しばらくは快適でとても気に入っていましたがある時から全く持って外側画面がつかなくなりました。閉じても中がずっとついている状態で通知などが来ても閉じてる状態なのに中の画面が光っていました。

落下や水没などはしておらずまた fold switcherなどを利用して無理やりサブディスプレイを起動させようとすると電源が落ちてしまいます。

adbにて一通りのログを取ってみたのですがどうやらサブディスプレイそのものを物理的に読み込んでいませんでした。また通常なら開け閉めを読み取って角度を出す部分もうまく表示されていません。そこで一度中を開けて差し直してみたりしたのですが症状は変わらずです....

このような場合サブディスプレイをフレックスケーブルごと交換したら治りますか？それとも内部のフレキシブルケーブルの断線によるものでしょうか？一応サブディスプレイ側のバッテリーは読み取っているのでヒンジにあるフレキシブルケーブルの断線等は無いのかなと思っています。

どなたか詳しい方お助けお願いします。

Suggestions?

⟐ Commented 8月 12, 2026 at 18:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8月 12, 2026 at 10:55 GMT-7

I heated the phone, applied the suction cup and pulled until a gap appeared at the top, I inserted my opening pic and moved around the display, taking care to not insert the pic more than 3mm. This went very smoothly, until I attempted to fold the display open to the side, at which point I was surprised to see that I had successfully removed the glass, but the display itself remains firmly seated in the phone itself.

How do I now remove the display, preferably without causing further damage?

⟐ Commented 8月 10, 2026 at 6:43 GMT-7

What else can I do?

Any tips?

⟐ Commented 8月 09, 2026 at 19:49 GMT-7

I have no idea where I could even start looking for broken parts, TBH.

(Sure, there are services that can do this, but I would never pass up an opportunity to learn how to do this kind of thing myself...)

⟐ Answered 8月 07, 2026 at 10:23 GMT-7

• If I put it on a wireless charger the wireless charger blinks enough for me to assume that the battery is attempting to negotiate with it
• If I use a known good 65w charger (UGREEN) and multiple high quality USB-C cables, I can get it to show a gray battery on screen with a lightning bolt in it, but after multiple hours it doesn't seem to produce a charge. The phone is slightly warm near the charging port. If I take it off the port it 'dies' (loses the little battery indicator) instantly
• If I try and put it into fastboot nothing happens, except that the battery indicator will sometimes go away, so maybe it's discharging faster than it's charging?
• If I hook it up to my Linux machine with dmesg running, it doesn't seem to be negotiating anything over USB :(

I like to think I'm generally pretty competent when it comes to working with electronic components. The only thing out of the ordinary with the battery swap was having to use 99% IPA to dissolve the battery adhesive, but I was conservative and it was completely dry before reassembly. I'm skeptical about the battery just being disconnected given the nature of the connector, but I'm open to cracking it back open if it comes to it. The bigger issue is that it leaves me phoneless for quite a while which is rough for 2FA.

Thanks

⟐ Commented 8月 05, 2026 at 15:04 GMT-7

That's the background. Since everything else on the phone appeared to be working, I thought it worthwhile to attempt a screen replacement and ordered the kit. I very slowly, meticulously, and carefully followed the instructions. Unfortunately, upon removing the old screen, I noticed a small amount of what appears to be very minor corrosion on the logic board next to the screen pins (see pics), so I gently cleaned it as best I could with alcohol and a Q-tip, then brushed it gently with a nylon brush, waited for it to dry completely, then installed the new screen. Sadly, even the new screen is still entirely black and even the touch doesn't work, even after re-seating a couple times.

Is there anything I've missed or should try before requesting an RMA? I'd love to get it working, but I can't think of anything else to try and finding a logic board, aside from being far more difficult to replace, is difficult to find and would change the entire device ID anyway. In other words, all my data is lost, and there is no longer a point in trying to recover it at that point. Fortunately, I was able to backup my data in the brief moments when the damaged screen was working prior to the repair.

⟐ Answer accepted 8月 04, 2026 at 20:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 04, 2026 at 15:25 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 04, 2026 at 7:16 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 8月 03, 2026 at 18:13 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8月 02, 2026 at 12:05 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8月 01, 2026 at 10:51 GMT-7

I measured power draw using my KM003C and it draws 75mA for a few seconds, then stays at 500uA. Clearly not charging and not booting either, I'd assume this is just the power draw of the port controller.

I opened it back up to check if the battery had latched, but the VBAT pads on the board measure a healthy 3.6V. Is it still possible this new battery is faulty and communication with the battery prevents the phone from working?

USB connection to a computer does absolutely nothing, no enumeration, same power draw.

I tried disconnecting all sorts of peripherals, same exact behavior with display, cameras, buttons disconnected.

I can't help but conclude that I got a random motherboard failure.

I have decided to cut my losses here and sell the remaining pristine components as donor parts.

⟐ Edited by author 7月 31, 2026 at 13:14 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7月 29, 2026 at 14:54 GMT-7

I also do not have service and my phone isn't showing any notifications, it only vibrates.

My system is up to date with android version 17.

⟐ Commented 7月 28, 2026 at 17:27 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7月 28, 2026 at 8:32 GMT-7

The Pixel 7 Pro Display seems to have the exact same dimensions as the Pixel 6 Pro display and the specs only seem to differ for the maximum brightness.

The question is therefore if it is possible to just use the newer and slightly better version of what seems to be mostly the same display as a replacement for the broken one or if i am mistaken about the dimensions, a different connector is used or the difference in power usage makes the swap impossible.

The fingerprint sensor should also be taken into account. Again it seems to be the same one but i could be mistaken about that as well.

⟐ Commented 7月 26, 2026 at 16:13 GMT-7