possibilities ?

Thanks for reading.

⟐ Answer edited 7月 29, 2026 at 5:34 GMT-7

So if anyone can help a new diy repair guy out it would be much appreciated!

⟐ Commented 7月 29, 2026 at 2:49 GMT-7

I’m looking for a board-level diagnosis for my MacBook Pro Retina 15” Mid 2015 (A1398).

Configuration

• Intel Core i7
• 16 GB RAM
• macOS Monterey 12.7.6

History

Before repair:

• The original internal display was cracked but still displayed an image.
• The Mac worked perfectly with an external HDMI monitor.

During repair:

• A technician installed a display from a MacBook Pro 2013.
• The replacement display never worked.
• He reinstalled my original cracked display.
• Since then, the internal display has been completely black.

Current behavior

If the internal display cable is disconnected:

• Apple logo appears on the external HDMI monitor.
• Startup Manager (Option key) works.
• Internet Recovery works.
• But when booting from Macintosh HD, Recovery, EFI Boot or a bootable USB, the Apple logo appears, then the screen goes completely black.

If the internal display cable is connected:

• The internal display remains completely black.

The Mac appears to continue running:

• keyboard backlight works,
• volume keys work,
• fans operate normally,
• but there is no video output.

Already tried

• NVRAM reset
• SMC reset
• Safe Mode
• Internet Recovery
• Bootable USB installer
• OpenCore Legacy Patcher

Always the same result:
Apple logo → black screen.

Verbose mode also showed messages including:

• device is not readable
• failed to initialize volume keybag

Questions

1. Could installing a 2013 Retina display on a 2015 A1398 have damaged the LCD connector or another logic board component?
2. Which is the most likely cause?
   • LCD connector
   • LCD power/backlight circuit
   • Display cable
   • GPU
   • SSD/APFS
   • Logic board
3. What measurements or board-level tests would you perform before replacing parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

⟐ Commented 7月 23, 2026 at 13:03 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7月 21, 2026 at 18:32 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 19, 2026 at 12:47 GMT-7

Hello everyone,

Hope you all had a good week.

Just a quick one, do we think this is safe RE: Attached image. I asked AI but I wanted a fellow tech heads opinion. I'm also in a tight spot right now so cant exactly change it straight away.

Thank you in advance.

⟐ Answered 7月 17, 2026 at 19:56 GMT-7

Original symptoms were short battery life and touchpad physical clicking not working. I bought a replacement battery and touchpad.

Battery was definitely bulging and putting pressure on the touchpad. I swapped out both and when booted back up - no mouse movement or clicking at all from the touchpad. External mouse works fine, so I went into system preferences and then Touchpad. It said "Touchpad not detected" or something along those lines and had a spinning circle indicating that it was searching for bluetooth touchpads.

So I opened it back up and swapped in the original touchpad - mouse movement but no clicking. But still, system preferences says it doesn't detect a touchpad (I was hoping to at least turn on tap to click.)

So, what am I missing? Is there some extra step to set up the touchpad with the OS? Does the lack of movement on the replacement pad mean that it's DOA?

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Answer accepted 7月 11, 2026 at 16:28 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 07, 2026 at 2:40 GMT-7

This is how it looks

⟐ Commented 7月 06, 2026 at 13:05 GMT-7

video of issue

Screen

Display cables

Or logic board issues

⟐ Commented 7月 06, 2026 at 9:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7月 04, 2026 at 17:11 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 04, 2026 at 2:46 GMT-7

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Answered 7月 02, 2026 at 6:25 GMT-7

Mac was inside of suitcase and it was inside of a bag.

Mac boots up,I can hear the chime,but the screen is totally black,not even “light” black. Caps lock light doesn’t work.

I tried SMC,PRAM reset, didn’t work.

Reconnecting screen display by unplugging those two things didn’t work. I used this video

Reconnecting battery didn’t work.

I also tried SMC,PRAM reset while the battery was disconnected and Mac was getting energy from the charger. Didn’t work. I used that video.

What else can I do before changing the screen?I don’t want to swap screen cause it’s expensive.

⟐ Commented 7月 01, 2026 at 22:25 GMT-7

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented 6月 29, 2026 at 5:05 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 28, 2026 at 13:44 GMT-7

I recently picked up a 2009 MacBook Pro 15”. El Capitan is telling me to replace the battery now. Although the battery is at 100 percent and only has 257 cycles on it. Is it really a battery issue for why the MacBook is shutting down after a few seconds (sometimes minutes) without it plugged in? Or is it something else? I also gave a third party application saying that the battery has about 4 minutes left(and going up for some reason), 10.8 years old, the original max is 6500 mAH, the current max is 65035 mAH, and the current charge is 65035 mAH. This app has never done this for me, so I’m not sure what’s wrong.

⟐ Answered 6月 26, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

The issue:

1. With the new battery, the MagSafe light stays green. System Information sees the battery at 33% (2308mAh) but shows 0 Amperage and "Not Charging."

2. If I unplug the MagSafe, the laptop immediately shuts off.

3. I reinstalled the old (bulging) battery to test. It shows 100% (4322mAh) and "Fully Charged," but the laptop still shuts off immediately if the power cord is disconnected.

4. CRITICAL FINDING: The battery indicator button (on the left side) ONLY works when the MagSafe is plugged in. When plugged in, it shows 3 LEDs (consistent with 33%). When unplugged, the indicator button does nothing.

5. I have already:

- Reset the SMC and NVRAM/PRAM multiple times.

- Verified I am using an 85W MagSafe adapter.

- Reseated the battery connector and inspected the logic board pins.

- Ran Disk Utility First Aid.

Is it possible the original bulging battery blew a current-sensing resistor or a MOSFET on the logic board? What specific components should I test with a multimeter to diagnose why the battery rail is not being energized?

Here is an image (maybe) of the coconut app and the system report.

Here is an image of the system report with the bad battery

=== ===

⟐ Answered 6月 19, 2026 at 18:50 GMT-7

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Commented 6月 17, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7