⟐ Answer accepted 4月 25, 2026 at 16:14 GMT-7

1. Hard resetting the monitor (holding power button for 30 seconds while unplugged).

2. Plugging the HDMI cable directly into the laptop instead of using a hub.

3. The flashlight test (no faint image visible).

4. Checking Windows display settings (the laptop doesn't detect the monitor).

Is there a specific internal component like a capacitor or a fuse on the main board that commonly fails in this way on Sceptre monitors?

⟐ Edited 4月 22, 2026 at 19:10 GMT-7

To describe the roaming divide the 32 inch monitor into 4 equal Vertical sectors.

(|1 |2 |3 |4 |) The issue began on section 4, move to 3, and currently in section 2.

(I do have images of when it was in section 3 and now section 4).

I did contact Gigabyte Technical Support who informed me to update the Firmware via OSB sidekick from F09 to F011. This did not resolve the issue.

There is one video that claims the ribbon cables are at fault, which to mean does not make sense as the issue is resolved with a power cycle or removing the display cable from both the PC and Display.

Happy to provide any additional information! IDK if I can repair this monitor as it appears Gigabyte is not keen to provide parts or schematics.

⟐ Answer accepted 4月 22, 2026 at 10:13 GMT-7

Can I get it repaired? The screen model is LG 55LA6210.

⟐ Answer accepted 4月 16, 2026 at 17:11 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 16, 2026 at 1:09 GMT-7

I have taken it apart and checked for loose connections. Nothing found.

Any ideas?

⟐ Answered 4月 15, 2026 at 4:17 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 11, 2026 at 12:07 GMT-7

Can't find the SM for this thing, or a tutorial.

⟐ Commented 4月 10, 2026 at 6:16 GMT-7

It's inconvenient to unplug and plug every time. Is there anything i can do?

The noise is very loud close up and definitely noticeable from anywhere in my room(it's a big room).

⟐ Answer edited 4月 08, 2026 at 17:13 GMT-7

I lowered it from 100 to 65% and it indeed helped, but after a couple of months the issue returned... I continued to lower the brightness, but it helped only for a couple of hours at most, then I needed to lower it further... Turning the monitor off and waiting for it to cool down also helped for a short time, after which it continued to black out every 10-30 sec... I decided to take the monitor apart and look at the power board, and indeed saw 3 bulged capacitors.

I bought new replacement caps and went to a professional (soldering is not among my skills), and he replaced all the caps on the power board except the biggest one for high voltage, since it seemed fine and rarely goes bad according to my research. But he mesured it's capacitance and saw it was 120 uF instead of 150, but I decided to see if replacing every other caps fixed the issue (I also didn't have the replacement for the big cap)...

Unfortunately it did not, the monitor continued to black out periodically, I continued to lower the brightness for several hours untill I hit the bottom and at the end the monitor started to fade frantically and after a short time blacked out for good...

I replaced the last capacitor on the power board (150 uF 450 V), but it didn't help, my monitor now is permanently black and doesn't turn on at all (the indicator light turnes white and then red after a minute). And I can see the image on the screen with a flashlight, so it is a backlight issue.

I measured the output voltages from the PSU board to the backlight on CN801 connector (see my 2nd picture below). It's 29.3 V on contacts 3 and 4 (red wires), the rest are 0.

• I get the same voltages readings with the power cable plugged in, regardless of whether the backlight is connected to the PSU or not, and whether I turn the monitor on or off with the button (it just drops from 29.3 to 29.2 V when I turn it off).

Someone who took apart the same monitor mentioned on another forum that each wire goes to a pair of LED strips with 10 LEDs on each strip, and the voltage he measured was about 60 V. Those findings correspond to the reference data I received from BenQ tech support. Apparently the voltages I get are half of the nominal...

Does this mean that my power board is faulty? If it is, how can I pinpoint the faulty component on the board? Or the problem is rather the backlight LED strips failure as many people clame? This is a great monitor I payed a lot of money for and I'd really like to fix it instead of throwing it away...

Thanks.

Connections:

From the buttons in the frame to the mother board:

From the mother board to the PSU board:

(also, see CN701 on the PSU board on the 3rd and 4th pics from the top)

From the PSU board to the display:

T-con board:

Reference data:

⟐ Commented 4月 03, 2026 at 9:26 GMT-7

⟐ Edited 4月 02, 2026 at 4:39 GMT-7

This problem

⟐ Answered 3月 27, 2026 at 6:48 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 3月 25, 2026 at 12:13 GMT-7

When I plug it in, there are no sounds, no lights, and the display remains off.

I already tried replacing the power supply that it came with, to no avail. I am guessing it’s something to do with the main board? I went ahead and opened it up, here is a picture:

Anyone have any ideas?

⟐ Commented 3月 24, 2026 at 8:18 GMT-7