エアダスターでのホコリ除去なども試してみました。

元々このタイプの古いMacBookProはリコール対象だったことを知らず、Appleでキーボードの無償修理があったようですが、ちょうど調子が悪くなったタイミングがその期限の過ぎた後で対応できませんとのこと。

もし詳しい方で何か対処法をご存知の方がおられましたら、ご教示いただけるとありがたいです。

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Commented 5月 24, 2026 at 1:54 GMT-7

I bought this MacBook Pro M1 refurbished in 2024. After one year of use, it suddenly showed those shadows on the bottom of the screen (like on the 1st pic), pretty similar to the Flexgate encountered on the previous generations. As I was still under warranty from the refurbisher (Okamac), I sent them the computer and they replaced the screen. But when I got it back, the screen looked fine but was squeaking when I opened it, was pretty hard to open, and was misaligned from the rest of the body by about 1 or 2 mm when closed.

So I took it to a local repair shop, and after disassembling it, they told me that apparently the screen wasn't screwed back tightly enough. After they remounted it, the squeaking noise was gone and it wasn't that hard to open anymore, but it was still slightly misaligned from the body when closed. It also seemed that there was a very thin, dim shadow at the bottom of the screen, but it was really thin so I just ignored it.

A few months later, the webcam stopped working, and the Touch Bar started to take hours to turn on (the screen of the Touch Bar was black, but it was still working before turning on). Now the Touch Bar is still working, but it sometimes stays extremely dim for several hours.

The screen itself worked properly for 8 months, but a few weeks ago the Flexgate-like shadows came back (like on the first pic). After the first appearance, I just closed the screen and opened it back up, and it went away. I then continued to use the laptop for several weeks (opening and closing it several times every day) before it came back. It did this several times, but every time it went away immediately after I closed and opened the screen back up. One time, it even went away without touching the lid: the screen went into standby as I was taking a picture of it, and when I clicked the touchpad to turn it back on, the shadows on the bottom of the screen were gone.

One week ago, the screen again went into Flexgate mode, this time not with the shadows on the bottom of the screen, but with the very bright spotlights that you see on the 2nd pic. I thought the screen was fried for good, but after closing and opening it again, it was gone. It's now been a week since I haven't closed the laptop at all (I slightly adjusted the screen several times and it didn't do anything). This situation is not very sustainable for me since obviously I intend to use my laptop as a portable device.

So my questions are :

is it Flexgate, like on the previous generations? (I did some research; I know that the cable itself can't be fixed and I just can't pay 600€ to replace a screen that's already been changed 8 months ago. Also, I haven't found any testimonies of someone having Flexgate on two different screens a few months apart on the same computer - particularly since the longer cables of the A2338 model are supposed to be more durable. Also, the fisrt time I got the "flexgate" issue, it wasn't intermittent)

Could this be another issue entirely, linked to the dead webcam and dim Touch Bar, that could be more easily fixed?

I really hesitate to bring the laptop to a repair shop for now because if it's indeed Flexgate, I'm afraid I will break the cable for good if I close the lid again to move the computer.

⟐ Commented 5月 20, 2026 at 11:02 GMT-7

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Commented 5月 16, 2026 at 11:56 GMT-7

I noticed that every time I boot up now the lock icon shows up on the screen.

I did some research and found out it is a EFI / Firmware locked. I’m not sure exactly which one is the proper term or if both mean the same thing. Anyways, I have a spare MacBook Pro, same year, same kind of model and was wondering if i could just pull out the logic board from my spare system and put it into the system which is locked?

Would this eliminate my problem and have the ability to use my device? I really hope I can get an actual answer and not some sad person telling me its stolen and to give it back.

Thats not the purpose of this site now is it?

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 14, 2026 at 0:38 GMT-7

I plug it to this 2013 2013 A1502 and it is charging but there is no light showing.

I tried with other chargers and it is the same, rarely getting a light that stays on.

SMC & PRAM resets, Pins are nice and clean, chargers not getting hot, laptop has a new battery with 2 cycles, Basically the laptop is charging normally but there is just no light on the charger. What goes? Going bad charging board? I guess I need to swap one over and see if that made any difference? It seems to charge for a minute or 2 at no more than 10w before it displays connected but 0w charging.

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 12, 2026 at 5:56 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 5月 08, 2026 at 0:05 GMT-7

I suspect the issue may be the battery ribbon cable, which I’ve already ordered, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this or knows what the problem might be.

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented 5月 05, 2026 at 5:06 GMT-7

I’ve searched everywhere: online stores, marketplaces, spare parts sites… nothing reliable, nothing in stock, nothing that I can actually trust.

This tiny cable is literally the only thing stopping me from fixing my MacBook. Without it, the device is useless. I really don’t want to replace the whole machine over something like this.

