仕方が無いので、自分でロジックボードの交換をしたいのですが、どこでロジックボードを入手することが出来ますか？

中古でも販売していることを見かけることがありませんので

入手手段を教えて頂けますと幸いです。

Currently I am using imac 5K mid 2017, but since usb - c failed, I brought it to an APPLE authorized service provider, but I was refused repair.

Since there is no choice, I want to replace the logic board by myself, where can I get a logic board?

Because I do not see what I sell in second hand

It would be greatly appreciated if you could tell me how to obtain it.

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

エアダスターでのホコリ除去なども試してみました。

元々このタイプの古いMacBookProはリコール対象だったことを知らず、Appleでキーボードの無償修理があったようですが、ちょうど調子が悪くなったタイミングがその期限の過ぎた後で対応できませんとのこと。

もし詳しい方で何か対処法をご存知の方がおられましたら、ご教示いただけるとありがたいです。

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

調整や修理方法を教えてください

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 10, 2026 at 20:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5月 09, 2026 at 3:03 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 2月 05, 2025 at 22:25 GMT-7

2011年9月にApple StoreでMacBook Airを新品で購入しました。そしてトラックパッドが、2012年9月に反応しなくなったため、Appleで交換しました。この修理以来、問題は発生していません。

今朝は問題なく動作していたのに、今日の夕方、キーボードとトラックパッドが全く反応しなくなりました。キーボードで動作するキーは、電源ボタンだけです。システム設定では、トラックパッドが接続されていることすら認識されなくなりました。

インターネットのフォーラムで、MacBook Proで同じような問題を抱えた人がいて、それはバッテリーの下にあるリボンケーブルが緩んでいたからだという話を読んだことがあります。しかし、この問題がMacBook Airモデルでも発生しているという情報は見当たりません。もしかしてこれも同じ問題でしょうか？

⟐ Answer accepted 9月 14, 2021 at 22:28 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6月 18, 2026 at 6:57 GMT-7

TIA

⟐ Commented 6月 17, 2026 at 16:05 GMT-7

These Macbooks are now around 4-5 years so it's not a bad idea to replace the thermal paste.

They're not obsolute so there will still be users who can benefit from a guide.

Update:

So I was able to open the MacBook and disassemble the motherboard with the video.

Since I'm comfortable around electronics (this isn't my first time opening up a MacBook, laptop, or even a smartphone), I did choose to replace the thermal paste on the cpu and gpu.

And honestly, after four years of service... Kind of disappointed about the original paste. Dan said that paste will last longer now due to improvements, but the original paste was crumbly as hell. Furthermore I noticed small blank spots on the cpu and it's heatsink, so not very good spread. The gpu did have a good spread. They definitely were generous with the paste on the gpu, because its surroundings were covered with paste too.

Cleaning wasn't difficult, as I said the paste was in a very crumbly state.

After cleaning I gave the copper plates of the heatsink and the cpu and gpu some time to evaporate the alcohol.

I used Noctua NT-H2 and used the "X" to spread the paste on both cpu and gpu.

The only annoying experience was to place back the motherboard in the case. I needed multiple attempts because there was always some small connector/ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Ugh! After playing like an octopus for a while, I was able to place the motherboard back and with all connectors/ribbon cables out on top of it.

It's do-able but only for people who have a steady hand and... most of all... lots and lots of patience. Take your time. Take some breaks if you get tired or frustrated because the moment that you attempt to work a bit faster or anything like that... something will go wrong. I 100% guarantee that.

I made only one mistake. The connector cable from the left fan is incredibely fragile due to its L-shape (that's what I think). In trying to get the L-shape cable from underneath the board to the top on the board, I got a small tear in the ribbon cable. This fan no longer works. We learn from our mistakes. Should've taped the connector on top of the fan, I wouldn't had an issue to "fish" for the cable since it can't get trapped underneath the board that way. Already ordered a replacement fan.

The temperatures are amazing though. In idle I went from 60-63° to 46-51°. The one remaining fan is also a lot quieter. I'm not going to claim this huge difference to the new paste though. There was so much built up dust in the MacBook... I was genuinely surprised that the MacBook didn't have much higher temps in idle. Both fans were completly covered up in thick dust, and the outlets on both fans same thing. How it managed to get some kind of airflow through those thick dust is a mystery to me.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result. Yes, I did damage one fan connector, but one can only learn with making mishaps.

⟐ Commented 6月 17, 2026 at 16:04 GMT-7

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Commented 6月 17, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7

I have some display assembly's here that are not labeled for which model they were from ...... is there a small marking on the hinges or something that I can go by to ID which is which? There are no stickers or numbers I can cross check present. I am fearful to just try them on different models and see what works in case their incompatibility will cause some harm..... I cannot find any part numbers anywhere. Late 2013 and Mid 2014 displays (661-8153, 2015 is (661-02360). Under the clutch cover and removing the antenna, still there is nothing that I see that is recognizable in google to suggest a model year.... stumped.

⟐ Edited by author 6月 17, 2026 at 7:22 GMT-7

I am getting video as I can put a flashlight behind the screen and actually see the boot processing, same thing with an external display.

I read a bit on the backlight fuse and the driver chip too but cant seem to find some images on internet for my specific model.

I took a picture of my bord near the video connector to show you guys where I think my fuse is (the one with a little P on it) and how can I check if its the fuse or the driver...

Thanks

Mickael

⟐ Commented 6月 17, 2026 at 5:31 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 15, 2026 at 6:26 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6月 15, 2026 at 4:39 GMT-7

The issue:

1. With the new battery, the MagSafe light stays green. System Information sees the battery at 33% (2308mAh) but shows 0 Amperage and "Not Charging."

2. If I unplug the MagSafe, the laptop immediately shuts off.

3. I reinstalled the old (bulging) battery to test. It shows 100% (4322mAh) and "Fully Charged," but the laptop still shuts off immediately if the power cord is disconnected.

4. CRITICAL FINDING: The battery indicator button (on the left side) ONLY works when the MagSafe is plugged in. When plugged in, it shows 3 LEDs (consistent with 33%). When unplugged, the indicator button does nothing.

5. I have already:

- Reset the SMC and NVRAM/PRAM multiple times.

- Verified I am using an 85W MagSafe adapter.

- Reseated the battery connector and inspected the logic board pins.

- Ran Disk Utility First Aid.

Is it possible the original bulging battery blew a current-sensing resistor or a MOSFET on the logic board? What specific components should I test with a multimeter to diagnose why the battery rail is not being energized?

Here is an image (maybe) of the coconut app and the system report.

Here is an image of the system report with the bad battery

=== ===

⟐ Edited 6月 14, 2026 at 14:21 GMT-7

But what I don't know is if I can only upgrade to a low power chip (S suffix) or if I can upgrade to a full power desktop chip (no suffix). I've seen people upgrade their i5 2400S 27" iMacs to i7 2600, but I've never seen anyone tried a CPU upgrade on a 21.5" imac before let alone the highest end CPU offering from Apple on the 21.5" Mid-2011 iMac is only an i7 2600S.

Now the performance difference between the i7 2600S and i7 2600 is negligible for me, but the problem is I can't souce any i7 2600S but I can fine loads of people selling their i7 2600.

So if anyone can answer, please do as I will apreciate it greatly and if anyone is selling or knows someone who sells an i7 2600S that can ship to Indonesia please answer too. :) Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented 6月 14, 2026 at 2:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6月 13, 2026 at 23:54 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 13, 2026 at 7:18 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 6月 13, 2026 at 5:19 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6月 13, 2026 at 2:40 GMT-7