⟐ Answered 3月 10, 2026 at 17:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 11月 17, 2025 at 22:50 GMT-7

本体の分解方法を教えてください

⟐ Answered 11月 17, 2025 at 22:46 GMT-7

動作は正常だと思います。
operation is normal.

リモコンで操作できます。

Can be operated by remote control.

⟐ Answered 4月 06, 2026 at 5:06 GMT-7

Everytime I scroll down on a page it suddenly starts scrolling up for a split second on its own and then back to normal and it happens very often

⟐ Answered 4月 05, 2026 at 10:53 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 05, 2026 at 10:52 GMT-7

-Drive: Kingmax PQ3480 512GB (72% health left and 0 Media Integrity Errors)

So I was recently playing a decently light game that requires not so much writes for the ssd then out of nowhere a YSOD(Yellow Screen of Death) flashed my screen for a sec then my laptop rebooted.
After that,it showed "No boot device found" as I remembered, it also disappeared in the UEFI/BIOS .I have to re-seat / do a cold boot in order for it to show up again tho I cant log in Window at that moment (I can sometime access the lock screen until a few secs later , a BSOD with the error code WHEA... happened . Same goes with Safe mode).
However,I can still access the drive through a rescue usb(WinPE boot environment) and do light tasks on it.But the moment I start doing some loads on it like testing its speed using Victoria , it disappeared in the eyes of WinPE.It finds it again after a restart.
I thought it might be something with the heat so I directly blowed my fan into it and it was able to boot into Safe mode and even Window,I even successfully ran a chkdsk and it found no problems.(Note that the ssd ran perfectly fine even under loads before the incident)
Sadly my laptop didnt have a built-in heatsink for the ssd and Im running on a budget rn so I cant buy a new ssd.I have backed up my files to be prepared for the worst.

(the ssd still cant log into Window without a direct fan blowing at its face,I also noticed that the ssd is quite hot after some (2) failed boots and WinRE. The power chip might be leaking? idk)

Im a student and I really need this ssd.Hope someone out there could help me with this:P

⟐ Answered 4月 05, 2026 at 5:46 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 05, 2026 at 3:27 GMT-7

Because

Mother board and CPU short circuit

How to fix it ??

⟐ Commented 4月 05, 2026 at 3:25 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 05, 2026 at 3:23 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 03, 2026 at 21:31 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4月 03, 2026 at 19:08 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 4月 03, 2026 at 13:36 GMT-7

I lowered it from 100 to 65% and it indeed helped, but after a couple of months the issue returned... I continued to lower the brightness, but it helped only for a couple of hours at most, then I needed to lower it further... Turning the monitor off and waiting for it to cool down also helped for a short time, after which it continued to black out every 10-30 sec... I decided to take the monitor apart and look at the power board, and indeed saw 3 bulged capacitors.

I bought new replacement caps and went to a professional (soldering is not among my skills), and he replaced all the caps on the power board except the biggest one for high voltage, since it seemed fine and rarely goes bad according to my research. But he mesured it's capacitance and saw it was 120 uF instead of 150, but I decided to see if replacing every other caps fixed the issue (I also didn't have the replacement for the big cap)...

Unfortunately it did not, the monitor continued to black out periodically, I continued to lower the brightness for several hours untill I hit the bottom and at the end the monitor started to fade frantically and after a short time blacked out for good...

I replaced the last capacitor on the power board (150 uF 450 V), but it didn't help, my monitor now is permanently black and doesn't turn on at all (the indicator light turnes white and then red after a minute). And I can see the image on the screen with a flashlight, so it is a backlight issue.

I measured the output voltages from the PSU board to the backlight on CN801 connector (see my 2nd picture below). It's 29.3 V on contacts 3 and 4 (red wires), the rest are 0.

• I get the same voltages readings with the power cable plugged in, regardless of whether the backlight is connected to the PSU or not, and whether I turn the monitor on or off with the button (it just drops from 29.3 to 29.2 V when I turn it off).

Someone who took apart the same monitor mentioned on another forum that each wire goes to a pair of LED strips with 10 LEDs on each strip, and the voltage he measured was about 60 V. Those findings correspond to the reference data I received from BenQ tech support. Apparently the voltages I get are half of the nominal...

Does this mean that my power board is faulty? If it is, how can I pinpoint the faulty component on the board? Or the problem is rather the backlight LED strips failure as many people clame? This is a great monitor I payed a lot of money for and I'd really like to fix it instead of throwing it away...

Thanks.

Connections:

From the buttons in the frame to the mother board:

From the mother board to the PSU board:

(also, see CN701 on the PSU board on the 3rd and 4th pics from the top)

From the PSU board to the display:

T-con board:

Reference data:

⟐ Commented 4月 03, 2026 at 9:26 GMT-7