Does anyone here know where I can find this part?
Even used or refurbished would be totally fine at this point.

Any help would seriously mean a lot.

⟐ Answer edited 5月 05, 2026 at 1:50 GMT-7

The power key is the only one still responding, so I've been using a USB keyboard and mouse, but that isn't exactly practical to bring to classes.

My assumption is that it's a loose cable, as I was told by the Genius bar that the keyboard and trackpad are controlled by the same cable (they told me my laptop was scrapped and I needed to purchase a whole new one...how about no?).

Does anyone have any ideas or advice? What does the cable for the trackpad/keyboard look like so I can open up the bottom and see if it's loose?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented 4月 29, 2026 at 13:34 GMT-7

However, spot 1 seems to be occupied by a Torx screw. That's also the case for my laptop.

Both my laptop and online guides can't give me any idea about where the Phillips screw should go.

Thanks in advance.

Citation: https://documents.cdn.ifixit.com/MiYk55l...

I am surprised by the fact that the Phillips screw is supposed to sit on top of the Torc screw.

⟐ Commented 4月 28, 2026 at 17:34 GMT-7

I wanted to try my hand at replacing the thermal compound, which was looking very crusty, on my old MacBook Pro. It was my first time, so I was quite prepared for any mistakes I might make. I was doing it for the experience.

As I removed the heatsink, I pulled it sideways rather than up, knocking it against the capacitor below the CPU.

After doing some dugging, I found out that it's the C1060 capacitor. See the boardview below and the relevant extract from the schematics.

The computer works. I ran Cinebench, and the kernel didn't panic or anything. I assume it's a matter of luck.

I am considering whether to buy a heatgun myself or give it to a professional. A heatgun costs around 80€. I have asked a local professional for a quotation.

Does anyone have any insight into this problem, any recommendations? Should I take it to a professional to get it fixed? Is it worth fixing? Is it worth buying the equipment to try and do it myself?

⟐ Commented 4月 28, 2026 at 5:11 GMT-7

1) While typing the key jumps to different places in the document.

2) The battery charges to 100%, in approx 4hrs to 50% then dies to 1% shut down. Apple suggests reset SMC, But the LEFT SHIFT KEY will not reset SMC.

⟐ Answer edited 4月 27, 2026 at 18:29 GMT-7

Thank you

⟐ Commented 4月 27, 2026 at 9:55 GMT-7

I have already:

1. Transferred the battery board data cable and ensured it is seated correctly in the ZIF connectors.

2. Verified that the T5 power connector pancake screw is snug and making a good connection.

3. Performed an SMC reset.

4. Tried leaving it on the charger to wake it from a potential deep sleep state.

Everything is snug and tight, but the new battery still shows no signs of life. Is there anything else I should check, or is it likely a defective part?

⟐ Answered 4月 27, 2026 at 6:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 4月 27, 2026 at 4:10 GMT-7

Can you please call me I’m looking for an adapter that allows me to plug in a 2016/2017 non touch bar SSD drive to either a USB-A or USB-C port to read and test drives externally.

I would need about 10 of them.

Apple Blade SSD 5GA 34+22 Pins NVMe

⟐ Commented 4月 23, 2026 at 14:24 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 4月 22, 2026 at 19:08 GMT-7

I have a problem with a Macbook Pro Mid-2012 (A1278). When I turn it on, the fan immediately starts spinning at maximum speed. When it gets to the login screen, I log in, and after two seconds of loading it shuts down. I've already tried to reset SMC and PRAM, but that didn't help.

My guess would be that it is a thermal sensor not working properly? Does anyone know were the thermal sensor is located? Or any other ideas?

Thanks!

Thanks a lot for your help so far.

I did a quick inspection on the pins and also the logic board, from what I can see and judge, it doesn't look too bad.

Here are some photos:

I will try to also find someone with the same charger. Although the charger seems to be in quite ok condition and I think is replaced at some point. The only thing I can see is that the chord is slightly squeezed at the top, but I don't think enough to not make it work properly.

⟐ Answer accepted 4月 22, 2026 at 13:00 GMT-7

I'm assuming that I did not reconnect one of the cables properly on reassembly, so will be opening it back up, and it would be helpful if I had a sense of which cable to look at when I had it open, as the prior teardown was extensive, delicate, and time-consuming.

I used three different teardown guides as there isn't one specifically for this model (1st Gen M1 13" MBP, late 2020). The main teardown guide I used is this: MacBook Pro 13" Two Thunderbolt Ports 2020 Touchbar Removal

Unfortunately not every cable connection is identified.

Is there a map of the internal [microphone] connections available for this (or similar) Macbook Pros?

⟐ Answered 4月 19, 2026 at 19:19 GMT-7